WebSurfers'
Review
A distillation of the best
conversations, opinions and tips from all over the woodworking
Web.
From
the Sept. 25 - Oct. 09, 2001 issue of Woodworker's
Journal eZine
Shop
Concentration
Among
the many people I heard talking about the terrorists'
attack on America, one was an investment banker who got
out of the World Trade Center in time, but couldn't wrap
his mind around the tragedy. So he left the city and went
to upstate New York to do some thinking. He explained
that he went out to his shop because he used to be a cabinetmaker,
but found he couldn't concentrate enough to do a proper
job on the cabinets he was working on. "And as you
know," he explained, "you don't want to have
trouble concentrating when you're working with these tools."
Amen to that. I think a lot of us went out to our shops
this week. And I think, once there, we found it hard to
concentrate on the tasks in front of us. That's OK. For
me, it just felt good to be out there with the tools and
the sawdust and the shavings on the floor. A little sharpening,
a little oiling and a little clean up can provide just
the break needed.
I read somewhere that the day after the tragedy, a bunch
of kids in one school dumped their regular shoot-em-up
computer games - without explanation - for a game that
helped them design and build houses and office buildings.
I think we will all need tasks that require building and
rebuilding in the months ahead.
Bob
Filipczak
Online Editor
Cordless
Circular Saws (Woodworking.com)
If you are wondering if cordless
circular saws are ready for prime time, this was
a pretty good conversation. The opening round
came from a woodworker who built bookshelves from
¾" plywood and wondered if any of
the saws out there could handle it.
A
lot of brand names got tossed around and a couple
did not get good reviews. The ones that got thumbs-up
from different people were: DeWalt, Porter-Cable
and Panasonic. More interesting were the different
thicknesses of plywood that people said the cordless
saw could cut. One person, who didn't recommend
the saw he bought, said 5/8" was a struggle.
Another thought that ¾" was asking
a lot from a cordless saw.
One participant, however, said ¾"
shouldn't bog down a cordless saw and someone
else mentioned that He could get more than 50
lineal feet of cutting from his saw, but didn't
mention how thick the ply was. Finally, one woodworker
claimed that there was a night-and-day difference
between the 18 volt saw and the 14 volt saw the
first woodworker was considering.
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of page
Lessons
Learned (Rec.woodworking)
It's always nice to know that when you really
screw something up, you're not necessarily alone.
That's why this list of lessons learned caught
our attention. Clearly the woodworker in question
was having a bad day.
1. When drilling a block to store your router
bits, don't be a cheap [expletive deleted] and
use framing lumber.
2. When drilling a block for said router bits,
allow more than a hair of
clearance.
3. When moving your workshop from the basement
to the garage, remember that the garage is more
humid. The swelling will lock your router bits
to the block.
4. Sawing and chiseling a block to free your
locked-in router bits is wasted
time that could better be used destroying other
projects.
5. Even desperation and lack of decent supplies
is not an acceptable excuse
for using your good drill bits and sole countersink
bit to prepare your router
mounting plate (1/4" steel). Steel is very
hard on bits.
6. When purchasing a router or any other equipment,
check all the screws and
tapholes. Metric fasteners are [difficult] to
find.
7. One's spouse does NOT like to be awakened
by the sound of a drill press going
through a steel plate.
Well, those are all good lessons. One helpful
participant wrote that he always puts a little
3-in-1 oil in the holes of his router blocks so
they won't get stuck. That raised the concern
that it would make the router bits slip but apparently
that wasn't the case. Finally one woodworker joined
the fray with his list of lessons, all of them
considerably more painful. Over the course of
a year, he ground off some fingertips with his
jointer, lost some more fingertips with a round-over
bit in his router and took out a chunk of his
thumbnail on his table saw. He now has a complete
selection of push sticks, featherboards, holddowns
and jigs. Some lessons are learned the hard way.
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Work
Arounds (Woodnet)
Ok,
you've got to accomplish a project and you just
don't have the tools, the budget to buy the tools
or the time to go get them. Unless you are Norm,
you've probably all been in that position at least
twice a week. This guy wants to do some glue up
for some legs on a project. He can't get a good
glue line and doesn't have a jointer, a planer
or any skills with his hand planes. So what does
he do?
Here's a list of suggestions:
-
A scraper, a sanding block and
a lot of elbow grease
-
Take it to a professional shop
or borrow the use of a jointer
-
A sled on a table saw designed
specifically for trimming the stock
-
Glue the boards and then re-rip
them on the table saw along the glue line (this
was suggested with the caveat that the woodworker
had never actually tried this).
-
A straight bit on a router table
-
Ask the lumber supplier to joint
it for you (small extra charge)
Then, of course, someone mentioned that jointers
aren't that necessary and that touched off a bit
of controversy, but the jointer and anti-jointer
factions have already been well documented in
the last issue of the eZine.
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Walnut
(WoodCentral)
When we were talking with Tom Hutchinson for
Tool Maker Insider this week, he mentioned this
guy he really admired who knew a ton of stuff
about wood. In fact, this expert had just helped
put together a great
book on the different useful woods in the
world. Tom said his name was Jon Arno, which was
quite a coincidence when we looked over this conversation
about different kinds of
walnut, because Jon got mixed up in it.
The original woodworker wondered aloud what the
difference was between walnut and black walnut.
No difference, were the first responses, explaining
that they are one and the same. The guy who posted
the question also wondered about all the heartwood
in the walnut trees in his orchard, but thought
it was because they got more water and were more
carefully tended than wild walnut.
Then Jon joined the conversation, explaining
that orchard walnut trees, i.e. trees raised to
yield nuts, were more likely European walnut trees
that had been grafted to native black walnut roots.
The European walnut, he explained, is lighter
in color and softer but still great for cabinetwork.
The first woodworker got back on and said they
were grafted trees and he was having a heck of
a time turning them into lumber because he was
losing band saw blades on nails and spikes driven
into the trees. He mentioned getting a metal detector
and a moisture meter.
Jon expressed sympathy, especially since the
trunks of the trees are the best for woodworking
because the graft between the native walnut and
European walnut created beautifully figured wood
called claro walnut. He also wrote, "Never
owned a moisture meter. I operate on the axiom
that it can't get too dry. I've left lumber sticker
stacked for literally years."
"I think the claro walnut is why I persist
in milling these logs," the original woodworker
wrote. "I may have to cut around an occasional
nail, but 75 or 80% of the log is useable."
Sounds like he will have some interesting lumber
in a couple of years.
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Mortising
Help (Woodworking.com)
Many of us still cut mortises with a router, some
chisels and a prayer to St. Norm. You certainly
don't see a lot of people insisting that a mortiser
is an essential
tool in a woodshop. Nevertheless, people that
have a dedicated mortiser swear by them. In this
discussion, one woodworker wants to improve the
design of her mortiser and asks for help. She's
trying to find a way clamp stock firmly in place
while she cuts the mortise and isn't sure how.
She also wants to take the small base off her
new JET mortiser and put something bigger on it.
One woodworker, who has a Delta mortiser, provides
a lot of advice. First he points out that she
really wants to be able to clamp stock in place
against the fence, not the base, because keeping
the piece square with both the fence and the
chisel is important. He suspects she will want
to build a whole new base for her machine since
most bases don't handle wide stock very well.
Moreover, he writes, the problem of wood moving
around while she is cutting the mortise may
be a chisel problem, not a base problem. "The
premium chisels are tapered a bit (relieved
under the cutting edge), so that they don't
have such a tendency to bind in the work,"
he writes.
A side conversation then arose about the efficacy
of mortise attachments for drill presses. Since
most of the participants owned a dedicated mortiser,
you can guess that they didn't think much of
that work around. Then the original woodworker
got into it again, thanking everyone for the
suggestions and deciding that she needed all
of the above: better chisels, a rebuilt base
and a way to clamp stock to the fence.
You can review the other articles in this issue
of Woodworker's Journal eZine by clicking on the links below.
Today's Woodworker
Tool Maker Insider
Websurfers' Review
Q&A
Tool Preview
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