shop essentials:
Clamps and gluing

Are clamps necessary for gluing?...Clamping not only holds the parts in position but provides the necessary pressure to create an even glue film. Beware of excessive clamping as this can cause a dry joint by squeezing out too much glue. If using hide glue, it is possible to use the rubbed joint method where clamping is unnecessary. Same goes with glues like CYA that bond on contact. Even contact glues need some form of pressure to ensure proper bonding. No such thing as "too many clamps in the workshop"
- Dave in Cairns

Buy an assortment of lengths and some couplers. You can make up anything you need. For shorter clamping jobs (less than 3') I tend to use Pony clamps and I only use the pipe clamps for the big stuff. Normally the clamps use 3/4" or 1/2" ID pipe (remember that pipe is specified by the Inside Diameter so that ¾" pipe is about 1" on the OD!) Black (gas) pipe is what you need. Schedule doesn't matter, it's not going to hold pressure. Clean them off with kerosene or mineral spirits and use some waxed paper so not to get stains on your project.
- MadMark

You might want to look at Harbor Freight Tools. They have pipe clamps that are identical to pony and when on sale they cost as little as $4.99 for the 3/4 pipe size. Make sure they are not the sliding T handle style that they also sell, they are junk ,but the ones that look just like the Jorgenson pony style except they are red and black and that is the only difference. Saving a couple of bucks doesn't hurt and can then be used to buy more tools.
- Duane

The trick with clamping is to provide even pressure over the joint area. Excessive pressure will squeeze out too much glue and result in a dry joint. If this pressure is required to bring the parts together , then there is something wrong . Clamping cauls are useful to distribute the clamp pressure over a wider area. It doesn't seem to matter how many clamps you own , there are always not quite enough when gluing up several parts, so the 15 minute clamp time gives you an idea of how long clamps will be tied up before you can use them for the next job. The joints should be set aside and not stressed for a few hours after this 15 min clamp time.
- eslacker

I will usually set everything up dry for the proposed gluing and see iffen the joints are like I want them. Then when all the clamps are set close and easy to apply, the big squeeze goes down.
Generally speaking, I'll run a bead of glue and spread it with one of those metal handled brushes. I aim for as minimal a squeeze-out as possible, but want a smidgen, just to have a visual that the gluing is thorough More a learned method than a method you can easily explain.
By doing dry runs, there's little need to be fiddling with scrambling for another clamp. If you can't get there with what clamps you have, you can go get one or make up whatever you need to be satisfied you'll be successful.
Leave the clamps on for a goodly amount of time. Overnight helps the glue achieve it's full strength. If the container says "Full strength achieved in 24 hours" why rush it? You want to build it to last, not shove it out the door only to have it fall apart in a week or two.
Waxed paper laid down, and supporting your project off of your bench will help keep you from making your bench an unplanned part of your project.
- Sonny Edmonds

As for the amount of glue, with carpenters yellow (all I use) you should wet both surfaces. I tend to be a little liberal with the glue and just wipe up the excess with a wet rag. I normally apply a bead to both surfaces and then put them together and wiggle. Then I take it apart and check to see that the entire surface is covered before I put in my biscuits and assemble for real. My glue spreader is my index finger.

I'm not normally in a hurry when waiting for the glue to dry. I typically leave the clamps on for at least an hour or over night. You should allow 24 hours for the glue to fully cure before applying major stress to the joint. The 15 minutes is a *minimum* and may be affected by the dryness of the wood, moisture content of the air, etc. Better to err on the side of caution and leave the clamps on overnight than to do it for 15 minutes and have it shift on you.
- MadMark

With hand clamps it's nearly impossible to squeeze out all of the glue. Got a friend with a giant power clamp (holds 36 stair treads at once!) and yes, he can squeeze a joint dry, but if you're using standard bar clamps, you really can't.
- MadMark

When using conventional clamps it is important not to overtighten as this weakens the resultant joint as well as encouraging the pieces to move. You only need a small amount of pressure to effect a good joint. Clamps used to try a force a construction to fit when it won't indicates that the accuracy of the components needs more work.
- Limey

On repair work where you can't get a clamp or where the pieces are far to small to clamp accurately, masking tape is my choice. The green or blue painters tape is OK, but masking tape is stickier.
- kcW

Jewelry box size stuff can be held without clamps if you use Cyanoacrylate glue to "spot weld" it in place. If the box is joined at the corners with dovetails or box joints you can assemble the box then zap the joints with thin CA glue and it'll be veeeeery permanent.
Also...Get a Merle Clamp [band clamp used for framing] while you're buying clamps...handy as hell and not a lot of money. Squares up boxes and picture frames and face frames quick and easy...it's one of those "how did I do this before without this" type of tool.
- Marc (aka WoodMangler)

The way to go to get the most clamps for the least money is pipe clamps. The advantage is they are as big as you need, just more pipe. Other clamps are also very handy, but we all need to have a bunch of pipe clamps.
- Lou Williams

Get a variety of clamps and make a clamp rack.
- Robert Walker

You can never have enough clamps. I try to carefully evaluate the size of the next 4-5 projects I'm going to begin and buy accordingly. Add to your inventory as the project demands. To start, I would get two 12", 24" and 36" bar or parallel clamps. You may choose to make your own with pipe and fittings or go the expensive (Bessey K-Body) route. Get a couple of hand-screws, some Bessey mini-clamps and some spring clamps in various sizes. For clamps 50" or longer, I recommend making your own with 3/4" black or galvanized pipe and Pony fixtures. It's much cheaper and they're strong. If they warp/bend...just buy new pipe.
- Bob

Don't forget clamps too. Bar clamps, pipe clamps, and those handy spring loaded clothespin type puppies.
- Larry Cook