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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    St Paul, MN, USA.

    Question Correcting gaps in miters

    Howdy y'all
    It's been a long time since i have been in this forum. Had some pretty serious life challenges the last few years, but am getting into the shop and I have a remodel of my kitchen going on.

    This is a pretty basic question - and it's undoubtedly covered in here somewhere already - but I can't find it, so here goes:

    I'm looking for a rule-of-thumb to use in taking the gaps out of miters.

    I am gearing up to do a crown mold run my kitchen. So, I was practicing some miters with scrap and I was noticing that I tend to get gaps in the inside corner of the miter, or the outside corner (Shown in the attachment).

    So, what I am hoping to get is a simple guideline, like "When the gap is on the inside corner of the joint, take 1 degree off the angle" or "Add a degree onto the angle".

    I realize of course that there isn't a specific answer to this question, I am just hoping there exists a fundamental, rule-of-thumb that I can apply so it is not just pure guesswork when I am off.

    Geez, I hope that makes sense. Sorry if it doesnt.

    Thank you
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
    Port Coquitlam, British Columbia, Canada.
    Many trim carpenters cut the miters a degree or two off perpendicular so that only the top edges of the miters actually meet. A common practice is to put a flat carpenters pencil on the miter saw table before laying the board down.
    Frank C

    Sawdust Making 101

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Murfreesboro, TN, USA.
    Your photo shows a flat miter. Mitering two pieces of actual crown molding is an ENTIRELY different animal. I had an old boss who would say that "Crown molding is the leading cause of suicide among trim carpenters."

    Are you asking about true crown molding or flat miters as shown? The answers will be different.


  4. #4
    If you have a gap in the back of the miter that means your angle on the saw is a little to much. Example, if you cut a 45 and the gap is in the back( or top) try a 44 degree. I tend go with half degrees myself, I would put the saw at 44.5. If your gap is toward the front ( or bottom) that tells you your angle isn't steep enough, again using a 45 degree for an example, try adjusting your saw a 45.5 or 46.

    Franks comment is good, I was hoping to explain it so you could have a better understanding. Hopefully that helps
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Louisville, KY, USA.
    To have a gap on front and back, like the picture shows,
    you either have movement in the procedure of the blade cutting
    the wood, like a sloppy miter gage or saw brgs, or a saw blade that is flexing.
    I've run into that with a cheaper/duller blade.
    I get a more perfect miter if I kiss the cut miter against a
    sanding disk set to the proper angle before fit up.
    Last edited by JCCLARK; 07-12-2013 at 02:23 PM.

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