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Tool Maker Insider


From the June 19, 2007 issue of Woodworker's Journal eZine

The Exotic-Looking Wood Next Door

"Is there any way to dye solid wood all the way through?" 

That's one of the questions we frequently get here at the magazine, often followed by the explanation "I'd use fancy exotic wood but it is too unstable, too expensive, rough on tools and environmentally irresponsible."

Until now the answer was always no, so imagine my surprise when I ran across just such a product at a woodworking show recently. There in front of me sat an assortment of solid wood boards, colored all the way through and made to look like cherry, walnut, ebony and a variety of other old friends, all sold under the trade name Alowood. When I delved further, I was in for even more surprises.

Not only does Alowood look good, it behaves itself as well, offering more stability and less wood movement than the exotics it imitates. Because it is offered as already dressed boards, it is easier to use and is typically cheaper than the wood it mimics. Best of all, it is made from easily available, fully sustainable wood.

"Alowood," explained John Gibb, the managing director of EverTech, the company responsible for its creation, "is a dyed, stabilized version of very sustainable and available wood made to look like its more exotic or desirable brethren. The process starts with a wood like Radiata pine. Plant starch is dissolved and injected back into the wood with a crosslinking thermoset polymer. We fill up the cells of the wood with dye and starch, crosslink it, then evaporate off the water. The result is pine that is denser, stronger and harder than the original wood, and can be made in any possible color.

"In terms of twisting, cupping and bowing, Alowood is more stable than Radiata pine, and much more stable than many exotics. It will move like other woods, but less than most other woods. In fact, it moves about 30 percent less than Radiata, a wood already considered to be one of the more stable woods out there."

"Alowood is perfect for people desiring to use unsustainable hardwoods," added Karen New, the company's director of marketing, "but who want real wood that looks and acts different than what is plentiful. In many ways it is the best of both worlds.

"Because it is colored throughout," she continued "it has the look and characteristics of fancier hardwood but is both cheaper and more consistent. It also offers the ability to mix wood colors together that otherwise would be problematic due to wood movement differentials. Because they all have the same property but look different, you can make more stable pieces that look like unstable exotic combinations."

Though it hardly seems necessary with pre-colored wood, Alowood will take stain or dye. Of course, it is easily glued with all common wood adhesives. "Ironically," Gibb pointed out, "the dyes we use will gradually fade, but only at the very surface of the wood, so it returns to the color you started with if you sand it. In that respect, it behaves exactly like the real thing, though we have found that Alowood fades much slower than most richly colored hardwoods.

"For a hobby woodworker who wants an exotic-looking coffee table but can't afford ebony, for example, Alowood is ideal. It is easier to use than real exotic hardwood, and it's not as hard on your tools. One teacher we sell to likes giving his students Alowood because they can make things that might be problematic using the real thing. We sell clear, sixteen-foot, one inch by six inch boards that are all identical. You can buy a stack of boards that have no knots, imperfections or wainy edges to get 100 percent yield and consistent color."

Equally remarkable is that this product came about almost by accident. EverTech, the company responsible for it, is a joint venture between Chemco and MeadWestvaco. Chemco is a wood treatment and wood technology company that does, among other things, fire retardant pressure treatment using nontoxic materials. MeadWestvaco has a specialty chemical division that tries to find ways to recycle byproducts from their papermaking and packaging operations.

"One of the side effects of fire retardant is that it makes wood harder and more brittle," Gibb explained. "We have always fought that because nailed shingles will break more easily. We spent years trying to get wood fire resistant but not hard. Conversely, there is a large wood modification industry in Europe trying to harden softwoods. This combination of needs, along with a declining market in fire retarding wood roofing, led us to explore another avenue.

"Meanwhile, a Japanese company named ADWorlz asked us to produce hardened Radiata pine with no phenolic or formaldehyde. We created a formaldehyde-free formulation that hardened wood and let us add color as well. After selling wood to them, we came to the attention of MeadWestvaco, which was trying to use pine extractives to harden wood for the flooring industry. They felt we were further along, so we got together and became a joint venture to take the wood to market. The result is Alowood.

"Though we currently use mostly yellow, Radiata and Ponderosa pine, the process can also be done on other woods, including some of the softer hardwoods like poplar, aspen and even soft maple. We are currently working with local hemlock to get that to work, and also working with Canada to treat otherwise wasted lodgepole pine trees that were killed by mountain pine beetles. The projection is that up to 50 percent of these trees will be destroyed by the beetle. Beetles used to get killed by freezing, but the warming global temperatures mean they are thriving, surviving year-round, multiplying and destroying lots of wood. We may be able to take this low value wood and improve both the quality and market value of it."

One weakness of Alowood is that it is only appropriate for indoor use, but even that may soon change. "We are pursuing a technology that would take waste wood from pine, put it back into pine and create a wood that could be used outdoors," Gibb explained. "Hopefully, it will be available by 2008."

Conscious of the environmental impact of shipping, they aim to diminish that by selling the chemicals that create Alowood. You need pressure treating and kiln drying capabilities to thermoset the polymer, but they will sell to whomever would like to become a licensee. "We hope to set up more regional manufacturing facilities that would allow people to treat locally grown wood rather than shipping wood all over the world. That is the ultimate environmental footprint.

"We have frequently talked about the environment and how the average woodworker can make a difference," Karen added. "All of our materials are both Greenguard certified, a status that relates to indoor air quality, and Forest Stewardship Council certified. We use plantation grown, sustainable, quickly grown wood for our products. This is wood you can feel really good about using."

"Once this is readily available," Gibb noted, "it will offer a wood that is easy to work with, exotic-looking, affordable and environmentally responsible."

That sounds to us like a woodworker's dream.

The "Johnny Appleseed" of Costa Rica

Back in 1797, just 20 years after America declared its independence from Britain, John Chapman started planting orchards of apple trees on tracts of land he owned throughout Ohio and Indiana. This earned him the sobriquet "Johnny Appleseed."

In 1991, Steve and Sherry Brunner starting planting teak, nargusta and suradan trees, along with a few other species, on tracts of land they own in Costa Rica. So far, they have planted some two million trees and show no signs of slowing down.

Chapman's goal was to provide pioneer settlers with apples, but Steve and Sherry set out to grow wood, and lots of it. "Once we saw those little trees coming up," Steve said, "Sherry and I decided to devote the rest of our lives to doing this." They created Tropical American Tree Farms, and estimate that just the trees they currently have under cultivation may eventually yield some 200 million board feet of wood. Extrapolating from current prices, that works out to two billion dollars worth of wood.

Perhaps best of all, they welcome anyone else who shares their vision to invest and become a partner in this unusual and earth-friendly venture. Obviously, there is more to this story than meets the eye, so I spoke with Steve to learn a bit of history and get a peek into the future.

"I graduated from law school in 1969," Steve recounted, "and went into the real estate business. In 1974, I wanted to buy some warm weather oceanfront property for investment purposes, but land was too expensive in the U.S. Instead, Sherry and I bought 2,500 acres in four segments in Costa Rica, a country with a thriving economy, a long-standing stable democracy, and constitutional protection of private land ownership. I managed the property, flying back and forth between Costa Rica and Columbus, Ohio.

"Flying during the dry season, I would often see smoke rising. Farmers were cutting down the trees as fast as they could and burning them to get them out of the way. Their goal was to create cattle grazing land to feed the American beef market. You could literally see the rain forest disappearing, and it really bothered me. This was also causing the price of lumber to keep rising in the area.

"During the 1980s, I did a lot of investigating into wood prices and the feasibility of tree farming in the tropics. In 1991, Sherry and I decided to buy an inland farm to start a tree farm for ourselves. Our intention was to plant trees and harvest them 25 years later, but along the way we learned that we might not have to wait that long. There are some very fast-growing trees in that region.


"Some of the fastest growing tees that yield attractive workable wood are teak; gmelina, sometimes called white teak though it is not related to it; mangium, an accacia species; nargusta, a yellowish wood with pink stripes; and suradan, a dusty rose color wood that gets darker as the tree ages.

"Initially, we started buying land to prevent it from being deforested as well as land that had already been clear cut. We used the already cleared land for planting. We have never cut down any forest or any trees in the forest. Instead, we protect existing forest, and plant for production on other land. It should be clear, though, that what we create are tree plantations, not forests.

"Using local labor, we planted about 63,000 teak, nargusta and suradan trees, along with several other species, on about 150 acres. After the trees are planted, it is a non-stop process of weeding, and eventually pruning and thinning. The plantations all need to be thinned at various stages. Thinning starts after about seven years for some of the faster growing species, and for most species is done every three to four years after that. During thinning we take out the least desirable trees.

"Meanwhile, my wife's father, who had been following our progress, asked to invest in the venture. We came up with the idea of selling live trees to others for investment purposes. The idea was that we would take care of them, but the trees would be owned by investors. When the woodworking community found out, we started getting invitations to speak to woodworking clubs.

"It's grown from there, and today we have over two million trees under cultivation. We currently grow 14 different species for tree owners and 51 species for ourselves. More than half of the trees are owned by tree owners. Some do it for investment reasons, others for the wood, and a few are using it as an excuse to write off fishing trips to Costa Rica. We sell in multiples of 100 trees at about 50 dollars per tree. Each person owns specific trees with locations laid out by row and column.

"There is a risk, of course," Steve was quick to point out. "Your trees could die while the ones nearby owned by someone else thrive. In 1996, for example, a hurricane came through, and we lost about 40,000 trees, all owned by tree owners. However, rather than let them take the hit, we replaced them with our own trees of about the same age. That way, no investor lost any trees. It's not in our contract, but if truth be known, we would do the same thing again as long as we can afford it.

"When it was time for the first thinning, we already had some tree owners besides ourselves. We went in naively thinking the small dimension wood from the thinning would be saleable, but were disappointed to find it had little or no value. Rather than throw the wood away, we set up a workshop to find out what we could do with it. The first thinning was teak, yielding boards four inches and under. To our surprise, we discovered that young teak is even more beautiful than older teak, showing even more chatoyance and depth. We decided to use the wood to make really high-end furniture and veneer. With that, a second company, which we named Raleo®, was born.

"Raleo is a Spanish word meaning 'a thinning' and ,true to its name, the wood for Raleo furniture and wall treatments comes from the wood harvested during the thinning process. We made a lot of samples of various surfaces on small pieces of wood and took them to an upscale builder's show. The response was overwhelming.

"We moved to a 10,000 square foot shop in San Jose, Costa Rica, hired some people, and started selling processed finished wood surfaces and furniture at high prices to upscale markets. We still sell strictly to designers and architects. In time, the facility has grown to 40,000 square feet, and the current demand outstrips what we can produce.

"To put it simply, Raleo, which Sherry and I own outright, creates value for underappreciated wood taken from early thinnings, then buys this otherwise low value wood from the tree owners. We pay a higher than market rate for the wood, often two and half to five times the going rate. The upshot is that it makes earlier monetary returns likely for tree owners.

"Of course, the bulk of the value for tree owners is still in the final harvest, which will far surpass whatever they glean from thinnings. The end goal is to produce not just sawn wood, but veneer quality logs, which have far more value per tree. We have been able to get veneer from trees as young as seven years old. It makes the prospects for this venture much better than it looks at first blush.

"Some of our tree owners have already gotten more back than what they paid for their trees just from the rewards of the first thinning, and they still have all their best trees growing larger. On the other hand, some are still waiting. We do not take any money from new investors to pay older investors. What you get depends entirely on what happens with your trees, and in part, how patient you are, since waiting longer usually yields a better pay out."  

Though investors are increasing, it is not due to active selling. "We try to graciously answer questions," Steve admitted, "but that is it. If you are interested in finding out more, we invite you to browse the web site. There's enough information there to help you decide whether this is for you."

It must be right for a lot of people. At present, they have some 300 employees, thousands of tree owners, and own one tenth of one percent of all the land in Costa Rica. "Profit and love for the environment can go hand in hand," Steve insists. "You can run a profitable business that also helps the environment and takes very good care of the land." To guarantee that the company continues long after he and Sherry are no longer in the picture, they set up a trust that will continue to run it according to their values and the responsibility they feel to their tree owners.

"We really believe that being good stewards of both trees and people is our mission in life. We don't use herbicides or pesticides, and we don't allow hunting in the farms. As a result, a lot of animal species that are considered scarce are returning, and these rarely seen animals will often come right up to the door. Some, like kinkajou and coatimundi, come right into our farmhouse."

Lush surroundings, a good business and the satisfaction that you are doing right for both customers and the environment seems like a perfect combination, but there is still one more vicarious joy Steve admits to feeling.

"More than a thousand tree owners have been down here to see their trees and go through the rain forest," Steve told me. "Seeing the rain forest for the first time is a hard-to-describe experience. Watching their reaction is almost as good."

 

"To Infinity and Beyond!"

As soon as I laid the Router Emergency Kit on the table at my guild's board meeting, I knew I'd have to keep an eye on it. As it passed from hand to hand ,the comments ranged from, "Now, that's a good idea; it's exactly what I need" to the inevitable, "Can I have it?"

No wonder. The kit is a clever assortment of replacement bearings, screws, washers and stop collars for router bits. It's the perfect solution for anyone who has ever grappled with failed bearings or incorrect sizes on bearing-mounted router bits. The kit contains 10 replacement bearing screws, four hex keys, two bearing dust shields and 13 bearings, some of which have inserts for different size bit shafts. Fortunately, I was able to stave off those tool hungry wolves by pointing out that it only costs 40 dollars, and they could easily afford their own.
As slick as it is, the Router Emergency Kit is only one of close to a thousand items sold by Infinity Cutting Tools, a relatively new company quickly making a name for itself in the highly competitive field of router bits, saw blades, shaper cutters and associated accessories. At that it is an ancillary product: the bulk of their product line covers every type of usual and unusual router bit and shaper cutter you could ever hope to find, and some innovative table saw blades as well.

In fact, it is innovation that sets this company apart from its wealth of competitors. The company comes by that honestly, because when it comes to tool design, Infinity's owner, David Venditto, boasts a very respectable lineage. "I grew up around the wood cutting tool business," David informed me rather modestly, adding, "My father ran a large cutting tool manufacturing company that makes saw blades and router bits."

In fact, his father's story is well known in the woodworking field. The former president of Freud, David's father left to start his own company, Jesada. He came up with the company name by stringing together the first two letters of the names of each of his three children, Jessica, Sabrina and David.

"I graduated from college with an economics degree in 1994," David recounted, "and started working for my father at the Jesada factory. He sold Jesada in 2001. I went off to Europe to work as a management consultant for an Italian motorcycle manufacturer, Moto Guzzi. After about a year, I moved back to the states to work for Jesada's new owners, but found the company had changed dramatically.

"Meanwhile, Infinity had been created in 2003 by Corey Spann, an importer/distributor who was trying to set up a line of cutters. It never got off the ground, and Corey, whom I knew as a former employee of my father, gave me the name. I started a brand-new company around it but kept the name because it reminds me of the infinite opportunities to make infinitely better products.

"I went back to my experience in the mail order tool distribution field and fashioned Infinity into a company that designs, engineers and distributes premium cutting tools for woodworkers. That includes router bits, shaper cutters, saw blades, and woodworking accessories, like pattern door templates, sleds, and other gear that revolves around the router, shaper and table saw. We have a catalog and only sell direct, either by phone or through our web site. Selling direct and avoiding secondary distribution sites allows us to price our cutters competitively."

There is certainly no shortage of variety in the product line. David's catalog is awash with cutters that make you say, "I didn't know you could buy that." Things like flush-trim carbide spiral cutters, specially sized wing cutters for fitting odd thickness plywood panels, trim cutters with both a top and bottom bearing, replaceable insert cutters, rabbet cutters with multiple bearings and a host of cutters to make things like box joints, finger joints, floating letters, beads and coves, and just about anything your heart desires. The same sort of variety is available in their shaper cutters, too, but they don't stop there. One of the products David is proudest of is the Dadonator, a whimsically named eight-inch dado set that occupies a place of honor within his line of table saw blades.

"Our Dadonator has won multiple awards from several magazines," Dave announced proudly. "The outside blades are nickel-coated, which prevents moisture from entering the metal plate, thus preventing rust and pitting and extending the life of the blade. Nickel also adds lubricity similar to the Teflon® some companies apply to their blades. Inside are six-tooth chippers rather than the more common two- or four-tooth ones. The chipper is more solid with a larger plate and more mass to reduce vibration, which translates into smoother, clean-bottom cuts. The outer blades have 24 alternate bevel teeth with a 20-degree grind, a higher angle which results in less chip-out and smoother cuts in difficult woods, such as veneered surfaces. The result is a very clean, square, flat bottom cut on all types of wood and plywood."

In addition to cutters, Infinity also turns their designing talents to accessories. "Our coping sled, for example," David told me, "is a very unique product. It is a massive, solid aluminum, CNC-machined eight-pound router crosscut sled. That combination reduces vibration, is safer and makes for more accurate repeat cuts. The sled has a comfortable, ergonomically correct handle, three 500-pound toggle clamps and a Lexan® safety visor that runs against the router table fence. The Lexan not only protects you from flying debris, it also keeps the base of the sled away from the spinning router bit. On some coping sleds, the base itself runs against the fence, allowing it to come in contact, albeit accidentally, with the bit. This sled makes cross grain or cope cutting fast, safe and easy."

David's pride in both his products and his background are understandable. "I know of no other web distributor that has the sort of experience in the field that we do," he insists. "That experience allows us to design superior cutting products. Our customer is the quality-conscious hobby or pro woodworker. We don't target those looking for throwaway bits. We use the best carbide, high quality resilient steel that will not break or crack, and the best shear and cutting angles devised to ensure clean, burn-free cutting. Simply put, our tools yield a cleaner finish and have a longer life.

"The only thing that exceeds the quality of what we make is our customer service. It is one of the pillars of our existence. We return calls, return emails, address any concerns our customers have, and offer a lifetime guarantee on everything we sell. We've had a lot of praise for our attitude and approach, and that is critical to us. The bottom line is that our customers have learned to trust us to provide superior quality and service, and we try to meet that expectation every day."

The Domino Effect

A few weeks ago, a reader asked what was the most efficient, fastest and easiest way to cut mortises and tenons on a production scale. That would have been a tough question a year or two ago, but as of April second of this year, there's a simple answer: the Festool Domino joiner.

Touted as the quickest, easiest and ultimately cheapest way to make accurate mortise and tenon joinery, Domino has been making a splash on print and web site ad pages for the past few weeks. The buzz is that Domino appears to be the most revolutionary advance in joinery since the biscuit, and one that makes a giant leap forward from that technology.

To get some firsthand information, I called  Bob Marino, a former woodworker and a regular on woodworking message boards. In fact, he is known as the "go-to guy" for online Festool advice, and one of the country's largest dealers. All Festool dealers are allowed to sell anywhere in the country, but Bob says there's a good reason he has such a loyal following. 

dominoes"All the pricing is the same," Bob explained, "so many of my customers come to me because of the service that I offer. I try to be honest with people, and make every attempt to make sure people buy the right tool for their needs. After the sale, I make certain that I give them support. On forums, I have tried to be more of a resource person than a sales person."

It was not hard to get him to talk about the Domino. "Most woodworkers agree that mortise and tenon is one of the strongest joints available," Bob pointed out, "but one that can be difficult and time-consuming to make correctly. On the other hand, biscuit joinery is one of easiest to make, but offers substantially less strength. Domino is the marriage of the best of both. The Domino looks a bit like a biscuit joiner, but in actuality it is the only portable floating tenon joinery machine on the market.

mortise width selection"The way it works is that a rotating and oscillating cutter plunges into the wood to cut a consistently uniform mortise. After both sides are cut, a pre-formed domino-shaped floating tenon is glued in. The tenon is solid beech
stamped with extremely subtle ridges and markings that help hold glue. The face impressions become flush once waterbased glue is applied to make a solid joint. However, the tenon itself does not swell, a problem often associated with biscuits. The end result is a perfectly snug slip fit floating tenon every time, resulting in an extremely strong and easy to make joint.

"The dominos themselves come in five thickness and length combinations that correspond to four different bit options in the machine. The machine comes with the five mm cutter, which is fine for light work. Most purchasers in Europe, where it was first introduced, buy the assortment that comes with four cutters and 1,000 dominos. The four cutters are 5, 6, 8, and 10 mm. The lengths range from 30 mm for the five mm cutter to 50 mm for the ten mm. By adjusting the depth, the 8 mm cutter works with both a 40 and 50 mm domino.

"Any cut you can make with a biscuit joiner, you can make with this machine. Domino is essentially maintenance-free. The cutters themselves, which cost about 30 dollars, are carbide-tipped and will last for up to 5,000 cuts in hardwood, and up to 15,000 in softwood. Dominos themselves start at about three cents apiece, which makes them cheaper than the amount of wood used up in cutting a fixed tenon.

patented mortising"The machine itself is loaded with features like an absolute indexing system that alleviates the need for marking, easy adjustment for angled cuts, and outstanding dust control when paired with the Festool dust collector." That's an important issue for Marino, who still works part-time as a respiratory therapist, his former career.

Festool is a relative newcomer in the U.S., but in Germany, they boast the largest market share across a wide swath of woodworking. Their entry into the American market was both tentative and a bit unusual in approach.

"Originally," Bob recounted, "most sales agents were carpenters and professional woodworkers who were actually using the tools and showing them to coworkers on the job site. Until a couple of years ago, no one was allowed to stock tools. They were drop shipped from one of two warehouses. I would go out to shops and woodworking shows and do demonstrations of Festool tools, then sell them online. As the Internet grew, my involvement with Festool grew.  One big break came when I demonstrated Festool to the Silva brothers of This Old House fame, and they started using them on the show." Today there is a widespread dealer network across the country in addition to online sellers.

mortising height adjusterNot surprisingly, this sort of quality and innovation does not come cheaply. A package consisting of the machine, cutter assortment and dominos will set you back almost a thousand dollars. Clearly, this is a tool aimed at professionals and serious hobby woodworkers.

"Professionals will prize Domino for its savings in time," Bob insisted, "while hobby woodworkers may see it as something that alleviates aggravation. I suspect that many hobby woodworkers will use the Domino to attempt joinery projects they might otherwise have avoided. With it, anyone can make floating tenon joinery flawlessly. Mortise and tenon joinery was never so safe, accurate, and dust-free.

"My prediction is that Domino will soon become the generic term for this type of machine in the same way that many people call all brands of reciprocating saws a Sawzall ™, and all nylon abrasive pads Scotchbrite ™. I feel certain that this machine will change the way people do woodworking."

ShopBot: CNC For the Rest Of Us

Remember those clever all-in-one tools like the Shopsmith? The idea was to have one machine that took up limited space but could do almost every woodworking task. Well, say hello to ShopBot, the modern answer to that age-old problem.

The entry-level ShopBot is a tabletop tool that theoretically could replace every tool in your shop. It cuts, carves and shapes, can do just about every wood cutting task from the mundane to the frighteningly accurate and specialized, and will never cut a finger off.

"Is he talking about a CNC machine?" I can hear you saying with incredulity. "He must be nuts. Those things are big, expensive and difficult to use." Many are, it is true, but this one is a welcome exception, designed by a hobby woodworker to solve his own challenges on the cheap. A basic model starts at around four thousand dollars, not much more than a good table saw or plasma TV screen, and though it costs a lot more than a hammer or chisels, it is considerably less than the combined value of the shop full of common woodworking tools it replaces.

"When you think of it as something that allows you to express your imagination and designing talent, it may be downright cheap," insists Ted Hall, the president and founder of the company. "The range of what you can make, design or create on a ShopBot is endless. Think of it as a personal robot that empowers your creativity, or a shop buddy with really good hand-eye coordination."

CNC, which stands for computer numerically controlled, simply means that a computer tells the cutter exactly where to go and what to cut. The level of precision is beyond what most of us can routinely accomplish or even need, and once it has its program in place, it works quickly, efficiently and tirelessly. While CNC machines are not new to the field, something affordable is a serious departure from the norm. For that, we can thank an academic who wanted to make a boat.

Ted Hall was a neurobiologist by training, and a professor and research scientist at Duke University. He started ShopBot as a second job about twelve years ago. "I was interested in building plywood boats in my back yard," Hall explained, "and set out to create CNC software for designing them. The problem with plywood boats is that they all look like shoeboxes, but with modern software you can design something more interesting and complex. If you have the right pattern to cut the flat parts out, when you put it together it will take the form you want it to take. Computer modeling makes that easier, so 15 years ago I developed a program for backyard boat builders to do it on their own. 

"I found myself printing out and taping together all these templates for cutting boat parts and figured it would be a lot easier to just hook up a router instead of cutting them out with a jigsaw. By then, I knew what a CNC router looked like. To me, it was just a giant plotter with a router instead of a pen, and I could not see why it couldn't be built for a thousand bucks or so instead of the 50 thousand needed to buy one.

"I built my first router-based CNC machine out of plywood. It consisted of a table with a gantry, or moving beam, along which a router can ride. That allows you to cut in two dimensions. By adding another, smaller beam you can also let the router move up and down, adding the third dimension. In addition to a plywood frame, I used an assortment of common hardware like patio door wheels, cables, nuts and bolts and stepper motors. A stepper motor is a unique, brushless motor that makes digital positioning moves, which interfaces nicely to computers. The computer can tell it to make a step of any size, and it can do that. That first one cost just a few hundred dollars in motors and electronics, but took several months of my spare time.

"One interesting characteristic of it was that it was self-replicating. In other words, it could cut all the parts to make another one. It seemed almost Star Trek – a replicator that you tell what you want and it spits it out.

"I took the tool to show and tell at a woodworking club and met two guys who later became principals in the company, both former woodworkers with a lot of experience in professional woodworking. We grew from there. Over the past 12 years, we have grown into the largest producer of affordable CNC routers, with about 30 employees building some 6000 units per year in Durham, North Carolina.

"Initially, I planned on simply creating a set of instructions and a hardware kit. I figured the wood parts could be made on a friend's or neighbor's ShopBot. The problem was that it would not scale up, because when you made the plywood gantry bigger, it sagged. I went to Home Depot and found utility strut – long, chrome-plated steel U-shaped channel with slots cut into it used to hang lights and other parts. It became both the rails and gantry of the next iteration.

"We soon discovered that we could buy the hardware at a quarter the price by buying in bulk. For instance, that first kit had 36 patio door rollers. Most stores don't stock that many, and they are more expensive to boot. Another way we manage to stay affordable, even today, is that everything is modular. The smallest and largest tools we make use the same modules.

"I thought my customers would be hobby woodworkers and assumed that for a couple thousand bucks everyone would want one. Instead, my first customers were small cabinet shops and sign makers. They knew what a CNC tool was, had wanted one for a decade, but couldn't afford one. They expected to make a buck with it the day after they got it. They all said they would pay a bit more if it were a little faster, a bit more powerful, and already put together, so we did that. We morphed the kit into something that merely needed to be assembled. In fact, we went through four stages of changes, from 'make most of it yourself' to working models that have only four parts to assemble.

"We have gone from a tool that looked like an erector set to one that looks like a serious machine. We have also gone to performance levels on our 12-thousand dollar tool that are equivalent to an 80-thousand dollar tool from our competitors.

"We still want to grow the low end of the CNC market. There's a big part of me that is interested in getting CNC into the shops and garages of DIY woodworkers. We call our tools PRS or personal robotic systems because we want to orient the tools to be used by people, not large companies. We made something that might not have the speed and power of a huge commercial tool, but is accurate and easy enough to be usable by an ordinary person. That does not mean larger companies don't appreciate them. Companies like Boeing buy them as well. The largest custom cabinet company in the U.S., a company with 2,000 employees, has 12 ShopBots. Nevertheless, I feel robotic tools are wonderful for individuals in their small shops at home, so we continue to work on getting the cost and size down so that they fit into both the shop space and budget of the hobby woodworker.

"My orientation is from education, so I am big on the education process as well. Hence, we have lots of training and education resources on our web site. Customer support follows the same lines. We provide free software upgrades for life, and the software is continually being updated. The software we use is very easy to run, but it is also flexible enough and full featured enough that you can modify it or extend it to do what you like. We also provide 24/7 technical support locally, not somewhere in India. There is always someone on call, right here at ShopBot in North Carolina, day and night. We understand that many of our customers are depending on our tools to make a living with, and we take that responsibility very seriously.

"Another unique aspect of customer support is our online forum. Our forum is uncensored, so you can read the complaints, the rebuttals and all the opinions and information our customers share. We also have an annual get-together called Shop Bot Jamboree held in various parts of the country to help users meet one another and share information, and there's a new Wiki, or online encyclopedia of ShopBot information. In short, we go out of our way to make sure our customers are happy and productive, and that attitude permeates everything we do."

As a result, they have managed to develop somewhat of a cult following whose members view using a ShopBot as being part of an affinity group and not just being an owner. Owner and devotee Ken Picou described the company to me as "the Tupperware of CNC" because of they way they sell and the "share the good news with your friends" feelings ShopBot engenders. When you think about it, that's probably one of the nicest things you can possibly say about a company that makes high-tech products.

Grafted Coatings, Inc.: The Guitarmaking World's Secret Finish

In what may be the clearest example of the tail wagging the dog, a family-owned manufacturer which set out to create coatings for the door and window market has recently become the darling of an elite segment of wood finishers: guitar makers. Grafted Coatings, Inc. did not set out to win that market, but a few luthiers discovered their premium finish and coaxed them to fine-tune it to fit their ideal. This finish luthiers love is a super-durable cross-linked coating with the rather inelegant name KTM-9.

"You can brush or spray KTM-9," explains Tim Bolton, the vice president of operations. It is easy to apply, predictable, stable, and it flows out beautifully. It has good penetration and wetting, and the high solids help it build quickly with fewer coats. Perhaps most importantly, it doesn't look like a typical waterbased coating. KTM-9 helps pop the grain better and doesn't have the bluish haze and lack of clarity that you often see on other waterbased coatings, especially with thicker or high gloss finishes. In short, it has the advantages of waterbased finishes combined with the warmth and depth most people associate with lacquer."

So far, the company has remained largely below the radar of other woodworkers and furniture makers, but I suspect that may change. How this family company even came to be involved with coatings at all is a story in itself, and one that is almost as unlikely as a finishing product that only guitarmakers seem to know about. 

It started with Tim's father, 74-year-old James A. Bolton Jr. "After graduating from Providence College with a degree in biology," Tim recounted, "he sold insurance, was a road salesman for Coca-Cola, and was a pharmaceutical industry salesman who worked his way up the company. During the height of the first energy crunch in the 1970s, he left abruptly to sell insulation. He'd locate bad insulation jobs by inspecting for heat loss with an infrared scanner. His intent was to sell insulation, but it also had the effect of indicating poor workmanship, which inspired him to go out on his own.

"Noticing most losses around windows, he started making and selling indoor storm windows. This system of Plexiglas® sheets with magnetic strips that attached to your windows was quite popular during the 70s. You'd put them on a window, and they would stop 100 percent of the airflow leaks. By the early 80s, the interior storm windows became less fashionable, and vinyl replacement windows started becoming more popular, so we started into the remodeling business selling vinyl replacement doors and windows, then eventually making wood window systems as well.

"People want windows that look like wood but are maintenance-free," Tim pointed out. "As a result, the vinyl manufacturers try to make their windows look like wood, and the wood people try to make theirs act like vinyl. What makes a wood window act like vinyl is the coating. When we started making wood window systems, we noticed that finishing was one of the most expensive parts of the process. A lot of that was due to the setup costs for solvent-based systems and dealing with the resultant VOC regulations. Waterbased seemed to be not only the better way to go, but a cheaper way to go as well. Not happy with the options out there, we started making our own coatings in 1992.

"Our early waterbased products required the user to add a separate cross-linker to convert the finish to an ultra-durable one. Gradually, over the past eight years as the technology improved, we started switching over to one-pack systems. They make the system easier to use for the finisher, more predictable in that you don't have to wonder if an employee added the cross-linker in the right amount, and also much safer. Handling some of the old cross-linkers in concentrated form was somewhat dangerous. One-package self-curing systems like ours are much safer to handle, yet still have more than a year of shelf life, because the cross-linkers don't kick in until the system starts to air dry.

"Initially, we formed a separate company to sell waterbased coatings to the millwork industry, but a few years ago, one of our sales reps introduced our product to the guitar making industry, and before we knew it, we had a niche market. We made some changes that made it more appropriate for luthiers and came up with a coating that is harder, has higher solids and better clarity, an amber tint to make it look more like solvent-based lacquers, and the ability to build multiple coats in a day, all in a brushable material. Of course, you can also spray it.

"Our main products are still for the door and window market, including one rather unique patented coating we make, a wood graining finish kit for embossed fiberglass or steel doors. It works on both raw and painted wood, too, as long it is a wood with open grain. Other clear finishes include a spar varnish called KTM-SV which, like KTM-9, can be used indoors, outdoors and is even tough enough to use as a wood floor finish." If there is one catch, it is that finishes like this are not cheap. The KTM-9 goes for $85 per gallon, and the SV for $61 per gallon.

















 
When it comes to the company itself, it is very much a family affair in several ways. "Half the employees are family members," Tim told me. "Even the name of our finish line comes from the first letters of 12 of Jim's grandchildren, who coincidentally all had names starting with K, T, or M." Tim is quick to point out, though, that their definition of family extends far beyond mere blood lines. "My father envisioned this as a family company. We're a big family, and a growing one, because we treat our employees like family, too. Our goal is to make safe products in a safe work environment and sell things we are proud of to loyal customers.

"It's not enough to just make a can of paint," he insists. "It has to actually produce a finished product once it gets on the surface. When you look at any wood product, the first thing you see is the finish. Putting our finishes on wood transforms it into something that is beautiful and durable, and adds years of life. As our slogan says, 'It's not just paint. It's a KTM finish,' and that is really how we feel."

Wood Essence: Canada's 'Go To' Supplier of Hard to Find Finish Materials


In our last issue we visited one of the many finish suppliers here in the U.S. That inspired a few of our Canadian readers to remind me that many American finishing products are not shipped across the border.

To make amends to our northern neighbors, I'm devoting this issue's Industry Interview to a Canadian finish supplier, but not just any supplier. As owner Jeff Richardson says about his company, "Wood Essence is the 'go to' company for the finishing materials you can't find elsewhere in Canada."

The reason for the company's very existence goes back to Jeff's own frustration at being unable to find what he needed for high quality finishing. During years spent working in other fields, he never gave up woodworking as a hobby, and finding the "right stuff" was often a problem.

"In high school, I did a lot in industrial arts," Jeff recounted, "especially woodworking, and over the years I always did woodworking as a hobby. I began working in construction after high school, but soon switched over and became a machinist for a number of years. While machining, I got turned on to CAD, so I started a business selling AutoCAD systems and training people to use them, and did that for 18 years. I sold the company in 2001 feeling it was time to move on to something else."

Fortunately for Canadian woodworkers, that something else turned out to be supplying hard-to-find finish materials. "As far back as 1997, I had been trying to find finishing products that I liked and that would create the finishes you see in magazines. These were not the sort of items that you find at a big box store. Even when I found them, it was tedious and difficult to get them up here in Canada. In fact, I hear something similar from my customers every day. They often phone and say they are shocked to find these items here even now.

"Shellac flakes, colored waxes, dyes, grain filler and pigment concentrates were rare as hen's teeth around here, so I decided to make them available to others. I opened Wood Essence in Saskatoon, a city of about 200,000 people in the heart of Saskatchewan, and quickly became the conduit for specialized American and European finishing products into Canada."

In case you were wondering, the name Saskatoon comes from the Cree Indian name for a local indigenous berry. If you go there, you might find the berry, but don't bother looking for a walk-in store. Jeff's business is a two-person company with a warehouse and a web site, but no storefront. That allows him to concentrate on selling only specialized items that he feels are worth handling, both in terms of usefulness and quality.

"We started with only three or four products: dyes, shellacs and fillers," Jeff explained, "but soon added waterborne finishes, which I see as the future of finishing. The trend is for customers to switch to waterborne finishes both for their own safety and for environmental reasons. Since then, we've added waxes, pigments, gel stains and even spray equipment, and will continue to add products as our customers request them. We are a niche market and intend to stay that way, so don't expect to ever see us carry the products you find at the local hardware or home store.

"Currently, we carry Mixol universal pigment concentrates, Target waterbased finishes, pore fillers, various grades of shellac, paste waxes in all colors and Bartley gel stains and finish. In addition, we offer Mirka abrasives, Walcom spray guns and DaVinci brushes from Germany. Though they are actually made as artist's wash brushes, used for applying backgrounds on entire canvases, we find these DaVinci brushes work superbly for waterbased coatings and shellac, the only two brushable finishes we sell.

"One exclusive product line is our ColorFX dyes, which is our own brand of liquid dye concentrates. As far as I know, we are the only ones in Canada offering this sort of thing. They are very convenient, easy to use and mix, and will go into a wide variety of materials. There is no need to wait for powdered dyes to dissolve or to pre-mix anything. You can simply add them, a drop at a time, to get exactly the color you need in a wide range of compatible mediums."

It seemed clear that Jeff's business was aimed squarely at folks just like himself, and he was quick to confirm that. "Although I do have some professional shops as customers," he admitted, "my main focus is primarily the semi-professional and hobby woodworkers who are more particular about the finishes they are after.

"At the typical home store, people tend to settle for what is available rather than getting exactly what they need. For example, you can't find grain filler or dyes at a home store, but you can at Wood Essence. Here, we offer the specialty items that they could be using, and perhaps most importantly, a lot of good advice on what to use and how to use it. In part, that is because we don't have online ordering, which means we get to talk to most of our customers directly by phone. That allows us to make certain they are getting finishes that suit the task and are compatible with their other products. It also gives us a chance to do a good bit of teaching.

"One of the things that is most painful to me is to hear back from a customer who has put together an ill-conceived finishing schedule that has resulted in a disaster that looks awful or is peeling off like cellophane. To forestall that, we listen to our customers, answer their questions, and make recommendations that we feel will result in finishing success for them. My biggest recommendation, of course, is for all of my customers to test every finishing material first, especially if they are planning on pairing our finishing materials with something they have bought elsewhere.

"People often build a complete project and wait until their last day before considering their finishing schedule, and because of that, frequently end up disappointed with their results. I recommend they spend 10 or 15 minutes at the end of every day during the building of the project testing and practicing with whatever finish materials they have chosen. That way, by the end of the project they have worked out all the bugs, know what to expect and know that everything works.

"This, of course, implies that you should envision the finish at the same time you first envision your project, and work on the two simultaneously. A bonus of this approach is that you end up with a finish sample in hand, done on offcuts of the wood you are using for the piece itself. After all, it is wisely said that if you are not experimenting on scraps, you are experimenting on your project.

"The odd thing is that people routinely use scraps to check the settings on their table saw, router and so on, yet will not use those same scraps to try out their finishes. My advice is to spend a few minutes with your finish. It will pay off."

Robert Larson Company, Inc.: A Fourth Generation Hardware Vendor with First-Generation Values

Many woodworkers, myself included, have bought tools from Robert Larson without ever knowing it. No, we are not wandering around in a dream state: it is simply that his eponymous business, Robert Larson Company, Inc., only sells indirectly. "End use customers can not buy directly from us," Robert explained, "but in fact, most of your readers have bought from us. We sell to the stores they frequent.

"For example, we are the exclusive importer for the German tool company Two Cherries, which makes chisels, saws, scrapers and carving tools. We also import Sjoberg benches from Sweden, Anant hand planes from India, Colt drills and Kunz spokeshaves, draw knives and scorps from Germany, Stern boring tools from Austria, handmade varnish brushes from France, and Keller dovetail jigs from right here in the U.S. There's even a line of gardening tools from the 800-year-old Clarington Forge in Lancashire, England, a company founded by Cistercian monks. It is the last forge in England still producing gardening tools.

"Possibly the most unusual line of tools we offer, at least as far as most woodworkers are concerned, is our timber framing collection. It includes one-person timber and log saws, two-person crosscut saws, axes, barking spuds, froes, adzes, draw knives, inshaves and scorps. These tools are common among green woodworkers, but most woodworkers today have never handled them."

Though he imports from many countries, one that is conspicuous by its absence is China. Nothing that Robert Larson sells comes from there. That may be because his focus seems to be more on quality than price, and to hear him tell it, things were that way from day one.

"My goal has never changed," Robert insisted. "From the beginning, I always wanted to make the highest quality products in the world available to people who appreciate them. For a few years at the beginning, I thought the problem was distribution: that the products were already here in the U.S. but local stores simply did not carry them. That turned out to be false, and ultimately, I found I had to go to Europe and bring them in myself." 

A quick look at his lineage, and you can see why he nominated himself for that task. "I come from a long line of people in the hardware business," he recounted, "and it is a line that continues to this day: two of my five children now work in the company. My great-grandfather, grandfather and parents all had hardware stores.

"I grew up in my parents' hardware store, but decided I wanted to be a woodshop teacher instead. At the time I got out of college, though, it was difficult to make a living for a family as a teacher. Instead, I went to work at the family hardware store and bought it in 1976. At the time, it was a very small store. I decided if I was going to be there anyway, I wanted to sell something I really enjoyed, so I started selling woodworking tools.

"The first line I imported, about 30 years ago, was Two Cherries. I still had the hardware store, but was starting to sell to other stores as well, because it is very difficult to import products for one store. We found that other stores were also interested in being able to get their hands on high quality imports and started selling to them in 1979. The business grew, and somewhere around 1982 we closed the hardware store to concentrate entirely on the import and distribution business.

"What we have tried to do is put together a relatively complete line to supply retail stores. Those that have too small a volume to bring in a complete line of specialty tools on their own, or stores that simply lack the time or expertise to assemble a complete, high quality line, can offer their customers that option through us. We've taken the guesswork out of adding a fine woodworking department to these stores.

"Though we do not sell to Lowe's® or Home Depot®, you can find us at Ace®, Do-It-Best® stores, at a host of independent hardware stores and chains across the country, and of course at most woodworking specialty stores, like Rockler. For many years, we kept quiet about who we were, figuring since we were not selling directly to the public, we did not want to frustrate them. We've since realized it is important for people to know of us, so lately we have been putting the company name on our packaging along with the tool brand."

That's not to say that there are no Robert Larsen tools. There are. "Perhaps the line most often associated with this company is our own line of Robert Larson turning tools," Robert told me. I asked him to explain their origin.

"High-speed turning tools produced in England are incredibly good, so about a decade ago I got in touch with a machine shop in England to make high quality blades. We had the handles designed for us by a woodturner in San Francisco. I said to him, 'Design a handle that you would put on all the tools you use for woodturning in your own shop,' and the result was an ash handle with a smaller cross-section in the center for better grip, a larger stronger section where the tang is set, and an oil finish rather than a film type finish.

"That finish was entirely intentional. When your hands get sweaty from working, oil-finished wood gives you a better grip. These days, the handles are turned in Maine, and the blades are made in England, but the final tool is assembled right here in our own facility."

The one puzzlement for me was why, in this Internet age, Robert chooses to sell through stores rather than through his web site. "There's a large number of woodworkers who want to touch and feel the product before they buy," he pointed out. "This is especially important with hand tools for two reasons. First, the tools must fit and feel comfortable in the hand. Second, most cutting tools are not ready to be used right out of the box: they need to be tuned up before use. A good salesperson can guide you through the process of fine-tuning a tool for use, and even show you how to use it properly. They can also direct you toward what, exactly, is the right tool for the job, something that is not always readily apparent."

That concern for the woodworker came through when I asked if he had any advice for those of us in the checkout lines. "I would like to see woodworkers buy tools of integrity," he insisted. "Buy the best tool you can afford to buy. It will last longer and, in the long run, it will be less costly. This is something we often talk about within the family. We are proud of the service and products we sell, and we want woodworkers, our ultimate customers, to be successful with the tools they buy."

Laguna Tools: The European Gold Standard Goes Platinum


From its inception, Laguna Tools has enjoyed the reputation of the company that brings the best of European tools to the US. That's not surprising. After all, the owner and president, Torben Helshoj, is himself from Europe. But after more than a quarter century of specializing in European imports, Laguna is about to introduce the Platinum Line, their first Asian imports. It was a long time coming, but Helshoj had good reasons for waiting, and equally good ones for deciding to make the jump now.

"Up until very recently, we've been a rather snobbish company," Torben admitted, "selling only European tools. We did so because they were distinctly better. Nevertheless, we always kept an eye on the Taiwanese and Chinese imports and noticed them getting better and better. We watched as both American and European manufacturers bought more and more components and even complete machines from those countries. The difference between price and quality has now narrowed to the point where it makes sense to start importing from there.

"Thanks to a weaker dollar, European tools are more expensive than they were, and much more expensive than their Asian competition. You can now buy a lot more tool for the dollar if you spend it in Asia. Consequently, for the first time we are offering Asian manufactured machines, priced much lower than what our customers are used to. Admittedly, they are not up to European quality, but they are much closer than ever before.

"We feel this is the right time to introduce the Laguna Platinum Line. It allows us to sell to people who do not have three thousand dollars in the budget for a table saw. Those customers want very good quality, but at a price they can afford. At present, the Platinum line contains American style cabinet table saws, jointers, planers, horizontal and chisel mortisers, drum sanders, European style panel saws with sliding tables and scoring blades, various sanders, lathes, combination machines and even dust collectors. Soon to come will be band saws that have the distinct features our customers have come to love on their Laguna tools."

While Laguna Tools calls California home, Torben himself got his start, and his attitude toward quality tools, on the other side of the ocean. "I grew up in Denmark," Torben recounted, "and apprenticed for four years in Copenhagen as a furniture maker. Afterwards, I worked there for about six months. Then at the age of 28, I went traveling and fell in love with Laguna Beach, California.

"I got a job in a cabinet shop there called Canyon Woodworks, but felt the tools in the shop were substandard. I convinced the two owners of Canyon to go to Europe with me on a tool buying mission. At that time, in 1982, the dollar was strong so our buying power in Europe was considerable. We bought a container of mostly used machinery and ended up with a very nicely equipped cabinet shop, which helped the business considerably.

"The people we bought the tools from, though, wanted to do business in the United States. Along with what we needed, we agreed to also bring in a couple of Robland multi-function machines, a type of tool that was common in Europe but at the time, not very common here. The next year, I became a partner in both Canyon Woodworks and the newly named Laguna Tools, and started going to woodworking shows trying to sell machines. Customers had a positive reaction, but that's a long way from getting money out of them. As a result, we continued to make our living as cabinet makers.

"Then in 1987 I made a presentation video of the Robland machine and started sending that to prospects along with literature. That brought the tool alive to people and let them see the massive differences between it and something like a Shopsmith. The video made the company successful overnight and was the real beginning of Laguna Tools.

"We hired salespeople, got a warehouse and started advertising in woodworking magazines. At first, we brought in an Italian made band saw and some Belgian and Austrian combination machines, and sold them under the Laguna name. We soon added other manufacturers, always pairing European quality with American preferences. In the beginning of the '90s, I bought out my two partners. One of them remained a cabinetmaker, but the other became a winemaker. Today, Laguna Tools boasts 35 employees handling at least 60 different machines, and many more accessories.

"Because this company is owned and run by a woodworker, we've always had our fellow woodworkers in mind. As a result, Laguna has developed a reputation of both high quality and high prices. We sell a full line of woodworking tools, including table saws, jointers, planers, sanders, boring machines, shapers, lathes and even workbenches and dust collection equipment. In short, we've become a full-scale supplier of woodworking machinery.

"It's quite possible, though, that your readership knows us as the company who introduced the European combination machine to North America. They may also see us as the people who took band saws to another level with saws that cut smoother, straighter and with more resaw capacity. That was intentional. We want people to do their ripping on the band saw. It is a lot safer, has no kickback, eats less kerf, creates less dust and uses less power. It is simply not as intimidating."

Now, with the addition of an Asian line, Laguna not only covers all the bases as far as machinery is concerned, but spans a wider price range as well. Still, for Torben it is all about the quality, irrelevant of the cost.
 
"No matter what the price," Torben insisted, "we make sure you get a lot of value for the money."

That, in a nutshell, is what Laguna has been about since the beginning.

Unimat: "Honest, Honey, I Bought It for the Kids."

Let's face it. All parents and grandparents know this simple truth: the best toys to buy for kids are the ones you want to play with after they are asleep. With that in mind, you can stop shopping right now ,because I have found the ultimate gift. Meet Unimat, the serious tool that masquerades as a toy. 

To get a good handle on exactly what Unimat is, I spoke with Brian and Anne Brown, owners of S.T.A, Inc, the North American distributor for Cool Tool, the Austrian company that makes Unimat. Naturally, the first thing I asked was what S.T.A. stood for. "It stands for Scuba Training Academy," they explained. "Originally, we taught scuba diving. The name came from our former company." 

With that cleared up, I asked them to explain exactly what Unimat is, and whether it is a tool or a toy. I did this knowing full well that to most of us woodworkers, those two terms are somewhat interchangeable. "Without question," they answered, "it's a tool. More specifically, it is a convertible multi-tool that is both highly accurate and versatile. However, thanks to its tabletop size and certain safety features, some models are appropriate, and inexpensive enough, for children.

"Simply put, Unimat is a kit that contains beds, ways, motors, heads and holders, all of which can be assembled in a number of ways, and all of which can be upgraded to some degree. The ways are made of extruded aluminum and high impact plastic, making them light, strong and versatile. The heart of the system is a special connector which locks the parts together. All of the bases are four-sided extruded tracks joined by the connector which lets you slide, turn or move everything in a wide range of configurations.

"While all kits can be upgraded, each starts with a variety of tool capabilities. At the bottom end in price is the Playmat, which is aimed at children and sells for 100 Euros, or about $135. The kit makes a drill press, lathe, table jigsaw and sander. The jigsaw is particularly appealing because it will cut wood, plastic and thin aluminum, but not flesh. That's because the stroke is very small, and that makes it perfect for children. At shows, we put our fingers right up against the running blade to show parents that it won't cut flesh. Last year, we had our three-year-old nephew cutting on the jigsaw at the hobby show."

Power is supplied by a six-volt transformer, which, according to the Browns, saves hydro, the Canadian term for electricity. It is geared toward kids six and up and comes complete with plywood, round stock for turning, a manual, a maintenance kit and everything you need to get started.

"One step above that, at 200 Euros, is the Basic," Brian explained, "which converts to a jigsaw, lathe, mounted or handheld sander, and handheld drill. It sports a 12-volt transformer that powers a 12 thousand rpm motor that can be geared down to slower speeds for the lathe and drill. You can also reverse the motor direction. The lathe bed can be expanded with optional accessories to handle up to three-foot-long, six-inch-diameter stock. The kit comes with everything you need to get started, including a woodturning gouge, screwdriver for assembly and even a pair of safety goggles. You can upgrade with a host of accessories, more transformersand even a more powerful drive for extra oomph.

"Next comes the Classic, which you can create from a Basic with an upgrade kit if you prefer. It has six tools: a jigsaw, a wood lathe, a metal lathe with a three-jaw chuck, a drill press, a milling and boring machine, and a sander. The drill and sander can be removed and used as handheld tools as well. Like all metal lathes and mills, it has a cross slide. With various accessories, you can take this machine all the way up to a six-axis mill. Not surprisingly, the Classic is our biggest seller in the U.S., especially among hobby builders. The only limit is that we don't recommend it for steel, mostly because it cuts steel too slowly. However, in addition to wood, it handles nonferrous metals, soft stone and plastics with ease and accuracy.

"Powerline, the next step up, is really more an accessories package to the Classic than a kit in and of itself, and starts with a 12-volt, five-amp power drive unit that puts out 66 watts of power, making it about twice the power of the Classic. It is also twice the size in terms of table and work size, and we usually use it with more than one transformer, though technically one will run it.

"This one has a circular saw and a router table in addition to all the features of the Classic, and looks much more like what we are used to seeing as a full-size convertible tool. Even at that, it is still a tabletop machine and, like all the others, breaks down small enough to fit in a briefcase. Because they use DC power, the tools are all very quiet when running, making them the ultimate apartment tools.

"Rounding out the line is Styro-Cut 3D, a hot wire tool that cuts Styrofoam and similar synthetic materials. Styro-Cut 3D uses a common steel wire heated to 850 degrees Celsius. The steel wire is economical, has a very long life, and can be formed into any shape, allowing it to cut any profile. A lot of woodworkers use it to prototype in foam what will eventually be wood parts."

Although it was new to me, Unimat has actually been around for 40 years. "Originally, the company made metal lathes," Brian explained, "but 25 years ago, the current owner switched the company over to make modular systems. New parts and accessories keep coming out every year, so the machines are constantly evolving. Even though it is imported, I check every tool before it gets shipped to make sure everything works, and everything that is supposed to be there is in there. There is a five-year warranty on everything except Playmat, which has a two-year warranty."

Brian came into this as a second career after retiring from Bell Telephone. "I had always been a hobby woodworker, and this was a natural," he told me. "When I first saw it, the size threw me and I thought it was not a serious wood lathe, but once I started using it, I was impressed with what it would do. I find myself using it to make things like brass cannons, wood projects, acrylic pieces and just about anything else.

"We stock everything in-house and have a one-day turnaround. With all the accessories, we stock some 99 different items. At present, there is no shopping cart system on the web site; instead, we sell over the phone or via email. We prefer talking to customers to make sure they get exactly what they need. If they request it, I put potential customers in touch with current owners in their area, and send out a free DVD, but the Austrian web site also has streaming video of all the products in use." 

"Don't be fooled by the size of the tool," Anne continued. "You really do have to see the tools in action to appreciate their capabilities. The small size tends to be misleading until you actually get your hands on it; then you come away impressed."

For Anne, perhaps the best thing Unimat can do is for the next generation of woodworkers. "High school woodshops are disappearing fast," she pointed out. "These kits are a great teaching tool to replace them, and we'd love to see schools picking up on that."

Perhaps Unimat can help reverse what we all see as a disappointing trend. 

Jet Tools: Spicing up the Holidays with Great Tool Innovations

JET Tools is at it again. They are heading into tool gift season with a spate of new offerings and a host of improvements on their already impressive line of power tools. Included in the "new and improved" category are a cleverly designed planer jointer combo; a new category of table saw that offers the advantages of a cabinet saw with the low price and easy transport of a contractor saw; helical replacement cutter heads for their jointers and planers; and their newest cabinet saw incarnation, the Deluxe Xacta Saw.

For the cook's tour of the Xacta Saw, head over to the Tool Preview section of this issue, but for the rest, stay right where you are. We're about to get a guided tour of what's new, courtesy of JET's director of product management, Patrick Curry.

Planer jointer combo

"Imagine a 12-inch jointer and a 12-inch planer all in one convenient, convertible tool that switches back and forth in under two minutes," Curry began. I don't know about you, but that certainly sounded intriguing to me, so I asked him to tell me more.

"We start with a full 12-inch jointer with a three-blade head and a 56-inch long bed. Rather than an old style 'pork chop' guard, this tool sports a telescoping guard that lets you keep the blade covered even if you are just edge planing. The whole guard not only goes in and out all the way to the fence, but also goes up and down. That means it will ride over a flat board so that the blade is still covered even after the cut is done. When it is time to change the blade, you can rotate the whole thing out of the way.

"Once the jointing is done, release two levers and lift the table out of the way on its hinges. It's easier than it sounds, in part because the hinges are spring-loaded and take up much of the weight. Once the jointer bed is up, it will lock in place so it won't fall on you.

"Next, grasp the standard four -nch dust port, pull the release pin and lift. It will rotate 180 degrees and lock into position for planing. Now you have a 12-inch planer. Engage the feed roller lever, crank the big hand wheel to adjust the table height, and slide in the board. It's that quick and easy.

"One of the advantages of this tool over the typical lunchbox planer is that the bed moves up and down. That means the head, infeed roller and outfeed roller never move, which helps them stay in adjustment. Under the hood is a three horsepower, single-phase, 230-volt motor powering the cutter head. It drives the cutter head at 5,500 rpm with a feed rate of 20 feet per minute."

ProShop Table Saw 

"Another new entry into our line is the ProShop table saw," Curry continued. "It's priced like a contractor's saw at 600 to 700 dollars, but it looks more like a hybrid saw. The motor is completely enclosed in the cabinet, and it boasts improved dust collection and a standard dust port. In spite of its size, it is fitted with substantial contractor style trunnions and guts. In that respect, it is more like a traditional cabinet saw but with the transport convenience of a contractor's saw.

"One of its slickest features shows up as a discreet yellow dot set flush into the top. When it is time to change the blade, raise the arbor all the way up and the yellow dot raises up into a button. Push on it, and it locks the arbor to allow you to change blades with one wrench and without having to jam wood into the saw teeth.

"Like a cabinet saw, it has a one-piece trunnion, but because the motor is tucked away inside the case instead of sticking out the back as in a normal contractor saw, it relies on a two-belt drive. One belt goes from the motor to a countershaft and a second from the countershaft to the arbor. That second belt is a poly-V belt designed to offer smoother operation and greater transfer of power.

"All that allows us to collapse the saw so it takes up less room, and permits us to use a cabinet saw type trunnion. Unlike a contractor saw, the arbor moves, but the motor does not. The net result is a machine that not only takes up less space, but runs smoother and quieter with far less vibration than a contractor's saw. Fixing the motor allows us to beef it up as well. We added a one and three quarter horsepower motor, the largest we could use that still plugs into a standard 110-volt power outlet.

"While the saw does stand on legs, the cabinet itself is completely enclosed so dust is contained and evacuated instead of dropping on the floor. There's an access door with a built -n dust port to let you get in if you drop your arbor nut. No dust collection available? Don't worry; you can also run the saw with the door off, and the angled sheet metal floor of the cabinet will let the swarf slide out the back.

"On the front is a large paddle style off switch that you can hit with your knee to shut down the saw even if your hands are busy. The fence sports extruded aluminum faces with a top T-slot to accept a variety of T-nut based jigs, fixtures, feather boards and hold-downs." 

Helical Jointer and Planer Heads

Perhaps you already have a planer, a jointer and the saw of your dreams. If so, you might be ready for the ultimate jointer and planer upgrade: a helical head with insert tooling.

"Although it is not yet available on the combination jointer planer," Curry told me, "you can now get a helical head on JET's six-inch and eight-inch jointers, and on the 15- and 20-inch planers.

"A straight knife cuts in a chopping motion," he explained, "but a helical head shears the wood off. That makes for quieter, smoother cutting with less tearout, even on problem and figured woods. The inserts are carbide rather than high speed steel so they stay sharp longer, and each insert is four-sided. That means when it is time to 'sharpen' the blade, all you need do is loosen the set screw and rotate the cutter insert 90 degrees. You'll have four changes of tooling before you have to replace the cutters.

"There are 27 inserts in the cutter head of a six-inch jointer, and 36 on the eight. The same head design is available on a 15-inch planer, with 68 inserts, and the 20-inch with 92 inserts.
Each insert costs six dollars but has four lives. To top it off, the carbide will last two to three times longer than high speed steel so you don't need to 'sharpen' as often. That means one set of inserts is equivalent not to four sharpening rotations of a typical steel knife, but closer to 12. That comes out to about 12 dollars per sharpening." 

The less obvious advantage is the time savings. When you do replace cutters, it involves nothing more than removing one and popping in a new one. Each insert automatically seats itself in the perfect position so that you don't have to mess with setting the cutter heights. Even if the price advantage doesn't sway you, you'll have to admit that rotating a tooth, or even swapping one out with a replacement, is vastly quicker and less aggravating than sending the blades out for sharpening and tediously re-setting the blades.

All this improvement feeds nicely into the goals Curry described for the company and its products. "JET will be the best value product you can find," he insisted. "You'll get the best quality, the best fit and finish, and all the features you need at a very good price. That, to us, is good value." 

North House Folk School: Where Wood Meets Folkehøjskole

There are dozens of woodworking schools where you can go to learn furniture making, turning and even carving, so it is quite refreshing to find one that stands out from that crowd. The North House Folk School, tucked away on the shores of Lake Superior in tiny Grand Marais, Minnesota, does just that with a unique approach that can be summed up in one word: folkehojskole.

"The type of learning that is emphasized here is inspired by the Scandinavian folkehøjskole," explained Scott Pollock, the school's Program Director, "where learning is valued for its own sake. Though students sign up for a project, they walk away with an experience far greater than any product can offer. It is about meeting other people and exploring and sharing stories. Of course, a lot of the classes we offer are eminently practical, but this is not a trade school. Our intention is to enrich lives and build community.

"The school was founded 10 years ago by a number of people, including Mark Hansen, a boat builder by hobby and social service worker by vocation. When he was in his 30s, he took a trip to Norway and visited some folk schools in isolated areas. Those schools focussed on boat building, but what fascinated him most was that people of all skill levels were able to feel successful at craft.

"With that goal in mind, once back home, he started offering a three-week class on Inuit kayak building and was delighted to find that it drew people ranging in age from 13 to 62. That made him realize his course was bringing diverse people together for a long period; eating together, communicating and sharing. He wanted to do the same thing with other courses, and realized that beyond the benefits to the students, it would also be a boon to the town. Grand Marais, Minnesota is a small city located on the edge of a wilderness area adjacent to Lake Superior, and has only 500 inhabitants. Thanks to its locale, it was already a tourist destination.

"Mark got together with a number of other local crafts people including timber framers and boat builders, and put together a course catalog," Scott recounted. "They talked the city of Grand Marais into leasing them an unused waterfront property with a number of old timber garages, which they converted to classrooms. One reason the city was so quick to support the school is because it is an educational nonprofit.

"The campus is small: only 250 feet by 250 feet, but it is packed with three major buildings and a blacksmith shop. We have no housing or food on campus, but because of our location, everything students need is within walking distance. Fortunately, the campus is situated next to a public campground, so people can come for a course and stay close by.

"Our tradition is teaching Northern crafts: everything from North American Inuit and Ojibwe to Scandinavian and Northern European. In short, anything from the northern hemisphere. We define North House as an educational organization that focuses on that northern tradition.

"There's a good reason behind that. A lot of craft has traditionally been based on what materials have been at hand. Thus, regional craft work is related to what species were available, both in wood and fiber, as well as to the culture of the people who settled the area. The flat-bottom skiff, for example, a boat common in North America, has ties to the Norwegian pram. That shows both a cultural history and material practicality. Birch skis, which are endemic to Minnesota and are taught here, have their roots in Finland.

"We teach 1,300 students per year from all over North America in 250 different courses spread out over 17 disciplines. Courses range from outdoor skills, like sailing, homesteading and use of solar power, to food, music and fiber arts. Our wood-related courses cover timber framing, boat building, tool making, wood carving, woodworking and traditional crafts, a catchall for those skills that don't fit into any other specific pigeonhole.

"The most popular arena is outdoor skills, but woodcarving is a close second. We cover the Scandinavian tradition of green wood carving, including making spoons, ale hand bowls, dragon and acanthus leaf carving, and flat plane people carving.

"Bowl and spoon carving starts with a fresh green log, often birch. The logs are halved and gouged out with an axe, a knife and a hook tool. The Norwegian ale bowl, another offered course, is turned on a foot-powered lathe, but instead of conventional lathe tools, cutting is done with a hook tool. The Scandinavian bowl tradition eschews the lathe, and instead uses an adze to hand hew the bowl while it is held on a carving bench. Spoons, too, start with an axe to split out the log, but most everything else is cut with a gouge and a knife.

"Our Viking Dragon Relief Carving class teaches a style often seen in Norway's wooden Stave churches from the 13th century. Woven through the carvings are pre-Christian images, like dragons. Flat Plane Figure Carving is a folk art style that creates tiny figures about four inches tall made of wood scraps. It is all done with one knife, usually homemade, similar in size to a chip carving knife, though slightly different.

 "One of the most unusual and interesting woodworking skills we teach is Spån Fågel, pronounced shpahn fahgle, which means 'shaving bird.' Though it is hard to believe, this delicate bird, with its wide fan of many feathers, is all carved from one piece of wood with one knife. The feathers are not separated, but all cut from a single block of green wood and fanned out without ever being detached from the piece of wood. It is believed that this carving technique originally comes from Russia and Finland. Our course is taught by Del Stubbs, a man more famous perhaps for turning. He picked up the skill during his travels throughout various folk schools in Scandinavia.

"When it comes to woodworking, we teach practical skills. Course listings include classes on making furniture, workbenches and a spring pole lathe. There's even a course called Bury Yourself in Your Work, where students make a coffin.

"As part of the educational offering, we recently put out our first book, called Celebrating Birch, The Lore, Art and Craft of an Ancient Tree. There are 20 objects to create, including a basket, a carved box and step-by-step instructions on carving a wooden spoon. The book also delves into the history and origins of the school itself and some of the areas it teaches. In addition, it talks about birch craft, from the biology and ecology of the tree down to its usage."

Speaking with Scott, the one thing that came through most clearly was his belief that these are skills anyone can learn. The school clearly emphasizes enjoyment and accessibility to the various crafts rather than an elite adoration of the end product. Scott summed it up nicely by sharing a sentiment from a fellow faculty member. "One of our teachers is fond of saying 'Anything worth doing is worth doing poorly.' What he means by that," Scott explained, "is that craft is for everyone. When it comes right down to it, all of us started learning at the bottom."

The Woodworking Shows: The Phoenix up from the Ashes


It's been a bit of a rough ride lately for The Woodworking Shows, by far the largest and most well known touring show catering to hobby and small shop woodworkers. As you may have heard, TWS, as the show is typically called, is under new management, changing hands only after first being put up for sale in a deal that fell through at the last minute. It was all a bit confusing, but now that the dust has cleared, the show has emerged with brand new owners infused with the energy and excitement that comes from the challenge of creating something better.

To appreciate where TWS is now, a bit of history is in order. It all started with Art Schwartz, whose management company ran the AWFS show. Art grew the once small show into a major biannual woodworking industry event. Then about 25 years ago, he decided there needed to be a show that traveled to local markets all over the country and was aimed not at industry, but at hobby and small woodworkers. To that end, he created TWS, lacing it with a mixture of exhibitors and educational opportunities.



His assistant, Irene Divine, bought the shows from Art in the mid-1990's. Prior to that she had been a school teacher, and was a very astute business woman. She managed the show from top to bottom and had her hands in everything. Sadly, as the shows grew, the stress of it wore her down.

About seven years ago, she retired and sold the shows to her salesman, Todd Rosholdt. Todd bought the show with money from a group of backing investors called the Rocky Mountain Capital Group, and ran it for three years. At that point the investors, unhappy with monetary returns, took over the company and Todd was asked to leave. After briefly trying to run it themselves, they put the show up for sale.

American Woodworker
magazine, which itself had recently been bought from Readers Digest by the former owner of Popular Woodworking magazine, approached the group about buying the shows, but ended up walking away from the deal. That left everyone high and dry, since Rocky Mountain had already stopped putting effort into the show. By the summer of 2007, ownership was in question and the staff was without direction. As a result, when September rolled around, nothing remained of the show but a schedule and a few contracts for venues. That meant a lot of small independent companies might be out of work if someone did not step up and take over the shows.

That's where Joe and Ann Strong, the owners of Bad Dog Tools, entered the picture. I spoke with these long-time exhibitors who are two of the five new owners. They explained why they made the plunge into TWS, and what we can expect in the future.

"For almost twenty years we've been exhibiting at TWS," Joe and Ann explained, "so we know everyone on the floor, and know who likes to come to the show and what they want from it. We feel we know what both exhibitors and attendees are looking for when they come to a woodworking show. In addition, we exhibit in some 250 shows per year, including auto, building, and other trade shows as well as woodworking shows, so we have broad experience in the field.



"Rather than let it collapse, we stepped in and bought TWS on September 4th, 2007, along with Bill and Mickey Thompson, and Bryan Joachim. Our company, Bad Dog Tools, primarily sells drill bits and cutters. Bill and Mickey own Woodline USA, which sells primarily router bits and is another long-time exhibitor at these shows. Bryan owns a company called Nantucket Sheds which designs and builds custom wood sheds. The five of us formed a company called Straightline Productions to run the shows, and started over with a clean slate.

"Admittedly, there was some altruism in our decision. Because we do such a small portion of our total business at the TWS shows, it was not particularly in our self-interest. Our initial goal was to try to put together a much larger group of the frequent exhibitors to buy it to keep the show going, but it ended up with just us. Because we are on the show floor with them, our exhibitors know that we are in the same boat and care about it in the same way.

"Of course, we would like to see the shows be successful by themselves. However, Bad Dog and Woodline are both fairly substantial companies on their own, and neither of the two companies need to derive an income from TWS. That gives us the freedom to concentrate on making the shows better. The money from them can all go back into improving the shows rather than paying off investors or high priced employees. We all have staff that can chip in to do some of the work, but we also hired three new office people just to focus on TWS.

"At present, we are doing 25 shows per year, and we try to combine both education, over 90 percent of which is free, with a strongly represented sales floor. We feel you need both. Because we have so many shows and a large attendance, we are the only ones able to draw the larger exhibitors." 

I asked Joe and Ann what changes we can expect to see to the show itself, and was delighted with the answer. "The whole look of the show will change," they insisted. "You'll see a lot more education on the floor. When you walk in the door you will be given a set of free plans. A free seminar teaching you to build the item in the plans will be running throughout the day, and everything you need to build it will be available on the show floor. We're also going to focus more on hand tool demonstrations. That's something that seems to be gaining in popularity. To top it off, one lucky attendee with win a pickup truck full of tools.

"As part of our education goals, we give guilds, clubs and colleges free booths. We're also starting a series of free 15-minute workshops geared to the novice woodworker called 'Strolling Seminars.' Taught by local clubs and guilds, they will cover topics like wood identification, scroll saw basics and 'what can I make with wood turning.' It's quick, painless, and allows people to still have time to do the other things for which they come to the show. There are also free classes on finishing, cabinet making, band saw use, and other subjects taught by a variety of experts in the field. Some, like long-time lecturer and demonstrator Mark Hensley, are not only teachers, but entertainers who keep their audiences laughing while they learn.



"In order that both exhibitors and attendees to have a good show, we want to get the attendance back to where it once was. That means 8,000 attendees per show and some big name woodworkers in attendance as well. That's something you won't see anywhere else."

All that led me to ask the big question. In this Internet age, does it really make sense to mount a hands-on woodworking show? 

"You can download music on the Internet," Joe and Ann pointed out by way of example, "but it is not the same as going to a live concert. We really want people to come away saying 'I just went to TWS and it was great!' We want them to walk in the door, have a really good experience, and leave thinking 'I can't wait until next year.' When you start having big, happy crowds, that's when it starts to make sense." 

GRR-Ripper: The 'Ne Plus Ultra' of Push Sticks

Gazing at the shingle cutting machine at the Washington State History museum is enough to give a modern woodworker chills. Shingle weavers, as they were called, pushed blocks of cedar through a large, unguarded saw blade with hands perilously close to the teeth. Lost fingers, and worse injuries, were common. With that in mind, it's not hard to imagine a worker deciding it was safer to push with wood scraps, and thus creating a primitive push stick.

We're a lot luckier today. The push stick, an absolute must-have safety item for the table saw, has come a long way. Each new generation of tinkers refines it further, but I think I have finally seen the state-of-the-art. That conviction came after watching a demonstration of the Microjig GRR-Ripper. As is often the case, this amazingly versatile improvement on the push stick grew out of frustration.

"For about five years, I was an importer and exporter of tropical fish," explained Henry Wang, the GRR-Ripper's inventor, "then spent 10 years running restaurants. That business involves a lot of renovation, which in turn involves a lot of woodworking. Having counted woodworking as my hobby for some two decades, I did much of the work myself.

"Around 1999, I found myself having to cut and glue a lot of very narrow strips for laminated cutting and chopping boards. For safety, I would only cut them from the offcut side, which means you must move the fence and recalculate for each cut. By the time you get the board down to about four inches, it is too narrow to cut safely with typical push blocks. That was wasting material. Like many woodworkers, I was always seeking jigs and methods to build things easier and quicker, so to solve that problem, I came up with what would eventually become the GRR-Ripper.

"As I got older, the hours in the restaurant business started to wear on me. I wanted to cut back but also wanted to spend more time doing woodworking. I felt the GRR-Ripper was marketable, so I left the restaurant business in 1999 to devote my time to develop it. I made about 45 different prototypes over the next two years before coming up with the model you see today. Since then, I have added more components that let it do even more and give it even more versatility. Our DVD shows more than 30 different applications for it, and there are still more. 

"In a nutshell, the GRR-Ripper is an adjustable push block that holds the wood on both sides of the blade. That not only gives you total control of forward motion, but also allows you to safely keep the stock against the fence. Moreover, it protects your hands by completely covering the blade. The original has an adjustable handle so you can secure it directly over the cut line, the ideal spot for it. An optional MJ Handle Bridge gives you four-point contact and allows you to cant the handle at an angle, which makes it even easier to keep pressure against the fence.

"My intention in designing it was to solve the problems inherent in existing push sticks. For instance, a narrow push stick that hooks to the back of the board gives you no control in keeping the wood against the fence. Sometimes those thin push sticks even push the back corner of the wood toward the fence, making the front corner head out toward the back of the blade. That's a recipe for kickback. The other problem with hooking push sticks is that they don't work with stock that extends off the front of the table. On the other hand, most push blocks that are wide enough to offer control of the wood are designed to go between the fence and the blade, but that limits you in width.

"The GRR-Ripper solves all those problems. It is designed with a flat side that rides along the fence, keeping the push stick itself moving in a straight line. The bottom is covered with non-slip sticky material to hold the wood securely without leaving residue. Once you grab the wood with the GRR-Ripper, you can keep it properly oriented and going in a straight line relative to the fence and the blade. Two long feet on the bottom straddle the blade so that the wood is both held and pushed securely on both sides of the blade. Because the gripper is rigid and the feet grab the wood, there's no chance of either side of the wood slipping or tipping into the back of the blade.

"In essence, it applies pressure in three directions to the wood on both sides of the blade: forward pressure, downward or hold-down pressure and pressure to keep the board against the fence. As you use it, the blade passes through a tunnel under the GRR-Ripper, making it a sort of blade guard that travels with your hand. In a sense, it does everything your hands do without letting them get to the blade, but because it controls both sides, there is no need to use either hand to push stock or guide the wood. Thus, you have complete control and total safety, but there's more.

"Look at the GRR-Ripper and you will see three legs, all different widths. All three legs are removable, and both the handle and center leg are adjustable. One side has a quarter-inch leg, which lets you rip down to a quarter inch wide without damaging the unit. The other side is a half-inch leg, and the center one is one inch wide. The center leg slides back and forth between the other two legs to provide complete support while still missing the blade no matter what the width of the cut. The handle moves the same way, so your pressure is always where you want it.

"The GRR-Ripper itself is three and five-eighths of an inch wide, so the only problem you can run across is if you have to make a three-and-a-half-inch cut. To solve that problem, you can add a spacer to the side, or remove one leg to give it a two-legged stance. Furthermore, you can use it for both routing and sawing operations in a host of different configurations. When routing, you can even prevent the wood from moving into the outfeed fence at the end of a cut; the gripper keeps the wood in its original position from the start of the cut because it rides against the fence instead of the wood having to do so.

"Because it is so secure, you can even cut wood that is not against the fence.
Because the GRR-Ripper holds the wood, and because one side is square and flat to travel along the fence, the board itself does not have to be against the fence. Thus, you could cut a freehand taper safely without a taper jig. You can even safely cut a straight edge on stock with two irregular edges. It will do bevel cuts using two hands, cut veneer at an angle, or make repeat crosscuts, all safely and with no other jigs. Since both pieces of the wood are being held, neither side can fly up in kickback."

While it is certainly the headliner on the Micro Jig website, the GRR-Ripper is not Henry's only product. He also offers the pop-in, pop-out MJ Splitter, a small splitter that sits securely behind the blade. "The holes in which the splitter sits are accurately drilled into a zero-clearance throat plate using a supplied hole drilling guide," Henry explained. "The splitter kit comes with the guide, a sized drill bit and two polycarbonate splitters.

"Each splitter is two-sided. The plus sign on one side indicates a three-thousandths offset. By flipping the splitter over, you can tighten up the gap between board and fence by three thousands of an inch. That makes the splitter act like a gentle featherboard rubbing against the side of the new cut and helps the stock stay against the fence on the far side of the cut. Other splitters have six- and nine-thousandths offsets, should you need it."

Finding one won't be difficult, since for years the GRR-Ripper has been the number one seller at many woodworking shows, and is available at most woodworking specialty stores. Many also carry the MJ Splitter system as well.

There is one thing I must warn you about, though. When you get the GRR-Ripper, you must assemble it yourself. That's intentional. "I want the user to understand completely how this tool works," Henry insists, "and assembling it is the best way to do that. We do make it easy, though. For example, to make certain that you don't lose screws when assembling or changing configuration, the screws are held in place by tiny O-rings.

"The bottom line is that I truly hope all my customers enjoy woodworking, but to do that, you must stay safe. The whole point of the GRR-Ripper is to make woodworking more enjoyable not only by helping you work safer, but by making your cuts cleaner and more accurate as well."
 

Microplane: A Sharper Way to Shape Wood


What happens when a business owner with a very fertile imagination and a penchant for woodworking starts tinkering with some dangerously sharp metal parts? Apparently, you get Microplane, what many regard as the greatest improvement ever made to the venerable wood rasp. The unlikely story of how this unique tool came about begins with a family-owned company making parts for printers.

"Grace Manufacturing, a chemical etching company, was founded by Richard Grace and his father in 1965," recounted Melissa Moore, the public relations and marketing coordinator for Microplane. "Richard's younger brother Jeff joined the family-owned company later.

"Chemical etching is a process that uses acids to cut metal in a very controlled manner. Initially, they made print bands for dot matrix printers: long, wide bands of sheet metal that have little chemically etched voids. Through the years, they learned a lot about making very precise cuts in all sorts of thin metal, including stainless steel.

"One thing they learned was that not only were the edges they created precise, they were also sharp. In fact, people were always getting cut handling parts. Stainless steel is one of those materials that is notoriously difficult to machine and sharpen, but Grace's patented process allowed them to make extremely sharp edges in it." 

"With sharp components sitting around," continued Katie McIntosh, another member of the marketing department, "Richard and Jeff started to wonder what would happen if they made something specifically intended for cutting. Richard was a woodworker by hobby, and naturally what came to mind for him was a woodworking tool.

"They started by etching a series of holes into a metal sheet. Richard was quick to try it on all the desks, using it to file away the edges. The first thing they noticed was that their process created edges that slice cleanly rather than tearing the way normal rasp teeth do. The second was that they would cut wood in any direction regardless of grain orientation. It was obviously an idea worth pursuing.

"The first iteration of  this sharp, clean cutting plate was to retrofit it to a hacksaw frame, turning it into a wood cutting and shaping tool. Soon after came Microplane shaving rasps, which took the same basic variety of cutter and affixed a permanent handle reminiscent of a more traditional rasp. Next came replacement blades for the ubiquitous Surform planes, providing a much sharper replacement plate for this easy to use block plane substitute.

"Snap-in rasps were next. They allowed six different blades to fit into one handle, making a very versatile tool that is easy to carry and takes up very little space. It also means you can have more tools for less money. Because you can fit the blade in either direction, you can make this either a push- or pull-stroke tool.

"About that same time, we came out with rotary shapers in two diameters, meant to replace drum sanders. Fine edges cut the wood as the fine wood shavings are pushed out through the larger holes. The top and bottom sport a fan system to help evacuate the shavings. There's also an available rotary shaper follower kit that turns the drum into a pattern cutting tool.

"Most recently, Richard came out with stainless steel sanding disks. He was looking for an alternative to sandpaper disks and came up with one that would cut faster and cleaner, and would last longer. Perhaps most importantly, though, is that it creates shavings instead of annoying and dangerous sanding dust. The way he designed them was a bit odd. He was getting his tires rotated one day and looking at the shapes of some fancy slotted rims. That gave him the idea for the patterns on the slotted sanding disks. We started selling them with hook and loop backings in five-inch disks for both five- and eight-hole pads, and they soon became our best-selling product.

"That's just in woodworking. Microplane has since moved into the kitchen and bathroom as well. Our biggest division, generating over 60 percent of sales, is kitchen tools. Graters for a variety of foods, from nutmeg and hard cheese to lemon zest and chocolate, are essentially modified Microplane tools.

"Moving from the woodshop to the kitchen came about thanks to feedback from one of our customers. The wife of one of our vendors borrowed one of his Microplanes to grate some orange rind. It worked so well that the next day, he repositioned it in his catalog into the kitchen products, and sales took off. Once he told us, we started marketing it as a kitchen tool, changing the cutter orientation to a pull stroke, which seemed both safer and more ergonomic to us. It also helps us differentiate them from the woodworking line. That's important, because the kitchen tools are made of different steels to be lighter, dishwasher safe and with blades designed more specifically for the jobs done in the kitchen.

"Other Microplane fans told us about even more creative uses. One customer told us he uses it to trim the hooves of his goats. Others use them to cut horse hooves, racecar tires, Bondo® on car bodies, surfboards, boats and clay, to name a few. They will cut wood, plastics, composition materials, sheet rock and even nonferrous metals.

"Perhaps the strangest use reported to us was one that was to spawn a whole new line. Several people called to tell us they were using our kitchen tools to remove calluses on their feet. As a consequence, we developed tools just for that, and in 2004 we came out with our line of foot care products."
 
Even today, all their products are made in their factory in Russellville, Arkansas. The kitchen tools are just about ubiquitous, showing up in almost any store that sells kitchen gear. Microplane woodworking tools are sold through most woodworking specialty stores, but also direct from their web site. You're also likely to see them both being demonstrated and sold at woodworking shows.

While the invention of Microplane was more or less serendipitous, there's nothing accidental about their approach to both developing and maintaining tools that stand out from the norm.

"We don't just put out product to put it out there," insists Melissa. "It's got to be something unique and innovative. We try to constantly listen to our customers to see how we can bring something different to the market, and because of that, we expect to continue to develop outstanding new products."

Quality VAKuum Products: Superior Clamps That, Well… Suck

The myriad of clamps we all own work quite nicely for most simple assembly tasks. Two jobs, though, present a consistent challenge: veneering and holding parts for machining. Veneering a large area requires getting uniform pressure over the entire surface, a challenge for flat panels and a near nightmare for contoured ones. When holding parts for machining, no matter how you approach it, the clamps seem to get in the way. Far and away, the best solution for both these troublesome clamping chores is to use vacuum.

As a result, both vacuum bag pressing and vacuum parts holding have been growing in popularity for small shops and hobby woodworkers. For the past two decades, Ed Ferri has been instrumental in driving that trend. His company, Quality VAKuum Products, was formed specifically to serve our needs, and for many of us who rely on vacuum for shop tasks, he's been a real lifesaver. When I spoke with him about the history of his company, I was astonished to discover that yours truly was an unintentional catalyst for the formation of his company. I'll let him tell you about it.

"I started Quality VAKuum Products in 1991." Ed recounted. "At the time, I was working as sales manager for my brother, who owns a company that makes venturis for big industry. You wrote an article on them in a major woodworking magazine around 1987. As a result of that article, we sold hundreds of manual venturis to a whole new market: the woodworking industry.

"I had been an engineer for most of my life before going into sales, but always wanted my own company. I talked to my brother about expanding his business to accommodate woodworkers, but he felt it was too small a niche market. I decided to start my own company, and QVP was born.

"It started in my basement and grew. Today, I employ four people full-time, and often have extra part-time people to replenish inventory. That's because 99 percent of our products ship the day they are ordered, so at times a single big order can deplete our stock. All our venturi vacuum pumps are manufactured right here in Concord, Massachusetts. We make vacuum bag systems for pressing and clamping, and systems for holding parts.

"One the most common woodworking applications is vacuum bag pressing, used mostly for lamination. You get even and uniform pressure all over, and therefore get a good pressing every time when veneering. Basically, you start with a sealable vinyl or polyurethane bag, put your laminates into the bag, and turn it on. The bag compresses around the parts to apply even and uniform pressure in all directions wherever the bag makes contact. At the same time, the vacuum draws out air from the pores of the wood, giving you deeper penetration of the glue, and removes moisture more quickly to allow waterbased glue to set up faster.

"Template routing is another big application for vacuum holding. Because a vacuum clamp holds parts only from one side and attaches and releases almost instantly, it is far better and faster than clamps, double-sided tape or screws. One customer bought a hundred dollar venturi, turned all his clamps from standard to vacuum, and dropped his working time for a particular operation from three weeks to three and a half days.

"Let's say you had to cut out 50 circles. With a vacuum clamp, you could hold the part down to a table and go all the way round the circle with a router without stopping or moving clamps. Or you could attach the part via one face only to a template, and move it and the part around a bearing-mounted router bit set into a router table. From a clamping point of view, it's faster, but more importantly, far safer than using mechanical clamps. I had a school system in Texas who bought one unit. They tested it and promptly bought 15 units, one for each shop in each school, and did it for safety reasons."

Once again, Ed brought up our mutual history. "Back around 1988, I visited your guitar shop," he reminded me. "One troublesome operation your people grappled with was holding guitar necks for shaping. The task involved cutting three of the four sides of a billet, and figuring out how to clamp them into a safe fixture was a challenge. You told me that once you switched from manual holding while shaping guitar necks to vacuum holding, you went from 20 percent loss to less than two percent loss."

He's right, but that was the least of it. What really inspired the change was a near accident. Back when we were still using a haphazard combination of end clamps and brads for gripping to the fixture, one of my employees was running a neck though the big five horsepower shaper. As often happened, it let go, but this time the neck shot like a missile, ending up impaled through the wall of the break room. We left it in the wall as a permanent safety reminder, but once we switched to vacuum holding, it never happened again. 

How vacuum clamping works

"The bottom line," Ed continued, "is that you can hold just about any shape item with vacuum, and use the same vacuum to clamp that in turn to a bench or work surface. Because there is so little space between the vacuum clamp, part and work surface, the clamping takes place instantly. Of course, you can make your own clamps and setups, so we sell individual parts, but we also try to sell complete systems that allow one-stop shopping."

The heart of the system, whether bag pressing or template holding, is a vacuum pump. QVP sells both electric and air-powered pumps, but Ed admits that the air pumps, which are simple venturi tubes, are far and away the industry favorite.

Click on this drawing of a venturi to enlarge
"A venturi is an air-powered vacuum pump," Ed explained. "One of the beauties of it is that it has no moving parts, therefore has ultimate reliability. Compressed air runs down the center of it. Inside, the air is allowed to expand in a controlled manner. As the compressed air expands, gaps form between the air molecules. More air flows in at 90 degrees to the airflow and gets entrained into the airflow. In other words, as you run compressed air through the tube, it creates a vacuum at 90 degrees to the air low direction. The beauty of it is that the whole venturi can be as small as a C size battery.

"Venturis are the most significant portion of the business. For every electric pump we sell, we sell four or five venturis. Electric pumps mostly go to those who don't have the compressed air capacity.

"We have venturis that draw two cubic feet (cfm) per minute at 85 pounds per square inch (psi) and can work off a small pancake compressor, and pumps that draw 20 cfm. They all develop the same vacuum; the only real difference is how fast it gets there. For example, a 5 cfm venturi will evacuate a four-by-eight bag with a flat panel in it in about a minute and a half. A two cfm would take almost four minutes. A 20 cfm will do it in about 20 seconds. The bottom line is that you can do the job with any size venturi pump; the real difference is all about speed.

"If you have a flat panel, speed doesn't matter, but if you have a complex shape in a large bag, or many laminates, time can be important. In that case, you would want a larger pump. The most common pump we sell is the five cfm unit. A manual venturi with a two- by four-foot bag starts at around $250 dollars, and more complex or larger automatic systems go up from there.

"Another good investment is an automatic controller, which lets the system use as little air as possible by shutting off the compressor once the vacuum is drawn. For example, a glue-up of a four-by-eight flat panel using urea glue might take about four hours to cure. Instead of the compressor running for four hours, an automatic system would have the compressor running only about one minute per hour of glue-up. Of course, you could also keep an eye on the gauge and constantly turn the compressor on and off as needed, but most serious woodworkers won't waste that time.

"We sell direct from our web site, and there are distributors around the country. However, because the parts are fairly small and are both safe and easy to ship, it makes a lot of sense to buy online. Personally, I like people to call on our 800 number and discuss their application. Then we can hone in very specifically on their needs, make a recommendation and give them a quote right there on the phone. That way they get everything they need and nothing extraneous. We have a huge product line, and we'll do custom or special orders, including any types of bags, frame presses and special venturi equipment.

"We also allow for future upgrades. If you start with a $250 manual unit, and decide you want to upgrade to an automatic unit, you can send it back and we will put the venturi into a larger unit, so you never lose your investment. In fact, you can upgrade repeatedly and indefinitely without ever losing your original investment. For those who need an introduction to the potential uses, there are dozens of pdf files with explanations of how the equipment works and the various things you can do with it on the instructions page of our web site.

"Both pro and hobby woodworkers will go out and spend a couple hundred dollars on a router," Ed pointed out, "yet they will often ignore something as simple as a vacuum press. Vacuum can add both beauty and safety to your efforts. It can take your woodworking to a higher level of quality and allow you to attempt things you would never try otherwise. From a woodworker's point of view, what could be better?"

Lignomat: Moisture Meters for the Masses

I still remember my first moisture meter. Twenty-five years ago. I bought a mini-Ligno handheld model for about a hundred dollars and immediately ran around sticking the pins into every piece of wood in grabbing distance. This, I concluded, is one of the coolest toys ever, and I could justify it because it actually performed a vital service: telling me when boards were dry enough for me to build with them.

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My original is long gone, but the E/D version I own now is more accurate, easier to use, and sells for about the same price as my original did. For that reason among others, Lignomat is regarded by many as the premier handheld moisture meter company in the U.S., and the darling of both professional and hobby woodworkers. In fact, they've been leading the field with their mini-Ligno almost since the handy devices first arrived on our shores.

In a sense, the American side of the Lignomat story starts with Robert Hildebrand. He owned an engineering company in Germany that made kilns and the control systems to go with them. His son-in-law and daughter, Ulrich and Grete Heimerdinger, came to the U.S. in 1975 in order to start a branch of the company here. While Ulrich concentrated on selling kiln control systems, Grete started her own company in 1981 offering the mini-Ligno.

"The inexpensive handheld moisture meter Grete chose to introduce was made by a German company called Lignomat," explained their daughter, Martina, the marketing manager for the family owned company. "That company was started about f45 years ago by Horst Klinkmueller. My mother started off with 100 mini-Lignos and began contacting people in the woodworking field to see if they needed a moisture meter. At the time, she knew little about woodworking, having been a math and physics teacher in Germany." 

"I started selling at woodworking shows," Grete recounted, taking over the story for her daughter, "and got a lot of interest immediately. That's because the mini-Ligno is affordable, durable, reliable and accurate. In fact, it was the first small, affordable, handheld moisture meter for woodworkers introduced to North America. Though we started with woodworking shows, these days we sell through woodworking stores like Rockler, through online venues like Amazon.com, and directly from our web site.

"When I first arrived here people would ask me 'why do I need a moisture meter?' I told them if the wood is not properly dried it will shrink, move or warp and may very well destroy what you build. The challenge of woodworking starts with choosing the right lumber. If the wood is not right, even the best tools and craftsmanship can't guarantee a quality product.

"Once we started selling the mini-Ligno, a ton of immediate positive feedback came in about the tool's efficacy, simplicity and durability. I feel very comfortable selling these and telling people it is a good product. It is accurate, keeps its calibration and is comfortable to use. Some people have even told me they never had to change the batteries in five years. In short, it is the ideal tool for hobby, small shop and professional woodworkers."

Once Grete realized what a good product it was, she went even further. "In 1985, we bought the rights to the mini-Ligno from the German company who made it," Grete explained, "and started assembling them here in Oregon using German-made parts. We're still a small, family-owned business, with everything assembled, sold and supported from one facility in Portland, Oregon. However, we sell all over. In fact, we now sell the mini-Ligno back to the German Lignomat company, who list it on their web site and sells it in Europe.

"We also offer more intricate meters in addition to the mini-Ligno, with more calibrations and a wide range of optional equipment for monitoring the lumber inside kilns and the kilns themselves. We sell both pin type, in which two tiny pins are stuck into the wood to read the moisture content, and pinless meters that do not make holes in the wood. There's even a model called the Versa-Tec which works as either a pinless or pin type.

"While pinless meters do not make holes in the wood, they are substantially more expensive and are generally a bit less accurate than pin type. That's because pin meters read water content directly by measuring electrical resistance, which varies depending on the moisture in the wood. Pinless meters measure electrical capacity, and it changes with the specific gravity of the wood. Granted, more moisture means a higher specific gravity, but it can also mean the wood is denser in that spot. Hence, with a pinless meter you can get a higher reading than the amount of moisture would warrant.

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"Naturally, pinless meters are better for reading finished pieces where you don't want damage in the form of two tiny holes, but that doesn't generally concern woodworkers. They read wood before they build, and use the meter in an area that will be cut or sanded away. When I say holes, we are talking about two holes under a millimeter in diameter, 25 millimeters apart and about five to 10 millimeters deep.

"For most hobby woodworkers, the mini-Ligno E/D model is the best entry-level moisture meter. It covers a wide range of moisture content, (from 6 to 45 percent) has a digital readout, is comfortable, extremely easy to use, and retails for just over a hundred dollars. There are two sets of pins provided for two different depth readings. The deeper ones, which store inside the case, are for thicker lumber to get a more accurate core reading. This particular model has been sold for two years, and we've never gotten one returned.

"For professionals, I usually suggest the DX/C, which has settings for a larger variety of species, including many exotic woods. You can also plug in a slide hammer electrode that allows even deeper readings. Another option is to hook up any of a wide variety of in-kiln probes of different sizes and lengths to get accurate readings while wood is being dried.

"The range in calibration settings is one of the things that differentiates various models. For instance, the E/D has two calibration setting options. The model K has more than 120 settings. A card comes with each model listing the various wood species and tells you which calibration to read each one on.

"Perhaps the biggest challenge as far as research goes is keeping track of new woods that show up on the market for which we don't yet have a calibration. As part of our customer service, we encourage our customers to send us a sample of whatever wood they are using and we will test it, for free, and tell them what setting to use. I do it by reading the wood on a meter with 20 different calibrations. I take at least nine readings, weigh the wood, dry it until it contains zero moisture, weigh it again, and calculate the moisture loss. That tells me what the meter should have read, and consequently which setting on the meter was the appropriate one. Of course, you can do that yourself, but we are happy to do it for you. If we do it, we add the wood permanently to our list of woods, as we did not long ago when Lyptus® came on the market. 
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"Personally," insists Grete, "I think every woodworker should have a moisture meter. You should always check your lumber before you use it, especially if you buy from places like box stores. Those stores may buy lumber that is kiln dried, but storage on-site can send it off the ideal range. A lot can happen, even if it was initially dried, before you get it. That is why people need a moisture meter, and for the money, we feel ours is the best one on the market."

Powermatic PM 1200 AFS: Take a Deep Breath – of Clean Air

For Barry Schwaiger, the Director of the Powermatic Division of the WMH Tool Group, the issue of sawdust is all about health, and he's concerned that not all of us go far enough in dealing with the problem.

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"I think of dust collection in three lines of defense," Barry explained. " The first line is at the machine or sanding table in the form of a bag, cyclone, cylinder or shop vac dust collector. Next, for most people, comes personal dust collection, usually a dust mask. The third, and the one most often overlooked, is an air filtration system (AFS). Most people use at least one of these methods, and some folks use two. That's good and necessary, but it really isn't enough. Sadly, not enough people use all three, which to me is the ideal."

I asked him to explain why, since I am sure to some this seems like overkill. "There are particles that make it through the filter media of most dust collectors," Barry pointed out. "A bag type dust collector can leak particles as large as 30 microns. Canister type dust collectors, which use a pleated filter inside a cylinder, grab down to two microns. That's better, but not good enough. Sadly, the particles that are most dangerous to our lungs are the ones we can't see, typically between five microns and 0.3 microns, and these are precisely the ones that can slip past even a canister filter.

"Particles from four to five microns are usually filtered out either by a canister filter or, if they get past that, by our body's own filtration systems, like nose hairs. Those smaller than that, all the way down to 0.3 micron, pose the biggest health risk. They can get past our natural defenses and get past our typical shop filters as well. Clearly, we need another line of defense.

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"Personal dust collection in the form of a dust mask can do it, but that has a filter area only about the size of your mouth. That does little for the rest of the shop, or for you when you are not wearing the mask in that room. Dust settles elsewhere and gets stirred up again later, perhaps when you are doing something that is a non-dust generating task. In such a case, you might not be wearing a dust mask, but the problem dust will still be there. The solution, then, is to rid the shop of this dust once and for all.

"The best way to do that is with an air filtration system (AFS). Although this is usually the last thing a woodworker adds to his dust collection arsenal, in my opinion, it should probably be the second, right after tool-mounted dust collectors. An AFS can filter the air and rid it of harmful airborne products vastly faster than your lungs can do the job working through the small surface area of a dust mask.

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"In a nutshell, an AFS consists of a fan, typically a squirrel cage fan, pulling air through at least two filters and dumping the now scrubbed air back into the shop. Do that enough and all the air in your shop will be clean." With that in mind, Powermatic last month introduced the PM 1200 Air Filtration System, boasting a triple dose of sleek good looks, powerful efficiency and a wealth of convenience features.

"First and foremost," Barry told me, "the PM 1200 AFS was designed with convenience in mind. A radio frequency remote, which does not require a line of sight sensor to work, turns on the unit from anywhere in the room or even outside the room. The remote itself has a liquid crystal display (LCD) showing things like fan speed, timer settings, battery levels: pretty much everything you need to know. A built-in panel on the box itself sports all the same controls, allowing you to also operate the unit without the remote, in the event you misplace it.

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"There are three blower speeds, allowing you to get the power you need, but also to save energy when lower speeds will do. A re-settable, pop-out fuse protects the unit in the event of an overload or power surge. Both the onboard and remote controls operate a timer with nine settings, allowing continuous operation for up to nine hours and automatic shutoff even while you're away. That's important, since most experts suggest you run your AFS at least two more hours after you leave the shop.

"Inside are three separate filter banks, all covered by a pair of protective end caps reminiscent of stylish pickup truck grills. The caps and the filters behind them come off and go back on quickly with no tools required. There's even a 'change filter' reminder light that comes on after 200 hours of use. The outer filter is a standard size 12 by 24 HVAC filter available at any home store, making it easy and inexpensive to change filters when needed. If you prefer, you can clean the filter many times before you need to replace it. I clean mine by sliding the filter into a garbage bag and tapping it to release the dust into the bag.

"Behind the first filter is a high efficiency inner bag filter with a huge surface area that traps 85 percent  of 1 micron particles on each pass of air. It slides out as easily as the first filter, and can also be cleaned numerous times. Drawing the air through both these filters is a squirrel cage fan designed to work with the high efficiency induction motor to generate the greatest amount of airflow possible. In order to avoid stirring up more dust by dumping high speed air back into the shop, the exhaust air passes through a mesh screen filter that acts as a diffuser to gently reintroduce the clean air.

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"You should be cleaning the air at the rate of about once every 10 minutes if possible," Barry explained, "and that's a breeze for the PM1200 in most small shops. If your shop is the size of a typical two-car garage, it contains about 4,600 cubic feet. With the ability to move 1,200 cubic feet per minute, the PM1200 will clean the air in a shop that size in about four minutes, and will work well in a shop more than twice that size. Any bigger than that ,and you may need to start thinking about two units.

"When it comes to your health," Barry insists, "you shouldn't take chances. You need a system that performs well and is convenient enough to make you likely to use it. The Powermatic PM1200 AFS was created to do just that."

Editor's Note: In the March/April 2008 issue of the print Woodworker's Journal, currently on newsstands, you'll find an article by Sandor Nagyszalanczy on the correct installation and placement of air filtration systems and other forms of dust collection.

Vintage Hardware: Past Perfect Paraphernalia

Imagine you've spent umpteen hours restoring a piece of vintage furniture or building a perfect reproduction right down to the period appropriate finish, and are now standing before a wall of woefully inappropriate modern hardware choices at the local big box store. Frustrating? You bet, but you don't have to settle for the wrong fittings, not as long as Vintage Hardware has your back.

Wander back through time via their web pages and you'll find butterfly-shaped hinges, glass doorknobs, period handles, vintage lighting and reproduction switch plates and escutcheons. Can't find an exact match for missing hardware? They'll even make a custom reproduction for you. How did this wonderful resource come about? I spoke with Ken Kelly, the founder and CEO of the company, to get the backstory.

"I was an antique dealer living in Scotland shortly after my stint in the Air Force," recounted Ken. "I had a good friend there whose father owned a foundry. They used to make hardware for my antiques when I needed it. They also let me come and play with metal, and that was one of the joys of my life.

"In 1975, I returned to California, my original home, where I ran three antique shops. When my friend's father died, we did a business swap. I traded my antique export business to him for his father's foundry. I packed up the foundry in 1978 and moved it from Scotland to Taiwan.

"About a year earlier, I had been to Taiwan on a fact-finding mission for the foundry and met Jane, the woman who would become my wife. She and her family lived in Kaohsiung, a port city near the bottom of the island. Her mother allowed us to use one of her business licenses, and we set up a factory for the foundry making antique reproduction furniture hardware. In 1995, we moved the factory to China. 

"Then, in 2002, we visited Port Townsend, Washington, a quaint Victorian seaport and tourist destination. We loved it, and two years later we moved there and opened a store called Vintage Hardware. Almost immediately, I became involved in local historical activity. Port Townsend holds a Victorian Festival every year, and that year we hosted it. I became a trustee of the Historical Society, a member of the building committee of the Historical Research Center, and a prominent member of the Victorian Festival committee. About two years ago, we opened the world's only Art Deco light museum right in our building.

"Today, Vintage Hardware is housed in a 35,000 square foot factory whose purpose is primarily to sell and promote the antique reproduction hardware we make. In addition to carrying over two thousand different pieces of vintage furniture and household hardware, we also do an almost unlimited range of custom pieces for homes, museums and government buildings. We cover a huge range of periods and styles, including Victorian, Edwardian, Arts and Crafts, Deco, Nouveau and others, and even make reproduction Bakelite handles and knobs in five colors.

"We sell all over the world from our catalog and web site, and have an outstanding reputation after three decades in the business. Over the years, we've done hardware and lighting for jobs ranging from the San Jose trolleys to the White House.

"Some of our pieces," Kelly explained, "are surprisingly complex to manufacture. For example, some chandeliers require as many as 90 different silicone rubber molds, used for pouring wax. The metal parts are then made by lost wax casting, a jewelry making method that results in strikingly precise details. Typically they are cast by hand. Often genuine mica sheets are cut and set by hand for the shade panels.

"At the moment we are in a 'green' growth period," Ken told me rather proudly. "We are currently the only manufacturers of Victorian fixtures with electronic compact fluorescent light (CFL) bulbs. We offer reproduction fin de siecle fixtures made with Energy Star rated bulbs, and are working on the first ballast-free LED replacements for fluorescent tube fixtures. The four-foot tube we are currently working on will have 300 LEDs and put out nearly 800 lumens, but will draw a mere 11 watts." 

I'll be the first to admit that the Vintage Hardware web site is truly a delight to wander through, but no matter how fascinating a web site is, it's not quite the same as seeing the real thing. Ken feels the same way.

"I just wish everyone could come to the shop and kick the tires," Kelly says somewhat ruefully. "Of course, if you can make it to Port Townsend, Washington, by all means come and visit. I'm certain you will walk away amazed."

-- Click on Any of the Images Above to View Larger Versions. --

Warp Be Gone: The Straight Dope for Twisted Wood

"The original idea for Warp Be Gone," explained Gustav Wynde, the product's inventor, "came to me while I was using Pentacryl. That's the stuff that you put on green wood to prevent it from cracking as it dries. It works far better than the PEG I used to use, and that made me realize there was potential for another great product. After all, if you can prevent wood from cracking while it dries, why can't you prevent drying wood from warping, twisting or cupping? Better yet, why can't you flatten already warped wood?

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"I have a background in chemistry, so I really was the ideal person to develop this. In college, I majored in botany with a minor in organic chemistry. My first job out of school was working as a research chemist at a large company in Ohio that specializes in lawn care products, weed killers and plant growth promoters. After seven years there, I took a job with Weyerhaeuser, the logging and wood products giant, and moved to Washington's Olympic peninsula in the Pacific Northwest. 

"While they had already developed ways to speed up tree growth, which in turn increased wood yield per acre, my job was different. I was part of a team trying to develop chemicals to make trees grow straighter, since that, too, increased the usable wood per tree. Warp Be Gone was an outgrowth of what I learned during that research. Unfortunately, after only four years with Weyerhaeuser, I was laid off during a market fluctuation.

"I had long done woodworking as a hobby, so to make up for lost income, I bought a Woodmizer. With it, I'd go on-site to people's property and turn downed trees into usable lumber. Naturally, I did the same for myself, seeing it as a cheap way to get decent quantities of wood. When you cut wood for others, the job is over as soon as the wood is stacked, so you never know how things worked out. However, while drying my own wood, I was distressed to discover how much wood I lost to warping, cupping and bowing.

"I set up a small lab in my basement and went to work. Within two years, I had come up with my first product, DryRight. By soaking green boards in it, you were assured of having them dry straight and true. The problem was that most people don't get wood green. In fact, most people go out of their way to buy kiln dried wood. I realized there was a larger audience for a product that straightened already warped boards. I started reading up on the chemistry of hair care products used to straighten curly hair, and before long, developed Warp Be Gone.

"As with DryRight, you pretty much have to soak the board with it, but that is not as difficult as it sounds. I usually take several boards, soak them well on all sides and ends, then wrap the bundle tightly in plastic sheeting to keep them wet. Sheeting is very inexpensive and comes in rolls of 10-foot wide plastic, quadruple folded to fit on a manageable roll, in 100- and 200-foot lengths. Once I have the bundle wrapped, I tape the seams and ends with duck tape.

"For one-inch lumber, it takes about five to seven days of soaking, which leaves the wood somewhat pliable. Thicker boards take longer. I have a chart on my web site that shows the soaking time needed for various thicknesses and species of wood. After a week, remove the wood, sticker and stack it with a modest amount of weight on top and a flat surface beneath. That way it will stay straight as it dries. The residual liquid evaporates fairly quickly depending on heat, humidity and ventilation.

"The material itself is waterbased and not particularly harmful, though I do suggest wearing gloves and making sure you don't get it in your eyes or mouth. It's also a good idea to wash your hands thoroughly after handling it. Initially, I figured the market for this would be large wood processors and sellers like home centers, and perhaps some large furniture manufacturers, but I've found that many of my customers are small shop and hobby woodworkers just like myself.

"The important thing for me was saving wood. Not only is it environmentally correct to avoid wasting any resource, but it also helps your bottom line to be able to use all the wood you buy. Many customers, though, have told me what really mattered to them was being able to save and eventually use a particularly beautiful piece of lumber that would otherwise have ended up as firewood.

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"One customer called to tell me he was able to use a stunning, highly figured piece of crotch walnut that had warped into a potato chip shape during drying. He was so grateful, you could hear in his voice that he was barely choking back tears of joy. That, more than anything else, is the real reward for developing this."

Jack McDaniel: He's Out to 'Eliminate' Turning Problems

Turning is fun, which is why so many woodworkers turn. Even professional woodworkers who don't need the lathe for their regular work admit it's the tool they turn to for pleasure. Still, there are a few gremlins. For those turning bowls, they include catches, tearouts, chattering and the interruption of having to constantly stop and resharpen.

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When erstwhile construction worker and dog trainer Jack McDaniel turned bowls, he suffered through the same problems, but he decided to do something about it. He came up with a tool that eliminates all those problems, and appropriately enough, he named it "The Eliminator." He liked it so much he decided to make more of them and sell them to his friends, which fortunately includes all of us woodworkers. How this all came about is firmly enmeshed in a somewhat convoluted trail that starts after his military days.
 
"After my stint in the Air Force," Jack recounted to me, "I worked in construction for more than two decades, from 1958 to 1979. As luck would have it, I bought a farm in Moses Lake, Washington on May 16, 1980, just two days before Mount St. Helens blew its top and covered the entire farm with four inches of ash. The next year, my wife and I started showing dogs and training field dogs. We formed the Academy of Canine Behavior that embodies our approach to dog training: that dogs are like two-year-old children.

"Along about 1997, I started turning wood, my first venture into hobby woodworking. Initially, I decided I wanted to make a cane, so I bought a lathe and some tools. I had no idea how to turn, so I took lessons from a local woodturner. I was immediately hooked on turning, and soon joined the Seattle chapter of the AAW, of which I am currently president. Before long, I started turning bowls.

"Much of my work is making trophies, which I donate to various dog clubs. I never really intended to sell my turning work, but started JewelWood Studio about five years ago so I could buy supplies from companies that only sell to businesses. A little more than two years ago, I bought a CNC milling machine with an eye to using it for making trophies. Eventually, I added a CNC lathe.

"Several people I know had been experimenting with scraper type hollowing tools. The problem is they tend to catch, tear wood and need sharpening frequently. I was looking for a better tool, one that would shear rather than tear wood, and realized that if you held a cutter at just the right angle, it cut beautifully. I took a carbide cup cutter from my metal lathe and mounted it on the end of a round bar, but quickly found that if the angle shifted to the wrong orientation, disaster could result. Working inside a hollow vessel, you had no idea what was happening since you could not see the cutter engaging the wood. There was no way to tell at what angle the cutter sat.

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"I milled a flat on one side of the bar so that it would lie on the tool-rest at the correct angle. That worked great, but a lot of people, myself included, also cut with the lathe in reverse, which gives you more control. For that I needed a different angle, so I made two tools: a left and a right cutting tool. As I looked at it, I realized that if I cut two flats on one bar, I could get both functions in one tool. I called the tool The Eliminator because it eliminated all the common problems associated with deep bowl turning, including sharpening. Eventually I made three sizes, a small, medium and large.

"The bar on which the cutter is mounted is mild steel, which tends to absorb vibration better than harder steels. The smallest bar is a half-inch diameter with a quarter-inch diameter cutting bit. There's also a three-quarter bar with a three-eighths cutter, and a one-inch with a half-inch cutter. The two smaller ones are 12 inches long, and the largest one is 16 inches long. I sell them with a tenon on the end that fits into the readily available handles on the market. That also makes them easier to break down for travel.

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"For small boxes and hollow turnings, the small tool is perfect, and allows you a tiny eighth-inch radius. The Eliminator will also work on the outside, and is perfect for cutting coves. Unlike standard tools that force you to cut coves downhill from two directions, this tool lets you cut outside coves in one sweeping motion. It's also great for cleaning up bottoms of bowls since it allows you to make elegant finished radii without fear of messing up the piece at the final stage. It's really divine down at the bottom of bowls. The medium and large cutters allow you more stability during deeper cuts, but offer the same control and advantages. The only difference is that you will have a larger radius of cut.

"At first I started selling them to my fellow guild members. The company is only a year and a half old, and I have sold over 500 of them. Recently, two wood turning specialty companies, Packard Woodworks and Crafts Supply, picked them up, as did a single woodworking specialty store. Because of those arrangements, I do not sell direct from my web site.

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"The tools are manufactured right here in Bothell, Washington on my own CNC machines, which makes quality control easy to manage. I'm much more interested in producing quality than volume. I have a part-time helper but, for the most part, if you own one of my tools, it came from my hand. I personally assemble each by hand and check every one before it goes out.

"I do a demonstration with the largest cutter in which I mount a bowl blank on a mini lathe, set the rest out 13 inches away, and with one hand, make a perfect cut. The point I am making is that you can easily cut 13 inches into a large bowl with no worries.

"However, the coolest aspect of this tool is that I can take a person who has never touched a lathe, put the tool in their hands without worrying about them hurting themselves, and watch as they make a perfect cut the first time out. It's almost foolproof used the way it was designed.

"Try it," Jack summed up with assurance. "You'll like it." 

Wenzloff & Sons: Custom Hand Saws for the Discerning Neanderthal

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They may be a relatively small group, but the self-described "Neanderthal woodworkers," folks who eschew power tools in favor of hand tools, are quite particular about what they use. Neanderthals insist that if you want the very best handsaws you should buy ones that are handmade. The cream of the crop of such saws, according to chat room literati, are those crafted by Mike Wenzloff. Along with two of his children, he operates Wenzloff & Sons, Saw Makers out of a relatively small Oregon workshop.

I found myself wondering not only what goes into making such fine quality tools by hand, but also why in this modern age these stalwart folks would choose such an unusual, almost anachronistic, endeavor. To learn more, I called and chatted with Mike himself, and asked him to tell me the story from the very beginning.

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"In my junior year of high school," Mike recounted, "my father and I started a shop repairing on-the-road big rigs. He had been a mechanic all his life. For me, it was an inducement to leave high school. We shared that business until late in 1977. By then my wife and I had bought 60 acres in the Idaho panhandle, up in the middle of nowhere. We built a log cabin with no electricity or running water, and I started a logging business.

"In 1988, I accidentally rolled a skidder down a hillside, which left me both injured and deeply in dept. We sold everything to get out of debt and moved back to Oregon, where I got my GED and went on to college. To pay for all that, I started a graphics design business doing technical illustration and writing.

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"In 1998, I went to work for my best customer, again doing graphic design. That same year, I was diagnosed with cancer. After three and a half years, I went to work for a company doing data management service, designing and writing database codes used to publish catalogs. Up until 1998, I had spent most of my life working for myself and, frankly, found that working for someone else was not really a great fit. In 2005, I went back to working for myself.

"Throughout my life, my equivalent of a paper route was sharpening saws. It is something I have always done, along with making furniture, a craft I had learned from my grandfather, a Washington State prison guard, and my great-uncle, who was a logger. In 2005, I started building custom furniture full-time along with two of my now-adult sons. A health issue cropped up almost immediately which forced me to lay off my sons and shut down the shop.

"That same year, I was approached by a customer who had seen some of the saws I had made for myself, and he asked me to build a set of 20 saws for him. I made them, and continued to take in sharpening. By tax time, I realized I made more money making and sharpening saws than making furniture. Besides, I love making saws, so I kept the name Wenzloff and Sons and simply switched to making handmade saws.

"Just before Christmas of 2005, I announced to the online community that I was going to make my living making saws, and would go live on January first, 2006. Within a month, I was swamped with orders. I brought my sons back into the business, but even with all three of us, we soon had more than a 30-week waiting period. My nephew joined us recently, so there are now four of us. The three of us made and shipped about 30 saws per week; with the newest employee we should soon be able to do 50. Nevertheless, our current backlog is well over 3,000 saws."

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That's certainly impressive, and it made me wonder just what about Wenzloff saws sets them apart from the competition. "We use thinner plate, lighter sets, and better sharpening," Mike explained. "Mechanically, thinner, sharper blades with a lighter set give a smoother cut and require less effort. We also use significantly harder steel, which necessitates less frequent sharpening. Our ergonomic handles both fit the hand and look better. Overall, the saws have a better in-the-hand feel. To me, that means a combination of the handle hang, which is the angle between the handle and tooth line, and the handle comfort.

"Most of our handles are replicas of traditional shapes and sizes. Such handle sizes and shapes had been perfected from the mid-1700s on up until 1928. As machinery came in, some very comfortable handles, which were very difficult to make on shapers and routers, went away. The handle on our number nine saw is a good example. Complex curves went out, and single radius curves came in.

"We find that there is a broad range of people who will fit the average saw handle. However, we will make any saw with any handle. Most of our handles are done in bubinga and beech, but we also do rosewood, jatoba, imbuya, mesquite, African blackwood, ebony, figured walnut, figured maple, pink ivorywood or nearly any other wood that will make a decent handle.

"Hobby woodworkers make up some 80 percent of our business. They have more discretionary income, less brand loyalty and a greater appreciation of both quality and aesthetics. These same people prefer to be involved in the process of making their tools, which is why we, as a custom saw maker, appeal to them. Ironically, we use eight different vintage hand saws in the production of the saws we make.

"We also sharpen saws differently depending on whether you are cutting mostly softwoods as opposed to hardwoods. Softwood saws get a more aggressive rake. I always ask what woods my customers typically use. Oak and ash, the ring-porous woods, for example, are some of the worst case woods, and require a more relaxed rake than normal when sharpening."

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Still, Mike is quick to point out that not everyone needs what he makes. "There will always be functional tools that will work for 90 percent of the market," he maintains, "and most don't need a custom saw. If there is no compelling reason, don't spend money on a custom saw. We routinely tell our customers that. If you already have a saw that will do what you need it to do, don't replace it."

For some, though, there are some very good reasons to buy these handcrafted gems. "Great saws appeal at a level different than mere functionality," Mike points out. "If you want to have a hand in custom filing, custom wood and handle shape, and end up with a saw that works well and comfortably, you probably want a custom saw. The bottom line, though, is that the skill of the person using the saw is a lot more important than the saw." 

Gorilla Glue: The Gorilla Grows with New Glues

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In 1994, a woodworker named Mark Singer went to Indonesia to have them manufacture some models of his high-end outdoor teak furniture. He found them using an industrial glue with which he was unfamiliar. The glue was a polyurethane adhesive that was appropriate for both interior and exterior work, and would bond not only to wood, but to a wide variety of other materials as well. At that time, polyurethane glue was not sold retail in the U.S., though the glue did exist in the industrial realm. Mark was to change all that. He contracted with the Danish manufacturer of the glue he saw in Indonesia, and Gorilla Glue was born.

From there it grew, soon becoming a household name among woodworkers. Now, in a move sure to position Gorilla Glue as an even more significant force in the adhesives industry, the company is expanding beyond polyurethanes. They are adding three more glues sure to delight the woodworking world as much as did the original. To understand not only what changes are afoot but also how they arrived where they are today, I asked Pete Ragland, the president of Gorilla Glue, to give me a bit of history on the company before pulling back the veil on their new products.

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"Mark Singer was the first one to offer polyurethane adhesive to hobby and small shop woodworkers," Pete recounted. "He pitched his glue to woodworkers through direct mail, specialty stores, lumberyards and woodworking shows. He kept the company small, with just two people, but within a year or two, several other glue companies came out with competing products. Then, in 1999, Mark sold the company to us, the Ragland family. We were the owners of Lutz File and Tool Company, an industrial supplier of file handles. My four brothers and I bought the business and all five of us are active in it, along with close to a hundred employees.

"At that time, Mark was selling almost exclusively to woodworkers. We saw a larger audience. Instead of restricting ourselves to only woodworking specialty stores, we focussed on mom and pop hardware stores and lumberyards. We sent a sample of glue to every store we could find, over 20,000 in all. That worked very well. People started using the glue, realized its uniqueness, and felt it was something they could talk about to their customers.

"We also started putting it in smaller bottles in addition to the pints and quarts that Mark had been selling. Eventually, our fame spread, and we moved into the big box stores as well. These days we sell to contractors, carpenters and all manner of do-it-yourself types through box stores, mass merchants and craft stores, as well as hardware stores, lumberyards and woodworking specialty stores.

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"While other companies had polyurethane adhesives in their product lines, we decided to dedicate ourselves to telling the Gorilla Glue story. We saw it as a phenomenon: an expanding, waterproof glue that truly worked on a wide variety of materials both indoors and out. It was therefore a fabulous and unique building and repair product from the perspective of the contractor or do-it-yourself homeowner."

Once I had a good grasp of their history, I asked Pete to tell me a bit more about both the original Gorilla Glue and the company's newer entries into the field of sticking one thing to another. "Gorilla Glue is a single-component polyurethane that is 100 percent waterproof and bonds to all porous surfaces very well," Pete explained. "Outside of some plastics, it bonds to pretty much everything, including stone, ceramic, granite, glass, wood and metal.

"The glue expands three to four times as it cures, which means it will bond even loose fits pretty well. Consequently, it makes a great repair adhesive, but it does foam as it cures. That means it must be well clamped or the foaming will push a seam or joint apart. Glue foam is not particularly strong, so Gorilla Glue is not considered a gap-filling adhesive. In other words, it will work well on a slip joint that is not all that snug, but not necessarily on a very sloppy one. If you over apply the glue, you will get glue foaming out of the joint. Once it is cured, there is no solvent to break it down, so squeeze-out must be physically removed.


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"After the polyurethane glue came Gorilla Tape, our version of duck tape, which we introduced three years ago. Duck tape was made to stick to shiny, smooth surfaces, and unfortunately, many companies sell cheap versions. Ours is 17 mils thick, much thicker than the typical offering, and because we add extra adhesive, it will stick to rough and uneven surfaces as well as smooth ones. It also lasts two to three times longer than traditional duck tape when used outdoors, and is two or three times stickier. In short, it is stronger, stickier and will adhere to uneven surfaces.

"About a year ago, we decided to expand into other adhesives, but only if we could develop a superior product to what was already out there. We introduced a faster curing version of Gorilla Glue that dries in 20 minutes as opposed to an hour and dries white instead of brown. It comes in both regular bottles and in a glue pen for precision application.

"We also tested dozens of cyanoacrylate adhesives and found there was little difference between them, so we went back to our roots in the industrial realm. What we found was rubber-toughened adhesive that is less brittle and has more impact resistance. Because it tolerates shocks better, repairs with Gorilla Super Glue will last longer and not break on impact the way some other cyanoacrylate adhesives will.


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"Our most recent product, just a few months old, is Gorilla Wood Glue, which is a type II, crosslinked, single-component polyvinylacetate (PVA) glue. We listen to customers through consumer panels made up of people who work in various fields that use adhesives every day. The feedback we were getting told us that woodworkers wanted strength in their wood glue, and ours meets or exceeds any glue out there. After that, folks wanted a faster cure without sacrificing working time. With ours, you get 10 minutes of working time, but can take the clamps off after only 20 minutes.

"We had assumed that all our competitors were putting wood fibers in their products, but found that was not the case. We saw an opportunity. Instead of using dyes to make the glue yellow, we add only wood fibers, which both adds strength and gives it a more natural wood color. As a consequence, our glue dries to a natural-looking glue line.

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"As for marketing, we'll be introducing these new glues the same way as we did before: offering samples to hardware store owners. The original Gorilla Glue is already in some 10,000 stores in North America, Mexico and the U.K. Your local hardware stores and lumberyards that now sell Gorilla Glue should soon start carrying the new glues as well.

"Of course, it won't end there. We will continue to look at different adhesive categories, and if we can come out with a single formula that we feel is better than everyone else's, we will enter that category. We're trying to create products that have a specific purpose, but still allow for simple decision making.

"I hope people try these new products," Pete said earnestly. "I think they will find that they will do exactly what we say they will do. They are good products. We don't cut corners. We sell a premium product and won't offer our customers anything less."

The Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding: Hope Floats

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When you call a school for a magazine interview, you really don't expect to find one of their students acting as spokesperson, but that's exactly what happened when I contacted the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding. The student, Pete Leenhouts, is a 54-year-old former Navy captain who served 27 years in the service before retiring in 2004. While it was certainly no surprise that a Navy captain knew a lot about boats, I was amazed at how well versed Pete is on both the school and its history.

"One of the things I always wanted to do was build boats," Pete confessed when I asked about his connection with the school. "My father was a doctor whose hobby was woodworking, and most of my life I was a hobby woodworker. There's always a shop on a Navy base, so I always had access to tools and wood where I could make furniture and toys.

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"During the time I was in command of a minesweeper in the Seattle area, I became aware of the Port Townsend wooden boat festival and was introduced to the school. I decided it had the program that interested me most. In fact, it has three one-year programs: traditional large craft, traditional small craft and contemporary or composite boatbuilding. Each course is a full 12 months, and I have taken all three. I am paying tuition, so I am unbiased, and I can tell you I walk into the shop every day and say to myself, 'I can't believe I am lucky enough to be here doing this.' That feeling is also pretty much universal among the other students and the instructors.

"As for its history, the school was started in 1981 by Libby Palmer and Henry Yeaton. Those two approached Bob Prothero, a master boat builder from Seattle who'd been building boats for some half a century. By 1970, wooden boatbuilding of large boats as a commercial industry was just about dead. Libby and Henry wanted to preserve wooden boatbuilding and felt others wanted to as well. They convinced Prothero, with their help, to start the school in 1981.

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"Initially, the school was designed to train professional boat builders, in spite of the fact that the wooden boat building industry had shrunk to the point where mostly recreational boats were being built. Nonetheless, a good number of young people were very interested in learning the craft. Bob would take someone just out of high school and teach him or her how to build a boat in a traditional master and apprentice format. There were few classes as such. Most students started with stars in their eyes about the mystique and thrill of actually following their dream, and about 80 percent of them ended up working in local boatyards.

"Gradually, the student body changed, and the school started hiring teachers and expanding classes. There are currently five full-time instructors and about 40 to 45 students, both men and women, ranging in age from 18 to 72. Each class has a primary instructor ,and two classes also have an assistant instructor. The school is fully accredited, and offers six-, nine- and 12-month diploma courses.

"Courses at the school teach how to build both traditional and contemporary styles ranging from eight-foot to 50-foot boats. Tuition is about $4,000 for a three-month semester. A full-time student will spend $16,000 per year. There are several scholarships offered, funded by the local Rotary Club, a yacht club, and even the school itself. If someone really wants to come here, the school will find a way to make that happen.

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"The school itself consists of three main buildings sitting on six acres right on the water at the lower end of Port Townsend Bay, a part of the Puget Sound on the east side of Washington's Olympic Peninsula. We are currently in the fundraising phase in order to build a large modern boatbuilding facility that will allow us to expand our student body, which currently is at its maximum. The site is already prepared. The building will have tall windows to take advantage of natural light and open shop spaces.

"Students are taught to use a full range of hand tools and power tools when they first arrive. In some cases, we start with people who've never worked wood or handled tools, and they end up with the ability to work in the field. These days, about one third are still young people hoping to do this as a profession, a third are looking for a career change, and a third are retired people interested in boat building more as a hobby than a profession. I am in that last third, and I see myself working in historical restoration and building small boats on the side.

"While many students go on to boat building, some go into high-end residential and commercial woodworking. The reason is that there is a perception that boat building embodies the most difficult aspects of woodworking, in part because it involves so much solid, watertight curved joinery.

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"The first thing the students will learn is how to loft the boat, which means drawing it out full-size on plywood. That's to figure out how the parts are made. Next they'll build the stem, which is the bow or front of the boat; the keel, which is the spine along the bottom of the boat; and the transom, the wide flat section at the back. After that comes a form or mold on which the boat's planking will be built. All of this is done upside down. When the boat comes off the mold, it is turned right side up and the bent wood frame is installed with copper rivets. Finally, the seats, rails, gunwales and oars are made, and the boat is finished.

"Once the students complete a boat, it is sold. In fact, most are sold before they are built. While a few are on spec, the majority are commissioned. A 14-foot cedar skiff, which is a type of rowboat, goes for about $3,200 dollars, including oars. At the high end, a 23-foot open powerboat with a 90-horsepower engine, designed as a fishing boat, will go for $40,000. A 36-foot motorized sailboat that was recently launched went for over $100,000.

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"In addition to the three primary courses, there are shorter courses which range from a day to a week and run about a hundred dollars a day. Those tend to focus on specific tasks involved in the larger sequence of building a boat. One coming up this summer will build a Whitehall, a boat originally developed in the 1880s as a  rowed water taxi in East Coast harbors. The course will run in nine sessions from June through August. You can take it day by day, a part of a session, a complete session, or the whole run.

"There are also courses on things like building kayaks and other styles of boats, rigging, sail making, oar making and even blacksmithing." In fact, the school is currently making sails for Washington's own two tall ships, the Lady Washington and the Hawaiian Chieftain, both of which are scheduled to participate in Tacoma's Tall Ships event in July of this year.

School implies tests, and being able to pass them. In this school, that process is about as unambiguous as it can be. "The boats students make have to float, not leak, and look good, pretty much in that order," Pete explained. " The final exam is putting the boat in the water, and there's no way to cheat on that test."

Eureka Woodworks: A Woodworking Business on a Silver Platter

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Imagine having a well designed, easy-to-operate wood furniture manufacturing business handed to you on a platter. Assume it will not only include everything you need to know about what to build, how to build it efficiently, where to market and even how to sell, but will also come complete with the right tools, jigs and templates, and even an ideal source for just the right wood and hardware. If all this sounds too good to be true, then sit down and prepare to be shocked. I was, because not only does Eureka Woodworks offer everything I described and more, but they do it for a song.

It all started because Harry Wilk tried to buy into just such an opportunity, only to realize he could do it much better. Of course, Harry had a lot of background on which to rely. "My grandfather started Wilk Hardware and Tool company in the early 1900s," he recounted, "and my father took it over. Both my father and grandfather were avid woodworkers, so I did woodworking as far back as I can remember, even as a child. After getting a business degree in college, I went to work in the transportation parts industry and stayed there until 1983, when I started my own import parts business. In 1991, I sold the company and went into insurance and financial planning.

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"About that time, I was living in a beach town and started building Adirondack chairs as a hobby. I came across a Canadian gentleman who offered what he said was a complete business program to build Adirondacks. I saw it as a gigantic shortcut and bought into his program in 2000. It looked to me like a great idea for someone to make money building outdoor furniture, something I was already doing as a hobby, and have fun doing it at the same time.

"I built and sold outdoor furniture for two years and had a blast doing it, in part because it was great for the ego. People were constantly coming up to me saying how wonderful, comfortable and well designed the furniture was. I also made a lot of money at it; although I did it only as a part-time endeavor, I made an average of 5,000 dollars a month net profit.

"It turns out that I was one of the first of very few people to buy his program. Shortly thereafter, he decided he really didn't enjoy the business of setting up others in business, and sold the whole endeavor to me in 2003. His was a basic program with an operation manual, assembly jigs, cutting jigs, templates, limited sales tools, a lumber source and a hardware source. There was no customer support or serious training. It had the basics, but was missing a lot of key elements to make it an easy path to success.

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"When I bought the company, I was buying only a concept and the rights to materials. I could see there was a great profit potential for either a weekend or full-time woodworker, but it needed to be updated. I quickly put together a marketing package, took out a small ad in Woodworker's Journal, and within a month had started selling producing partnerships.

"My son joined me in the business, and we immediately saw ways to improve almost everything about it. We set out to do just that, upgrading the manual and providing all the sales and marketing tools someone would need to get the business off the ground. We also contracted with a much better lumber source and a better hardware source.

"With the aid of a fellow who was making my templates and jigs, we came up with a whole new design that eventually became known as our FactoryTrac™ jig and fixture system. This new system is easier to use, faster, more efficient and, most importantly, is complete. With our jig system, you can make an Adirondack chair, start to finish, in under two hours. I've done it in as little as 45 minutes, including cutting, sanding and assembly.

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"We grew the company to just over 100 producing partners by 2006, and continued to make improvements. Realizing the need to invest further, we added increased advertising, new machinery and a new facility in 2007. Now, a year and a half later, we have grown to over 240 producer partners, and started getting from 500 to 2,500 inquiries per month. Anyone who calls or emails gets printed material, an email and a phone call from our business development department. We don't put any pressure on anyone; instead, we answer questions and provide you with all the information you want. We'll send samples, references, a business plan, financing and so on. You can decide if it is right for you, and which services you need.

"We also increased the product line. What started with Adirondack chairs now includes over 40 different pieces of high quality, handcrafted outdoor furniture including gliders, rockers, tables, swings and even children's furniture. Along the way we've grown to seven employees in a state-of-the-art facility with CNC machinery to make accurate fixtures. There's also a complete training center in Dallas in which we can take a neophyte and have him or her building successfully in just two days, one of which is spent actually building the furniture. As part of our sales and marketing research, we continue to make and sell our own furniture, checking everything in the program to make sure it is working perfectly.

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"We have what I think is a most unique business opportunity. Because this is not a franchise, there are no ongoing fees. It is a one-time purchase. The cost is relatively low, starting with as little as 6,000 dollars, and you get a tremendous amount for it. In fact, we give our producing partners enough wood, hardware and supplies with the initial program that you can almost recoup the entire investment with the first run of furniture. Because we can keep a lid on the cost of lumber, we can almost guarantee that our partners can make good money even on short runs. You don't have to produce thousands of pieces to make a good profit.

"To avoid waste, we design our furniture to use limited lumber sizes, and we supply all of it cut to two widths and three lengths. Every piece of lumber is visually inspected and comes to our producing partners defect-free. All of it is kiln-dried, furniture grade, tight knot Western red cedar. It comes one inch thick, not three quarter, which makes a big difference both in the strength and appearance of the furniture. You can continue to buy wood and hardware from us, and most people do because it is less expensive and of a higher quality, but you don't have to. We can even sell you any major tools you need, thanks to a recent agreement with JET and Powermatic. No matter what, we continue support to all of our producer partners."

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Building furniture seems well within the means of Woodworker's Journal readers, but selling is another issue altogether. Apparently, Harry has heard that concern before.

"One of the things we hear most often is, 'I know I can build it, but how do I sell it?' To that end," Harry explained, "we include advertising materials, advice on where and how to sell, a point of sale web site to enable you to sell online and even four-color brochure blanks that let you embed your own information using a regular computer printer. We teach you how to sell retail, wholesale and even how to sell kits. In short, we have taken the guesswork out of starting a business. Everything you need, from training and marketing information to wood and fixtures, is all there.

"Of course, we also suggest selling price points for the furniture you make, which we feel are so good that if you show the furniture, it sells itself. However, to help create even more demand, we are setting up a national sales web site called EurekaChairs.com that will be among the top spots in online search engines. Through the web site, someone from any part of the country can order Eureka furniture online, and the order goes to the closest producer to where the order originated. Another new option will be the ability to sell Adirondack furniture adorned with full-color college, fraternity and sorority logos, thanks to a marketing agreement we are working on. That can be a real boon for builders near college campuses."

From all indications, they've got an idea with widespread appeal. "Our partners hail from all walks of life," Harry pointed out proudly. "About 20 percent of our producers are women, and close to 50 percent are husband and wife teams. We see it as a perfect family business. One pair of brothers in South Carolina signed up to do a show even before they got their initial delivery. Based on a couple of samples they took with them, they accepted  7,000 dollars in orders, then had to go back and figure out how to build them. They now have a very successful business."

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"Another partner, an optometrist, did his very first show in Galveston, Texas. He was worried about selling, but took 9,000 dollars worth of furniture to show. He sold out in three hours, then took another $22,000 in orders, all during that first weekend. He was using our suggested retail pricing and told us that everyone felt his prices were very low, yet he was still making a healthy profit. For example, his cost to build an Adirondack was about 50 dollars, and he was selling it for just under 200."

The bottom line is that Eureka is offering woodworkers a turnkey business that itself offers a healthy bottom line. Perhaps even better is that it is one of those rare business that can seem like more fun than work. I think Harry summed it up nicely when he told me, "If you'd like to turn your hobby or passion into a moneymaking business, and have fun while you are doing it, this is definitely the way to go."

TOOLClad: Math, Measuring, Marring and Magnets

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Though some are loath to admit it, a surprising number of us use our table saws as workbenches. After all, the saw is right there in the middle of the shop, boasts a large, flat surface, and is nice and sturdy. The problem, of course, is that such usage is likely to result in getting scratches, water, glue and the inevitable rust stains on the surface. Granted, you can assiduously maintain the surface with steel wool and wax on a regular basis, but Randy Poyorena and his three partners have a better solution for you, and one that adds a host of advantages beyond simple protection. They call it TOOLClad, and it's a removable magnetic cover for stationary power tool tables.

"The initial idea was mine," Randy told me, "and it was developed as much out of personal need as any other reason. I originally studied to become an airplane mechanic, but I stayed in school while working, and graduated with an engineering degree. With that, I went to work as a mechanical engineer. In 1998, I got married and bought a new house. Since I had always been a hands-on sort of person, I decided to do all the improvements myself. I built a fireplace mantel and some built-in cabinets, and that was enough introduction to woodworking to let me know that I needed to learn more of it. I went to a woodworking school and learned to build furniture. By that time, woodworking had become entrenched as a serious hobby.
 
"My largest purchase was a Unisaw. I'm a bike rider, and used to hang my bike from the rafters above my table saw. One day, I came out to find that my water bottle had leaked onto my table saw. My shop's pride and joy now sported a huge rust spot. I put the bike in the basement and set to work to remove the rust, but it did not end there. Since I often used my saw as a workbench, it often became graced with scratches, glue, and more rust. I realized I was not the only one in this position, and came up with a solution: a magnetic cover.

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"Rust requires both moisture and oxygen to form. If the air can't get to the metal, it won't rust even in the presence of airborne humidity. I figured the ideal solution was to cover the top with something magnetic. It would adhere well, remove easily and offer complete protection, not only from rust, spills and glue drips, but also from physical damage like scratches and dings.

"I chose flexible magnetic vinyl because it adheres easily, comes off easily and can be quickly rolled up into a tube for storage. The biggest challenge was finding it in large enough sheets. Once the piece was in place, I started thinking how nice it would be to have all the reference information I needed printed right there on my work surface. As luck would have it, printing on the surface was quite feasible, and I decided to put on the things I, or another woodworker, might want. That would make it not only protective, but incredibly handy.

"Printed directly on the TOOLClad table saw cover is:
•    a decimal equivalent chart
•    a wood hardness chart
•    a volumetric and linear unit conversion chart
•    a pilot hole chart for identifying the right size bit to drill for screws
•    a multiplication table
•    horizontal and vertical rulers
•    a protractor for setting angles
•    a chart of angles needed for three- through 12-sided boxes
•    a dovetail gauge
•    common formulas for calculating board feet, geometric perimeters and areas, and the formula for the Golden Rectangle

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"All that made the cover not only a protective device, but an incredibly useful handful of vital reference and measuring tools. Nevertheless, once I showed it to a few friends, they added another suggestion:make it so you can write on it with dry erase markers. I did. With that, the whole surface becomes a giant notepad, suitable for marking layout and positioning, cut lists and sketches. Making it dry erase turned out to be one of the biggest obstacles, but I felt it was well worth it. After ironing out all the details, I started marketing it in early 2007.

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"Soon after, I realized there are other tools in the shop with iron tables that might also benefit from this treatment. We made a band saw cover with charts for minimum radius possible for a given blade size, a blade length calculator, descriptions of blade tooth geometry, and a tooth per inch chart with usage suggestions. It, too, is a dry erase surface. A similar cover for the scroll saw is simpler, with nothing but layout grids on it for sketching out ideas. We also offer separate magnetic pilot hole guides and decimal equivalent charts that you can quickly mount to any steel surface.

"As far as I know, there is nothing else like this on the market. I think it is a must for anyone who has a table saw, but those of us with small shops who use our table saws for multiple purposes absolutely shouldn't be without TOOLClad. We don't sell direct, but if you got to the web site, there is a list of dealers near you." 

For Randy, this is both a solution to his problem and a new business venture. For me, it's an excuse to continue using my table saw as a bench, but without feeling so guilty about it.

Stockroom Supply's V Drum Sander: A Unique Drum that's Anything but Humdrum

V Drum Sander
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Some tool ideas arrive from out of the blue and others are designed to fill a bare market niche, but the V Drum Sander had a different origin. It came about as the result of its inventor being forced to field one too many complaints from annoyed sandpaper customers about the paper loading up on their drum sanders.

Paul Moore, its creator, is an inveterate problem solver with a long history of tool design. By combining that with some advice from a former shop teacher, Paul was able to devise an under-the-table drum sander that works entirely differently than any you've seen before. The result is a tool that drops its own dust out of the way, does not clog or burn sandpaper or wood, and puts almost no pressure on the wood it sands.

"I was brought up in a farming community in Ontario, Canada, where my dad was the local mechanic," Paul recounted by way of explanation. "As a kid, I worked with him, learning to fix everything and anything. We welded, machined and cobbled all sorts of tooling. In time, I became an ironworker, welder and fitter. I managed a hardware store in a small community in the early 1980s, and later got hired as the tool manager of a large hardware store.

V Drum Sander Vertical "By 1985, I was directly importing tools from China for Stamford Hardware, at the time the largest tool dealer in Ontario. I'm an efficiency freak, so I was always redesigning tools in my head and sharing that information with the company. Then in 1987, Black and Decker hired me as an advisor for their new tool line. That let me deal with ergonomics and how people use tools.

"My wife and I decided to start our own company in 1997 selling sandpaper, sanding belts and disks, buffing compounds and other abrasive media. We called the company Stockroom Supply, an allusion to the fact that most large companies have stockrooms workers can call for needed supplies. That same year, we introduced the sanding mop by changing an existing metalworking tool to one that used abrasives more appropriate to woodworking. Although we came up with the name, we don't currently own it. Instead, we allowed it to become the generic term for profile sanders made of multiple fingers of flexible sanding cloth on a mandrel.

Sanding Mop
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"At the time, it seemed like drum sanders were the hot new tool, and Klingspor was the media supplier for most of them. Because I was selling Klingspor sanding media, people at woodworking shows were forever harassing me about their drum sander paper loading up. I figured out that there were two reasons for the problem. First, most drum sanders had improper dust collection, and second, they tended to force the paper into the wood.

"What was needed for the first problem was a sander that sanded from the bottom up instead of the top down. That way you did not sand through your own sawdust, and gravity made the swarf fall below the sanding area. The other problem was solved by remembering advice from a shop teacher who would routinely tell me to stop pushing and let the sandpaper cut. For that, we created a sander that exerted no excessive pressure on the paper. We did that by leaving the drum below the table and having only the sandpaper itself protrude above it. With those two characteristics in place, the V Drum Sander was born.
 
Feather Wheels
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"Essentially, the V-Drum is a surface sander. Its drum sits just slightly below a flat table with a slot in it. The drum spins fast enough so that the paper, which is held on by Velcro®, expands slightly off the drum due to centrifugal force. As a result, when the drum is turned on, the paper lifts about eighteen thousandths of an inch off the drum. That's just enough for the paper to now be slightly proud of the top of the table. How proud depends on the size of the grit. The upshot is that you no longer sand by pressure of the drum, but rather by the size of the grit. The high speed of the rotating drum, which must be at least 2,050 rpm, is crucial to making the paper lift properly and consistently.

"While other sanders rely on pressure applied by the drum or roller to the wood, ours relies on consistent grit size across the surface. In a sense, the drum has nothing to do with the sanding process. It's actually sandpaper floating in air relative to the outside of the drum. The hook and loop mechanism is what lets this happen.

"Since the hook and loop is the same for each paper, and each moves the same amount from the drum, the difference in sanding is controlled by the difference in the size of the abrasive. For example, 220-grit will cut two thousandths of an inch, because that is the size of the grit. Eighty-grit will cut fifteen thousandths per pass.

LIttle Ripper
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"Everything that comes off the flat table is perfectly flat. As a result, the tool is perfect for raised panel doors, segmented rings for bowl turners, figured wood and veneers, and most anything else. Add a fence and it becomes an abrasive jointer. Because the grit is not pushed into the wood, it does not generate heat. As a consequence, you can sand with much finer grit than you could with any type of drum sander.

"We originally called it the Velcro® Drum sander, because we use Velcro brand hook and loop fastener material on the drum. In spite of the fact that we still use their product, the company objected to the name, so we changed it to V Drum. We chose materials for the drum itself that would minimize static charge, which is what causes sawdust to cling. That allows sanding swarf to drop down below the table and off the drum, even without dust collection. However, we suggest you use dust collection anyway.

"Initially, we introduced it as a six-inch upright sander that fitted to your drill press, but customers wanted a larger drum, so we laid it down and made it 18 inches long. Soon customers starting asking for larger drums, and we added a 24-inch and a 30-inch model.

"Figuring that woodworkers could make their own cases out of wood, we sold them only the drum, bearings and link belt needed to create the tool, along with instructions on how to do it. That meant you could use a motor that you have, since it requires only a quarter horsepower motor, and you'd save both shipping and assembly by doing it yourself. That appealed to woodworkers tremendously, and it allowed us to offer the tool for only $180. The price has since risen to $225, but I still discount them at woodworking shows for $180.

Flat Master Sanding System
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"We still sell all sorts of sanding media, and we continue to add other tools that make woodworking easier and safer. One example is The Little Ripper, a holder for small diameter logs being cut on a band saw. Another is our line of feather wheels, which work like a feather board but feed more smoothly and won't mark or crush the wood. We also sell the Flat Master, which is our drum sander kit already built for those who don't have time to make their own. Now that we have a detail sander, the sanding mop, and a flat sander, the V Drum, our next introduction, scheduled for the fall, will be a contour sander.

"All of our products are manufactured right here in Canada, and to keep prices down, we sell only direct from our web site or at woodworking shows. In my opinion, the people who are really up to speed in their woodworking circles are the ones who take the time to go to woodworking shows and see firsthand what is new. I think that's the best thing you can do."

Paul even had some good advice to offer about how to deal with both show dealers and tool evaluation. "Don't just stand there and watch someone use the tool," he suggests. "Ask if you can try it.

"Make sure you evaluate the new products on the market and don't just stick with the old standards. Because of new technologies, some of the newer ways of doing things are so much more efficient, and it would be a shame for you to miss out on them."

Delta/Porter- Cable: Still Innovating After All These Years

OmniJig
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As you know, we love to introduce you to small companies that offer niche products, but now and again we also like to peek in and see what the big boys are doing. This week I spoke with Chuck Hardin, the vice president of marketing for Delta and Porter Cable, to see what interesting new treats they have in store for us. It turns out there are quite a few.

Omnijig®

First up, on the Porter Cable side, is a newly designed dovetail jig that stands out from the myriad of other such jigs on the market. “This is the dovetail jig that does it all,” Chuck said proudly, “with adjustable finger templates for custom positioning and the capability of doing both dovetails and box joints in full size or miniature. On top of that, our jig is much easier to use than others, thanks to “set and forget” positioning stops. The positioning stops minimize the need for test cuts and offer repeatability across changing applications. That saves a ton of time. The stops come pre-set from the factory, but you can adjust them if you choose. There's also a router bit depth gauge to simplify the task of setting the bit depth.”

Nailers and Staplers
Nailer
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“We’re also showing a new line of nailers and staplers” he continued. “The big innovation here is that our six new units have a maintenance free motor design. An oil-free motor reduces the possibility of work surface contamination and frees you from the need to ever have to oil it. Other features include a rear exhaust port, to circumvent the annoying exhaust blasts from a port on top of the tool; a tool-free drive depth feature with precise détentes; a tool-free adjustable belt clip; and a reload indicator so you never run out of fasteners at just the wrong time.”
 
Low-Profile ROS
Random Orbit Sander
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“Our low profile random orbit sanders (ROS),” Chuck explained, “follow a whole new design concept. Essentially, they are electric sanders that handle more like an air sanders. Inside is a new ENDURATECH® motor technology using a brushless motor that is 31% shorter. That means a lower profile sander that puts your hand closer to the work surface, to give you increased control. The brushless motor has 71% fewer wearing parts, resulting in five to ten times longer tool life. We've also added electronic load control, to maintain the pad speed even when you push down on it, and electronic braking to shut off quickly when you stop. We find that the electronic load control results in 42% faster material remover, and for most of us, there's nothing better than spending less time sanding.”

Those are just the tools that have already been released; there's even more to come. “In the second half of the year,” Chuck promised, “Porter Cable will be launching a new line of lithium ion cordless tools."

Drum Sander
Drum Sander
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“Meanwhile, over on the Delta side,” Chuck continued, “there's a new 18/36inch drum sander. It sports an 18-inch long drum on an open sided frame that allows you to sand up to a 36-inch wide board in two passes. A stronger, rigid OEC frame offers superior parallelism and stability, and there’s an oversized hand wheel for smooth and simple height setting and new micro adjustment gauges. A storage cabinet below both adds weight, to dampen vibration, and provides space for sandpaper storage.”

Two New Dust Collectors

Dust Collection
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“We’re also offering two new one horse dust collectors. One is fitted with a 1-micron bag with a patented integral halo support. The internal support prevents that annoying puff of dust in your shop that often occurs when you first turn on the dust collector. The other has a two micron pleated canister.”

“Inside, a curved blade impellor produces maximum air velocity; in this case 650 cfm. That’s pretty impressive for a one horse motor. The whole collector has a smaller than normal footprint, and sits on four sturdy casters. That lets it move around easily instead of handling like a laundry cart. In spite of its small stature, the enclosed steel base is surprisingly stable.”


Planer
Planer
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“When it comes time to surfacing wood,” said Chuck, “we’ve got a new fifteen-inch planer with a three horsepower motor. Oversized infeed and outfeed tables drop down to the side of the cabinet to save space when you are not planing. In the up position, the tables, fitted with eight rollers, provide smooth feed and virtually eliminate snipe. Below, the enclosed cabinet helps dampen vibration, and there's a dust port that connects to either a four or five inch hose. Two feed speeds allow for both fast and fine cutting.”

Dust Port
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“There's more to come in the DELTA line as well," Chuck told me. “In the second half of the year, look for a new line of midi lathes, and a new line of Unisaws.”

Once again, it seems, Delta and Porter-Cable are going out of their way to prove that just because you are venerable does not mean you have to be stodgy.

Baker Hardwoods: Slab Happy

Milling
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Jim Baker is a retired biology teacher, and that may explain in part why he was drawn to the unusual and rather limited business he currently runs. He cuts and sells fancy figured slabs of walnut trees. However, instead of felling healthy trees, he cuts up dead and downed trees.

“There are some really huge walnut trees that are dying in California,” Jim explained, “and we are making usable slabs from them. We locate large trees that are dying or are being removed with the proper permits, and then cut, mill and dry the slabs. They are rare; we sometimes get fewer than one per year, but when they do come along, they are spectacular. When we find one, we go mill it on site. It’s like a party.”

Milling Walnut
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Although Baker Hardwoods is a post-retirement career for Jim, wood is firmly in his history. “Milling has been in our family since the early 1900s,” he recounted, “going back to my great-grandfather and my grandfather. The break came with my father, who worked construction after coming to California. I, too, worked in construction for a bit, drove a forklift, then went to Japan in 1961 after graduating from San Jose State University.

“The reason I went to Japan was to train for the 1964 Olympics in judo. I didn’t make the team, but I met my wife there. I got a master's degree in Asian studies while in Japan, then came home and went back to school to get teaching credentials. I took a job teaching at the university level in 1966. In addition, I started a judo club in Silicone Valley, which I ran until last year.

Kiln Load
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“Later, I took a job as a science teacher at a boys' ranch for delinquent boys, largely because it was out in the country. I stayed there for more than two decades. It was a great experience. We had mountains, trees, creeks, a shop and a library filled with wood books. Once the boys finished their academic work, I would let them get involved in wood projects, which most of them liked. I made a few things, too, but the main focus was to help the boys.

“We’d collect small logs for woodworking, so I eventually picked up a small chainsaw mill to deal with them. Then, in 1989, I met the man who claimed to have invented the Alaskan Chainsaw Mill, and learned how to process California walnut from him. He sold me a larger sawmill, and I started sawing wood and stacking it up. We eventually bought even larger mills that could handle wood up to 66 inches wide. Gradually, I started selling a bit of it, and before I knew it I had a side business in processing and selling walnut. In 1996, I retired from the teaching job, and my hobby business became a real business.

Grandparents
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“In this line of work, production is limited by the number of walnut trees available, and that is pretty limited. I keep it very specialized: I only do slabs, not musical instrument sets or custom furniture cutting or anything else. My customers range from individuals who want an unusual dining table to companies looking for unique conference tables and artists seeking striking pieces for their work. Sizes range from small pieces, mostly taken from stump wood and great for jewelry box makers, to slabs that may exceed five feet wide and sixteen feet long. Most of the wood is Claro walnut.

“Claro walnut lives up to 250 years, but once the tree starts to decline, it is often taken down. We don’t cut the trees down ourselves, but we will go on site to mill those that are too big to move. In one case, a retirement home was being enlarged and the tree had to go; in another, a huge tree came down in a storm and had to be removed. I just have to be patient until we get a call for a tree, and that can be months. It is not as if you can go into the forest and simply choose it.

New Wood
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“The final products I sell are rough but dried slabs, usually milled at twelve quarter for the larger ones, and ten or eight for the smaller. We then air dry them for four years after cutting. Most of the requests I get are for slabs that are too big to have come from the smaller, grafted trees culled from walnut orchards, a major industry in California. Consequently, much of the wood I cut comes from ranches needing large trees removed.

“There’s not too much competition in this field, since most people won’t wait four years for big slabs to dry. Cutting it is easy; it’s the drying that’s the problem. Fortunately, this is not really a serious business for me; I do it because I enjoy it, selling mostly via word of mouth and through the Internet.”

Plank
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Although it sounds like a business that offers far more work than reward, Jim has his reasons for pursuing it. “When I was teaching,” he recounted, “I didn’t have any money, but was always looking for wood for projects. In addition to providing unusual slabs for artists and artisans, I’d also like to sell small pieces cheaply to people in the position I was in. To that end, I plan to put up pictures of the small pieces on the website soon so woodworkers can pick out what they want.”

That sounds like a delightful wood smorgasbord for hungry woodworkers, and one well worth visiting frequently.

Mortise Pal: A Friend Indeed

Mortise Pal
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My guess would be that just about every woodworking magazine has, at one time or another, offered plans for a homemade mortising jig. But unless you have made a lot of mortises, and a lot of jigs, building a good, accurate jig is a lot harder than it seems. That’s why I appreciate people like Rob Gill, the designer and creator of Mortise Pal, a beautifully made and astonishingly simple to use mortising jig.

Versatile Clamping Design
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Of course, Rob did not start out as a tool designer. “Right out of high school, I joined the Marine Corps,” he recounted, “and spent five years there. After getting out, I worked a variety of jobs and took classes at a community college. Eventually, I stumbled onto electronics, and got an associate degree in the subject. That got me into real world work in engineering labs helping develop products, which inspired both interest and insight into the mechanics of things.

“Woodworking had always intrigued me and had a romantic appeal, so I took it up as a hobby in 2001. My grandfather was a hobby woodworker, and my father had been a shop teacher in the school system, but oddly, I never got into it as a kid. Perhaps, though, it was in my genes.

Loose Tenon Joinery
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“Working on projects out of magazines, I soon became frustrated with the inaccuracy of both tools and methods. Mortising in particular was a problem; I found most shop-made jigs and hollow chisel mortisers made it difficult to locate mortises accurately. I had been used to holding tight tolerances in metalworking, but found it almost impossible using woodworking tools and wood. After looking at both homemade and commercial options, I decided that either the jigs were under-built or overpriced.

Angled Joinery
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“While working on a project that required accurate mortises, I found myself getting obsessed with designing a tool that I would have liked to have been able to buy. First, I developed a jig that perfectly centered a mortise on a board, but found that was too limiting. It was neat, but not all mortises should be centered. Over three years, I worked through a few other iterations and came up with the Mortise Pal.

“Oddly, it was inspired by an old-style doweling jig along with other fixtures that paired plunge routers and bushings. As a result, when I started to expand the jig’s capability, I adapted it to also work as a doweling jig. Once loose tenon joinery got a big boost with the introduction of the Domino®, which came while I was midway through development, it confirmed to me that there was a market for loose tenon joinery as well. My jig is perfect for that as well. In fact, I have seen it called the 'poor man’s Domino. The fact that loose tenon stock is now widely available was a real boon. All I had to do was offer cutters that fit both the standard tenon sizes and standard American router shaft sizes. As luck would have it, Whiteside was already doing that.

Center Template
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“I was a bit apprehensive when I first took it to Palomar College to show it off. Fortunately, the first instructor I showed it to was very impressed by it, and that encouraged me to pursue it further. As I made more modifications, I got feedback as well as encouragement. About a year and a half ago, I quit my job to devote myself full-time to Mortise Pal.

“At present, Mortise Pal, which first went on sale in December 2007, is only sold through my website. I handle all day-to-day operations personally, and have outside machine shops here in California manufacturing certain parts for me. However, I am currently in the process of moving all manufacturing in-house so that I can continue to ensure the quality of the parts.”

Rout
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What sets Mortise Pal apart from its competitors? “I made it for me,” Rob explained, “so it is made for someone looking for accuracy. It works with all plunge routers, though in the user’s manual I suggest avoiding really large ones. In my experience, the lighter the router, the easier it is to control. Mortise Pal is compact, easy to use, lightweight, accurate, and possibly most importantly, it is intuitive. Take one look at it and it is obvious how it works even before you read the instructions.”

I can’t think of a more important characteristic for those of us who, like me, read instructions only as a last resort. For that alone we’d lift our glasses in thanks, but the fact that such simplicity comes paired with high quality and versatility leaves us even more grateful.

Excuse me. I think I want to go cut some mortises.

Epilog Laser: 'Light' Woodworking

Zing
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“There are just some things only a laser will do,” explained Mike Dean when I asked him why a small shop or hobby woodworker would need a laser. “It’s the perfect tool for massively expanding your woodworking options. You can customize in ways you could only dream about before, and it is as easy as printing to a computer printer. If you can print, you can laser. It’s unbelievably easy to use.”

Mike, along with his two partners, Steve Garnier and John Doran, owns Epilog Laser, a company taking firm aim at the woodworking market. Although large shops and specialized manufacturers have been using lasers to cut wood for some time, Epilog is working to put that technology within our grasp.

Letters
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The Zing, a model which came out earlier this year, is a compact, relatively inexpensive but fully featured unit aimed at first-time laser owners, making it perfect for small businesses and high-end hobby woodworkers. “We sell to a lot of hobby woodworkers,” Mike told me. “We’d like to see them in more shops, and for that reason, we go to most of the woodworking shows. You’ve probably seen us there.

“While the Zing is a great entry-level laser, our most popular laser is our Helix model. It has a 24- by 18-inch work area, a 45-watt laser, and costs about $19,000. The laser tubes themselves change technology as they go into higher wattage. That change occurs at about the 50-watt level, where they get significantly more expensive, so a 45-watt gives you the biggest bang for the buck. Our second most popular is the Helix with 75 watts, because on your second machine, you always buy as much power as you can afford.”

Cut Pattern
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The company was incorporated in 1988 by Mike’s partners, Steve and John, both electrical engineers from Georgia Tech. John built a laser in his basement while in his 20s, just to see if he could do it. Steve worked at Melco Industries doing motion control, so they decided to pool their talents to make a laser that moved around. When Steve found himself downsized while they were working on their second generation laser, they decided to create their own company. They felt that as two engineers, they needed a business partner, so Mike Dean became the third owner. They came up with the name Epilog, and the company was born.

“Today, Epilog has some 70 employees,” Mike told me, “as well as independent distributors throughout the world in about 50 countries. Situated in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains in Golden, Colorado, we occupy a 35,000 square foot facility designed specifically for what we do. All our lasers are made right here in the U.S.

Helix
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“We manufacture two types of laser systems. Our fiber laser, so-called because the laser is developed in an optical fiber, is used almost exclusively for metal and plastic marking. All the rest of our products are CO2 lasers, and they encompass about 94 percent of our product output. These are ideal for wood. They range in price from $8,000 to $50,000 with prices based primarily on work area and laser wattage.

Butterfly
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“At the bottom end, the Zing has a 16- by 12-inch table and a 25-watt laser. At the upper end is a 36- by 24-inch table with 120-watt laser. Laser wattage, as far as wood is concerned, translates only into speed. The higher the wattage, the faster the cut, but any machine will do any job. The smaller ones simply take longer.

“The laser beam is invisible, so watching it cut is fascinating. You can see where it contacts the material, but not the beam itself. Because the beam can both burn you and damage your eyes, we always keep it in an enclosed cabinet for safety reasons.

Owls
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“Each machine works in two distinctly different modes, both similar to two primary types of computer printers. The plotter mode follows vector lines, and is best for cutting all the way through wood. The raster mode produces one line at a time, like most desktop inkjet printers, and is best for thicker, shallower lines, like engraving text or surface graphics. You set all the laser parameters the same way you set up paper orientation and print quality. Instead of a printer depositing ink on paper, the laser burns away a spot of wood. You can run raster, vector or a combination of the two in one job.

“Virtually any Windows-based program will translate into either raster or vector, so you not limited in either text or drawing programs. Epilog works with Corel, Illustrator, PageMaker, AutoCAD, Word, Excel, and any other Windows-based program. You set up your artwork and print. All of our machines hook up with a standard USB or ethernet connection directly to your computer. You can do your work on your laptop, take it out to the shop, and plug into the Epilog. It is really that easy.”

Birdhouse
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When I asked about the wide price disparity in the field of lasers, Mike had some interesting insights to offer. “There are several companies that manufacture similar systems here in the U.S, in Europe and in Asia. One of the technologies imported from China is a glass tube laser. While they are similar, their capabilities are limited, and the tubes don’t hold up nearly as long as the metal tubes we use. Glass tubes are throwaway and only last for a few months, while our metal tubes last for five years or more, at which point they merely need to be recharged to keep working. The image quality is also significantly poorer with glass tubes.

Gun Stock
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“Just because the box looks the same,” Mike admonished, “does not mean the guts are the same. We suggest that people look at both systems, which is why we do trade shows and make sure our distributors are available with demo equipment. If a company does not let you watch their machine work before you buy, be suspicious.”

The good news for us is that, according to Mike, Epilog plans to expand in both directions. “We want to grow our CO2 line with larger and more powerful machines on one end, and less expensive ones on the other.”

You know, I think I could make room in my shop for a laser before Father’s Day rolls around. Perhaps it’s time to start dropping hints.

Varathane: EZ, Foam Home!

Foam StainOnce upon a time, stain was colored liquid. It changed the color of wood just fine, but was messy and tended to drip. Eventually, gel stain appeared on the horizon, offering less drip and a bit more convenience. Now Varathane, one of the most respected names in wood finishing, has gone a step further. Say hello to Foam Stain.

Grab the unusually shaped aerosol can with its slender  waist, put it up to the wood, and press the tip. Out comes colored foam as fluffy as whipped cream. I decided to call Matt Moon, the senior brand manager for wood care products at the company, to get the lowdown on this very odd, very fun version of wood stain, and as a bonus, got a quick history lesson as well.

One-Step Spray Can “Until 2001, when it was acquired by Rustoleum, a division of RPM,” Matt explained, “Varathane was part of the Flecto company. At the time, Varathane made only clear finishes. We both improved the clear formulas and added new products, including stains, gel stains, touchup and repair products, and tinted topcoats. We are constantly adding new products that we think will make wood finishing easier, more convenient and more enjoyable. To that end, our latest new product launch is Varathane Foam Stain.

“Instead of a drippy, sloppy traditional liquid stain, Foam Stain comes out of an aerosol can with the consistency of whipped cream. It penetrates as well as a traditional liquid stain, but is less messy and is easier to control. Spray out a dollop of foam, and it stays just where you put it. All you need do is take a soft cloth and rub the foam into the wood. Unlike traditional stains, there is no excess to wipe off. All of it will be absorbed into the wood as you rub. Additionally, the rag absorbs some of the stain as you work, and once it  absorbs enough, it becomes a stain-charged applicator so that there is little if any waste.

“You can work a small area, then move on to the next because Foam Stain does not leave overlap marks. We suggest you start with a golf ball sized dollop and work with it until you get a feel for how it handles on wood. In other words, don’t try to spray on enough to do the whole piece at once. At that point, you can decide how much you want to work with, but you’ll find that it goes a long way.

Varathane “What customers tell us they like best is that there is no stirring, there’s less potential to make a mess and no chance to tip the can over. It takes the dread out of staining because it behaves so well; it goes only where you direct it to go with the rag. Even complete novices have an easy time of creating ideal results with Foam Stain. In a field that too many people regard with distaste, this stuff actually makes staining fun. By November, we expect Foam Stain to be available at Home Depot, but you can always locate a retailer on our website. 

“Unlike traditional oil-based stains, there is very little odor, and you can clean up with soap and water while it is still wet, in spite of the fact the it is an oil-based stain. It still has the same penetrating quality of our other liquid stains. Leave it to dry overnight and you can use it under any finish: wate-rbased, oil-based or solvent-based. Shelf life is at least three years, so there’s no need to use it all up. It certainly won’t dry in the can because someone left the lid unsecured. We think Foam Stain will change the way people think about finishing. It takes away intimidation and uncertainty, puts something in your hand that gives you complete control, and makes staining more enjoyable than it has a right to be.”

Water Based Varathane I asked Matt if there were any other hot new products to make finishing easier for us long suffering woodworkers. It turns out there are.

“Another recently introduced product,” Matt told me, “is an aerosol version of Varathane One Step Stain & Poly. Back in 2005, we created an oil-based stain and polyurethane mixture that combines both stain and top coat in one product. The idea is to eliminate one step in the process: you can stain and apply finish in one operation. By continuing to add more coats, you can make the finish as dark as you want, since each coat will add more color. Once the color is where you want it to be, the job is done. In cases where you hit the color you want in the first application, you are free to add clear coats of polyurethane atop for more protection.

Universal Spray “While it was a great product, there was a minor problem. While the first coat is easy to get uniform, poor brush work on subsequent coats can lead to uneven bands of color. That becomes a bit more tricky on vertical application, since drips and runs become very obvious. In short, it is a great product, but has its challenges.

“Enter the aerosol version, which we released in April of this year. Aerosol application is much faster and makes it vastly easier to get uniform color without drips and runs. And, because it is both color and finish in one, there’s no need to buy both a top coat and stain separately, nor do you need worry about whether the two are compatible. It saves both time and money.

“One the most sought-after uses for One Step is to change the color of your furniture or kitchen cabinets without first removing the existing finish. While that was possible with the liquid one-step, the aerosol makes it considerably easier. On top of that, there’s no spilling, no need for brushes or applicators and little or no clean up when you are done. And, as is always the case with aerosols, material won’t dry up and go bad because you did not reseal the can properly.”

Metallic Spray While we were on the subject of aerosols, I asked Matt to tell me about another aerosol I had seen advertised on television called Rustoleum Universal.

“Although it is not your typical woodworker’s finish,” Matt admitted, “paint is still something we often reach for around the house and shop. For those situations, Universal is often just the ticket. First introduced last February, Universal is just what its name implies: a paint that will go over any surface, from plastics and metals to wood, glass and concrete, and is both an interior and exterior coating. In most cases, you don’t even need a primer under it.

“Even the can is unique. There’s a patented trigger delivery system that eliminates finger fatigue thanks to an ergonomic grip, and offers precision control. Another slick feature that makes spray painting even easier is that you can spray with the can in any direction, even upside down.

Hammered Spray Paint “This is the one spray finish that we feel eliminates the need for all others. One can on your shelf replaces primers and top coats of both indoor and outdoor paints. It’s the ultimate in flexibility and makes choosing the right paint as easy as remembering the name Universal. It’s available in a variety of colors in gloss and satin as well as in hammered texture and metallic colors. You might have seen our ads on TV already, and you can find it at all the major hardware stores and at home improvement centers like Home Depot and Lowe's®.

“The bottom line,” Matt pointed out, “is that we understand how much of a challenge finishing is to many woodworkers. To that end, we’ll continue to come out with products for our consumers that make finishing more fun, easier and deliver better results.”

Editor's Note: Disclosure: Michael Dresdner is a consultant to the Rustoleum group. The three products featured in this article are a radical departure from items currently on the market and do not directly compete with other finishes.

Work Sharp Wide Blade Attachment: When Size Does Matter

“We’re passionate about making sharpening easier and better,” Kyle Crawford, Product Manager for Work Sharp told me, “and we listen to our customers.”

Wide Blade Attachment
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He’s not kidding. By listening to comments coming from their users, they not only consistently create great tools, like Drill Doctor and Work Sharp, but are always looking for improvements, both in and out of the sharpening realm. For instance, they recently introduced a clever new ratcheting hex wrench set. More on that later, but first, let’s find out about their latest addition to the versatile Work Sharp, a new Wide Blade Attachment.

“When we launched Work Sharp at the end of 2007,” Kyle recounted, “we immediately started listening to customer feedback. It was overwhelmingly positive. Nevertheless, we still asked our customers the question ‘If you could improve it one way, what would it do?’

“The most common answer was ‘make coffee.’ Next, in a more serious vein, was that it have the ability to sharpen wider blades with the same accuracy and ease that Work Sharp brings to chisels and small plane irons. I got together with our engineering team, and at the beginning of this month, we released the Work Sharp Wide Blade Attachment.

“We knew the design intent was to handle blades larger than the current two-inch capacity of the Work Sharp. Although you could use the top tool-rest for wide blades on the original machine, consumers wanted a more precision solution. We began with a flat surface, but knew there was also an opportunity for developing an innovative honing guide to work with it. When we looked at the guides already on the market, we concluded that side clamping offered more consistent results than top clamping types. They offer more consistent edges by preventing the blade from skewing during sharpening.

“However, you also need a registered surface to hold the blade flat. We started with two rods that form registration points to hold the blade flat, but we did not stop there. In order to effectively hold wide but short blades, such as those from spokeshaves, we added flats on the sides of the clamping mechanism. The flats are flush with the top of the rods, allowing you to clamp even blades that are too small to span the inch and a quarter gap of the rods, yet still protrude enough to reach the spinning disk. Those ridges also help stabilize larger blades.

Wide Blade Attachment 2
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“There’s more. The wheels on the honing guide are offset, which allows you to use the two sides to create a much wider range of sharpening angles on one honing guide. The orange side, which corresponds to the orange scale, will sharpen angles from 60 degrees down to 25 degrees. The white side and white scale let you sharpen all the way down to 15 degrees, fine enough for low angle block planes and paring chisels.

“After giving one user an early prototype, he mentioned that he did not want to have to make 72 turns on a threaded rod for clamping the blade. To make clamping faster, we incorporated a quick release lever for the threaded rod. It works similar to the quick release lever on most clamps and bench vises. All you have to do is set the blade on the two rods, press the release, and squeeze. It’s that quick.

“The ‘L’ shaped blade alignment fixture lets you quickly establish the blade in the holder using two different scales, amber and white. Simply set the pin with its arrow facing away from the blade into the hole corresponding to the desired bevel angle. Push the blade forward until it touches the bottom of the rectangular headed pin. That sets the blade for the primary bevel angle. Once you are done sharpening, should you desire a microbevel, simply turn the pin around with the arrow facing toward the blade, reset the blade, and hone again. This creates a one degree microbevel on a 25 degree angle.

“People also mentioned that it would be helpful to have a bevel angle reader so you could figure out the angle on an existing blade. We added that to the side of the alignment fixture so it would always be close at hand. Two key slots on the fixture allow you to mount it to your bench or sharpening area. As an added bonus, the fixture itself forms a try square so you can check your blade squareness during and after sharpening. It puts everything you need for perfect sharpening right at hand in one tool.”

Sounds great, but at what cost? “Our suggested list price is $85, but the street price is often as low $70 at places like Rockler and Amazon.com.” 

Ratcheting Hex Wrench
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I promised you we’d touch on another new offering from these folks, so here it is. “While it is not, strictly speaking, a woodworking tool,” Kyle admitted, “our new Ratcheting Hex Wrench set is one of those tools that people look at and say ‘why didn’t I think of that?’ It just plain makes sense, and makes working in tight quarters, which is where hex nuts are often used, vastly easier.

“Several woodworkers at shows have told me they keep their ratcheting wrenches clinging to their band saws with magnets. That keeps the tool handy for adjusting the blade guides under the table, where there is little room to swing even a hex key. Sets of nine keys are available in both standard and metric versions for $17 list price, but are selling for $10 through some venues. You’ll find them at Sears, Amazon.com and other hardware stores.”

What’s next for this gaggle of creative toolmakers? I have no idea, but judging by how much these folks have impressed me with their other tools, I can’t wait to find out. Personally, I’m hoping they will create an attachment to sharpen kitchen and hunting knives that’s as good and versatile as what they’ve created for woodworking tools. For now, though, I’m content that all my planes, chisels, spoke shaves and shop tools are mirror-sharp. Thanks, guys!

Dispozablade®: You Can Never Go Hone Again

Holding Knife
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I sincerely doubt there is a less enjoyable shop maintenance job than resetting planer and jointer blades. For that reason, most lunchbox planers come with disposable blades. That’s great, but what about those of us that have jointers or larger planers that require us to go through the endless annoyance of removing blades, sending them out for sharpening, then facing the nightmare of trying to reset them accurately? For us, there’s Dispozablade®, a system that is fast, foolproof, and possibly most important, affordable. 

The story of the company is actually the story of two companies, one here and one in Germany. The U.S. portion begins about two decades ago with Aaron Robinson, a sawmill owner who also did millwork and flooring in New York. At the Hanover show in Germany, he stumbled across Esta-Snied, a company that made a replacement knife system for jointers and planers. It piqued his interest, so he went back to the booth the next day and struck up a deal to import the product to the U.S. and set up a distributorship. With that, Dispozablade® was born, though the official company name is Esta-USA, which explains the website URL (www.estausa.com).

Wearing Bracelet
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Because he was busy with his sawmill business, he sought out marketing help from Dave Dean. Eventually, they split the company: Esta imports the products from Germany and sells them to Dave, who sells them through the Dispozablade® company. Aaron takes care of shipping, tariff, money conversion and other import problems, and Dean focuses on selling and representing Dispozablade® to customers.

“I was born and raised in the country in the rural part of New York state,” Dave Dean recounted to me. “My father was a custom home builder, and we built cabinets at home in the evening. After high school I studied architecture at the University of Miami, but wound up in the home building industry. I used to buy lumber from Aaron, and one day at his place, I saw the Dispozablade®  and was amazed by it. Because he was busy with other things, he really wasn’t marketing it well. I decided that something this good deserved wider exposure, because the sad truth is that 90 percent of the machines in this country are run on dull knives, because changing the blades is such a nightmare.

PosiSet
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“The initial German system consisted of a knife carrier and a double-edged disposable knife. At that time, it was still based on the idea that you set the knife with the jackscrews or springs that were in your jointer or plane, but you still had to set the knife. The reason it existed was because the German environmental rules were so strict about how to deal with grinding slurry, it was becoming challenging to run grinding businesses. Hence, the idea of disposable tooling became very appealing.

“Over the past 15 years, we’ve tried to make the system more user-friendly. First came Posi-Set®, about eight years ago. It’s a set of rare earth magnets that take the place of jackscrews or springs as the setting agent. We simply take the measurement from the bottom of the pocket of your knife head slot to the cutting edge of a properly installed knife. From that, we subtract the size of an assembled Dispozablade® system, and make up the difference with Posi-Set® magnets, which can range from twenty thousandths of an inch to half an inch think. Once they are in place, they act as both a referenced bottom and a holder for the knife and holder. All you need do is pop in the knife holder set and tighten the gib screws.

SelfSet
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“About two years ago, Aaron and I we were once again brainstorming about even better ways to set blades. We knew that with some tool heads, the machining of the knife pocket in the head is not necessarily accurate enough, and we needed a way to compensate for that. In addition, we wanted something even easier to use. We came up with Self-Set®.
 
“Most cutterheads are perfectly round because they are turned on a lathe. Since the outside circumference is a constant, Self-Set® takes advantage of that with a knife holder with integral stops built right into the back of the holder. The stops automatically set the blade holder exactly where it needs to be relative to the circumference of the head. Thus, there is no measuring needed, and in most cases, it eliminates the need even for the Posi-Set® magnets. To replace the blade, you remove the blade and holder, flip the blade over to the second sharp side, and pop the holder back into place.

Re-Insert
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“Each time, the locator edge on the holder will set it perfectly. It requires no measurement, and to be blunt, no skill. It comes out perfect every time. That’s just the half of it; there’s also the speed. As fast as you can loosen and tighten gib bolts, you can have perfectly set knives.

“We are the only manufacturer who makes a system that will retrofit into any conventional machine,” Dean insisted. “All the others require that you buy a specialized cutterhead, and that can get very expensive. With us, it’s substantially cheaper. Anyone who owns a jointer or planer in any size from six inches to 30 inches, and wants easy, accurate installation and sharp knives at their beck and call, should have this system. Our customers range from hobby shops to industrial manufacturers.

“We still sell both systems, and there is a reason. Those machines that take an especially heavy knife, usually older industrial machines, work better with the Posi-Set® system. Most popular hobby and small woodworking machines work best with Self-Set®.

“We have dealers throughout North America, but we also sell direct from our website. To make like easier for both us and our customers, the Posi-Set® and Self-Set® versions are the same price. For instance, a setup for a three-knife, six-inch jointer will cost about $223 initially, and a set of replacement double-edge knives, when you need them, will run about 25 dollars. Obviously, that’s a whole lot cheaper than the 600 or 800 dollars that replacement heads would set you back. On top of that, changing a head itself is a huge, difficult, time-eating chore.

“To us, customer service is first and foremost. If our customers have any problems or issues, we work diligently to solve them. The other thing is that we maintain an inventory so that pretty much any order received before 2 p.m. will be shipped the same day. As a result, over 95 percent of our orders are shipped the same day they are received. Naturally, we also maintain an 800 number (800 557-8092) so you can reach us quickly and easily if you do need to speak to someone in person.”

“My advice, though, is to do your research before you buy. If you do, I think you will find that we will give you the most affordable quick-change knife system available.”

GI Woodshop: For Want of a Nail…

Tools
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Richard Ireland, or Reeko to his friends, runs what must certainly be the most unusual woodworking supply company in the country. Two things set it apart from other suppliers of wood and tools: it is a nonprofit, tax-exempt corporation, and it gives away all its products rather than actually selling them. Intrigued? Read on.

Buddy
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“Last October, after my brother was deployed to Iraq,” Reeko recounted, “he started asking me to send him nails, tools, saw blades and all manner of things. In Iraq and Afghanistan, even when you are off-duty, you do not go out into the village for sightseeing, shopping or any other reason. Neither is a user-friendly country. While troops can beg some simple tools from the various American-based contractors if they are lucky, the military does not issue any tools or equipment that is not part of your basic job-related issue. An engineering brigade would have access to such tools, but a regular GI would not. The military is primarily concerned with what they call the four Bs; bombs, bullets, beans and bandages.

 “As luck would have it, I happen to live in Dallas, just two miles from the headquarters of the base exchange. I went to them to find out if they were providing tools and materials in either an online catalog or at the forward area bases. The mini shops they did have focused on things like shaving cream, toothpaste, candy and socks, but not tools.

Shades
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“I had always been under the impression that units could get tools and wood from their headquarters logistics branch, but it turns out that is not the case. Even when such things were available, there was nowhere near enough to go around. In short, there simply was no way to get them, so I started sending my brother what he asked for, and with that, GI Woodshop was born.

Ireland
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“At first I was under the misconception that my brother was talking about off-duty time, and things he and his companions wanted to do as hobbies. After the first shipment I sent, I discovered they were actually building things they needed for everyday use: what the military calls quality of life issues. They were making tables, chairs, equipment racks, gun racks and even outhouses.

“For instance, one popular item is the BRO (Big Red One) Buddy Racks to hang IOTV gear on when not wearing them. (IOTV = Improved Ordnance Tactical Vest). By the time you take your vest, helmet and weaponry off, you’ve removed 80 pounds of equipment. Throw it on the floor and it collects dirt, scratches and scorpions, and they would never completely dry out from the sweat by the next day when they had to put them back on. Clothes hangers would not support the weight, so a sergeant in my brother’s camp came up with a simple design for a rack to hold the gear. It was wonderful, and the guys loved them. The idea spread like wildfire.

Table Decks
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“Another popular and unique item is the portable water shade, developed by a guy over there. This simple shed prevents the large jugs of drinking water they use from boiling in the hot desert sun. That keeps it drinkable and actually saves lives. The problem with each of these things was that no one had the tools and fasteners to build them. They could get wood, but not screws, nails, cutting tools, hammers or paint.

Outhouse
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“As a veteran, whenever I was stationed overseas I always kept my hand in woodworking, and was always the designated base woodworking guy. Overseas, I had access to the base hobby shops but could not get materials I needed. Consequently, I understood the problem my brother and others over there were facing, and decided I should try to do something to help. I also knew I could not do it alone, so I bought a website and set up a nonprofit group that would let others donate money or home store gift cards.

“I print out wish lists that I got emailed to me by GIs overseas through the website, and I try to fill the wish lists with the things I buy with the money and cards. Naturally, there are more requests than donations, so often I will send fasteners and hand tools, but sadly, can’t send as many power tools as are requested. I buy in bulk and come up with creative ways to get as much as possible to as many troops as possible, but I do have to set some priorities. I try to deal with the most critical things first.

Gun Rack
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“A typical package that I box up and send averages around 50 dollars, and that does not include postage. Fortunately, I get a flat rate from the post office, so shipping is economical. I’ve sent boxes over 50 pounds for 11 dollars in postage. Some large tools and items like air conditioners
exceed the size limits for shipping. In many cases, I’ve had to take things apart and ship them in separate packages for the troops to reassemble.

“At present, I do it all myself, though it has been a bit overwhelming. I took a sabbatical from my job, and that has allowed me to devote a lot of  time to this project. I am a member of DAV (Disabled American Veterans), and once they saw what I was doing, they stepped forward to help with money, packing, shipping and even fundraising. It’s great, but we need a lot more help.”

Lectern
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Want to help? Reeko has made it easy by setting up a donate page replete with a PayPal account, though he admits that is not his favorite donation method. “To be honest,” Reeko told me, “the best thing is when people send me gift cards directly from woodworking supply and home improvement stores. Unfortunately, even the big box stores will not let me buy wholesale, so I still have to drive to the stores myself and buy retail, but if you send me a gift card, I can guarantee I will send another shipment out to the troops who need it.

“Being a woodworker myself, I just love woodworkers. I think they are the greatest people in the world, but in order for troops to do something as simple as hanging a picture of their loved ones on the wall, they first have to find a nail, then appropriate a hammer, or use their boot to nail it. Our packages mean a lot to these guys.”

Vintage Delta Parts: Buddy, Can You Spare a Part?

Motor
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John Weber has a website called Weber Woodworking, but if you go there expecting to see his woodworking prowess, you are going to be disappointed. Instead, you will find something that may be far more valuable, at least to us woodworkers: a remarkably handy site where you can buy vintage parts for your old Delta, Delta/Milwaukee and Rockwell/Delta tools. For those of us who have ever tried hunting down parts for discontinued tools, or gone through the grief of hearing a manufacturer tell us they no longer stock parts for a tool we love, this is no small thing.

Widget
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How John went from occasional woodworking to the somewhat unique position of being the "go-to guy" for vintage Delta parts is perhaps even more astounding than the staggering number of parts he currently warehouses. “By training,” John told me, “I am a civil engineer, and worked for Phillips Electronics for about six years after college. After my daughter was born, I chose to be a stay at home father doing hobby woodworking on the side. I used to post regularly on the now extinct Badger Pond message board, but at present, woodworking is currently in hiatus; I’m just too busy. 

“On Badger Pond I had a reputation for machine rebuilding, and had as much interest in that as in actual woodworking. Perhaps because of that, I was contacted in 2002 by someone from Delta looking for someone who might be interested in acquiring obsolete parts. Since I was unemployed at the time, I decided to go into the obsolete parts business.

Fence
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“Before long, I had two tractor trailer loads of parts delivered to my home. My basement, garage, shop and yard were all full. I had parts everywhere, even though I scrapped a lot of parts that I felt were not worth stocking. By the time I would clear some space, the next tractor trailer would show up.

“When Delta was sold to Black and Decker in 2004, they went to a third party service parts supplier. You could no longer call Delta and get them to either send or make the part for you. The third party group did not want to stock as many parts. They wanted to send me 10 tractor trailer loads in 2005. I found some warehouse space and took them. All told, there have been 13 loads so far. I have some very old items, but the bulk of the parts I stock are from the 1980s and newer. I even have some parts, albeit very few, from machines currently in production.

Sander
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“At present, I stock about 5,000 different parts housed in about 10,000 square feet of warehouse. All told, I stock some 300,000 pieces. The warehouse is set up so that most parts are in four foot by four foot boxes, with each labeled as to what is inside. When I get an order, I either remember where things are or I go searching. All the items are listed on an Excel spreadsheet with the original Delta part numbers, which makes it a bit easier to look up what’s needed.

“Oddly enough, I now sell back to Delta. If someone calls them looking for a part that they don’t stock anymore, and it is one of those that Delta knows that I carry, they buy it back from me at wholesale prices and then sell it to their customer. In essence, they are using me as a warehouse so they can continue to supply parts without actually having to maintain the space and personnel needed to do that on-site. As a result, Delta is by far my largest customer.

Pulley
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“In addition to selling back to Delta, I sell direct to anyone who finds me. The primary way people find me is through eBay. I post things on eBay that have a more universal appeal, such as switches, motors and parts that could be used on other machines. Drill press handles are a good example. I’ve probably sold at least 150 of those handles. It’s a standard thread that fits a lot of different tools. While sales to Delta covers my basic overhead, eBay sales cover everything else. Other than these channels, I don’t do any advertising. I’m not really set up to be much bigger, so I don’t have a lot of impetus to spread the word.

“I do have a phone number, but far and away the best way to contact me is through my email address, john@weberwoodworking.com. Frankly, if you need to talk to someone about finding a part, it's better to go through Delta. They are better at turning a description into a part number. If you are not sure what you need, definitely call Delta. The order will still come back to me, but they will act as interpreter to get you from a general description to a specific part number.

Unifence Head
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“Still, coming direct to me can have its advantages. For example, today I have a jointer head listed on eBay that you could buy for $200. If you bought it from Delta, they would charge you $965 plus shipping.
 
“Personally, I feel there’s a lot to be said for buying and keeping old tools. I, for instance, have the lathe I took middle school woodshop on. It’s solid, runs great, and is a beautiful machine.”

Plane Motor
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Beyond the emotional connection we have with our tools and the fact that restoring is considered a very "green" option these days, I was pleased to hear John argue for an even more basic reason to keep the old iron going; quality. 

“Granted, there is sentimentality involved in owning old tools,” John admitted, “but there’s a lot to be said for reusing, rebuilding and restoring old metal. The old tools were built well, built heavily and built to last.”

Now, thanks to him, they can be rebuilt when needed as well.

WoodLINKS USA: Generating woodworkers for the industry

Students
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“Having gone through the education system in America,” lamented Mark Smith, the National Program Director of WoodLINKS here in the US, “I went on to college, because I was told that was what I must do. In fact, I had a great Industrial Arts (IA) program in high school, but it nevertheless carried the onus that what you did there was simply a hobby and had no value beyond that. Never once did anyone ask me if I considered woodworking as a career choice.

Finishing
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“Increasingly, the IA programs in high school are not respected because the education system views them as teaching a hobby rather than real world skills. No Child Left Behind (NCLB) actually makes things worse for IA by encouraging teachers to teach toward academic testing rather than teaching what the local and national community needs. NCLB makes it more difficult for students to take electives like woodworking: there is simply not enough time in their schedule.

“As a result, not only are good people not being steered toward vocational education; they are actively steered away from it. It’s documented that as you remove vocational education from a school system, graduation rates plummet. Meanwhile, only 15 percent of our nation’s students graduate from a four-year college, while the wood industry is screaming for skilled workers.

Girl
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“Fortunately, there is WoodLINKS, an industry driven nonprofit whose goal is to help the education system produce skilled workers for the wood industry, as well as students who want to go on to college for a degree in wood-related fields. We work with high schools, one at a time, showing them that the wood industry is a great one to get involved with, and showing them how to do it.

Blum Machine
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“WoodLINKS actually started in Canada with the realization that industry needed to help education, and that in turn would help industry. Their mindset was not quite as academically slanted as ours, and was more positive toward the industry. Up there, the Canadian government backs WoodLINKS. Here, only industry does.”

WoodLINKS came along a bit too late to help Mark, but he managed to channel his education, and frustration, into helping them. “I got a degree in industrial technology with teacher certification” he recounted, “and became an Industrial Arts teacher. I taught for 13  years, but it was a constant battle. I saw cases where high school counselors actually told students, in so many words, that woodworking was not a worthwhile endeavor to pursue.

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“I knew that if my own program was going to be successful and relevant, I had to get industry involved and get the local school system involved. I also knew that if I could get industry involved, I could win over the school system. Everywhere I went, I made contacts with industry people; I networked, and started developing an industry support system. That meant that if I had a technical question, I or my students could contact a company and get a real world answer, and we had constant contact via the web, email and by phone.

“At least once a year, I would attend an industry trade show. In 1999, the year WoodLINKS first came down to the U.S. from Canada, I met Jerry Finch staffing their booth at the show. WoodLINKS seemed to share my vision, so I told them I wanted to get involved. They invited me to go to [the International Woodworking Fair]  in the summer of 2000, where I was first exposed to just how high-tech the wood industry had become. It also validated what I always believed: that the wood industry is a good career choice.

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“In order to get kids to see what the woodworking industry really is, WoodLINKS offers both curriculum guidelines and certification based on those guidelines. They also encourage students to get internships and higher education in the field. I wanted my school to be part of that, which meant I had to agree to get involved in WoodLINKS and pay a one-time site license fee of five thousand dollars. I was hooked, and soon became a WoodLINKS teacher. Then in June of 2007, I became the National Director.

“Their site license agreement ensures the teacher gets up-to-date training to familiarize students about the current conditions, processes and careers in the wood industry. When you come on board, they offer the school a $120,000 donation package in the form of software, hardware, materials and teaching tools. That’s a pretty hefty immediate return on a five grand investment.

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“For instance, one of our supporters, Fastcap, essentially sends us whatever we ask for to be used in the classroom free of charge. Other companies offer free wood, veneer, tools, software and a host of things that schools can’t normally get because of limited budgets, and it is all supported by the industry. They even pay for teachers to fly down to IWF, attend classes, and so on. Some of the companies supporting WoodLINKS include such familiar names as Mastercam, Microvellum, Fastcap, Franklin Adhesives, Hafele, Festool, Rikon, Veneer Tech, Thermwood, ShopBot, Stiles and many others, in addition to major industry show organizers such as TSI Expos, IWF [International Woodworking Fair] and AWFS [Association of Woodworking and Furnishings Suppliers].

“For their part, WoodLINKS requires proof of students getting placed in jobs, internships and post secondary education. The teacher is also encouraged to put out a newsletter that goes to students, industry partners, and to WoodLINKS. What we are encouraging is a dynamic shift in how industry and education work together. At present, it seems that industry and education simply do not understand or communicate with one another.

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“We’d like to affect the public and education system’s perspective, and that ultimately means affecting the government’s view as well, because it is the government that runs the education system. At the moment, we are surviving without their direct involvement, but we descend upon Washington once a year to meet with legislators and government officials to talk about what we think is important.

“Of course, no teacher knows everything. Any woodworker, professional or hobby level, knows things that the local IA teacher does not. To make use of that, local hobby and professional woodworkers will often come in and teach various techniques to our students. WoodLINKS encourages that by helping the teachers develop this local support network, helping them find the right people, and showing them how to make those contacts. Many hobby woodworkers, like your readers, contact us to see how they can help once they find out about us.” 

Want to get involved? You can log on to the website, find a teacher in your area and offer to teach what you know, or you can email Mark at woodlinksusa@netcare-il.com.

Uneeda Enterprizes Inc.: Rough Products for Smooth Results

Uneeda Enterprises Their name may not be quite as well known as some of their competitors, but many people who have found out about the sandpaper and related abrasives sold by Uneeda Enterprizes Inc swear by both the company and its products. To get a line on the company and a bit of its history, I had a chat with the president, Bruce Fuchs.

“The company was founded by my father, Herman Fuchs, in 1967,” Bruce told me, “and he is still the chairman today. I became president, handling day-to-day operations, after working there for more than a decade. My father Herman had a background in woodworking, as did his father, a woodworker who came over from Eastern Europe in the late '50s, finished school here and got a job with a company that sold abrasives.

Woodworking “Herman hooked up with the Ekamant product line, a Swedish company that has manufactured products specifically for woodworking since 1927. Uneeda is now the exclusive distributor for Ekamant in North America. Prior to 1967, Ekamant had no presence in the United States, but Herman felt the quality was very good and he felt the woodworking niche was one that was comfortable for him.

“When Herman started the business, he was working out of his uncle’s facility, which manufactured store fixtures. The store fixture company was called Uneeda, though I don’t know why or where the name came from. He incorporated under the name Uneeda Enterprizes to distinguish it from the store fixture business, but they continued to share some facilities. Back in those days, there was a Uneeda doll company, a Uneeda biscuit company – it was not an unusual name.” In fact, if you Google ‘Uneeda Enterprises, with an ‘s’ instead of a ‘z,’ you get an entirely unrelated company that sells cleaning products.

Narrow Belts “Our current headquarters are in Spring Valley north of Manhattan in a 60,000 square foot facility with about 100 employees handling thousands of products. In terms of manufacturing, we import master rolls of abrasives and convert them into wide belts, narrow belts, discs, sheets, bushes, mops, sanding sponges and even non-woven abrasive pads. Four warehouses around the country support the distribution network and drop ship to customers directly.”

Discs I asked Bruce what was different about the sandpaper he sells. “Our paper contains a more consistent abrasive that yields a higher quality finish,” he explained, “and the paper lasts longer as well. Ekamant uses the best quality grit, resins and backings, and their manufacturing technology allows them to be extremely consistent, resulting in very high quality abrasive products. The proof is in the pudding; some of the largest kitchen cabinet and hardwood floor manufacturers are using our products, and it is not because we are less expensive. We sell to some of the biggest names in the industry in cabinets, flooring and furniture.

Sheets “One of our newest products, for instance, is our UAOFR sanding discs, sold under the rubric Ruby Red. Until recently, abrasives were either cloth-backed or paper-backed. Within the past decade or so, people started putting grit onto polyester film backings. The problem with cloth is that because it is woven, it has peaks and valleys. That means the grit is not at as consistent a height. On a smoother surface, like paper or film, the grit tips are more consistent, which gives you a more consistent scratch pattern. When disc sanding, the film gives you the strength of cloth with the superior finish quality of paper. Film is much stronger than paper, and is less likely to tear. In short, it offers the advantages of both, giving you both a more consistent scratch pattern and longer abrasive life.

“Through the years, we’ve sold to all aspects of the market, but we don’t sell through retail stores: only to industrial suppliers. We focus primarily on industrial manufacturers and distributors who in turn sell to the industry. At present, we have dozens of distributors around the country, but aside from our website, all our marketing is direct. The best way to find a local distributor is to contact us directly via our toll-free number. If there’s no distributor in your area, we’ll sell direct. Our minimum order to buy direct is 100 dollars. While any shop can buy from us directly, most small shops are likely to go through one of our distributors, who also tend to carry other supplies for the woodworking market.

Sponges“Recently, we opened an online store which will sell to anyone, including individual hobby woodworkers. The store offers discontinued or overstocked products at bargain prices. That’s the only thing we sell online. Everything else is sold through our distribution network.

“The fact that we don’t sell in small packaging – our smallest package is 100 disks – often turns off small users. The sad thing is that if you look at price when buying in the sort of bulk we sell, the price per sheet is vastly cheaper than what most hobby woodworkers are used to paying at their local home improvement store.” Over time, it would be much cheaper to invest in boxes, since sandpaper does not go bad the way most finishes do.

Brushes I asked Bruce what sets Uneeda apart from other abrasives suppliers. “We sell only one superior quality level of abrasive,” Bruce pointed out, “no matter where you buy it. That’s not necessarily true for the entire industry. Some companies sell different qualities of papers to different buyer markets.

“If our sort of quality matters to you, contact us and we’ll direct you to our nearest distributor. You won’t find us at the local Lowe's® or Home Depot, but once you find us, it’s easy to buy from us, and we think you’ll appreciate the difference.”

Vermont Natural Coatings: Say Cheese for a New 'Whey' to Finish

VNC Floor Can“If life gives you lemons,” goes the popular expression, “make lemonade.” That sort of resourcefulness seems to be at work for Andrew Meyer. Life gave him whey, a waste byproduct of the cheesemaking process, and believe it or not, he uses it to make waterbased wood finishes at a company called Vermont Natural Coatings. Before you ask, no, the finishes do not smell like cheese.

“I grew up on my family’s organic dairy farm in Vermont,” Andrew told me, “which is currently managed by my two younger brothers. Organic means you can’t use antibiotics, herbicides, pesticides or synthetic fertilizers on crops the animals eat. Also, the animals must be pasture fed and can’t be kept in confined areas. In northeast Vermont, there is still a strong agriculture community and a movement to develop a healthy food system in an economy that is based on food and agriculture. We’re part of that. 

Cow “I took environmental studies at University of Vermont, got a job in the department of agriculture, then worked in Washington, DC for Senator Jim Jeffords advising on agricultural policy. While I was there in the late 1990s, the food science department of the University of Vermont came to the senator asking for funding for research into using whey, a byproduct of cheese making, to create waterbased finishes for wood.

“As a staffer, I was helping assess the validity of the requests, including this one. Senator Jeffords was interested in whatever would benefit a diverse agricultural economy, since Vermont agriculture couldn’t compete with the giant farms of the Midwest. We needed to diversify, and this seemed like a great fit, because in addition to our farms, we have a strong tradition of woodworking. It took the researchers about five years to come up with a patented product they felt was viable.”

Why whey? “Whey is a by product of cheesemaking,” Andrew explained. “When you press cheese, the liquid that comes out is whey, which consists of water, fats and proteins not captured by the cheesemaking process. We take the whey, isolate the proteins and add them to a waterbased formulation. They form a very strong binding agent which can replace some of the binders that are typically added to wood finish.

Kitchen “It’s the whey that contributes so heavily to the durability of our finishes. Lab testing shows that our whey-based finishes have superior durability compared to some of the other waterbased finishes in the field. For the user, our coatings dry within about two hours and have a neutral odor that most users find essentially nonexistent.”

I asked him how this is different from the milk paint we have all heard about. “We’ve found that whey protein simply makes a stronger binding agent than casein, which is at the heart of milk paint. The upshot is you get a substantially more durable coating. Of course, casein-based milk paint is not clear. Our whey-based coatings are.    

“In 2004, I moved back to Vermont and negotiated an exclusive license to manufacture and sell these finishes. One of our owners is one of the original researchers who came up with this formula, and one employee is a formulator from the coatings industry.

“We built a facility in Hardwick in 2006 and developed a processing line to create and package the finish under the parameters of the patent. Though we are large enough to be a significant player in the field, we are also a small enough company to make custom finishes for furniture makers. A lot of furniture companies have unique spray applications that they are unwilling to change, and we can formulate to fit their needs and desires.

Low VOC “In general, the wood coatings industry is shifting toward safer finishing products. The challenge is to create products that actually work as well as their predecessors. The advantage we have is that our finish is performing at such a high level that it is considered a high performance product. Our coatings flow out well, dry quickly and, thanks to a high solids content, may require fewer coats than some other traditional finishes.

“We currently offer clear floor finish in satin and semi-gloss, and furniture finish in satin, semi-gloss and gloss. Like most waterbased coatings, ours dries crystal clear and will not yellow over time. You can put it over either oil-based or waterbased stains, and over other finishes, including older existing finishes. For instance, you could, after good cleaning and mild abrasion, use it to recoat kitchen cabinets.

“From the homeowner to the contractor, one thing we hear consistently is that the finish applies very well and easily with brushes, paint pads, lamb’s wool and, of course, any type of spray equipment. Our coatings are perfect for people who do their own finishing of both furniture and floors, and we sell to homeowners, woodworkers and contractors.

Bar “There are currently about 45 stores in 13 states around the country selling our coatings, and we are actively looking for more dealers. Often you can find us at stores that specialize in ecologically sound products, but more and more we are finding non-chain lumberyards and hardware stores more interested in carrying our greener line of products. In a pinch, you can always order direct from the website.

“At present, we are a small company with just five employees, and we want to maintain our presence in rural Vermont and create jobs here. However, we also want to make sure Vermont Coatings are available throughout North America for those who want finishes that smell better, are less harmful and are easier to apply. We’ll grow to whatever size we need to be to serve our market without getting too large to stay in touch with what our customers want.

“We’re a new product; try it,” suggests Andrew. “We want you to experience what it is like using Vermont Natural Coatings, and we think you’ll walk away feeling as excited about whey-based finishes as we are.”

Traditional Woodworker: Timber!

Throwing AxeEver get the unbridled urge to buy a throwing axe, and wonder just where one would go for such an item? Turns out there is a company that sells them, along with broad axes, splitting mauls, commanders, froes, scorps, adzes, peaveys, cant hooks, log saws, bark spuds, plumb bobs . . . you get the idea. The company is called, appropriately enough, Traditional Woodworker, and they boast a lot of gear we often think of as less than modern. What’s almost as curious as their stock is the fact that the store was started by a laid-off banker, and even that was his second career.

Tenon Cutter “My first career was as a finish carpenter in Sweden,” explained owner Erik Edstrom. “The trades are not as specialized in Sweden as they are here, so a carpenter was expected to do everything from setting rebar to building cabinets. When there is not enough work doing what you prefer, you have to be prepared to do pretty much anything, and inevitably, you end up outside pouring concrete foundations in the cold. I did not like that, so I went back to school, became a banker and moved to the U.S. to take a banking job here.

Cant Hook “I was made redundant from my banking job about six years ago, and along with my wife, who had been in marketing and advertising, decided to open a store. I did not want to go through the trauma of relying on someone else for my job. I wanted to be in charge of my own destiny, so we took a gamble and plunged all our savings into starting the company.

Hookeroon “Since I knew the field of woodworking, we decided to stick with that, and set out to find a niche that the larger woodworking specialty store chains did not exploit. We originally chose the name Traditional Woodworker to reflect our desire to carry hand tools, such as planes, rasps and spokeshaves, but the name works nicely for log and green wood tools as well.

“We have a storefront in Texas, a catalog and a website. You can buy from any of the three, and I’m happy to say, the business is growing. We don’t expect to go into power tools, but we’ll certainly expand into anything else that fits. What sets us apart from most of the other woodworking catalogs and stores is our wide selection of axes and log working tools. For instance, we probably have the best selection of drawknives in the U.S.

“It’s not just variety, though, but quality that we focus on. We’ve deliberately brought in European brands rather than Asian ones because I feel they offer not only better quality, but better value for the money. The price may be higher initially, but you will get better use and a longer life from the tool, so it becomes cheaper in the long run.

Bark Spud“Take a Forstner bit, for example. A cheap Chinese bit may cost a quarter of what a high quality bit will cost, but after five holes it is dull. In contrast, a good quality German bit may go 20 times as long before it dulls. You end up being able to do better work with better tools as well as working them longer. Ironically, drill bits are one item where we offer an inexpensive alternative for those who need a one- or two-time use tool, but in our catalog, they are the exception rather than the rule.

Oxhead “Some of our tools are a bit unusual, even for woodworkers. We carry throwing axes, for instance, because they are made by the company whose regular axe line we carry. Axe throwing is a popular hobby among many of the same people who use axes for work.

Crosscut Saw “Typically, we sell to people who have decided to build something the old-fashioned way, often as a matter of principle rather than expediency. For instance, someone who decides to build a log cabin, a storage shed or even furniture will need material handling tools that are very different than what you may have in your shop. A good example is a cant hook or peavey, which is about four and a half feet long with a hickory handle. At the end there’s an iron hook that goes around a log, and you use the handle to roll the log. A hookeroon is also used to move logs; it is an axe handle with a sharp hook on the end. You swing it, jam the sharp point into the end of a log, then use it to drag the log.

Commander “If you are making log furniture, you might turn to a tenon cutter, which is like a giant pencil sharpener. For those handling firewood, we offer old-fashioned one- and two-man crosscut saws and splitting mauls. If you need to split wood more precisely, or make shingles, a froe is the tool of choice, paired with a wooden mallet.

Froe “Bark spuds and draw knives are the tools of choice to remove the bark from a log. To square up or shape logs, you’d go to a broad axe and an adze. Once you have shaped the logs and their ends, a commander, which is a huge mallet, is used to coax the logs into position. Typically it weighs about eight and a half pounds. Of course, you could also use it for setting tent pins in the circus.”

Maul While you may not be in the market for a circus-sized mallet, Traditional Woodworker nevertheless offers a delightful romp through the tools that our forebears knew well. Truth be told, there are a lot of good reasons to renew their acquaintance.

Painter’s Pyramid: Sometimes a Great Notion

PyramidSometimes great inventions emerge out of little frustrations. That was the case with Michael Bucci, the inventor of a simple, versatile, stackable, colorful and astonishingly helpful little tool called the Painter’s Pyramid. Don’t let its modest looks fool you. Though it is merely a small, hollow plastic shell with three holes, it has helped countless finishers save time and annoyance, and freed its inventor from a corporate cubicle.

"The Painter's Pyramid allows you to paint all sides of an object in one session," Michael explained. "Coat one side of your piece, flip it over, and rest it on the points of the pyramid. The pyramid base gives it stability, and the fact that it is made of a specially formulated high density plastic means wood finishes won't stick to it. As a result, the pyramids are easy to clean if you do get drips or overspray on them, and they can't stick to the underside of the wet piece. The plastic is strong and chemical resistant. The pyramids can hold an object up to 200 pounds and resist most finishing solvents without being harmed. The tip is slightly rounded so that unlike sharp pointed nails, it won't damage the wood, even with softwood.

"Each side has a hole so you can tie them down with a strap through the holes, or mount a series of pyramids on a five-eighths-inch dowel. A strip of pyramids on a dowel are perfect for holding long moldings. Even if you are not painting the back side, propping the molding allows you to paint all the way to the edge without it ending up stuck onto your bench with paint.

Yellow "The base is open so that they can stack, not only for storage, but also as a means of creating a taller pyramid by stacking. That lets you get the piece higher, or even set it on an angle by using taller ones on one side. Taller pyramid stacks are handy even when you are not painting. In fact, they are ideal for gluing a case together. Stand the case on pyramids and you have clearance for the clamps even below the bottom board, and glues won't stick to them either. We offer them in the primary colors and pink because people like choices, and some colors are easier to spot on the shop floor, should you drop one."

How did this clever little product come about? "After getting a degree in manufacturing engineering," Michael recounted, "I went to work for General Electric, then went back to business school, became a management consultant, and moved to the financial industry. During that time I went back and got another degree in information technology.

"One day I was finishing some unfinished bookshelves at home and was intending to put two coats of primer and two coats of paint. I quickly got tired of painting one side, going through the dubious joy of cleaning up, then waiting overnight before I could paint the other side.

"Of course, I knew about nail boards; a board with nails through it so that the wet, painted object sits on the nail points. However, I had twenty shelves to paint, and I did not want to waste twenty boards by driving nails into them and tying them up while the paint dried. Instead, I grabbed a piece of four by four and made a whole mess of wood pyramids on my miter saw. I knew I needed a small contact point and a stable base, and the pyramid was the ideal shape.

Pink "I tried them out and they worked like a charm. They left a tiny but insignificant mark, one I could live with, and they saved me a whole lot of time. I liked it so much I decided to patent it. I thought it would be neat to have my own patent, but at the time had no immediate plans to exploit it.

"About six months later ,I was working in a financial services company when they decided to dissolve my department. On the one hand, I had this cool new product, and on the other hand I had no job. If they had not fired me, Painter's Pyramid might still be an unused patent languishing in a drawer, but that was not the only coincidence that contributed to the pyramid coming to fruition.

"I went to a patent firm in town, but before I could get the papers filed, the attorney I spoke to left the firm. The other partner was vastly more expensive and I was not sure I wanted to spend that much for the patent. As luck would have it, that morning I got an email from a frat brother from college whom I had not spoken to in 15 years. We got together and I discovered he was now a patent attorney. He ended up doing the patent work.

"We launched the pyramid at the National Hardware show, which is one million square feet of boxes piled everywhere. I was climbing through trying to find where my booth was supposed to be when I stumbled across a company that sold paint products. A guy in the booth looked up and said 'Mike?' He was the quarterback from my old high school football team. His company became one of the first to carry the Painter's Pyramid.

"These days you can buy them from woodworking specialty stores or direct from the website. Bought in packs of four, they cost about a dollar apiece, but they get much cheaper as you buy them in larger volumes. For example, if you by them by the gross, 144 at a time, the cost is cut in half.

"Don't be surprised to see some new products coming out. One item on the drawing board is a turntable with built-in movable pyramids that's ideal for spray finishing virtually any size or shape object up to 200 pounds."

If this sounds like just the solution you've been waiting for, you are not alone. "We introduced Painter's Pyramid only a year and a half ago," Michael told me, "and already have sold over two and a half million. So to all the woodworkers out there, thank you for being so receptive to my invention. It's allowed me to escape my corporate cubicle and spend my time with pyramids instead."


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