Just when I had myself talked out of a buying a cabinet saw, and into a contractor saw (mainly because I don't want to re-wire my basement to 220v), I see that Grizzly's now offering a 2hp cabinet saw that runs on 110v.
Price is only about $150 more than their 2hp contractor saw, which I figure is worth it for a Biesemeyer-style fence, SOLID cast iron wings (instead of that lattice stuff), and the stability of a base.
All things considered equal, am I correct in assuming that a cabinet saw will run smoother (less vibration) than a contractor saw. Are there any other 2hp cabinet saws out there? Thanks for your help.
You will be better off running any saw that can be on 220. It draws 1/2 the current lower voltage drop and more effecent operation. Gives you a little more power at the blade and should be more reliable. To run 220 you would need to have a 20 amp breaker, 3 conector with ground 12 ga wire. It is not that hard to do. even if you don't want to do it yourself a electrician could pull in in a couple of hrs.
If you have a dryer connector in the basement you should be able to make an extension cord that will connect the saw easily enough. Dryer will normally have a NEMA 10-30R plug on it. This gives you up to 30A on a 220VAC circuit. You should be able to buy 10/2 w/ground stranded cord (black neoprene cover) at your local home center. You can either wire direct to the saw motor or have a stub cord on it from there.
You'll have a cord running across the floor, but you'll have the ability to move the saw around. Keep the lenght under 30' or so and you shouldn't have any line drop issues.
If you don't have a dryer you can easily have an electrician install a dryer outlet for your use near your panel and do the same trick.
Thanks for the input guys. I'm not afraid to admit that I know NOTHING about electricity, compounded by the fact I live in an 80 year old home with a screw in fuse panel and a pushmatic panel, and lots of handyman electrical work by previous owners...needless to say I can't tell what kind of service I have running. I checked the dryer, and the plate says it's rated at 120v, 6a.
If I ran 220v, would that cause any problems with my tools that are wired for 110v?
You have to run 110V tools on 110V and 220V tools on 220V.
Some tools, (typically TS's) have a set of connections that can be wired for *either* 110V or 220V. 220V is preferred as it reduces the current requirements for a given load. This allows smaller wiring, breaker, etc., albeit at a higher voltage.
110V 6A on your dryer? That is *odd*. A clothes dryer usually pulls a *LOT* more than that - and from a 220V line.
Since you've stated that your wiring is old (fuses went out 30 years ago) and that you know little about electricity, I would suggest that it's time to call in a pro. Ask around and find out if one of your friends/coworkers knows a good electrician who would be willing to come out and give you some suggestions.
Electricity can burn your house down if not properly managed. Sounds like your house has been wired and re-wired. You reach a certain point when it's time to bite the bullet and pay a good electrician to come in and straighten out the mess. If you've been having intermittant electrical problems elsewhere then this is DEFINATELY time to call in an expert.
While it may cost some $$$ to have your panel & service upgraded, this can be a wise investment in your home. Both from a long term value of the house and for the safety of your family.
Codes have changed over the years and you may well have sub-code wiring in your place - esp. if homeowners have been doing things on their own.
I could not agree with Mark more. If your house is wired for the time before all of our electric appliances and the prior owners have added things like dishwashers and other High load items then you might be on the road to problems with out new tools in your shop.
If you don't have any background in electricity then get a pro to give you advice. The cost of some new pannels and the labor to wire it is a lot less then building a new house.
Tonight on the way home from work I stopped in and ordered my new table saw. Due to the 230 Volt issue, I selected a Jet Contractors saw with cast iron table extensions. Rather than get the Xacta fence system, the saw will come with the Jet Fence. I also ordered a Incra TS-III fence system. The miter is the new Rockler precision miter with an 18" fence and stop. Now I have to wait for a week or so for all the equipment to show up. In a year or so the router will probably move to the saw table too. We'll see.