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essentials:
The
most critical part of using and of these jigs is the
depth setting of the bit. This isn't stressed nearly
enough in most literature. You have to cut test pieces
to get the depth set right. This is such a critical
adjustment that I suggest you invest in a cheap, pawnshop,
spare router so that once you get the depth set right,
you can leave the bit installed.
- MadMark
the
advantage of the Leigh Jig is that the bit depth is
not the key issue. The Jig has an adjustment scale that
allow you to reset it right on for a bit. Once you take
the 5 to 10 minutes to set it up and record the setting
it will only take a couple of seconds to reset it a
week or a year later. It cost more, but it is worth
every penny.
- Lou_williams
OK
Listen Up. I know all the regulars will be wondering
"when is Limey going to wade in" Well if you all can
tell me of a less expensive jig for making, standard
dovetails, spaced dovetails, angled dovetails, box joints,
of infinite length accurately then I'll buy you a pint
and the biggest item on the Burger King Menu.
The Stots jig found at stots.com
has to be the answer. $40 plus the bits and bushings
that you need anyway ...(they supply you with Whiteside).
Now to be fair what you get is a template for making
the jig which is easy peasy japanesey. You make your
jig as long or as short as you want and you end up with
the Katie jig for want of a better description but no
restriction on length.
BUT (and it's a but similar to mine, a BIGGG butt) if
in your enthusiasm to finish your project before the
Football starts you damage the jig by nicking it or
damage it some other way the Stots system allows you
to make another and another and another.......takes
about 20 minutes and uses 3/4 MDF. I think I'm up to
six now all spaced and sized for different jobs and
I STILL have the original master to make infinitely
more.
It's so inexpensive that you think there has to be a
catch, If there is it's stayed well hidden from me.
- Limey
I
also use a Craftsman dovetail jig, the "Professional"
version which costs more but gives you more capacity
(width) and an extra template for making box joints
as well. Virtually any well-made dovetail jig will work
as long as you remember to use the proper sized bit
and collar. Take your time getting the stock lined up
right and all will be well in dovetail land. Porter
Cable makes a really cool looking dovetail jig but it
is so impressive I never ask how much, I just covet
from a distance.
- Tom Hintz
Try
this link.
It is step by step instructions on box joints. The page
also links to a box joint jig.
-
Bob
The
*best* jig is a "Lynn's". You can get the plans for
free at Lynn's
Box Cutting Jig. Here is a pic of the shop built
prototype:
Don't
let it's rude appearance fool you. It cuts *perfect*
joints and in some ways surpasses Incra's and other
jigs. You can use it with or without a dado blade and
you can adjust the joints from "Hammer tight" to "hinge
loose"
Here's a pic of a box made with it:
- Mad Mark
Norm, again a risky topic, back in the early days of
the show used the Leigh Jig. When PorterCable became
a major fund source for the show, he changed for one
season to the PorterCable Dovetail Omnijig. The next
year the Leigh was back but the label was removed.
The Leigh costs a bit more, but you get lots more with
it. One jig that can do almost anything you want with
dovetails and complex joints if you want. The best feature
is that you can set the number and spacing of the dovetails
independently. This gives the look of handcut dovetails
with the ease of use of machine cut.
Before you buy the Omni check out the Leigh.
- Lou_williams
Right
now I use my Incra TS with router table inset for dovetails.
I wanted the TS fence and the simple aux fence was a
cheap upgrade ($85). But if I ever buy a dedicated dovetailing
Jig I am sold on the Leigh also. If you could just see
the thing being used you would be amazed. Once this
puppy is set up you can do things that would take hours
to set up otherwise. I would heed Lou's advice on this
one. Go to a woodworking show before you make your decision.
Give yourself the chance to see the jigs in action..
- ChrisM
I
too bought the Omnijig because I got a good deal. If
I had the money, I would go with the Leigh. However,
the PC is great. Just one problem: the video which accompanies
the jig does not do a good job in showing the order
in which the pieces are rotated. This is a critical
step in the process, especially when doing four sides
of a drawer. I complained to PC, but I don't know whether
they fixed the video. The manual is also deficient in
this regard.
- SB
If
you feel confident enough and competent enough to tackle
a 16' dovetail then think about making your dovetails
using the Stots Template maker. Look up their website
at stots.com and follow the links to read reviews and
especially John Lucas at woodshop demos.(He makes a
24 inch Blanket Chest with one) I was about to buy a
Leigh when I stumbled across this item. For $40 plus
bits which I believe you have to buy with all the jigs
mentioned. I felt it was worth a shot because I usually
want a straight through dovetail joint and didn't want
to be restricted to a maximum width, and I liked the
ability to do variable spacing (foregoing random spacing)
although even that can be done with careful thought
and accuracy when making the template. I can tell you
it works really well. Don't take me wrong if you feel
comfortable going for a proprietary jig that is the
best decision for you. My intention is to draw your
attention to something different, for me I might one
day feel the urge to by a top of the line jig and burn
deep holes buying all the add-ons just for the hell
of it but there is also something warm and comforting
to know that there is a very easy way of making extremely
well fitting joints for a more a modest amount of money.(Guess
that's the English in me!!)
- Limey
When
you make box joints there are a couple of tricks to
get things to come out right. You need to make your
raw stock a multiple of the combined width of a pin
and a slot. So if you're making say ¼" box joints, then
a ¼" pin plus a ¼" slot is ½". So you should make your
raw stock width a multiple of ½" and NOT ¼". If you
make it a multiple of ¼" then it will start and end
with either a pin or a slot and nothing will fit right.
Another tip is when you reverse the piece flip it end
for end instead of rotating it. So a piece should have
pins on both ends of one side and slots on both ends
of the other side. When you set your bit depth set it
a hair higher than the thickness of the stock. This
will make the fingers slightly proud and you'll have
to sand them down flush with the sides. If your cutter
is slightly shy then the fingers will be recessed and
you'll have to sand the entire side down to get it to
match. There are several ways to cut box joints: Pin
Jigs with a dado blade on the TS Templates for your
dovetail fixture and freehand router Lead Screw jigs
for the TS or router table Precision positioners (Incra,
Jointech, etc.) Of the four the lead screw or precision
positioners give you the best, most flexible results.
Pin jigs suffer from cumulative errors where any error
in the spacing of the pin in relation to the kerf, or
any width error on the pin accumulates. This compounds
and causes problems in wide stock. Pin jigs are also
inflexible in that they generally cut one and only one
width. They also generally require a dado blade in addition
to the jig itself. Templates for your dovetail fixture
work well, but are inflexible. They also don't generally
don't allow you to gang cut. Precision positioners work
with your TS or router table and provide accurate, consistent
joints, but generally do not allow you to "fine tune"
a cut. Thus making box joint hinges is not usually possible.
Lead screw jigs are probably the best of the lot if
you need flexibility. They don't have cumulative errors
like the pin jigs, they have as much precision as the
precision positioners, they allow gang cutting, do not
require a dado blade and you can easily fine tune the
joint from hinge loose to hammer tight. Precision joinery
takes time and practice. One of the problems that most
folks have with dovetail jigs is that they don't get
the cutter depth adjusted right and even though all
else is correct, the joints won't fit right. You *MUST*
practice on scrap to get the cutter depth right *EVERY
TIME* or you'll not be able to make anything other than
scrap. This requirement is so strict that certain 'old
hands' suggest dedicating a router specifically to this
task so you can set and forget the bit depth. Visit
my web page to see detailed "How to's" on making box
joints and other items. Mark's
Wood Shop.
- MadMark
I'd
recommend the Porter Cable 12" half-blind dovetail jig.
I've seen it advertised for under $100. I've got a VERY
old version of this and it has never failed me. Like
other low cost jigs it only does fixed spacing dovetails.
If you need anything other that fixed spacing half-blind
dovetails then you are looking at a more expensive jig.
- Ned Mellon
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