clamps necessary for gluing?...Clamping
not only holds the parts in position but provides the
necessary pressure to create an even glue film. Beware
of excessive clamping as this can cause a dry joint
by squeezing out too much glue. If using hide glue,
it is possible to use the rubbed joint method where
clamping is unnecessary. Same goes with glues like CYA
that bond on contact. Even contact glues need some form
of pressure to ensure proper bonding. No such thing
as "too many clamps in the workshop"
- Dave in Cairns
an assortment of lengths and some couplers. You can
make up anything you need. For shorter clamping jobs
(less than 3') I tend to use Pony clamps and I only
use the pipe clamps for the big stuff. Normally the
clamps use 3/4" or 1/2" ID pipe (remember that pipe
is specified by the Inside Diameter so that ¾" pipe
is about 1" on the OD!) Black (gas) pipe is what you
need. Schedule doesn't matter, it's not going to hold
pressure. Clean them off with kerosene or mineral spirits
and use some waxed paper so not to get stains on your
might want to look at Harbor Freight Tools. They have
pipe clamps that are identical to pony and when on sale
they cost as little as $4.99 for the 3/4 pipe size.
Make sure they are not the sliding T handle style that
they also sell, they are junk ,but the ones that look
just like the Jorgenson pony style except they are red
and black and that is the only difference. Saving a
couple of bucks doesn't hurt and can then be used to
buy more tools.
trick with clamping is to provide even pressure over
the joint area. Excessive pressure will squeeze out
too much glue and result in a dry joint. If this pressure
is required to bring the parts together , then there
is something wrong . Clamping cauls are useful to distribute
the clamp pressure over a wider area. It doesn't seem
to matter how many clamps you own , there are always
not quite enough when gluing up several parts, so the
15 minute clamp time gives you an idea of how long clamps
will be tied up before you can use them for the next
job. The joints should be set aside and not stressed
for a few hours after this 15 min clamp time.
will usually set everything up dry for the proposed
gluing and see iffen the joints are like I want them.
Then when all the clamps are set close and easy to apply,
the big squeeze goes down.
Generally speaking, I'll run a bead of glue and spread
it with one of those metal handled brushes. I aim for
as minimal a squeeze-out as possible, but want a smidgen,
just to have a visual that the gluing is thorough More
a learned method than a method you can easily explain.
By doing dry runs, there's little need to be fiddling
with scrambling for another clamp. If you can't get
there with what clamps you have, you can go get one
or make up whatever you need to be satisfied you'll
Leave the clamps on for a goodly amount of time. Overnight
helps the glue achieve it's full strength. If the container
says "Full strength achieved in 24 hours" why rush it?
You want to build it to last, not shove it out the door
only to have it fall apart in a week or two.
Waxed paper laid down, and supporting your project off
of your bench will help keep you from making your bench
an unplanned part of your project.
- Sonny Edmonds
for the amount of glue, with carpenters yellow (all
I use) you should wet both surfaces. I tend to be a
little liberal with the glue and just wipe up the excess
with a wet rag. I normally apply a bead to both surfaces
and then put them together and wiggle. Then I take it
apart and check to see that the entire surface is covered
before I put in my biscuits and assemble for real. My
glue spreader is my index finger.
not normally in a hurry when waiting for the glue to
dry. I typically leave the clamps on for at least an
hour or over night. You should allow 24 hours for the
glue to fully cure before applying major stress to the
joint. The 15 minutes is a *minimum* and may be affected
by the dryness of the wood, moisture content of the
air, etc. Better to err on the side of caution and leave
the clamps on overnight than to do it for 15 minutes
and have it shift on you.
hand clamps it's nearly impossible to squeeze out all
of the glue. Got a friend with a giant power clamp (holds
36 stair treads at once!) and yes, he can squeeze a
joint dry, but if you're using standard bar clamps,
you really can't.
using conventional clamps it is important not to overtighten
as this weakens the resultant joint as well as encouraging
the pieces to move. You only need a small amount of
pressure to effect a good joint. Clamps used to try
a force a construction to fit when it won't indicates
that the accuracy of the components needs more work.
repair work where you can't get a clamp or where the
pieces are far to small to clamp accurately, masking
tape is my choice. The green or blue painters tape is
OK, but masking tape is stickier.
box size stuff can be held without clamps if you use
Cyanoacrylate glue to "spot weld" it in place. If the
box is joined at the corners with dovetails or box joints
you can assemble the box then zap the joints with thin
CA glue and it'll be veeeeery permanent.
Also...Get a Merle Clamp [band clamp used for
framing] while you're buying clamps...handy as hell
and not a lot of money. Squares up boxes and picture
frames and face frames quick and easy...it's one of
those "how did I do this before without this" type of
- Marc (aka WoodMangler)
way to go to get the most clamps for the least money
is pipe clamps. The advantage is they are as big as
you need, just more pipe. Other clamps are also very
handy, but we all need to have a bunch of pipe clamps.
- Lou Williams
a variety of clamps and make a clamp rack.
- Robert Walker
can never have enough clamps. I try to carefully evaluate
the size of the next 4-5 projects I'm going to begin
and buy accordingly. Add to your inventory as the project
demands. To start, I would get two 12", 24" and 36"
bar or parallel clamps. You may choose to make your
own with pipe and fittings or go the expensive (Bessey
K-Body) route. Get a couple of hand-screws, some
mini-clamps and some spring clamps in various sizes.
For clamps 50" or longer, I recommend making your own
with 3/4" black or galvanized pipe and Pony
fixtures. It's much cheaper and they're strong. If they
warp/bend...just buy new pipe.
forget clamps too. Bar clamps, pipe clamps, and those
handy spring loaded clothespin type puppies.
- Larry Cook