Hard Coating

**AdamFausch** · 11-19-2010, 07:57 AM

Hi I am making some letter openers for Christmas presents and am looking for a coat hard clear coat to use.

On my Prototype I uses a Minwax Spray on polyerythane but it seems to show scuffing after opening letters.

What would be anyone's recommendation for a good hard coating on this type of application?

Thanks!

**robhannon** · 11-19-2010, 10:32 AM

CA glue may give you a durable clear finish. A lot of people use it as a coating for turned pens.

**arcticfox46** · 11-19-2010, 11:31 AM

CA on a pen is easy to do - but I have never tried it on anything that remotely resembles flat. I don't know how that would work out. On a pen it is appyed in anout 5-10 seconds. I am not sure it would be enough time on the flat surfaces.

I wonder though - about a clear epoxy coating something like a bar top coating. I think there are some thin liquidy epoxy coatings out there. Maybe a cleay spray epoxy coating from rustoleum?? I don't know if it exists, but it migh be worth a look at the paint section at the borg.

**FrankC** · 11-20-2010, 08:51 AM

Have you considered Watco or tung oil rather than varnish, just let the new owner know it can be polished with furniture oil from time to time as needed.

**docholladay0820** · 11-23-2010, 07:31 AM

When I think of hard, durable finish applications, my default is always oil based polyurethane. I used to refinish golf club heads (back when woods were actually made of wood) and we would use oil based polyurethane on those. The method of application was different though. We actually dipped the club head in the poly for several coats with a light scuff sand between coats and a couple of days cure time between coats.

**Drath** · 12-22-2010, 11:42 AM

I’m probably too late but I thought I’d go ahead and chime in. I use Devcon 2-Ton epoxy as a very hard, clear topcoat on fishing lures. Mix it up, brush it on, and keep it rotating so it cures evenly. I’ve rigged up an old BBQ rotisserie motor to uses as a turner. I can post some pic of finished baits if you’d like to see the final results. It goes on kinda thick so it might not be what you’re looking for and it does yellow slightly over time.

-D

**Tony B** · 01-01-2011, 09:47 AM

I know its after the fact, but I am curious as to what wood you used. Traditionally, wood letter openers were made from very hard woods and no finish was used. The wood was just polished to a low sheen by sanding up to a fairly high grit.
The blade was maintained by the wood itself being hard. Putting a hard finish over a soft wood does little to nothing for the overall hardness.
Also. most polyurethanes require about a month to cure to full hardness and of all the finishes, in my opinion, minwax is pure crap. It is a cheap product sold mostly in discount houses.

**bmorto1504** · 01-01-2011, 10:58 AM

Tony, what is a good brand? Can you find really good poly at the box stores?
bmorto

**Tony B** · 01-01-2011, 11:57 AM

bmorto, I havent used poly in years. If I had to use some, I would go to Rockler, Woodcraft or even Sherwin Williams brand. When it comes to chemicals, you definitely get what you pay for. General rule of thumb for me is...if it comes from HD or Walmart it probably is junk.
BTW, I am a lacquer kinda guy. My wife says I'm in it for the fumes.