proper finish for cabinetmaker's workbench

**boneyard** · 11-01-2009, 07:43 PM

I'm ready to finish a classic cabinetmaker's workbench done out of reclaimed poplar. I do not want to stain. I'm okay with the blond look and varied tones. I don't like polyurethane and am leaning towards a shellac or tung oil finish. Which would be better, and if I could just get a basic list of steps that would be great? Or am I going down the wrong road altogether? Thanks, Bob

**arcticfox46** · 11-01-2009, 08:00 PM

Well I am not a cabinetmaker - just a hobby woodworker.

Sorry to say - but I do believe that poly is the toughest most durable finish you can use.

I did poly on my maple lamanated bench a few years ago and have not been sorry at all.

**cabinetman** · 11-01-2009, 08:37 PM

If you are referring to a traditional style woodworkers bench, oil finishes are the easiest to maintain. Using a film finish would be a preference of the craftsman. That bench style isn't used by some cabinetmakers that use primarily sheet goods. Large flat tables are a popular type of work surface.

**beagles** · 11-01-2009, 10:19 PM

Poly has served me well... Easy to apply... and given that you will likely re-sand at some point down the road, not too difficult to reapply.

**brownkm52** · 11-02-2009, 07:58 PM

Chris Schwarz recommends danish oil or oil/varnish blend in his workbench book - he says poly makes the bench too slippery for a lot of work-holding.

**dcarter636** · 11-02-2009, 10:07 PM

I started out with three applications of BLO but then realized that I sweat so heavily while planing in the summer that a couple coats of polyurethane was in order. Liquids easily wipe off poly but soak into a BLO only finish. As to the friction issue, bench dogs and vises take care of that, I seldom try to do work on free floating pieces.

**Keystone** · 11-03-2009, 03:24 PM

This a my hardwood bench (birch). Picture is a few years old. I used BLO for the finish. One coat a day for a week. One coat a week for a month. One coat a month for a year. One coat every year since. It cleans up easy if i get any glue or finish on it.

**Tony B** · 06-02-2010, 09:05 AM

I would suggest an oil finish because glue usually wont stick to it if it drips on the surface. I do all of my gluing and assembly on my outfeed table and I have no finish on it. If you do any finishing or touch-up on your workbench, any hard finish might melt if you spilled thinner on it. I just use a roll of paper for protection

Tony B
www.TheTexasWoodWorks.com

**ScottD** · 06-02-2010, 09:05 AM

I used shellac and wax. I put multiple coats of 1-2lb cut shellac (easier to work with on large surface) and let it dry for 24 hours then rubbed a bee's wax solution on it. The top is easy to repair and glue just pops off. This is the wax product I used and one of the finished tops:

Good luck,
Scott