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  1. #1

    Best wood glue for Mortise/Tenon glue up - Exterior Mahogany door

    Hi All,
    First time poster.
    I am looking for suggestions for the BEST glues for gluing up rails to stiles on an exterior mahogany door project. I am building with mortise and tenon joints. I need to have a long (about an 1/2 hour) for open time so that I am not rushed during assembling time. The longer open time is needed so I am not pressed for time. I tend to get a little spastic and crazy and I start yelling at the helper(wife) to hurry.
    I am not sure if I need gap filling or not because I am host sure what constitutes a gap. I have read that the mortise needs to be about .001 bigger than the tenon. My tenons slide into the mortise with light pushing until about 3/4 of the way down and then taps from a deadblow is needed to seat it. I know that there are some gaps within the interior of the mortise of about 1/32 to 1/16 in a few places like the ends radiuses where the radius is not the same due to sanding/rasping the tenons and the sides where the router bit got out of control. My tenons are fitting pretty well but what is considered a gap where gap filling is needed? .001 is a gap.
    The door will be facing west and is in south florida. It is covered but it will get wet at times. The finish will have UV protection and be marine grade.
    I do not think TiteBondIII will work for me because I will not have the open time. I hear good things about Dap WoodWeld Plastic Resin but their website indicates it is for interior work. I am not sure Epoxy is the way to go because I hear is will flex. This will be a heavy door and I need the strongest joint possible.

    Any REAL WORLD advice would be appreciated.

    Thanks John

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Napa Valley, California, USA.
    .001 is not a gap. Slight differences in radius at the end of the mortise and tenon don't really matter either. A "perfect" glue line is about .002. PVA (like Titebond) will handle gaps up to .020 or so, but the joint will be weaker as the gap gets bigger.

    I think Titebond III should work fine for you. It will give you 15 min. or so, which should be plenty for one door. Do a dry run and time the process. Have all the clamps at the ready.

    Epoxy will give you more time (and more strength in a loose joint)---don't worry about the "flexibility"---it is as stiff or stiffer than PVA---but can be messy and harder to clean up.


  3. #3
    Hi John, I think Titebond III would be fine for you. In my opinion it is the best glue on the market. Doing a dry run and prepping is a great idea.
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  4. #4
    Hi John, when I made my exterior oak door I used for my mortise and tenon very slow epoxy and I tell you that stuff is just the best. I work with wood for over 30 years and made plenty of exterior door and I always was in trouble to to get everything nice clamped and square and the panels in the right place. but with epoxy you got all the time in the world .

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