In getting ready for the electrician, I have to cut off a section of pegboard that the previous owner used as paneling.
At the top of the pegboard is a 2x2 cleat that two cupboards rested on. In addition to screws through the 2x2, then through the pegboard, and then into the studs, the pegboard seems to be attached to the 2x2 from the back. The problem is that I can't find the nails or screws when I reach behind the pegboard.
So here's my question: Should I borrow my neighbor's reciprocating saw to make fast work of it, or should I just use a hand saw to avoid the chance of cutting through the outer wall? Once I am through the 2x2, there is only about 24" of pegboard, so it shouldn't take much effort to cut. I'm not worried about how it looks, since the patchwork walls will eventually all be replaced with drywall.
I think you'll find that 2x2 to be pretty soft, and hand sawing really fast & easy if the saw's sharp. The blade on a recip saw won't let you get very close to the pegboard unless you "stab saw" with it, running the risk of kicking the recip saw back into your shoulder again & again & again unless you're really watchful. I'd do it by hand, me, or sneak a circular in to do the job.
Having seen other work by the previous owner, I doubt it.
>I think you'll find that 2x2 to be pretty soft, and hand
>sawing really fast & easy if the saw's sharp. The blade on a
>recip saw won't let you get very close to the pegboard
>unless you "stab saw" with it, running the risk of kicking
>the recip saw back into your shoulder again & again & again
>unless you're really watchful. I'd do it by hand, me, or
>sneak a circular in to do the job.
I'd be cutting through both at the top and just pegboard once I am through the 2x2. I'm more concerned with the recip saw punching through the outer wall material. The pegboard is getting cut anyway and will later get removed entirely.
I just remembered a handsaw given to me by a friend. It should be just what I need.
I would just use a utility knife to score the peg baord and then snap it. From the description, you can remove all the exposed fasteners that are holding the peg board on. Score it right next to the 2x2 and then lift up. The peg board should snap at the score mark. If anything is ragged, you should be able to break that off with a pair of channel locks.
The same width of 2x2 had to come off. Here's what I found after removing the section with the hand saw: The previous owner had put a frame of 3/4" particle board on the back of the pegboard (wasn't visible until after cutting was done), apparently attached that to the wall, and then attached a long piece of 2x2 along the top to support the cabinets. So I was actually cutting through the 2x2, the particle board, and the peg board.
The going was a slightly rough until I got through the 2x2. From there the pegboard was a breeze until reaching the lower particle board frame. That slowed things down a bit. With my daughter's Labor Day BBQ to go to (and make baked beans for), I didn't get a chance to inspect the section I cut off, but I'm curious to see how it was all attached. Anyway the job is done... until I need to remove the rest of the wall over the next year or so.
Now I have to work on roughing in a few receptacles, two switches, and an exterior GFCI receptacle. That last one has me puzzled, as I was going to flush mount the box so the cover would be sealed against the siding. The local big box store only had surface mount exterior boxes. I've got to call the electrician tomorrow, so I'll ask him about mounting that exterior box. He may want me to wait until he is here to make sure its location doesn't interfere with the transfer switch and main panel wiring.
Note: the first two pictures, top to bottom, show the sample woods I bought to match: mahogany, walnut, oak, the bottom is the side of the table. The remaining 3 pictures are of the wood in question...