wood glue (yellow glue) should be all that you need.
The joint should be tightly fitted and it looks like
yours are! Your working time with yellow glue is about
15 minutes. Yellow glue has a short shelf life (less
than one year) so, if you aren't working with a new
bottle, you might want to get one. Do not overclamp--you
can squeeze out too much of the glue and, of course,
do remove the squeeze out!
Titebond II has the advantage of greater water resistance
(I'm not talking the stray leak, rather dunking it in
a swimming pool) and has some strength across gaps up
to 1/32" but working time is 5 minutes or less and Titebond
II has the same shelf life limitations of yellow glue.
The polyurethane glues (e.g. Gorilla Glue) expand--up
to 4:1 and that is a good thing on a closed joint like
a dove tail, but not on an open joint like your miter
- Bob Hobbs
now has a wood glue out called "extend" which takes
a little longer to cure (which allows you more time
for your glue-up so you don't have to hurry to get your
too, am a convert to the foam glues, like Gorilla glue.
And, try as I might, some always gets on my hands, even
though I keep a large box of disposable gloves nearby.
But, I would NEVER use lacquer thinner, as was recently
advised, on my hands. Instead, a simple pumice stone
will remove the glue in a flash, and leave your hands
looking good, to boot!
- Peter Jensen
prefer TiteBond. Why? Here's a gauge I use, When you
sand over a glue joint how quickly is the belt gummed
up and can it be cleaned from the belt? Elmers is terrible.
Aside from specialty glues I haven't wondered far from
Titebond. It also doesn't seem as likely to run.
use regular old Elmer's "Carpenters Yellow" glue. I
normally wipe up the squeeze out prior to sanding so
clog rate isn't really an issue. Titebond II is preferred
for outside applications as it's waterproof. Elmers
will come apart when exposed to water.
have been using Gorilla glue for the past few months
and it holds very well, spraying the surface with water
truly helps. Though my only complaint is it swells and
runs out of the joint for quite a while after putting
word about Gorilla glue. If you squeeze out the air
and store it upside down, it is supposed to store for
up to 3 years. You can also freeze it. That's from Gorilla
Glue's website. And yep you'd best dampen the joint
cause it reacts with the moisture to set up. A friend
thought his was bad cause it didn't set up. But the
wood was just to darn dry. I always dampen when I use
it. I have used Elmer's yeller glue and it seemed to
give me more working time than TiteBond did. Sometimes
that is a blessing for me, fumble, fumble, fumble. So
that's my story about sticky. And this will make Ya
cringe, I often plane lightly to get it all flat as
a fritter when it's done. (If it's a flat panel)
- Sonny Edmonds
use yellow glue for most applications; white glue when
I need more open time; Roo glue for Melamine and plastics;
Titebond II for wet areas and Gorilla glue for outdoor
use. The new Titebond trim and moulding glue works great
too - no drips!
FYI: Roo glue is a very thin, milky glue that adheres
to melamine, vinyl, laminate, wood etc. One side needs
to be porous. We use it mainly for constructing melamine
I have been using Titebond "dark" glue. Why?? I have
found that even when wiping after glue-up and sometimes
sanding, yellow glue becomes invisible on oak until
the stain is applied. At that point I have to resort
to a scraper to remove it and re-stain. The dark glue
shows much better to the naked eye and I have not really
had any problems since making the switch.
with the yellow wood glue for most projects.
It is relatively water resistant when dry. Not water
proof, but the wood doesn't like water that much ether.
For some projects you might even want to go with more
tough stuff than the woodworkers glue. Gorilla
Glue is really good for difficult applications or
where you might expect weather effects, such as outdoor
only real difference in yellow and white glue
in woodworking is the tack time. The yellow glue
dries faster so projects don't need to stay in clamps
as long. Most woodworkers use white glue for
projects that take longer than 10 minutes to assemble
like dovetailed drawers. The slower tack time give you
longer to work. If you have white glue on hands,
go ahead and use it.
- Dave Lehnert
is the real glue. It comes in dark for darker woods
too. I like it better than the white stuff, as
it is tackier. I use it on dovetails and had no problems.
Elmer's wood glue doesn't even come close
Polyurethane glues (Gorilla, etc.) are stronger
than PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate) glues but that is
not the point on these glues. Used properly the PVA
glues will be stronger than the wood that it is
holding. The Gorilla type glues work better in
applications that might be exposed to water.
- Lou Williams
Your old standby "carpenters yellow" will form
a bond stronger than the wood. Once you're beyond the
wood failure point, does it really matter how far you're
beyond it? The reasons for using alternate glues are
not normally issues of strength, but of cost, application
method, pot life, work time, setup time, water resistance,
etc. Most any of the glues, properly applied will be
stronger than the wood itself.
Never tried white glue for woodworking. I have
used Titebond for years and always had good results
and recently tried Gorilla glue. The Gorilla
works good but, a word of warning, you have to watch
it closely for the first 10 or 15 min. after application,
it foams. I was warned about this and my first use I
waited, wiped the foam and was done for the night, next
day major foam runoff hard as a rock. It is also very
Paid for a class from Marc Adams (Big wood guru). He
said 98% of the stuff he makes is with white glue.
He said the other glues all have their uses (he even
worked with the manufacturers on some of them). But
again 98% of the time he uses white glue.
- Jim Holladay