22.5 deg miter on a table saw

[ellie_b]

Hello,

I'm looking for advise on cutting 22.5 degree miters.
I am cutting red oak trim pieces for a bar (http://www.precision-images.com)[http://www.precision-images.com/320f4e00.jpg]
using my lowish-end craftsman table saw. (The saw has been adequate for the project so far although I have been most unsatisfied with the miter gauge.)

I have been testing on scraps and have learned the (!) value of using a stop to help with creep but it seems pretty tough to get it just right.

Is this a more advanced skill? Will I get better with practice? or...

I am leaning toward buying a miter saw--would it make enough of a difference to justify the cost of the saw and stand? I also have some 22.5 deg beveling coming up too.

Thanks for any insights.

Ellie

on and on...

[brent]

Cool bar. I am going to be making one in the future and will keep that design in mind.
Personally I would really consider getting the miter saw. Do you know anyone that can loan you one for a few days? I had been getting by with a low endish craftsman table saw with a cheap miter guage when my father in law loaned me his chopsaw. Once I used it I knew I had to have one.
I especially wonder about that long peice. I am thinking that will be especially tough to keep right as you pass in on the tiny little miter guage.
If not the miter saw .... you might make an extension for the backstop on the miter guage. They are pretty small and if you give them a little more area sometimes they work a little better.
Best of luck to you and send us some photos ok :-)

Brent

[awilson]

you really dont NEED a stand for a miter saw if thats what your saying. for trim you can just put it on the ground and your good. but i would suggest geting a miter saw if you can afford it. theyre much more capable at cutting trim then a TS. and if youre going to get one you may as well get a fairly good one. 10" is a fairly adaquate size. delta or DeWalt i prefer delta (but im baised so whatever)

Anything can be built if you have good plans, the right tools, the right know how, and more importently the money to do it.

[ellie_b]

Thanks for the reply, Brent. You are right about the long pieces--had a hard enough time keeping them square on striaght cross cuts. I will try adding an extension to the miter gauge. I tried once, unsuccessfully, using a clamp but I should try screwing the extension in next time. However, ultimately I think I will get the miter saw. I can't imagine this will be my last project :-).

I would definitely recommend these plans--they have lots of bar configurations to choose from. They are the more expensive set of plans available on the web (I think $22 for this bar) but I compared these with the cheaper plans and these are much more detailed. Plus it is a nicer bar (though perhaps a bit of a stretch for my woodworking skills and tools). Using all red oak, it will probably cost about $400-500--not counting new tools of course! Or the kegerator!

Take care,

Ellie

[ellie_b]

Thanks awilson. You *can* put them on the ground?? I did not know this. I thought that would be strictly out of the question. Do you have to screw/bolt it down?

10" it is then. There is a Dewalt in my price range.

Thanks,

Ellie

[jimpen]

As to the kegarator --- depending on how you want to do it, you may be able to get off a lot cheaper doing some of your own work with a second-hand fridge and a conversion kit. I paid ~$180 for a tapper system including the CO2 bottle off my local distributor a few years ago. And these guys on the net have them a lot cheaper than buying the whole pre-done fridge. If you need details or want to ask questions, drop me a line.

http://kegman.net/
http://www.beveragefactory.com/draft...ion-kits.shtml
http://www.heartshomedraft.com/draft...sion_kits.html

[brent]

You can put them anywhere really. One of the nice things about them. For now you can put it on a workbench or whatever and make a stand for it when you have time. It can be as simple or fancy as you wanna go. Extensions on the side are always a nice thing to have if you have got the space.
a kegerator? Jeez. That would be nice. Then again.. i would not get anything done.

[Limey]

In the absence of a digital readout level about $120 but soooo useful

As to determining a 22.5 angle.
Make a "large" template from the side of a corrugated case.
Bisect 90 then bisect 45 When swinging the the two arcs to connect to the "point" do it a couple three times and this way you when you join up you will be good and find they all line up or not in which case you average.
Cut very carefully with straight edge and sharp craft knife.
The corrugated cardboard will be thick enough to lock the mitre gauge in place.
Still do a check by positioning 4 together and check for 90 degrees


If you are experiencing creep it may help to attach a small strip of PS backed abrasive sheet to the face of the mitre gauge.

Hope this helps

Limey

[TDHofstetter]

That really looks like an excellent excuse to build a precision miter sled preset to 22.5 degrees.

-- Tim --

May your mind's eye
never
blink.

[Jerry M]

I'm with Tim here. I've owned about 4 mitersaws (still have 2) ---I am a carpenter by trade--- they are nice tools for cutting trim for a house, but for furniture and cabinets, a table saw can cut more accurately.

Put the miter gauge on the shelf and make a crosscut sled (either fixed at 22.5 or adjustable for different angles.


---Jerry

You need to learn from other people's mistakes. You'll never have enough time to make them all yourself.