I have a 2HP Ryobi Plunge router, and I mounted it in a router table outfited with four feather boards to get maximum stability, and I was shaping some 8' oak boards to make a really large picture frame. Had them all done except I needed to make a 3/4" wide, 3/16" deep groove down the back of the boards. Messed around with some scrap until I had what I wanted, then ran the first board through. It was struggling a bit at times as I passed it though. Didn't seem like I was pushing it too fast, but it was intermittently getting a little bit bound and would rattle a lot and it totally stopped a couple of times, not more than a second or two until I backed it up just enough to get it spinning again and it would progress along OK. Then when I got to the end of the first board, the feather board slipped (apparently I didn't tighten it enough, dummy newby that I am) and the board went a little sideways and the router got totally bound and I had to run from the end of the board around to turn it off.
Then after I got things sorted, it would not turn back on. I can't find any sort of reset button. I left it set overnight to just cool off and hopefully be better today. No luck. It did spin feebly around three or four times, then just stopped.
Did I burn it up? Seems like it happened really fast. What do I do now to get running again? Hopefully not a new router? What else did I do wrong?
It sounds like you tried to take too much of a cut all at once, no electrical tool likes to be overworked. Next time take cuts small enough that the motor is not slowing down as the work passes through, do each piece, then move your guide and take another cut, continue working in this manner until you reach the final required size.
I have found that electrical tools only work as long as the smoke is contained within them, once it is let out they no longer work
Thanks, Frank. But does a 3/4 by 3/16th cut seem like too big of a bite, for a 2 HP router? (it was in oak, I'll admit). Or was my router about to die anyway? I inherited it from my father and I have no idea about its history. Also, it was only seized up for a couple seconds total, and the router really was not hot to the touch, nor did I smell or see any smoke or burning.
Is it possible or advisable to get a router repaired?
The amount of material that you can remove in one pass depends on several factors, power of router, hardness of material, size, quality and sharpness of bit. If you were overworking the router to bite was to big. Different sized bits also are ideally run at specific speeds based on diameter of bit, there is a speed chart here: http://sawdustmaking.com/Routers/routers.htm
It is possible to get routers repaired, however it may not be worth it if the tool is an older model, you might be better off getting a new model with features such as soft start and variable speed control.
It might be worth a try to remove the router from the table and blow it out good, and also check the switch and the cord, plug it in, turn it on, if it doesn't turn on wiggle the cord around. I just recently had a disc sander quit on me, I narrowed it down to a break in one of the wires inside the cord. I cut past the break, installed a new plug and it's back up and running.
I've pulled it out of the table and it doesn't seem to be plugged w sawdust or anything, and everything I can see looks to be in excellent condition. It looks pretty new, actually, one of only a couple of my father's tools that look like they were purchased less than a half a century ago. By soft start, I assume you mean it doesn't jump right to speed when you turn it on. It's always started slow (since I've done anything with it, anyway) and you have to wait about 30 seconds or even longer for it to come up to speed.