Question for a friend

**ictoos** · 09-12-2007, 08:26 AM

No really!

A buddy at work is getting into woodworking and has set up a nice little shop for himself.

He's looking at a 8" Griz jointer and is trying to decide helical vs straight blade.

Whats the group opinion?

Kerry

**rhull** · 09-12-2007, 08:33 AM

I have the G1182ZHW 6" x 47" Jointer w/ Handwheels. If I was going to do it again, I'd probably save up for the G0593 8" Jointer w/ Spiral Cutterhead, in part because I think the cutter inserts probably make blade changes much simpler. The reports of better cuts with figured wood wouldn't hurt either.

**stretch2187** · 09-12-2007, 08:41 AM

We've got the 8" jointer with straight blades at work. It performs very well and I can't imagine the need for going with the spiral cutterhead. If it gives me a bad cut it's because of my technique, not the jointer.

**Cody Colston** · 09-12-2007, 09:52 AM

I've got the same jointer that Stretch uses at work and can verify what he said...with the right technique, it leaves a great surface. I don't really see the need for helical cutters on a jointer unless they are also used on the planer, since the two work so much in conjunction. It doesn't make sense to have them on one and not the other.

Now, if I worked with a lot of highly figured wood, I would likely be looking at drum sanders really hard.

Cody
Tyler, TX

He is no fool who gives up what he cannot keep for that which he cannot lose.

**beamerweb** · 09-12-2007, 11:40 AM

I'm with Mark and Cody. The added expense isn't justified by my use. Especially for a beginner, highly figured wood is probably a ways down the line and even then it may not be a regular activity. And if you do one, you should do 'em both, like Cody said.

Another kicker for me was that a year or so ago someone did a review/test of the various cutterheads and there were some interesting results. If you do decide to get one, be sure it does the shearing action - not just carbide inserts that still hit the board straight on. I think the single-blade-with-a-twist style ones leave the absolute finest edge. Then again, carbide inserts are likely to stay sharp for FAR longer.

I have heard lots of horror stories about carbide inserts arriving shattered, though. That stuff's brittle as heck and I suspect some of the shattering has to do with overtightening the mounting screws in at least a couple cases. This could also be worsened if the "bed" that the carbide insert rests on isn't flat enough to keep from flexing the insert while tightening, too.

My G0586 is a very nice machine. I wouldn't change a thing. But, it's nice to know that if I should ever decide that I actually DO need a spiral/helical cutterhead, one's available and it isn't terribly painful to install. So far, though, the cost just isn't justified by what I'm using the machine for.

**TDHofstetter** · 09-12-2007, 01:16 PM

I wouldn't have the spiral cutterhead in my shop. I can sharpen straight knives myself, and I'd MUCH rather do that then repeatedly buy a fat pocketful of carbide cutters every time they get a little dull. One screw per half-inch per spiral "blade" seems like a heckuva lotta' screws, too. One loose - WHLING goes a carbide cutter, across your shop & into your kid's face.

-- Tim --

I'm a
HOARSE
WHISPERER.

**Jeffk** · 09-12-2007, 08:46 PM

Kerry: I agree with what Jason and those above say about going with the straight blade jointer, especially for someone starting out in the hobby. While I've never worked with a spiral cutter head jointer I believe that it's not really necessary until you start working with heavily figured wood. Even with that, I'd probably go with a helical head planer before buying a helical head jointer.

I'm figuring it this way... The jointer's job is to get one face flat and an edge at 90 to that face. After that we turn to the planer to go to final thickness. When I plane boards for final thickness I start planing the un-jointed side until I get a full clean pass. From that point on I plane both sides equally as possible to keep the moisture content on both sides as close as possible. By doing this you'll probably plane any tear out from a non-spiral jointer before you hit final thickness anyway.

Considering the matter further, if I were setting up a commercial shop I'd probably start with both the jointer and planer being straight blade and go with a wide belt sander to remove any signs of tearout that may occur. Now, if I were opening a specialty shop that used almost exclusively heavily figured stock I'd seriously consider helical cutterheads over spiral indexable insert cutter heads.

That's just my opinion FWIW. I just do this as a hobby. YMMV