Dedicated jig is key to consistent tapers

This leg taper jig (on the left) comprises a baseplate, a fence, two stop blocks and two toggle clamps. The fence and stop blocks are angled so that the waste of the desired taper hangs out over the edge of the jig, where it is removed by the saw blade. The jig on the right makes cutting repeated tapers easy, but you can taper only two faces of the stock with this jig. If you want to taper all four faces, you’ll need to move the jig fence or make a second jig.

A hold-down and featherboard are musts when machining decorative leg motifs on the table saw.

Subtle variations on a theme can be created with a table-mounted router or specialty planes.

A simple, safe and efficient way to make tapered cuts on two sides of a square leg for a table or chair is to use a jig dedicated to that purpose. The jig shown at right facilitates such
repeat cuts. As with other jigs, this one is job specific. But it also is so simple that it takes little time to relocate the fence and stop block for another set of tapers or to make an entirely new version of the jig to accommodate different taper angles and sizes of workpieces.

To make the jig, mark the taper you want on the workpiece, then position it on the MDF or plywood baseplate with the excess wood hanging over the edge. Next, clamp the workpiece and baseplate together so you can easily position and fix the fence and stop blocks, which are made from plywood or solid wood.

Attach the fence to the baseplate so it’s tight to the back of the workpiece. Screw the stop blocks into place at each end; note that they will not be at right angles to the edge of the baseplate because the workpiece is aligned with the taper.

Mount the toggle clamps on 2 x 4 material and adjust them so they hold the workpiece down tightly. Make a trial pass with the saw turned off to make sure none of the jig parts gets hung up on any part of the saw.

Carving a Motif

The typical Arts and Crafts motif of raised squares (shown above) is made using a table saw and router. The shape on the edge is a rabbet, the shape down the grain or center is a groove, and the same shape plowed across the grain is a dado.

The rabbet and center groove are accurately made using a top hold-down and a featherboard. It isn’t OK to simply use fingers, because you can’t retain constant pressure on the bed and fence as you move your hands to propel the workpiece.

The dado is done with a spiral bit in a router to reduce tearout and provide a flat bottom.