Cutting aluminum w/carbide blade

[Cherry]

I plan to cross cut an aluminum sill using a 40 tooth Alt. Bevel cabide blade in my radial arm saw. It is relatively soft and maybe 1/16" thick and about 6" across. Should I have any problem? Is there a better way? I don't have a metal cutting blade for my band saw.

Jerry

(Posted originally in wrong forum)

[HAMMER23H]

Jerry it will cut it but it might present a safety issue. I think I would try to cut it with the band saw and a blade with as many TPI as you have even if it isn't a metal saw. A CMS would be safer than a RAS. If you decide to use the RAS it might help to install the blade backward. I personally think a circular saw would be safer than a RAS. Be very careful.

[AZ Scott]

Actually jerry it should present no problem at all. When I was a field guy building store fixtures I bought a cheap mitre saw and used a 60 tooth ATB cross cut blade exclusively for cutting aluminum fixtures. These were substantially thicker than what you describe and cut real easy. Just slow your feed rate a bit (not too slow or your deposit AL all over the blade) you'll do fine. If you read the labels on a some cross cut blades it will even state for cutting non-ferrous metals.
Just plan on a lot of clean up. The blade will throw little tiny squares of alluminum to the farthest nook and cranny.
Full eye protection is the order of the day, either goggles or face shield.

[CajunRider]

My experience is the same as Scott's. No problem except for the tiny aluminum bits. Get your goggle on. Not safety glass, goggle!

[beamerweb]

Just wanted to interject my objection to turning the blade backwards. We have to be careful giving that advice. Carbide tipped blades are NOT designed to run backwards and I wouldn't want to take the chance of one of those teeth flying off. I personally don't think a hacksaw is out of the question unless you have a TON to cut :)

[rrich]

Jerry,
As CjR says, GOGGLES! I'll add LONG SLEEVES.

I have cut aluminum more times than I can remember with an old Craftsman RAS. The trick is to slow the feed rate. Try to support the aluminum 100% of the area of the cut. (e.g. If you're cutting an extrusion) Not absolutely necessary but it will give you less filing to do to clean up the cut. I used what ever blade I had in the saw at the moment to make the cut but always carbide teeth.

I would NOT turn the blade around and spin it backward. Just think of the geometry of the blade. The blade was never designed to cut backward. You wouldn't use the back side of a steak knife to cut your steak so why would you do it with a saw blade?

[TDHofstetter]

Definitely do NOT run the blade backwards. Among other things, there's simply no good reason to do it.

One thing I WOULD suggest, though. Lay a scrap of thinnish plywood under the metal, lay down the metal, set up the cut, and lay another scrap of ply over the top. THEN make your cut. You'll end up with a really clean cut, and there's much less chance of the blade picking up your alumin(i)um and flinging it anyplace.

It's really easy to cut with woodworking tools, and likes the same blade speeds as wood does. Do be aware that you'll fill your shop with tinsel flakes... it doesn't hurt to toss some sort of cloth over the vent openings on your saw before you start cutting - that helps keep the flakes out of your brushes & armature, where they can "smear" and make a mess out of your motor.

It WOULD be better to cut it with another tool - MS or TS or BS... but I wouldn't hesitate for long to cut it with my own RAS.

-- Tim --

Why is
Basic normal psychology
NOT a mandatory
Grade-school class,
Like reading
And writing?

[spartacus]

If you want to go the band saw route, Home Depot and Lowes sell Vermont America Band Saw Blades that run about 10 bucks. Granted they don't last forever, but they do work. I use them all the time to cut aluminum. If you don't have tons to cut, they will get er done for ya.

[Sawduster]

I've used a combo blade on my old tablesaw to cut aluminum as well as brass. What Timmer said about precautions to getting metal flakes all over the shop is good. Don't slow the cut too much, as heat build-up could possibly melt the aluminum making the cuts less accurate.

[scottspencer]

A carbide blade should cut aluminum pretty well....it sure cut into my miter gauge without a fuss!

A non-ferrous metal blade is made for stuff like that....triple chip grind, negative rake angle, high tooth count, etc., but any typical carbide blade should work. A 7-1/4" circular saw blade is an inexpensive option.