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Thread: Polycrylic over paint

  1. #1
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    Polycrylic over paint

    [strong]BACK STORY:[/strong]
    I'm painting a metal exterior entry door. I began by sanding the old paint, priming (Kilz Premium), then painting with a semi-gloss exterior paint by Glidden. I wanted a deep, dark red (darker than the "forum" banner above}. Of course this didn't work because I didn't tint the primer. I didn't tint the primer because I had to also paint a new set of stairs, railing, and porch that leads to this entry door (so i just used the same stuff for everything. The railings are done and are a light beige color, came out great with 2 coats of paint. I tried 2 coats of paint on the stairs and stopped (horrible looking). I tried 6 coats of paint on the door, but despite all efforts, couldn't get the paint to match the color sample I had chosen.

    So, after much wasted effort, I decided to strip the door and start over. I spent many hours and got all the paint off the door, all the way down to the metal (not an easy task). I went to Sherwin Williams and got a dark grey tinted exterior primer. I plan on putting two coats of that on my door just to make sure I cover all that exposed metal. Then I plan on painting with a different brand of paint (maybe Sherwin Williams) and a different color in hopes of achieving my final goal of a dark garnet / deep burgundy color.

    [strong]MY QUESTION:[/strong]
    I was thinking of possibly painting the door with a flat finish paint to help achieve the same color as the paint chip (which seems to be flat, or perhaps eggshell), THEN covering that with Minwax Polycrylic to protect it. I could use a glossy Polycrylic to get the sheen, but the paint will look it's best because I used flat.

    Is this a better plan of action than simply using glossy latex paint?





  2. #2
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    RE: Polycrylic over paint

    [link:www.minwax.com/products/water_based_clear_protective_finishes/polycrylic_protective_finish.html|This site] does not indicate that Polycrylic has resistance to UV/Sunlight and mentions no uses as an outdoor finish. I don't know that it will hold up in exterior conditions and if the door gets any amount of sunlight, the finish is likely to break down quickly.

    You'd likely be better off going with a varnish or other clear finish that was designed for outdoor use. Another option is to use an untinted exterior grade "deep tint" base. From what I understand, oil base would be best and give the greatest longevity, but a water based product would also work. Deep tint bases are "clear" to allow darker colors of paint that would be difficult to obtain if you started with a white tint base.

  3. #3
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    RE: Polycrylic over paint

    i just went with a semi-gloss exterior latex.

    My next dilemma is whether or not to paint the storm door and buy a new satin nickel lock to match the new entry door hardware ($50) or buy a whole new storm door ($300)

    The old one works, but has a brass lock set and toe kick. I live in chicago and don't think i can buy spray can rustoleum paint, but i'd need to paint the toe kick and door lock satin nickel to match the lock set i bought for the entry door. In addition, the storm door itself is green and I'd have to paint that dark red to match the entry door.

    So many options.

  4. #4
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    RE: Polycrylic over paint

    You could use the same finish schedule that you used on the entry door. Painted locks and toe kicks may not hold up too well. Might get scratched off. Bought Rust-Oleum Universal Metallic Spray, Titanium Silver, at HD, and used it on some discontinued exterior hinges...looks pretty good.

  5. #5
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    RE: Polycrylic over paint

    I'm not trying to sound like a smarta$$ but I would have asked the guys at the Sherwin Williams store instead of asking here...or at least in addition to asking here. They are the paint experts.

    Cody
    Tyler, TX

    [center]He is no fool who gives up what he cannot keep for that which he cannot lose.


  6. #6
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    RE: Polycrylic over paint

    No offense to big dollar marketing, but I tend to find that employees of almost all retail stores to be low on the expert knowledge scale, even at Sherwin Williams. If they were professional painters they wouldn't be working as a cashier at a paint store. That's just my novice opinion on the matter after dealing with the guys at multiple types of retail stores.

    Not to get too far off topic but don't you find that the people with the real expertise are not the ones in the stores selling the items you have questions about? Like sporting goods for example. I seriously doubt that the extreme conditions The North Face gear was designed for any one of the employees at the Sports Authority have ever seen in their lives. My favorite experience is when you get stumped looking for a product on an aisle (in the spot it should be) and you ask an employee about it. They proceed to stand and stare with the same stupid look on their face that you had in the first place. So basically, this guy knows nothing about anything, not even where stuff is on the shelf. Thanks dude, i can randomly look up and down the shelving myself.

    Back to the door. I decided to get new hardware for the doors (entry and storm) to avoid the whole painting metal thing. I did have to paint the storm door since it was green and I needed it red. I thought about buying a new storm door, but $300 was too much (spent less than $100 for all the hardware and paint), they wouldn't be able to match the red i wanted anyway, and it would take two weeks to get the door. I'll post some pics when I'm done.

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