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  1. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Dallas
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    12
    As it turns out, when blade is in 90 degree position, I measure a deflection in blade of about 4/1000" when i turn blade through 180 degrees and move dial indicator to opposite side - pretty OK with me. HOWEVER, when I tilt blade to a position just before the motor housing makes contact with the bench top it sits under and perform same measurement, deflection increases to about 40/1000". Arggghhh...not sure what to do about this, other than adjust trunnion for 45 degree cut, then readjust back when i return blade to 90 degree position

  2. #12
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    East Central Texas
    Posts
    66
    For any cut you need to have an insert, if nothing else just for safety.
    I too agree that your blade isn't parallel with the fence, also that having the tilt toward the fence is not just annoying it's dangerous. a .001" difference in clearance is enough to cause the stalling of the blade, hence the stalling of the motor which will lead to the professed power output of the motor.

    Easy fix, put you fence on the other side of the tilt. See if it makes a difference. If not, use the most useful tool in the shop to help fix it.

    Good luck.

    DF

  3. #13
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Dallas
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    12
    I understand I have a problem or two. Regarding placement of fence, I bought the saw second-hand; it is built into the left end a 7 ft long workbench, and fence rail is located so that I am not really able to move fence to other side (pic attached).

    2355915153_cf4cc3a2df_z.jpg

    Circuit breaker I was referring to was the one in the breaker box, not one on the motor.

    I hear you on need for an insert - will take care of it if I can manage to find solution for why my blade alignment shifts with the angle of the blade. As I mentioned, this is first time I am making/wanting to make an angled cut like this. Frankly, easiest solution for me is to just not bother with French cleat in the first place and hang the cabinet using different method.

  4. #14
    Member deepwood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Indianapolis
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    11
    Hi! Long time reader, first time poster...
    The only advice I can give here is that I don't think you need to use such a deep bevel on a hang cleat. I work in a cabinet shop that does hang-cleats as a standard. We only put on a 10 to 15 degree bevel. Reducing the bevel could help with the binding issue... although it seems there may be more going on than just that.
    Last edited by deepwood; 03-05-2012 at 06:48 AM.

  5. #15
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    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Dallas
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    12
    Deepwood - thanks for the note/advice. I was working from a set of directions downloaded from interweb which said to cut @ 45 degrees, but it is good to any any reasonable angle at or greater than 10 will work as well.

    And thanks to others with comments, critiques, and advice on this for me...it was all much appreciated!

  6. #16

  7. #17
    Member cabinetman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    So. Florida
    Posts
    3,355
    Quote Originally Posted by AA040371 View Post
    I understand I have a problem or two. Regarding placement of fence, I bought the saw second-hand; it is built into the left end a 7 ft long workbench, and fence rail is located so that I am not really able to move fence to other side (pic attached).

    2355915153_cf4cc3a2df_z.jpg

    Circuit breaker I was referring to was the one in the breaker box, not one on the motor.

    I hear you on need for an insert - will take care of it if I can manage to find solution for why my blade alignment shifts with the angle of the blade. As I mentioned, this is first time I am making/wanting to make an angled cut like this. Frankly, easiest solution for me is to just not bother with French cleat in the first place and hang the cabinet using different method.
    If your blade measures good at 90 degrees, and cuts well at 90 degrees, measuring it for parallel at 45 degrees leaves the ability to not get good points of reference. While it sits at a bevel, it's very easy to not get the same point of reference at the front and rear of the blade. This can produce a mis-measurement. But, done at 90 degrees, it is easy to measure to the edge of the same tooth. So, My recommendation is to not make any adjustments to the table, if the saw cuts well at 90 degrees.

    The problem is likely a dull blade, or a blade that has too many teeth. I would use at a maximum a 32 tooth, or a 24 tooth carbide tipped blade. As for the fence, clamp a temp fence on the left side of the blade. It can be any substrate, as long as it's straight.



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