Join veneers by stretching tape across the joint line, then tape along it and fold the seam open.

Run a thread of glue on the edges.

Refold the joint, scrape off the excess glue, and tape the other side.

Build Your Own Veneer Press

The secret to veneering is applying uniform pressure. On this veneer press, curved battens transmit pressure from the center outward. To make the battens curve, tape two pieces of veneer about one third the length of the batten to the center of each one. Screw the battens to the particleboard cauls, and protect the veneers with smooth, waxed Masonite platens.

Spread a uniform layer of glue with a 3" paint roller.

Spread the glue on the substrate, not on the veneer, then lay the veneer in it.

Assemble the press, platens and panel. Tighten the clamps in pairs, working from the center outward.

Veneer makes the most of the rarest and most beautiful woods. Veneers are thin and delicate, so working with them takes a bit more care than working with solid wood.

When you look closely at a piece of veneer, you’ll note that one side is rougher than the other. The shiny, smooth side is called the tight side, while the rough side is called the loose side. Whenever possible, glue the loose side down, leaving the tight side facing up for finishing.

All veneered panels consist of five elements: face veneer, glue line, substrate, glue line and balance veneer. The substrate has to be strong, dimensionally stable and flat, properties found in industrial particleboard and medium-density fiberboard (MDF).

You don’t need exotic glues to do the job. You’ll get excellent results with regular yellow or white glue spread with an ordinary 3" painting roller. For dimensional stability, you must always glue veneer onto both sides of a panel. The balance veneer doesn’t have to be the same species or thickness as the face veneers, and its grain doesn’t have to run in the same direction. It’s the glue line that balances the panel, not the veneer itself.

Cutting Veneer

The key to success with veneers is cutting clean, straight edges. While there are special tools for the job, you can get perfect results with a sharp knife and a straightedge on a smooth surface.

Cut the veneer to the dimension of the substrate plus an inch, giving you a half-inch overhang all around. To crosscut, set the straightedge in place, hold it tight, and take a firm pass with the knife. Chop down extra hard for the last half-inch of the cut to prevent splintering there. Then make a second firm pass with the knife. To cut veneers lengthwise, make a series of light passes with the knife. Concentrate on keeping the knife against the straightedge, so it doesn’t wander in the grain.

Once cut to size, pieces of veneer have to be glued together edge to edge. Knife-made crosscuts will be clean enough to join without further preparation, but you will have to shoot long-grain edges — that is, plane or rout them straight and square.

Joining Veneers

Close the joint with masking tape. Blue painters tape works well and can be removed without tearing the veneer or leaving residue.

Here’s the sequence: Press a own veneer press piece of tape onto the first veneer, then pull the tape to butt the two pieces together, stretch it across the joint line, and press it onto the second veneer. With one side taped, fold the joint so you can spread a fine thread of glue on the mating edges, then close it, scrape and wipe off the excess glue, and tape the other side. Let the glue dry for a couple of hours before you carefully remove the tape. In a complex assembly, don’t try to glue more than one joint at a time. That way you can adjust each pair of edges before gluing it to the next. You’ll probably have to deal with a few stray cracks and tears. Make sure the broken pieces will fit together neatly, then glue and tape them as if they were a regular joint.

Gluing the Veneer Panel

The veneered panel is a sandwich, and like a sandwich, it goes together all at once. When you’ve cut and joined the face and balance veneers, you’re ready to glue up. First, however, align the veneers on the substrate to make sure you know where they go. In most cases, a center line or center cross is all you need for a layout line, but be sure to extend the marks onto the edge of the substrate as well.

The sequence is easy when you spread the glue with a small paint roller. Roll glue onto one side of the substrate, position the balance veneer and hand-press it into the glue, flip the panel over, roll glue onto the other side, and position the show veneer. Then pop the panel into the press. Always spread glue in a uniform layer on the substrate, not on the veneer itself. If you try to roll it onto the veneer as well, the thin material will curl up and you will lose control. When you get it right, you’ll see little beads of squeeze-out as you press the panel. Leave the panel clamped in the press overnight to dry thoroughly.