Table Saw Usage

[Al (Guest)]

All,

Ive been reading alot of posts about table saws and saftey while using them.....Im pretty new to wookworking and was wondering if one of the more experienced WW on here might provide a list of guidelines for us younger bucks to follow.....it would be greatly appreciated.....things like where to stand? how to use the Miter Gauge? Fence use?....things of that nature.......I hope someone responds....

Thanks
Al

[MadMark]

Stand to one side so piece between blade and fence can't hit you if it comes back.

Hook your fingers over the fence to keep your hand from slipping.

Keep your thumb tucked under your palm, if your fingers clear, the thumb will too.

Use push sticks/featherboards whenever possible.

Focus on the blade while it is turning. If a snake went up your pants while cutting you shouldn't look away!

Don't work while tired/angry/rushed/high/drunk.

Double check everything before hitting the power switch.

If you have an uneasy feeling about a cut *STOP* and figure out why.

Use a splitter.

Don't use both fences on a cut. It's tempting to use the rip fence as a length gauge, but this is a formula for disaster. When using the miter gauge there *MUST* be sufficient space between the blade and the rip fence so the cutoff can be placed diagonally between the two without contacting either.

PAY ATTENTION!

The cutoff should *never* be the peice between the blade and the fence.

Don't make trapped bevel cuts (tilt blade away from fence, NEVER toward)

Count your fingers when entering and leaving shop. If there is a "delta" between the two counts, dial 911.

Wear hearing protection.

Wear eye protection.

Unplug the saw when changing blades/cleaning.

Listen to your mother.

M

[TDHofstetter]

Very well covered, Mark.

I'd like to contend with one point a little - you said "Don't work while tired/angry/rushed/high/drunk". I'd actually like to add just a little to that. Instead of "Don't work while ... high/drunk", don't work while even beginning to get a buzz on. If your BA level is half the illegal level for driving in your location, you're probably judgement-impaired and not up to snuff. I plead guilty for having gone WAY beyond that point in the past, and it was stupid of me. Almost cost me a finger, and the miss was so close as to convince me completely. Not even a beer is now allowed in my shop.

I've got additions to add, too, but they'll have to wait for right now - I'm at work & stuff demands my attention at the moment. I just thought I'd tuck that note in for good measure.

-- Tim --

Forever endeavor.

[jnewlonjr]

Mark, or anybody else

Got any tips on switch placement? I just got my TS Thursday last week. Switch is going to have to go. Not very comfortable to reach well under table to get to. Will not be fast enough in an emergency.

Jerry
:-)
"rookie firewood specialist"

[PastorPaul]

I bought a safety switch from Sears. It is a pull-on, push-off switch. It isn't hard to slap it to shut the saw off. It is mounted right up under the saw table. It also has a removable key for safety. Without that plastic key in place it won't start.

One thing, though. My saw runs on 220v, but the switch is 110v. A friend made a relay setup for me. My switch is actually activating the relay which sends the 220 to the saw.

Pastor Paul

[MadMark]

Have see "crashbar" switches where you bump anywhere along the front of the saw (as in what would happen automatically if you fell forward) to cut saw.

Switch placement needs to be where you can find it without looking and/or hit it with hip w/o letting go.

Mag switches are a nice investment. If power drops they stay out. You can use this as a secondary safety with a foot switch as an emergency cut out. The foot switch can kill but not activate the saw. You have to have the foot switch ON before the mag switch will work.

M

[woodchuck1954]

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON Aug-13-01 AT 09:42PM (CDT)[/font][p]Very simple solution. There are several books available for first time users. Buy one. Asking question on a subject,as you are,is only going to confuse you,with all the different and seperate responses you get. Here is my real recommendation. Yes,books will help get you through,step by step.
If you have a friend or a neighbor or who ever,that owns a tablesaw,get well aquainted. Go watch that person use his saw. Ask questions,as he works. Have the book with you and take notes.
Any kind of machinery that spins sharp tooling can eat you up in an instant,if you don't know how to do it. You have ripping procedures and crosscutting methods. THEY ARE NOT THE SAME. Don't take it lightly. You had to have someone with you to teach
you how to drive a car. A tablesaw can kill as fast as a car.

[Loose Screw (Guest)]

Woodchuck, what are the names of some of those books? I have been looking but have been unable to find anything.

Thanks

[Jules]

Your local library should have a ton (tonne, if you work in metric) of books on woodworking, including table saws.

Tauton Press has a good book and video: The Table Saw Book by Kelly Mehler and a companion video Mastering Your Tablesaw.

Or go to www.tauton.com for more info.

Also, there are a few good books (could be from Tauton Press, not sure) regarding jigs for the tablesaw, like featherboards, miter gauge jigs, etc. Worth a look 'after' you've become comfortable with the basics.

Good Luck, and keep an eye on the fingers. Jules

Remember, the First Rule is 'Safety First'. The second rule is measure twice... :)

[charliefatcat]

Please, DON'T ask questions of anybody while they are working on their saw. Any distraction can be very dangerous.
Gordon Andersen