My shop is very small, so as a result, all of my power tools have to be portable, as I do a great deal of woodworking outside. I have had a skil bench top table saw for years, with an expanded table, and it has been adequate, but barely so. I have recentley been closely looking at the Rigid bench top saw, along with the stand which is on wheels. I know that I can get a contractor saw for less money, but lack of space prohibits it. Has anyone had experience with this saw, and/or stand, and if so, can you give me some feedback on it please?
I HAVE THE SAME LIMITED SPACE PROBLEM AS YOU. I HAD WHITTLED MY CHOICE DOWN TO THE DEWALT 744 AND THE RIGID. I HAVE BEEN USING THE RIGID TS2400BENCH TOP TABLE SAW FOR ABOUT SIX MONTHS. IT WAS ALL THAT I HOPED FOR. I HAVE INSTALLED IT ON RIGID'S SPECIAL COLLAPSIBLE ROLLING CART MADE FOR FOR THIS SAW.
AS WITH ANY OTHER TABLE SAW, THE INITIAL SETUP AND ALIGNMENT IS THE KEY TO SUCCESS. THE ONLY DIFICULITY THAT I HAD WAS ALIGNING THE SAW BLADE. IT TOOK ME A COUPLE HOURS TO GET THAT PART RIGHT. THE FENCE HAS SUPURB REPEATABLE ACCURACY. I SET THE FENCE FOR .002" CLEARANCE AT THE BACK END IN SEPTEMBER. IT'S STILL THE SAME. I USED A DIAL INDICATOR THAT MEASURES TO .0001" I MUST ADD THAT I DID THIS WHEN I SWITCHED TO A FORREST WOODWORKER II THIN KERF BLADE AND STABILIZER. THE ISSUE BLADE IS GOOD FOR ROUGH WORK. A FIRST CLASS BLADE IS ALL THAT YOU REALLY NEED TO ADD. YOU COULD THEN DUPLICATE THOSE PERFECT PAPER THIN CUTS THAT YOU SEE DEMONSTRATED AT THE WOODWORKING SHOWS
IF YOU ARE AS OBSESSIVE AS ME, YOU COULD THINK ABOUT A ZERO CLEARANCE INSERT AND A PRECISION MITER GAGE.
I recently bought the Rigid Bench top table saw with wheels. I have found it to be an excellent saw. Its accurate and easy to use/set-up. My shop is outside in a large shed and subject to severe temperature changes (like when I turn off the kerosene heater) and one of the main considerations for choosing the Rigid was the cast aluminium table. Consider the Rigid hold-down mitre attachment--its great. Only draw back I can see with the saw is that it is direct drive (no belts). Also, it is very easy to move around. When cutting long stock or full sheet plywood I wheel it outside the shed with ease. Lifetime warranty is also a plus.
The RIGID bench top is ok if you can't afford anything else, but cast aluminum top, while lite and portable, is not as smooth as cast iron and the wood doesn;t slide quite as well. Also, that saw is a direct drive motor and for an extra few $$ you can get yourself the contractor model that is belt driven. This is your better bet. You also are better advised to look for a motor with at least 2 HP if you want to cut hardwoods such as oak, etc. Take a look around and see if you can't find a good used cabinet saw first even though space is limited--I have the same problem and also do much of my work outside, but the cabinet saw can be mounted on locking wheels so as to move it where you are working. Good luck.