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Thread: Face Gluing Wood
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08-11-2012, 12:15 PM #11Member
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- Aug 2012
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Gorilla Glue Works
I've used Gorilla glue in the past. It works great, but finishing the surface can be a problem. For squeeze out, don't play with it and try to wipe it off. Let it dry, scrape, and sand. If you rub it around, you're effectively polyurethaneing the wood in the area and stain will not take.
I'm trying Titebond II on KD Pine 2x4. After an hour of sitting and removing the clamps, I have one board seperate. I've re-clamped and hoping the joint isn't trash.
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08-11-2012, 03:43 PM #12Member
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- Dec 1969
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Titebond II should work fine, just don't clamp it too tight squeezing out all the glue and starving the joint.
Personally not a fan of Gorilla glue for any kind of fine work.
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08-11-2012, 10:49 PM #13Member
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I do this regularly. Titebond I II or III will all work fine. Get a good even spread, on both pieces preferably. If you only put glue one one surface, then rub the two together face-to-face to get good "glue transfer" between the parts.
Don't worry about "starving the joint." This is a myth. You will not starve the joint with pressure you apply with a clamp you tighten by hand. It has been tested.
Flat, clean surfaces, good glue spread, even pressure, any decent wood glue, and you're good to go.
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08-11-2012, 11:52 PM #14Member
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Agree about the myth using hardwood, may be debatable with softwoods like pine.


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