Web Surfer's Review

Lipstick on Your Collar

"My normally fine cutting 1" Lenox carbide band saw blade has developed signs of a tooth out of alignment: a characteristic periodic gouge in the resawn board. Can you think of an easy way to find and fix this, or am I going to have to remove the blade and inspect each tooth relative to its neighbors with a straightedge?" -- Tom

The following advice was given in response to this question at an online message board. Obviously, what is being suggested is rather dangerous. Please do not take our reporting this as our recommendation. It is not. We would not put our fingers that close to a running band saw blade, and don't think you should either. If we were going to try this at all, we'd use wooden tongs to hold the lipstick, and would remove it from the metal tube first. Better yet, we'd use the tongs to hold a grease pencil, which would safely cut in half if it came in contact with the band saw blade. Still, we are just reporting, so read on. – Editor

Try lipstick first. With the saw running, very, very, very slowly advance the lipstick toward the side of the teeth. Watch the lipstick for the first hint of a saw mark. If the problem is with one tooth, there should be a tooth with a smidgen of grease on the tip. – Al

Of course, such suggestions are bound to bring out the jokesters, such as those in the next two responses. – Editor

Genius! Now, I need to know if I use the Pink Lady or Vivid Raspberry. I am wearing blue jeans with simple flats and a white tee. – Tom

Why does Al have lipstick? I know we tend to solve our problems with the tools we have. "If you only have a hammer all your problems start to look like nails." Perhaps you should be glad Al did not have warming gel. – Barry

But things soon returned to the serious and anecdotal. – Editor

Actually, lipstick is good for hanging doors. After you install the knob set you touch lipstick to the striker and close the door. The lipstick will mark the doorframe for exact location to drill the hole for the strike plate. Also good for telling where something is binding. Lipstick will transfer to anything that touches. Got a tube in my shop. – George

One wintry morning in the late 50's, I had occasion to fly a Cessna out of Alton, Illinois, in a search for a missing plane and pilot. It was bitter cold, and the Cessna had been hangered for several weeks. I preflighted the aircraft carefully, and got in with another pilot, his wife and an observer. The engine barely turned over, and we were surprised that it started. While it came up to temperature, we tested the controls and discovered that we could not easily move the yoke in and out; thus our elevator control was impaired. The pilot's wife had a lipstick which was used to grease the bar the yoke was mounted on, and that enabled normal movement of the yoke through the grommet in the instrument panel. The lipstick did not complement the aircraft interior, but it did get us in the air. – George

You might check visually right where the welded joint is. I don't have carbide-tipped blades, but when I have issues with the standard blades, they usually are near the weld. – Grant

Hand Plane versus Jointer

from WoodCentral

"It occurred to me that, when I read reviews of jointers, a common criticism is that the jointer bed is too short, theoretically limiting the length of the board that can be flattened. If this really is a limiting factor, how is it that you are able to flatten a long board using hand planes?" – Wilbur

Several pointed out that the job is not all that hard if you have helpers, either alive or dumb, for added end support. – Editor

"The problem with powered surface planers (jointers) is not that they won't flatten long boards because the tables are too short. The difficulty is more to do with balancing the board on the tables at the beginning and end of each cut. This involves laws of physics, mechanical advantage and moments about a point and all that sort of stuff. In practice, but with help of one sort or another, 20' planks can be flattened on a short-bed machine. The help required usually comes in the form of a nimble-footed but knowledgeable helper to balance the board at the beginning and end of each cut. An alternative is to precisely set up rollers at either end of the machine to support the wood at the beginning and end of the cut, thus effectively increasing the length of the tables. Hand planes are the opposite: small and light and easily balanced on the fixed piece of wood. It sounds like you already know how to get large planks flat with these, so there's no need for me to go over the details." – Sgian

"My record on a 6" jointer was straightening a 16' x 8" piece of 8/4 red oak for a hand rail for a store. It took two people -- one to push and one to hold the outfeed end up. It was a lot faster than doing it with a hand plane. It is not uncommon to have to mow 1/2" off portions of an edge to get a long piece straight. It can be done with a hand plane, slowly, but I don't see a hand plane replacing my jointer." – Bill

"Bill points out a critical factor in straightness, and it has nothing to do with the width of the jointer, except that wider jointers are usually longer as well. The old-timers knew that you could rig up an outfeed table to a short-bed jointer and extend its usefulness in straightening long boards. For my part, I had a 10" Inca jointer/planer in my shop before the fire, and I built a 4' outfeed table for it. I was able to routinely joint 14' boards and timbers on this odd setup and get near perfectly straight surfaces." – Ellis

"One of the local hardwood suppliers has tables built onto their jointer that extend a good 6' in front and in back. Doesn't all need to be cast iron." – Glen

Must it be either one or the other? – Editor

"I have had the experience of working with figured wood on a jointer and having terrible tearout. I have a 22" hand jointer plane, and I use it often to clean up a machine edge if I am looking for a fine fit on a panel glue-up. You need to know your wood and how it responds to both a machine jointer and hand jointing, and in some cases using them together can give you a superior result." – Jim

"Back when I had muscles, I was pretty good with a hand plane. I could take crooked, cupped lumber and straighten it out using not much more than a string, a level and maybe winding sticks. Once I got one side flattened, I could go around with a marking gauge and make a nice parallel plank. However ,it was hard sweaty work, and it took time. A jointer will accomplish more in the line of straightening and stock removal in a half hour than a powerful 30-year-old with hand tools could do in day. The machine knife ripple you can never quite eliminate comes right up with a hand or cabinet scraper. In recent years, I've seldom done any major lumber prep using a hand plane. I use a plane mostly as an adjunct with my woodworking machines. My usual reason for hand planing after I got a jointer and a planer was that it showed me where the locked-in strains lay and any funny grain that was present before I put the machines to it. In my opinion, hand tool users are the salt of the earth, but they're missing a good productivity bet by not using planers and jointers for lumber prep. OTOH, maybe that's why they avoid power tools. It gives them more time to work with the wood." – Forrest

"There is something very satisfying about using a hand plane to face and edge joint a board true, but man does it take forever. The few minutes I get in the shop just don't allow anything but the speediest methods." – Nick

For some, hand planes have the edge. – Editor

"Though slower, a hand plane has the advantage of being able to take off just enough if you're trying to conserve thickness or width. Power jointers use much larger increments, so you can end up being a 16th less than what you're shooting for. A minor point, I admit, but one guy I worked for was pretty particular about keeping tabletops at thirteen-sixteenths." – John

Labels versus Memory

from WoodCentral

To label or not to label, that is the question, and the answers may surprise you. – Editor

"I'm putting on drawer fronts on my shop drawers. As there will eventually be a total of 17 drawers on that wall, the subject of labeling drawers came up. So, labeling: yes, no or haven't really thought about it?" – JL

Some label. – Editor

"I labeled mine with masking tape and a Sharpie®. It's been almost 10 years now since I did this, the masking tape is getting transparent now, so they will be falling off in the next few years. I think I've got them memorized now." – Dale

Most don't. – Editor

"I know where all my stuff is without labels. The only reason I have any drawers labeled is so my Dad can find things." – Pat

"Several months ago, I finally got around to building drawers and cabinets in my shop. At first I was going to label everything, but didn't get around to it right away and discovered that I really didn't need to. I nearly always know where everything is." – Ron

For at least one, bad labels make good exercise. – Editor

"I built a 32-drawer storage unit along one wall of my shop. They all look the same and aren't labeled. I often go to the wrong drawer for what I'm looking for, and it takes a couple of tries, but at least I don't have to squat and squint to find the right one. The searches are good mental exercises." – Clint

This one insists memory works best without a net. – Editor

"I'd only label the infrequently used ones, if I labeled any at all. I find that if I write stuff down my brain decides that it's not important: if I don't write stuff down, I have much quicker recall." – Curly

Finally, there's the inevitable "drawers" joke. – Editor

"Mine say Fruit of The Loom or sometimes Hanes." – Ken

Physics: 1; Woodworkers: 0

from WoodCentral

Summer seems to bring out the whimsy in all of us. Take a look at this woeful tongue-in-cheek exchange, and you will see what we mean. – Editor

"After years of research, I have concluded that glue, any type, has the ability to change the physical nature of wood, sometimes quite a bit. My research is based upon the phenomenon I observe during complex glue-ups of projects. I will dry fit test an assembly, sometimes more than once, and everything will come together quite nicely. I will prepare myself with open clamps and even rehearse the clamping so I know just how the clamps need to be applied. Then, when totally ready, I apply the glue and proceed with the glue -up. This is where, before my very eyes, the same assembly that fit together beautifully 20 minutes earlier now cannot possibly seem to come together without frantic pounding with a mallet and tremendous torque of the clamp handles, along with a mad dash for more and more clamps. There appears to be no obvious explanation." – Tom

Sympathy for this cruel yet seemingly widespread phenomenon abounds, and others shared their sad stories. – Editor

"Yes! Hey, I've even had the grain change direction. I KNOW I matched the panels up so they looked good together and the cathedrals were all going the same direction. Then just about the time the tenons locked into the mortises, THEY CHANGED DIRECTION!" – Larry

"You got it, Tommy! I thought that only happened to me! Titebond® and the others should put a warning label on the glue bottles that says Caution: this product may move your mortises and change the grain direction if used according to directions." – Jesse

Others shared explanations of the curious happening. – Editor 

"Most recent research shows that wood indeed has memory, Tommy. The wood cells remember how nice everything was up until the time they were attacked with sharp objects, buzz and band saws, and beaten into submission. Naturally, the wood movement you complain about during glue-up is wood's natural retaliation. It is getting back at you. To complain about it is, well, like de-barking up the wrong tree."
- George 

"You are right! I've been looking at it all wrong. This is not a physics problem, this is a biology problem! Thank you for scientifically enlightening me." – Tom

"All of your observations can be readily explained by Maxwell's Demon. Maxwell's Demon resides in all woodworking joints decreasing the entropy of the joint, grain orientation, tenon size or mortise size in any perfect dry-fit joint. Thermodynamically speaking, this doesn't make sense, but who can argue with your direct observation?" – Jim

Some postulated equally absurd and therefore thoroughly appropriate solutions.  – Editor

 "I think that I will start freezing all the 'male' components, and putting all the 'female' components in a heated oven. Works on all British motorcycles. Don't see why it wouldn't work on my wood projects. What do you think?" – Bill

"Solution to all fit problems: a bigger hammer." – Basil

Finally, one person described how he effectively dealt with a project in which the wood just refused to obey. – Editor

The Dadonator: Judgement Day

from WoodCentral

On a more serious note, someone asked about Infinity saw blades, a thread that caught our eye because we had just spoken to those folks. Here's what the denizens of WoodCentral have to say about them. – Editor

"I'm in the last stretch of resettling here in Brisbane, and I will be ordering a PM2000 tomorrow. Then I'm going to need some saw blades. I've seen good reviews of the Infinity Dadonator dado set, but has anyone used their other saw blades and have any comments? Reason I ask is that there is a good package including the Dadonator set available. Thanks." – Mark

Nothing but good comments followed. – Editor

"I use their router bits and the thin-kerf ripper. I have had excellent results with their products. The Dadonator looks impressive. Hope this helps; enjoy your new saw!" – Patrick

"I, too, have the thin kerf rip blade. Have been well pleased with it. Quiet and smooth cuts." – Bill

"I've been using the 50T Combomax TK for much of the summer and am really pleased with it. Very comparable to other top-line blades like Forrest, Ridge Carbide and Tenryu Gold. The router bits I've used are very impressively made, too. Some of their package deals are pretty attractive. Keep your eyes peeled for specials, too. Their recent Father's Day incentives were great deals." –  Scott

They must have convinced him, because he came back and posted this. – Editor

"Thanks, everyone. I just ordered a combo kit plus an additional dedicated rip blade. It seems to be the best deal going at the moment here." – Mark

To learn more about Infinity, sidle on over to the Tool Maker Insider segment of this issue. – Editor

Rags to Riches, or the Other Way Around

from Woodcentral

"I've always kept a box in our linen closet where I toss old pieces of clothing to use as rags. I was wondering how suitable they might be to use for finishing. Although most are cotton, there are things that have nylon or some other synthetic in them. Would rags from colored or dyed cloth or rags that are not 100 percent cotton be useful for finishing?" – Wilbur
 
It was a good question, but only one person answered it directly.  Several others offered their method for acquiring rags, or described what they use instead. – Editor
 
"I find that most of the synthetics and blends have absorbency issues I don't like, so I don't use them. At your local Target or similar, in the auto section, you can buy a bundle of 100 percent cotton fine finishing cloths for about $6. Can't wait for the grandkids to wear out T-shirts that fast at that price." – Glenn

"Another excellent source for rags is the secondhand store. You can pick up a bunch of T-shirts for just a few cents each." – Tom

"If you have any commercial T-shirt screen printers in your area, sometimes they will sell their rejects very cheap." – Tom

"I used to get them from a couple of sources. One was a commercial linen service that sold rags by the pound. The other was a guy who collected all the clothes that weren't good enough for the thrift store. He would wash and sell them as rags pretty cheap." – Tom

Not everyone uses cloth towels, though. – Editor

"Viva® paper towels. I'd cut them into quarter sheets, cut off the perforated edges, fold the quarter towel to a nice size, and they worked great. I used to have a plastic container full of quarter sheets of Viva towel in the shop." – Dale

"I use blue Scott brand paper shop towels to apply wipe-on polyurethane. They work great. I have noticed, however, that they don't like alcohol, so they tend to disintegrate with shellac." – Tom

"I apply stains and finishes with small chunks of nylon abrasive pads; the gray when a bit of abrasion would be helpful and white when it is not. The pads stay wet longer, don't wick water, hold more finish, and manipulate thicker materials, like gels, more easily. I wipe off with those blue Scott paper shop towels. They are cheap enough to throw away so I won't try to save them and risk wiping a clean surface with a rag that had come in contact with wax or oil." – Michael

But for one unfortunate reader, the whole subject was most painful. – Editor. 

Routing MDF: Mild-mannered or Metal Menace?

from Women in Woodworking

"My contractor, along with another woodworking friend ,has suggested that we use MDF for all the baseboards and trim in our home, though both agreed that it would not be a good idea to use in the wet areas. Both have said that using a router on it is a dream. Then I read a disagreeing post regarding MDF and am wondering what gives." – Bwamer

"MDF is medium-density fiberboard. Essentially, it is glue and sawdust compressed under great pressure to make a sheet like plywood. It cannot handle moisture. It swells wildly. It is very smooth and flat and makes good molding, and is easy to paint. It is pretty heavy; a three-quarter-inch thick 4'x8' runs upwards of 115 pounds. As for using the router, yes, it is an ideal tool for MDF, but you will make lots of dust that is harmful to breathe. Respiratory protection is a must." – Carol

"As Carol said, MDF works well for painted trim. If you need trim in damp places or where it will get wet, like the kitchen from mopping, MDO might work better. MDO uses moisture-resistant glue to help prevent the swelling." – John

That sounded encouraging, with everyone more or less in agreement, but then someone posted a warning with a completely opposite view, echoing a commonly held belief among woodworkers. – Editor

"Actually, MDF is terrible on routing tools. It is made from scrap wood and pallets ground to fine dust. The pallets are used nails and all, and there is a pretty high metal content in MDF, so it dulls tools quickly. Add to that the dust and mess from routing along with the difficulty painting it, and I think poplar is a far better choice for trim work." – Ralph

Ah, yes, the old question. Are there ground-up nails and old pallet wood in MDF, or is that a woodworking myth? This woman had an answer. – Editor

"MDF is not made out of pallets, at least in the plant my husband works at that makes MDF. They use the branches and scraps that can't be used for veneers. All bark is removed before the process even begins, the chips are then dried in huge heated air tunnels. Pieces that are too large, too wet, or are not wood, don't make it to the top and are dropped out of the bottom. They have strict quality control, and on-site labs. All boards are metal tested, and batches are lab tested to assure top quality in every board. You can cut MDF with a router. As with any woodworking, wear a mask and glasses." – Mntgirl

Speaking of Festool...

Speaking of Festool… from Saw Mill Creek

With the release this month of the Festool Domino mortiser, we were curious as to what folks online had to say about the company. – Editor

"I am new here and very much a novice where it concerns woodworking. I'll ask a really stupid question. I see the posts about Festool products. What I would like to know is what makes Festool products so desirable." – Ron

"Festool produces high quality tools with high-level features. They are not for everyone. But for the most part, folks who purchase swear by them rather than at them." – Jim

A Slippery Slope

A Slippery Slope from WoodCentral

Over at WoodCentral, they also had a few choice things to say about the company, starting with their sanders. – Editor

"Try a Festool sander, and there's no turning back. You've started down the slippery slope." – Jesse

"I wish a sander was a sander and a saw was a saw. I would've spent much less on my shop over the years. Compared to [the other] sander I have , the Festool sander is much smoother running and quieter. The [other sander] makes my fingers numb and eventually hurts my wrist that already has problems from repetitive stress. I can run the Festool all day without a problem. Hooked to a shop vac, the sander was pretty good with [dust collection], but the Festool is better. Just being able to run it all day without buzzing hands, earplugs, or dust masks makes it worth the money for me." – Jay

"What Jay said, plus a couple of other things I really like: there is no static electricity (anti-static hose) like on a shop vac, so no shocks whenever you touch the vac; the paper is great - doesn't load, extra holes improve dc; both the sander and the vac have speed control; some of the sanders have dual mode as very aggressive orbit or gentle orbit; the vac comes on automatically when I turn on the sander and stays on 10 seconds after the sander is off to get those last few bits of dust, the vac has bags that seal easily so you are not emptying the vac into a trash can and making a cloud of dust, and if you use the saw, too, everything is already there and set up. Just swap the electric plug and the hose." – Jesse

It's not just sanders they like. Comments about other Festool offerings also showed up on this thread. – Editor

"I've heard lots of good comments about the sander, but I have my eye on the 12v C12 drill/driver. With the offset drive head additions it looks like something I would love using in the shop. I recently purchased a Festool TS 55 circular saw with guide rail to cut sheet goods. So far, I have been very pleased with both the performance of the saw and with the accurate cutting I can do with it. I have a small shop and no room for a slider. This has been a good alternative for me." – Tom

Tapping a Keg/Coplanar Band Saw Wheels

How to Tap a Keg from WoodCentral

"I use enough lacquer these days that I buy it in five gallon buckets. Do any of you know of a tap or faucet that I can put on the paint bucket so that, rather than decanting the lacquer off into empty one-gallon thinner cans, usually creating a mess, I can just put the lacquer right into the spray gun?" – Mark

A couple of people told him where to find a tap, some cheaper than others. – Editor

"I just purchased my first five of lacquer a week ago. I also purchased a 79-cent spout that is supposed to fit in the bung hole, according to the paint store." –  Dale

"Try here, Mark." – Carol

"If you do not want to try drilling a hole and buying a spigot, go to a local home brew supply store and get a five-gallon fermentation bucket with a spigot, lid and even an airlock. Probably more expensive than making your own, but ready to use." – Dan

Not everyone thought that a good idea. – Editor

"While the fermentation bucket is food grade and quite durable, lacquer (and the solvents therein) might make pretty quick work of the fermentation bucket or of its spigot. Metal would be the order of the day." – Jason

Others offered advice on how to pour without either a spigot or a mess. – Editor

"When pouring from a five-gallon container, it may seem intuitive to pour with the spout situated closest to the side from which you are pouring, but if you pour with the spout farthest from the side you are pouring from, you will make almost no mess. If you use a funnel, you can actually pour from a five without spilling a drop. This same principle also works for square gallon cans with the spout in one corner." – Robin

"For round cans, lay the can resting on its lip on a bench with the pour hole at the very top and the can at a slight backwards angle. Initially, you might need a small riser block under the lip to let you remove the cap with no initial spillage, but not after the first pour. Remove the cap and start to roll the bucket. As you roll it, the hole gets lower and feeds out liquid, glug-free. It works until the can is just about empty." – Michael

"They also make a stand you clamp the five-gallon can into that swivels to help eliminate spilling." – Tom

Business 101

Starting a Business: from WoodCentral

"I've been working as a cabinetmaker for a few years and have decided to go on my own. Can you guys offer any advice on getting started or what to watch out for, like unforeseen expenses? Thanks." – Chris

"I like the book Working at Woodworking by Jim Tolpin. It will answer a lot of questions for you. I wish you luck!" – David

"Watch your pricing. If you cost out a job and think you should charge 5k, make it 6k or more, as you will probably underbid. No reason to work for any less than you can. If you do very good work, you should be able to get very good prices for your work. If you think you can do a job in a week, charge based on a week and a half, 'cause it will probably take that long. For every week you work in the shop, you will end up spending at least another half a day or more doing other general administrative tasks that need to be accounted for. Good luck!" – Mary

All good advice, but one reader, who was clearly speaking from long personal experience, came up with an 11-item "Top 10" list that was sometimes humorous but always right on the money. – Editor

Rule #1 Make sure your spouse has a good job with family benefits.
#2 You will spend nearly as much time running the business as woodworking. Phone calls, material runs, estimates, walk-in customers, tax, etc.
#3 Plan on working 1/2 days as a business owner. (That's 12 hours.)
#4 The last vacation you had will have been your last one.
#5 Residential customers always want you to come out for a sales call after they get off work. See rule #3.
#6 When you get to the end of the year with what seems like a really nice profit, don't forget that April 15th will erase most of that.
#7 Get a signed contract and a down payment before you ever start any job. No matter how small.
#8 Don't be afraid to say no to a job. Cutting your estimate or low balling a bid to get work never works out.
#9 Word of mouth is your very best sales tool. An upset customer will tell lots of people they didn't like you.
#10 You will now have a different boss with every job. You are the business owner, not the boss.
#11 You will never be more proud of telling anyone what you do for a living.
Don't get me started on hiring employees. The first couple of those make more money than you do. Make sure you have a few months of backlog before pulling the trigger unless you really have rule #1 covered. Best of luck to you!" – Dick

Interesting that every single person that responded wished him good luck. We have the distinct feeling he may need it, so we'll add ours. Good luck! – Editor


Spreading the Word: from WoodCentral

"So, here I am, graduated a nice school, have my shop all set up, just about ready to work, but I still have to ask: For those of you who build furniture and other things for a living, how have you gotten your name out there? It's nice to envision a shop where I build custom pieces for a living, but the whole 'getting the attention of the customer' thing has me baffled. On my budget, I don't think I can afford ads in magazines yet, so I'm curious to hear how other people have tackled this issue. So many woodworkers I know run for their tools when confronted with the whole business side of things, and I'm trying not to run into that trap." – James

Many old hands offered a lot of good advice. – Editor

"Donate a spec piece to a local charity, maybe for a fundraising event, making sure you get good publicity. Not for your donation, but for the exquisite design, flawless craftsmanship and tasteful selection of wood, stressing your willingness to collaborate with the customer so an heirloom is created that can be proudly handed on to future generations. You will have to write it yourself. No one else understands as well as you do. If you can't articulate it, you can't sell it. Get the idea?" – Carol

"Business acumen is the key to success. You can be a great woodworker and a lousy businessman and your chances of success are limited. On the other hand, there are many mediocre woodworkers out there that are great at the business side of things, and they lead comfortable lives. I'm not saying you can't be great at both, just that good business practice is all -important to your success." – Ted

"I agree with both Ted and Carol, and would like to add that you need to keep a good portfolio of all of your work, especially that which you are most proud of. If you can afford to, make a few things that show your talent, then enter them into juried shows. This will put your work in front of a wide audience." – Keith

One regular on this board offered a half dozen cheap advertising suggestions gleaned from his own experiences. – Editor

"There have been about six things that have paid off big-time for me.
1) Signs on my truck. Make sure they are simple and easy to read, even at 60 mph. Include your web site address if you have one. Mine are magnetic and cost $75 for the pair.
2) Advertise on your local access TV channel. Mine costs $25 per month. Have them run the ad for six months, then drop it for a few months, then do it again. If done right, people will remember it.
3) Make a few things for a few friends that want you to build something for them. Charge them for materials only, but the attached string is they can't tell anyone what it cost them, but they have to tell everyone who built it. Surprising how fast word of mouth travels, especially if your workmanship is first class.
  4) A web site done professionally. Not something that has to be done right away, but has paid off for me. Might be because I advertise it extensively. Shop around carefully here. I'm a true believer that getting it designed locally will be the cheapest way to go.
5) Business cards. I give mine out, and I'm not shy about it.
6) I bought a woodburning tool with my shop's logo. Now and then I'll cut up some scrap oak, burn my logo, drill a small hole into one corner, thread a chain through it, and I now have a memento to give to current or prospective customers." – Ron

"Best I've found is to weasel your way into small specialty shops with good managers. Go in on consignment for stupid low prices. After a while, when folks see your stuff in other folks' houses and offices, you start sneaking the prices up a bit at a time." – Steve

"Word of mouth kept me busy for a long time, and it still does today. My business took a turn when I started teaching, and that has been a huge boost. The Internet is good, but it is limited. Getting involved in a local guild and getting to know other people in the trades is good networking. People will refer others to you if they know about you and like your work, and do not do it themselves. Carpenters who build million dollar houses are not interested in making tables for those houses, but they like to have someone to whom they can refer when they are asked. Above all, do good work and take good care of your customers. As to the web page stuff, it is the cheapest portfolio you can have, and the easiest for people to access." – Bill

Show Me ... Your Pocket Knife

 
Show Me: from WoodCentral

There's a brand-new woodworking show doing the rounds this year, and it did not take long for folks on WoodCentral to notice it and ask each other questions about it. – Editor

"I just got an ad for the Consumer Woodworking Expo in today's mail. Has anyone here ever been to one? Their web site doesn't have much to say about the show itself, but does promote the seminars. Mike Heavey, Jim Heavey and Kerry Pierce are the presenters, and truthfully, I have never heard of any of them. This show is a two-hour drive away from here, and I'd hate to make the trip only to find out I can cover the whole show in 15 minutes, so does anyone have any experience with this show series?" – Jim

"Jim, I'm not sure I have the details right ,but Zachary Zeidler owns that show. He was with The Woodworking Shows (TWS). TWS was supposed to be sold in July to American Woodworker (AW) magazine, which itself was sold in December by Readers' Digest. That was announced at the AWFS Show in Las Vegas. Three weeks after the letter of intent was signed, AW pulled out of the deal. Then a couple of vendors tried to form a consortium to buy the show, but they couldn't reach consensus, so that fell apart. TWS was finally sold to two vendors: Bad Dog and Woodline, so now they own the show, but have no show background or understanding of what a show really is about. Making this 'stew' even thicker, the right man for TWS left in May and launched his own woodworking shows, so now there's another company out there, modeled after the old TWS, confusing the consumer even more. Zachary Zeidler is probably this person, naming his new creation Consumer Woodworking Expo. If this is correct, my guess is that the Consumer Woodworking Expo will be just another rehash of the old TWS." – David

"So that leaves only one guy with show experience and venue connections and experience with the vendors. That would be Jonathan Frank and the WoodWorks Shows. Earlier today, I went online to buy band saw blades from a company who does shows and one I admire greatly. She is doing one Consumer WW Expo near her home, probably to check them out, but is doing all of the WoodWorks shows and none of the TWS shows. Now I understand her reasoning. The scenario with woodworking shows this year will be interesting to watch." – Carol

"Carol, the classes you gave typify why I go to shows, and why I prefer WoodWorks. A couple of years ago. they had a maker of African drums as a demonstrator. That was a unique experience worth the drive and money." – Chuck

Of course everyone is entitled to his or her opinion, but according to their web site, The Woodworking Shows are still going strong and have by far the largest show schedule this year. – Editor

"I plan to be at the Schaumburg WoodWorks show myself. I've been affiliated with them since they first launched in 2002. Actually, the WoodWorks shows grew out of the American Woodworker shows, which I had helped launch in 1995. Jonathan Frank, the WoodWorks show owner and manager, was our manager back in those days as well. He knows show business very well and puts on a very classy and information-packed show with lots of well-known demonstrators and authors. You won't be disappointed." – Ellis


…Your Pocket Knife: from WoodCentral

Quick, name any woodworker you know who does NOT carry a pocket knife. Tough, huh? That's one tool all of us tend to carry, but which one, and why? This message board denizen wondered, too. – Editor

"Just thought I'd take a quick poll. I just bought a new pocket knife, and started wondering what brand others here at WoodCentral tend to favor. Personally, I favor the 'Boker' stockman with carbon steel blades. What do you use and why?" – Pat

"Gerber UltraLite L.S.T. Two-inch blade makes it small and very handy! Fits well on keychain." – Mark

"When we were at Smoky Mountain Knife Works in Tennessee I picked up a kit to make my own lock-back pocket knife. I used cocobolo for the handle." – Moses

"Swiss army knife. You never know when you will need a screwdriver, can opener, small pliers…" – JL

"Laguiole, obtained on our anniversary a number of years ago. It's a beauty, and I don't understand why our airlines won't let me carry it." – Bruce

"I got a Gerber several years ago. What I really like about it is that the resistance to folding out the blade is adjustable. What I don't like about it is that it's stainless steel and therefore difficult to put a edge on." – Lee

"Bulldog. Liked the shape of the sowbelly stockman." – John
 
"I'm fond of the Benchmade knives." – John

"My favorite by far is the Kershaw Chive. The most important feature for me in a knife is that I can open it with one hand." – Chad

"Victorinox Executive. It is small, has scissors and toothpick." – Peter

"Leatherman Micra. Carried the small Victorinox Swiss army version for years, but the Leatherman Micra has much more functional scissors, a blade, tweezers, screwdrivers, nail file, and bottle opener. I never leave home without it." – John

"Right now, I carry a Queen whittler." – Rick

"I have a Buck Cadet that I've carried for over 20 years. It holds a great edge. I rarely leave home without it." – Lee

"Thirty- year-old Al-Mar. Good steel and never gets lost." – Clint

Clint is lucky, but not everyone manages to spend 30 years without losing a knife. George, for instance, loses enough to make up for Clint, and then some. – Editor

"I've lost several million pen knives. As replacements, I can always get another when there is a flea market somewhere. Then I get several at $1.00 apiece." – George

Let's see; several million at one dollar each comes to… Whoa! Talk about repeat business. We should be selling pen knives to a customer like you.  – Editor

Rail Sleds and Snow Sleds

Rail Sleds from WoodCentral

"I got a rail and stile set to do some doors. The panel profile worked just fine, but when it comes time to cut the rail ends, I haven't figured a way to feed the piece so that the bit doesn't take a deeper chunk at the start of the cut until the bearing makes contact. Those here who use these router bits care to share the details on how to do this?" – Mark

Several folks quickly explained, using a variety of methods. – Editor

"When coping the ends, you do not need a bearing. What you need is a split fence on the router table, with as small of an opening as possible and a miter gauge set at exactly 90 degrees. The miter gauge will need to have some way to securely hold the piece in place. Set the outfeed fence exactly even with the shallowest cut of the router bit. Set the infeed fence a little deeper than the outfeed fence. Cut your stock to the exact length needed plus twice the difference of the two fences. Example: If the infeed fence is 1/16" deeper than the outfeed fence, then cut your stock 1/8" longer than needed. Run a piece of scrap through the coping setup and use this as a backer to prevent blow-out. I could have had it all set up faster than it took to type all of this up." – DB

"I tried cutting using the miter gauge as a carrier, and that would work fine if I could get the fence exactly parallel to the miter slot, but that was too much trouble. Instead, I use a scrap pusher block that is fairly large, or at least wide, maybe six or eight by twelve. I put that behind the piece and use it to keep the rail square to the fence and from moving in and out. You could make up a fixture with clamps, but for me it works just as well to squeeze the wood tight to the edge with my fingers and take a light pass, and then do it again taking the rest. The pusher block gets the profile cut in the edge and then serves as the backer to avoid tearout. I seldom, if ever, use the guide bearing." – Barry

"In the past, I've just installed the router bit and set the height. Then, using a straightedge, set the fence flush with the bearing on the bit. Next, I set up my miter gauge with a flat scrap of wood or MDF attached as a backer and make sure it's square to the fence. Set the rail against the miter gauge and hold it firmly while running it past the bit. This worked for me for years. Last year, I bought a rail coping jig that was on sale, and I plan to use it when I get the next opportunity. Not only will it clamp the rail down securely, but it has a backer piece that helps prevent tearout and a handle to grasp while pushing the work. Something like this might make the job easier, safer, and make the cuts come out better. The prices aren't bad either." – David

That's especially true when you consider the safety issue, which makes a safety improvement like a rail coping jig downright cheap. – Editor

Snow Sleds from WoodCentral

Rob was not the only one noticing the end of summer recently, but this chilly thread illustrated the importance of location. – Editor

"Big sigh. Summer's over, I guess. Two inches of snow when I got to work this morning." – Gary

"Well, it's not near that bad here in the Midwest, but trees are changing color fast. I spent most of the weekend on the bike. It won't be long before the snow will be too deep to ride it." – Ron

Of course, it all depends on where you live. – Editor

"Yeah, right. High 70s here in Vista today. Enjoy the snow." – Joe

That was California, but Texas chimed in, too. – Editor

"Heat index was 110 yesterday. It'll be about the same for the rest of the week." – Phil

And for some, winter is ending and spring is just beginning. – Editor

"Depends on where you live in the world. There's blossoms on my apple tree, the oak leaf buds are swelling, the avian dawn chorus is deafening, the temp is 55 degrees, and I turned the clocks forward one hour over the weekend. This is all going to add up soon to many pleasant evenings in the shop." – Angus, enjoying Spring in New Zealand.

In what is called a hijack in message board parlance, a chap from Denmark asked the following. – Editor

"So Angus, where in New Zealand would you recommend someone to go for a couple of weeks to get away from the dark and cold here in Old Zealand?" – Jesper

Angus suggested a couple of places, and reminded him that the seasons are not all that are reversed south of the equator. – Editor

"Right now, I say go to the north of the country to escape the cold. This is the southern hemisphere, so you've got to think opposite of what you may be accustomed to in the North. In a few more months, the whole country should be well warmed up." – Angus

Life's Little Mulligans

Forget the Finish; Change the Wood from WoodCentral

"I bought a mailbox post at Lowe's®. It is aromatic cedar, light with dark blotches, and I don't know if I can stain it or not. Your thoughts?" – Brian

At first, there was the usual set of suggestions and disagreements. – Editor

"I'd just put a couple coats of spar varnish on it." – Ron
 
"Do not finish aromatic cedar with any kind of oil-based finish. Aromatic cedar will soften an oil-based finish to a sticky state. I became aware of this in researching to build a blanket chest with aromatic cedar lining and was advised to not finish at all any part of the chest interior containing aromatic cedar. In a chest, place no finish at all on the cedar as this would kill its pleasant odor, which can be revived with a light sanding." – Lance

Good advice with regard to chest linings, since in addition to the aroma, finish will also block the vaunted moth-chasing properties of the wood. – Editor

"Aromatic cedar can be finished with either a solvent based lacquer or any waterborne latex, acrylic, or urethane finish." – Clint

Just when the finish issue was sorted out, a very strange thing happened. Brian posted a picture of the post itself. At that point, the thread went in a decidedly different direction once people saw the picture. – Editor

"I wouldn't have purchased that post if there is as much sapwood as it looks like in the picture. The sapwood of cedar is not very durable. When buying a cedar post, you definitely want to find one with mostly heartwood. It is likely that all the sapwood in the ground will rot away within a couple of years which can result in a loose post or one that will break off. That above ground will split and slough off in very few years." – Larry

"Yikes, I was going to say much the same thing the second I saw that picture. The white will rot away relatively quickly outdoors and especially in contact with the ground. When I cut cedar 4x4s for fence posts on my sawmill, I make sure most of each face is heartwood and allow some white only on the corners. I save boards with white for inside use. The old pole barn on this place was built with red cedar poles. It had a corner of the roof missing for at least 20 years. The sapwood on that corner had rotted completely to mush from getting wet every time it rained, but the heartwood was still in perfect shape." – John

So, what did Brian do? – Editor

"Thanks everyone. I'm returning the post and will buy a red cedar post instead." – Brian

Square Drilling and Iron Buff

Drill Square from WoodCentral

A square peg in a round hole is the classic description of someone who does not fit in, but we woodworkers make it happen all the time. Here's one man's quest to drill a square hole and the helpful, creative suggestions he got from his online cohorts. – Editor

"Just for fun, I'm making a cocobolo shift knob for my car. The shaft is square, but not the size of any standard mortising chisel. It's around five eighths of an inch wide. So what is the best way to drill a square hole in cocobolo maybe two and a half inches deep, but that does not go all the way through? I have only two ideas. One is use the next smaller size mortising chisel and then widen it a little with a bench chisel. The other is using a round bit, then a corner chisel to square it up. Any other ideas?" – Doug

"One idea would be to use a standard quarter inch square mortising chisel and punch a hole in each corner. It would then be easy to use the same bit to punch out the webs between the holes. Sharpen the bit well. Cocobolo is hard and tough." – Barry

"If I didn't have a mortising chisel, I would simply drill it close to size and then use a small chisel to clean up the corners and possibly the sides. Cocobolo cuts pretty well, but it is a harder wood. If you do have a mortising chisel, I would also recommend using a smaller one and drill each corner. If necessary, clean up the sides with the mortising chisel." – John

Then things took a different turn. – Editor

"You could get closer to square with a router and a small bit rather than a large round bit. Could drill a series of small holes within the square to make the chiseling easier, or use a dado blade to cut a 5/8 slot the right depth, then glue pieces in to fill the sides. You could make them contrasting." – Bill

Bill's suggestion introduced a whole new approach and sparked more ideas along those lines. – Editor

"The easiest way might be to take the block apart and put it back together. Slice a layer off the top. Slit the bottom part in half vertically. Cut rabbets in the two halves of the bottom blocks and glue them back together. if you reassemble the pieces carefully, the joints won't show much. Not nearly as much fun as leaving it in one piece." – Barry

"Here's a couple more ideas. Drill a large hole so the knob will slide over the corners of the square. Fill the crescent-shaped gaps with epoxy and a filler to make the square hole. The other idea is similar. Drill that large hole again, but make four wood fillers to fill the spaces." – Dick

"How about machining the metal shaft to fit your mortiser, or weld/braze some shims to fit the next larger size." – John


Iron Buff from WoodCentral

"My brother was told about a recipe of steel wool and vinegar that is used to make a black transparent stain on some woods, but the person was very vague about the recipe. Does anyone know the recipe and if it works, and what woods does it work on?" –  Loren

Ah, yes. It's our old friend iron buff: rust and vinegar on tannin-based wood. We suspect most magazines have run this formula many times, but it's one of those that is worth repeating now and again. Let's see how the online community handles it. – Editor

"Woods with tannic acid in them will react. Walnut will turn jet-black. I buy a pint of cheap white vinegar and shred up a pad of steel wool in it. I let it set three or four days in an open container. This is important as the chemical reaction forms a gas. I strain it through a cone-shaped coffee filter when I'm ready to use it. The liquid remains clear, but the wood will change color in a few minutes." – Bob

Excellent description, Bob. Now how about a suggestion for woods that don't contain a lot of tannin? – Editor

"You have good info here. I've used it on woods that just wouldn't do anything but turn a dull gray. I then made up a batch of tea. Yup, the kind we all drink. I dropped my hollow form into that ,and it instantly started turning black. Tea provides the tannin some woods lack. I used one steel wool pad  in one pint of vinegar, the cheapest you can find. I soaked it overnight, filtered it, and used it. Worked great." – Ed

Of course, you can always get your iron from another, more direct source. As you read the next entry, remember that the symbol for iron on the periodic table is Fe, short for ferrum, the Latin word for iron. – Editor

"I used a solution of ferrous sulfate to accomplish this on walnut grips. It turned them jet-black. Just a teaspoonful in a cup of warm water did it." – Lee

Old Tools, Old Tool Prices

Old Saws from WoodCentral

"Have radial arm saws outlived their usefulness? About six years ago, I invested in a compound draw miter saw. Before the purchase, I used a radial arm saw for all my crosscuts. What an improvement my draw saw was over the radial arm. A lot of woodworkers must feel the same way, 'cause I can't give my radial arm away! Am I missing something?"  Geary

We are about to slide into serious alphabet soup, so to forestall any confusion, here's a quick glossary. RAS = radial arm saw; CMS = compound miter saw; SCMS = sliding compound miter saw. OK, now dive in. – Editor

"I love my RAS. I leave a dado blade in it and crosscut flawlessly on it." – Matt

"I wouldn't give mine up for anything. Properly tuned, it crosscuts wider and more accurately than a SCMS, is much more quiet than the screaming universal motor on a CMS, and the large table makes it easier and (I believe) safer to cut on. I just don't get the danger aspect of a RAS. Just put a negative hook blade on it and keep your hands away. The same rules you have on any saw. It's great for short dadoes, half-laps and even some quick tenons. I've tried various CMS and SCMS and they are nice, but I'll never give up my RAS. In fact, I'm looking for an upgrade. Just an individual preference and what you are used to." – Mike

"Personally, after working without one, and now working with one, I can't see how anyone would not want to have one. But, that's just my preference." – Jeb
 
After the RAS love fest came some less complimentary assessments. – Editor

"My Sears RAS was probably the worst tool purchase of my life. The table is difficult to impossible to adjust, the saw wobbles in its carriage rails, which are just half-round soft steel rods, and the column fit is sloppy. It has been converted into a drum-sanding station where it is somewhat useful." – Dave

"My RAS was only 18 months old when I sold it for about half what I paid for it. It was a lousy tool, and continuous tune-ups were a pain. I was never satisfied. Got a SCMS and put the dado head in my table saw. Have lived a happy life since." – George

Eventually, more evenhanded appraisals prevailed. – Editor

"I think the popularity of the SCMS is largely due to the portability factor. Most builders and carpenters can easily tote around an SCMS or CMS, whereas it takes at least two people to move a radial arm saw. The other key is tune-ups. If you don't tune up your RAS regularly, then your cuts will be anything but accurate. The SCMS is pretty accurate right out of the box and doesn't take a long time to tune up. As far as safety is concerned, it can be frightening to have the saw come at you as it cuts and grabs a bit. Negative hook angle helps, but not completely, but used with care it is safe enough. It is certainly not a tool for all beginners and wouldn't be my recommendation for a first power saw in the shop." – Lee

"Newer saws are probably the best for the average woodworker who wants convenience and accuracy and is probably a little gun-shy about safety. For many older, experienced workers who cut their woodworking teeth back a few years, the radial saw works just fine and will do few things that the modern saw won't. Neither one is better than the other. It depends on the skill and prior experience of the individual." – Don

"I have both an RAS and a CMS, and love both. True what Don said, both have their place and function, but I wouldn't be without either." – Ron


Tool Bargains? from WoodCentral

With the season of gift giving close upon us, we figured it was the perfect time to share this bit of online nostalgia about the way things were. – Editor

"I was digging through my archives of old books this weekend and ran into a 1944 catalog from a machine tool dealer in California. Here are some prices:
Stanley 1/4" electric drill - - $36
Black & decker 1/4" electric drill - - $32
12" Delta wood lathe - less motor - $87
10" Delta Unisaw - $137
6" Delta jointer with enclosed steel stand - w/o motor - $77
14" Delta band saw with steel base - w/o motor - $83
24" Delta scroll saw with open base - w/o motor - $53
6x48" Delta belt sander w/motor - $72
Carter brand routers - $67-197
Lots more machines and tools are in the catalog. This is only a sampling. It was interesting to note most powered machinery was offered without electric motors and that the early power hand tools were very expensive." – Pete

Now, before you get all in a tizzy about how cheap things were then, check out the next response in the thread from someone who converted those prices into today's dollars. It was very sobering. – Editor

"Doing a cost comparison: the average wage in 1942 was $3,450. Average wage in 2006 was $38,651. So over 11.2 times (ignoring increased taxes etc.). Multiplying by 11 would be a somewhat realistic figure as far as today's cost.

"Stanley 1/4" electric drill - - $36 X 11 = $396
Black & decker 1/4" electric drill - - $32 X 11 = $352
12" Delta wood lathe - less motor - $87 X 11 = $957
10" Delta Unisaw - $137 X 11 = $1507
6" Delta jointer with enclosed steel stand - w/o motor - $77 X 11 = $847
14" Delta band saw with steel base - w/o motor - $83 X 11 = $913
24" Delta scroll saw with open base - w/o motor - $53 X 11 = $583
6x48" Delta belt sander w/motor - $72 X 11 = $792
Carter brand routers - $67-197 X 11 = $737-$2,167

"I have used many of the tools from that era. I remember I received my first drill around 1953 as a Christmas present. The quarter inch drills were quite high speed, with a lot less power than today's for $350 - $400! As I recall, few people owned many (if any) power tools. Most were used in industry or by large commercial businesses. The only table saw in the area was owned by the Farm Bureau Co-op as they had a small lumberyard. As I remember, the local carpenter handyman that lived in our small town and worked throughout the area building and repairing homes had one power tool, a worm drive circular saw, and he guarded it like it was gold. Looking at the price comparisons above, it probably was." – Larry

Fair enough; we promise we won't complain about the cost of tools this year. – Editor

Which Saw?

Which Saw? from Sawmill Creek

"I have a project to do that requires me to resaw some 4/4 cherry down to 3/8" thick stock. I don't have a decent band saw, and a new one is not currently in the budget. What I do have is an old Sears Craftsman 12" band saw. It's basically a flimsy piece of junk, but it does run. Would it be a total waste of my time and money to get a decent resawing blade and give it a go on this saw? I'd hate to waste so much good lumber planing 4/4 down to 3/8" stock. Your thoughts?" – Jeff

The first response was to use the table saw instead. – Editor

"If it is a full inch thick and less than six inches wide, you can resaw it on a 10-inch table saw. Make one pass, flip it, keeping same side against the fence, and make a second pass. There will be more waste than on a band saw, but not as much as planing it down." – James

"If resawing on a table saw, a thin kerf blade will be easier on your saw and not as wasteful. Don't saw all the way through. Leave a small amount in the center so the two sides are still connected and finish the cut with a hand saw. Much safer this way." – Lance

Another suggested it was possible with the band saw but admitted the table saw was a good fallback position when you consider how much planing it takes to remove errant band saw drift. – Editor

"Get a good blade and you can resaw, but go slowly. If the machine vibrates as badly as my old Craftsman you need to go the table saw route as you will waste just as much wood trying to straighten it back out." – Scott

Then someone suggested he take advantage of the ever present online bonhomie. – Editor

"Why don't you put your location in your user profile? I'm sure there's no shortage of folks who'd volunteer to do it for you on a good band saw if they knew you were close by." – Doug

Which Saw? from Women in Woodworking

"I'm just getting my feet wet in woodworking and I'm wondering what is the best multipurpose saw to get. I would like to start small and build some bird feeders and birdhouses, and maybe a coupleof  magazine racks. I'd also like to replace a lot of the door and window trim in my house. I'm trying to decide between a table saw and a miter saw. I know eventually I'll need both kinds, but I just was trying to make the best choice for the next purchase. My husband has a nice jigsaw, a Sawzall, and an old circular saw. I'm leaning towards a table saw, but can you cut mitered corners with a table saw?" – Mary "

Table saw is my first choice. You can make several jigs for the power hand saw and use it in place of a power miter box for most projects." – Joe

"It's my opinion that a table saw is the best first choice to make, but it needs to be set up right and kept in very good maintenance or it's worth nothing. With the right jigs, you can make just about any cut you can think of. By the way, if you haven't already done so, I suggest that you order some woodworking catalogs, then read the description of every item on every page. The information you gather before you buy could save you lots of money." – John

That was about what we expected to see, but then someone weighed in with a completely different opinion. – Editor

"I'm going to depart from the general opinion and suggest a band saw. I am also a new woodworker. I've had my own shop for a couple of years, and I find the band saw the most flexible tool I own. You can rip, crosscut, cut joinery, saw curves, etc. With the right jig, you can do an awful lot. Granted, the band saw has limited width capacity, but you said you wanted to start with small projects anyway. The band saw is also safer in some uses than a table saw. The blades are also less expensive than a table saw's. I did not get a band saw until I had been woodworking seriously for a year and it was like 'Where have you been all my life?' I love it." – Susan

Coping and Cupping

Coping with irritation from WoodCentral


"I have been using Deft lacquer for a finish for decades. I actually sort of like the smell. Now I am noticing that my nose is bothering me. It runs, and itches. The problem has been sporadic, but so is my use of Deft. I don't have a spray booth and have been doing small projects and ventilate when I can. I usually spray a bowl or hollow form and leave the area, going upstairs.
Does anyone know if this sounds like a reaction to the Deft, or dry winter air, or dust, or just getting older?" – Barry



Quite a bit of good advice followed, starting with a direct, and rather obvious, answer to Barry's questions. – Editor

"All of the above." – Mark


"You might try a semi-controlled test. Pick a day when you're fine, then spray some lacquer and see what happens. If you get symptoms, I'd let those clear, and then repeat. If it happens twice, odds are fairly good you may have your culprit. Obviously ventilation would help, but you might want to see your doctor." – John

"I would suggest that you either set up an exhaust fan to the outside that you can spray near, or shoot finish outdoors." – Mark

"There are a number of components of aerosol lacquers that can be sensitizers. Unlike allergens that evoke a response with the first exposure, sensitizers may start out to seem fairly benign. As you get older, or as you increase your cumulative exposure, you can start to become more sensitive to them. Eventually you start showing symptoms that increase in intensity, and respond to smaller and smaller amounts of the sensitizer. If you plan to continue using lacquer, you should wear a good respirator that blocks the components of the lacquer and you should be spraying toward the fan of a booth. You need ventilation when you spray, whether you are using a spray gun or an aerosol can. That can may look harmless, but it still produces a cloud of airborne solvents and particulates. When you spray, ventilate." – Michael

Of course, there is always the requisite wag available to add levity to  the online thread. – Editor

"Don't worry unless you have hallucinations, unless, of course, you've always had hallucinations, in which case, don't worry unless the hallucinations stop." – Clint


Cupped Top from WoodCentral

"I have a glued four foot by eight foot table top hickory panel. It was flat in the shop. I brought it in the house and it has cupped about three sixteenths of an inch in the middle with the outside edges rolling up. I have not put cleats on or fastened it to aprons yet, nor have I put any finish on it. Should I wet one side then fasten it down and finish it or what?" – Tom

At first, several cautious bits of  advice were offered. – Editor

"Leave it be to acclimate to the room temp, and it will probably return to flat. If it doesn't, then decide what to do." – Ron

"While you're letting it readjust, be sure air can get to both sides." – Kneale

"I never recommend wetting, but I do recommend trying to dry the convex side more than the concave side when trying to control bowing and cupping. If you have a radiant heat source that you can expose to that side will help it dry faster than the other, should help pull it back." – Keith

"It's hard to predict what will happen to this top unless we have a better idea of the moisture content and the cut of the wood (flatsawn, quartered, etc.). It would also help to know if the relative humidity in your shop is a lot different from your house. Regardless, I would not rely on a top this large staying flat on its own without aprons or cleats. My advice is to just let it acclimate for a while in your house while you make the base for it. Make the aprons wide enough to resist any cupping forces (but not so wide that knees can't fit beneath them). When you anchor the top to the base, use a sturdy attachment method, such as hardwood buttons, that will be strong enough to keep the top flat. Ultimately, you want to finish both sides equally, so that seasonal humidity swings don't cause it to shrink unevenly on the top and bottom, causing more cupping and bowing." – Ellis

At that point, someone must have looked more closely at the numbers, and that resulted in some very different advice, and the feeling that this was clearly a tempest in a teacup. – Editor

"Three sixteenths over four feet? Forget about it. Three sixteenths across four feet is nothing to worry about assuming the top is not two inches thick. I'd suggest you just finish it evenly on both sides and fasten it to your base, which will hold it flat." – Lee

Squaring and Milk Paint

Web Surfer's Review is a sampling of  a couple of interesting discussions we found recently on woodworking message boards. We neither write it nor vouch for the accuracy of the content. – Editor


A Square Deal: from WoodCentral

"I am building cabinets that are 26 inches deep and 27 inches tall. The sides are three quarter inch ply. The problem that I am experiencing is that the carcasses are square in the back when I put the half inch ply backs on, but when checking the diagonals in the front, they are out of square by an eighth to a quarter of an inch. These will be frameless cabinets. Is this to be expected with cabinets of this depth, or should I do something now to get them squared before installing them?" – Howard

"If this is after the fact, I don't have any suggestions for a frameless carcass. If you still have more to make or haven't glued the carcasses yet, you could clamp some square blocks of solid wood or plywood in the front corners during your assembly. These will help square the front, and the plywood back will take care of the rear." – David

"You should be able to get closer to square on the front. Can you shim one side or the other to raise up that corner a bit? If your wall isn't flat or perpendicular to the floor, it will tend to rack your cabinet. Without reinforcement in the front at the corners, I would expect they might vary about that much on the diagonal." – Lee

"Is it possible that the pieces of plywood are not exactly square to begin with? When building our kitchen cabinets, I found that it is more difficult than I thought it would be to get pieces cut that were exactly square. I finally constructed a large sled for my table saw, and that was a tremendous help. Another thought is whether or not you are getting the plywood side edges to fit together well during glue-up. If the edges will not show, a brad nailer would help hold them together until the glue sets up. I glued the four sides together first, then added the back and stapled one edge, lined up the other edge and stapled that, then the remaining two edges, and then let the glue dry. I got diagonals closer than a sixteenth." – Jim

"A 26-inch deep frameless cabinet will have a lot of give at the front. I would try to make sure they are square when you glue and screw or biscuit or whatever you are doing, but you should not have any problems installing them square if the plywood sides are cut square. A lot of people assume that plywood sheets are square. So long as the two sides are the same length at the front, and the top and bottom are the same width, you should be able to install them with doors so that everything lines up." – Moses

"Sorry, Moses, but doesn't this also describe a parallelogram? On the last cabinets I did, it quickly became apparent that I was responsible for making the square crosscut to length. Easier said than done. Too long to use the table saw, and too wide for the SCMS, that left me with a couple of choices. I could rough cut to length and re-cut on the table saw with the sliding table, but I don't like doing things twice. I settled on using a circle saw and a really careful guide system. Checked and double-checked for square before cutting. That went well. Getting the pieces exactly the same length was next. If the sides are different lengths, there's no chance of a square cabinet box. Ditto for the top and bottom. I used a pair of long straight-edge metal yardsticks with stair stops on them to set the saw guide. Simply clamp them in place on the end, and clamp the saw guide against the end of the straight edges. Double-check for square before removing the straight edges, and you're good to go. It was a little fussy at first, but then I stacked the parts and ran my fingers around the edges to find them exactly the same size. Anyway, that's how I get square boxes. The rule I taught in class was mirror images for sides, mirror images for tops and bottoms, and 90° corners on all make for a square box." – Carol


Milk Paint: from WoodCentral

"I just tried some milk paint on a few Shaker boxes. The paint was easy to mix and use, but I was surprised that the manufacturer recommended a clear finish top coat. I used equal parts of boiled linseed oil, polyurethane and thinner and then applied. I was not happy with the results because it needed another coat. I was wondering what other people use as a top coat." Tom

"After a few experiments, I determined that clear satin waterbased polyurethane is a very easy topcoat for milk paint. The kicker is that it is something that I've always got around the shop." – John

"It depends on what you want. An oil-based topcoat mixture like the one you mentioned will darken and saturate the color of the milk paint. It will also largely soak in without building appreciably, so if you're after a film finish for some reason, you will have to apply several coats to build up a luster. If you want a thicker film, I'd suggest a brushing varnish, though I am not convinced that Shaker boxes need this amount of protection. Waxes and waterbased polyurethane will leave the color of the milk paint closer to its original color." – Ellis

"I generally put on two to three coats of milk paint, lightly buffing with sandpaper between coats. I've used tung oil, but lately am using two or three coats of Watco Danish Oil, then buff out with 000 steel wool. Love the look. The Danish Oil protects and gives it a soft, aged look." – Dave

Sawdust, Success and Swapping

Swapping:

Vacuum Pressing and Fancy Plywood

Vaccum Pressing: from WoodCentral

Sidle on over to the Industry Interview segment of this eZine, and you will notice that we talk to the owner of Quality VAKuum Products, a company that makes vacuum pumps and sells both clamping and bag systems. Coincidentally, we found this thread about the same subject on one of our favorite message boards. – Editor

"I just bought and set up a vacuum pressing system this weekend. I did a test panel and it was a success, but the manual suggests making caul panels when pressing veneers. What if you don't use a caul and simply cover the applied veneer with a non-stick barrier?" – Tom

"The caul or platen acts to distribute pressure evenly. Also, if you simply draw a vacuum without a caul or platen, you have much more likelihood of any small sawdust or anything sitting on the veneer to telegraph through and vice-versa. I really don't think you can get an effective glue-up without a caul." – Norman 

Not everyone agreed entirely. – Editor

"When I can, I use platens on both sides of the piece being pressed, but have often used a platen on the lower side and some breather mesh on top. I have not had any problems." – Jerry

"Ditto on breather mesh. A caul is handy if you are doing the same operation many times. Cauls are next to impossible with curved work, so I always use mesh on that." – Jesse

Dadoes and Nuts

Skinny Dadoes: from WoodCentral

Plywood is often smaller than the nominal size it is called. This chap knew it, and asked for suggestions for cutting skinny dadoes to match. – Editor

"I'm going to be making up some kitchen cabinet doors using solid wood for the rails and stiles, and quarter-inch plywood for the panel. I'd like to machine the dado on my table saw. My dado set doesn't cut much smaller than a light quarter inch. I'm thinking of trying a pair of seven and a quarter circular saw blades with a bit of shim between them to get the undersized plywood to fit right. I really don't want to rout the groove. Any input would be welcome." – Les

"Norm's method is to cut it with your favorite blade in two passes. Set the blade to the correct height and fence slightly off-center. Using scraps of identical thickness, run them through the blade and then reverse it and run it with the other face against the fence. This assures the dado or groove is centered in the stock. You just have to fiddle the fence setting until you get the groove you want. This does not take as long as it sounds like, unless you are making thousands of pieces. Since you don't have to even remove the existing blade from the TS, you don't have to take the time it takes to install the two blades and figuring out what the spacer would be." – Barry

"The method suggested by Barry has always worked well for me as well, especially for stiles and rails of equal thickness. However, for stiles and rails of different thickness, to keep from getting confused, I mark the backside on all the pieces and keep that side against the fence. Then, after making the initial cut, just move the fence slightly - always keeping the marked side against the fence. Keep a practice piece handy to check your setting. In fact, keep several practice pieces handy. Oh yes, watch out for plywood that varies in thickness. Hope this helps." – Jim

The Borg and Choices

We are the Borg; Resistance is Futile: from WoodCentral

Online message boards are the perfect place to air frustrations. This long, sad tale is a poignant testimonial to the state of customer service today. – Editor

"The other day, I needed a sheet of three-quarter -inch birch plywood. I decided to go to Home Depot. I went early on a weekday morning to avoid the crowds and hopefully be in and out quickly. I got to the birch ply, cast off the first few top sheets as they were in sad condition, and found one that appeared reasonably flat and not chewed up. I  figured, 'I have to cut this sheet down anyway, so why not get it cut in half here?'

"Earlier, when I was sorting through the birch ply there were plenty of slack-jawed orange-vested kids wandering around. But when the time came for really needing assistance, I swear the entire store was deserted. I was ready for tumbleweeds to roll by. I pressed the distress button next to the panel saw. That, of course, activated the lovely woman's voice saying, 'Customer service needed; saw area.' I waited a while and nothing, so I pressed the button again, and again. Nothing. Now mind you, I probably was the only customer in the store at the time.

"Finally, I walked up to the front where an orange-vested woman was sitting, looking like she was supervising the battery display. I said to her,  'Hi, I need a piece of plywood cut but can't locate assistance. Mind if I use the panel saw myself?' Well, those must be the magic words. Suddenly a flurry of walkie-talkie activity ensued between several orange-vested people throughout the store. She indicated that there was only one guy in the store that knew how to use the saw and that he was on his way. One guy?

"I saw an adult in an orange vest lumbering down the aisle towards the panel saw. 'You the guy who needs something cut?' Now mind you, I am standing next to the panel saw holding a full sheet of plywood and there is nobody else in sight. 'How do you want it cut?' I said, 'Cut it in half width-wise' He gets a puzzled look on his face so I rescue the awkward moment by saying I want two four-foot by four-foot pieces. Unfortunately, that only created an even more awkward moment as I could see the wheels slowly turning in his head trying to figure out if it was even possible to get two four-by-four pieces from a full sheet. Sure enough, he grabs a tape measure and measures the sheet to make sure. Meanwhile, my eyes are uncontrollably rolling.

"What ensued was comical as he attempted to set up the saw for the cut. The saw had been turned to make a length cut and needed to be turned back to do a cross cut. After much trial and error he figured it out, but not before knocking the dust collector hose off ,which retracted behind the saw frame. He performed a series of monkey-like maneuvers to get the hose looped back over and reconnected to the saw. Finally, we get my sheet of ply on the saw and Mr. orange vest lines up the cut. He turns and says, 'Do you want me to cut right on the four foot line?' At this point, I wonder if I am on a hidden camera TV show. I said 'Yes, that'll be fine.' He pulls the saw trigger and nothing happens. Then he remembers he needs to activate power to the saw.

"There is a power box off to the side, but before he can activate the power he has to enter a security code into a key pad to the side of the box. You guessed it: he had trouble remembering the code. Finally, by some miracle and after several attempts, he entered the right set of numbers. He activates the power which in turn activates a warning siren and a spinning red fire engine light, all features I presume were suggested by Home Depot's crack staff of lawyers.

"The guy proceeds to make the cut on the four foot line. As I watch, I notice that the saw blade leaves really ragged edges on both sides of the kerf. I chose not to waste my breath by commenting. I grabbed my sheets and made a beeline for the checkout, and, yes, the checkout girl was of course confused because only one sheet on my cart had a bar code." – Tom

Tom, you have our sympathy. – Editor


Shellac Over Polyurethane: from WoodCentral

For those who hate the smell of the finishes they use, the time it takes for the odor to dissipate may seem unnecessarily long. – Editor

"I'm nearly finished with a project, and I've applied a couple coats of polyurethane, but I think I'd like to do a coat or two with shellac as well to prevent the odor issues of the polyurethane. Can that be done?" – Cody

Most responses suggested that patience is the order of the day. – Editor

"Unless it's inside a closed cabinet or drawer, it's a short-lived problem." – Jerry

"I've learned that once polyurethane is cured, it really doesn't smell. I'd forget the shellac as an overcoat at this point." – George

"The smell is mostly the solvents evaporating. Drying-oil finishes cure through a chemical reaction called polymerization which can actually take months depending on conditions and the finish's formula. Putting shellac over your polyurethane will just slow down this chemical process because it will cut off much of the oxygen the oil finish needs to cure and become stable and odor-free. Let your piece sit open for a while and be patient." – Mark

For some, though, the odors are far from objectionable. – Editor

"Somehow this issue of temporary finish odor was not a problem until relatively recently. It strikes me as undue fretting. I suspect there is a significant generation gap here. Odors that I cherished because I associated them with good things, like turpentine, mothballs, varnish and freshly painted rooms, do not seem to be as appreciated these days. Once someone complained that a chest smelled like mothballs. Mothballs equate to skating, ice fishing, deer camp, sledding and snowmen. For me, the smell of varnish means a project is nearly completed, and pleasure receptors are tingling. What has happened?" – Bill

Winners and Losers

Table Saw vs. Finger: from WoodCentral

"Just a split second brain fart, and I no longer have a finger. The index finger on my right hand went up against a dado blade. The blade won. They couldn't save it, so it's gone just below the knuckle. I was using the dado blade emptying out the middle of a box top. After I had run it through, I decided to get rid of the ridges by working the piece back and forth over the blade. The wood kicked back and flipped my hand onto the blade. I myself am somewhat of a rookie, with only five projects under my belt. I know how very lucky I am, and I'm all right with it, but remember, shop safety is very important. I learned the hard way." – Edward

Naturally, there was plenty of sympathy, along with personal experiences, some quite disturbing. – Editor

"I'm very sorry to hear of your accident, and glad it wasn't worse. While I do not fear my table saw, I certainly have a tremendous respect for it. I had a summer job once where we built temporary horse stalls out of rough lumber. We had to rip it all down to size on a table saw. No guards, of course. One of our favorite pastimes was taking scrap and dropping it on the spinning blade to see how far it would go. They would fly 40 or 50 feet out into the field in the blink of an eye. Stupid? Yes. Luckily none of us were ever hurt. Heal up fast, and thanks for the safety reminder. I just wish we did not have to get reminded this way." – Don

"I have a part-time job at a woodworking store. Once in a while, I come across customers who have their hands or fingers bandaged, and they all share stories similar to poor Ed's. I always find the table saw and router the most dangerous tools in my shop and, to save my hands, palms, and fingers, I always use a push stick or push block." – Chuck

Some suggestions were about how to prevent such things for others. – Editor

"When I purchased my table saw about 35 years ago, I was being helped by an older man. He could tell that I knew nothing about saws. He went to a bookshelf and picked up a Rockwell book on table saw use. As he handed it to me he put his hand on my shoulder, looked me straight in the eyes and said, 'Son, don't turn that saw on until you read this book.' I would like to suggest to anyone else here who has not had the proper training in the use of a table saw to get and read a book about its use. All the safety principles are not intuitive. Some just have to be learned from a teacher or a book. Tools are dangerous. Following sound safety principles is simply a must in this field." – John

"I hate posting this after someone has just had an accident, because your life is forever changed by it and that sucks. But if anyone else can be persuaded to treat their table saw with the respect it deserves, then I think it is worth it. Edward, I wish you the best. Please be careful." – Rob

"Sorry for your misfortune. You might want to consider a SawStop if you continue. Your story makes me glad I decided to buy one." – Bri

Editor's Note: Be on the lookout for the May/June 2008 print issue of Woodworker's Journal for an article on how well the SawStop performs in real shops.

"Woodworking can be dangerous. I'm so sorry you lost the battle with that dado blade. Looking back, I can hardly believe that I have not had a serious table saw incident in all my years of woodworking. I'm sorry you had to suffer the consequences of an ill-considered technique. You say you only have five projects to date. I would advise you to seek more instruction before you tackle the next job. You need to raise your awareness of the kinds of things that are potentially dangerous, and learn where to draw the line. Thank you for letting us know about your incident. I hope it will be a wake-up call to others, as it was to you." – Ellis

Mostly, there was gratitude that Edward was willing to post his accident specifics in order to help others avoid it. – Editor

"I'm sorry to hear of your accident, and glad that you mentioned it here, especially the explanation of what happened, as that will help other people to understand and prevent accidents. The guys I work with seem to think I am a fanatic about safety, but I have seen too much to not be concerned about it. If you follow unsafe habits, sooner or later it will bite you. I am glad your injury was not worse, and hope you heal quickly." – Moses

"You did all of us a service by telling the story. I believe accidents are less likely to happen if a person is totally focused on the task being performed, but given our human nature, we make mistakes. Sorry you learned the hard way, and I hope you heal quickly without being put off with woodworking afterwards. Good luck, and thanks." – George


Humidity vs. Benchtop: from Sawmill Creek 

"I want to share the following with you because it happened to me. I heat the shop during winter using a forced air system. This creates a very dry heat that could result in benchtops not being as flat as we might need them. With a precision straightedge held flat on the back edge of the bench, the total gap in the top is an eighth of an inch. I recently bought a monitoring system which will allow me to monitor the relative humidity in my shop using an inexpensive hygrometer that also monitors temperature. I believe I will be able to start using a humidifier when needed, to attempt to keep the humidity in the shop fairly constant." – Al

"Looks like the underside has lost more moisture than the top. Obviously, the change in humidity is the culprit, but it was probably aided by the top having some wax or other finish applied and the underside left unfinished. You may want to apply something to the bottom surface to help minimize this effect." – John

No one disagreed, but this person added a suggestion on the best way to humidify. – Editor

"I saw a steam generator system installed in the HVAC ducting in a This Old House episode a few seasons ago. They claimed it was the most effective way to precisely control humidity during the dry months and was vastly superior to the foam wrapped squirrel cage approach. Precise humidity levels were controlled with a hygrometer controller installed in the conditioned space. I recently had my Martin guitar set up by a local luthier, and he inquired about the humidity range of my home, as it affects the instrument's performance. He told me he had one of these steam generator humidifiers installed in his shop, and it greatly stabilized his environment versus using a portable humidifier." – Peter

What Did You Say?

Wakeup Call: from Woodchat

What we hear is not always what someone else is saying. Take the case of this unusual discussion that took place on a busy woodworking message board. – Editor

"I'm new to woodworking and joined a guild to learn more. At the last meeting, I overheard someone talking about his radio alarm saw, but I have no idea what that is. I tried doing a Google search but came up empty. Does anyone out there have one of these?" – Chris

"Oh, my god, you're an idiot! They were talking about a radial arm saw, not a radio alarm saw. Just how stupid are you?" – Terry 

"Hey, there's no cause for that, jackass. Chris didn't know and the two terms sound very much alike. There's no reason to be calling anyone an idiot." – Leslie

At that point, the moderator stepped in. – Editor

"OK, calm down or take it outside. We don't call each other idiots or jackasses on this web site. Either keep it civil or I will boot both of you off." – Moderator

"With all the squabbling, no one actually explained what it is. A radial arm saw is a circular saw mounted on a cantilevered arm. Unlike a table saw, it cuts from above and is used mainly to cut long boards to length, though it can also be turned 90 degrees to make rip cuts. Many people feel it is the most dangerous of all tools because it tends to grab the wood and pull it away from you, especially in rip mode." – Pat

Awl in the Family: from Lignamate

Click to Enlarge

Wet and Dry

Working Green Wood: from WoodCentral Neanderthal Forum

"I have some log sections out of a maple tree that some friends cut down recently. It is green wood and still in log form. I am planning on using it for some footstool legs. I am unsure yet whether I will totally build the stool with hand tools or whether I will use the lathe. At any rate, I am planning on splitting the legs and stretchers for the stools out of the log as soon as I can get my hands on a froe. How should I treat the leg and stretcher blanks until I am ready to turn them, which will probably be several months?" – Rob

The first response seemed to cover it all: warnings about discoloration during drying, how to avoid it, and comments on the tools to do the job. – Editor

"You don't need a froe to split your wood. The primary splitting is done with wedges. I move to a single bit axe once I'm down in size a little bit. The only thing a froe gives you is a little better means to steer a split that isn't going well, but if the stuff splits well at all, it's not necessary. Remember to always split pieces roughly in half and things will usually split true if the stock is straight grained. I don't treat the ends of rivings. I just leave them an inch or two longer than final length and trim off any end checking. If you want to treat them, wax, latex paint or a product called Anchor Seal® are the standard treatments. I'm not sure if you were wanting to prevent end checking or actually keep the wood green. Maple stains easily if the surface is not allowed to dry, so wrapping it in plastic or sealing the whole thing will likely result in staining or spalting. The only way to keep it green and unstained that I know of is to freeze the wood until you are ready to work it. I do that with rivings for chair back splats. I freeze them while the rest of the chair parts dry and the frame is assembled." – Dave

Still, there was more good advice offered. – Editor

"Maple doesn't keep well as a log with the bark still on. There are bugs and fungi lurking out there. The smaller the pieces are split, the less checking you will have. The sooner you turn it after the tree is down, the better. If I'm not going to work chair legs from a green maple log right away, I split and turn the split pieces to a cylinder a quarter inch larger in diameter than the chair legs, then I coat the ends. It doesn't take much time because green maple turns like butter, and I know what I have. Many a split piece I've counted on being made into a leg has turned out to be not quite enough material to make the full diameter of the leg all the way around." – Greg 


Drained Dry: from WoodCentral Turning Forum

"Everything I read about compressors says you should relieve the pressure and drain the condensation every day. Do you follow these guidelines? I could see doing it every week, but is it necessary daily?" – Jim

Judging from the responses, few if any do it very often, and some almost never. – Editor

"Only when it starts spitting water." – Doug

"I drain maybe once every six months." – George

"I probably drain mine once a year, and every time I do and the orange rusty water runs out I promise myself that I'll be more diligent about doing it regularly, but I don't." – Jen

"I drained my compressor last year, or was it the year before? I'm sure I've done it at least three times this decade." – Brian

"I've drained it about once a decade." – Barry

While some answers were glib, others either felt a bit guilty or were grateful for the reminder. – Editor

"I know I should drain it at least weekly, but it probably hasn't been drained in a couple of months. Thanks for the reminder. I'll have to do that this weekend." – Don

"Guess I will do it when I go to the shop tonight. Thanks for reminding me." – Dick

"Thanks for the reminder. I'll drain tomorrow." – Ron

One explained how he overcame his distaste for the job by upgrading. – Editor

"I used to hate draining the compressor until I installed a ball valve where the drain is. Now I do not have to empty the air first. I just reach under the tank, open the valve for a second 'til the water clears, and then close it. Cost me about $5 for the parts, 10 minutes to install and made an annoying job easy and quick." – Ken

"I opted for the ball valve setup too. It is much easier than crawling under the compressor to open that teensy, tiny, hard-to-get-at petcock valve. I also added a long length of clear tubing, so I can dump the water into a bucket easily for disposal. I drain my tank about once a week, more frequently during the summer." – Steve

Thinly Veiled

New or Used?: from WoodCentral

In one of the more eye-opening threads we've read in a long time, this writer reported that he bought a new machine that may in fact have been not entirely new. – Editor

"I bought a General 80-100 jointer from an area Woodcraft. When I got it home, I noticed the main box was taped shut only: no staples. I opened the main box. The jointer assembly, the top portion with bed and fence, was sitting in the Styrofoam with no bag around it, and the area beneath the cutters was full of sawdust. I'm about 99 percent sure this indicates a used unit, but before I go ballistic with these people, I want to check that General does not test jointers at the factory prior to shipment. I had a Delta some time back and don't recall this being the case with it. Anyone have any comments?" – Dan

Is he kidding? Lots of folks had lots of comments. Here are just a few. – Editor

"I'd say it's used. I can't imagine even if the machine were test run that they would leave sawdust in it. When I bought a new Ridgid jointer, everything was encased in Styrofoam and shrinkwrapped in plastic. All of the cast-iron was coated with a petroleum-based coating as well." – Nat

"I believe you did get a used jointer. I would recommend you contact the supplier and apprise them of the sawdust you found. I would ask them to price adjust for a used machine, or take it back altogether for a full refund. Good as it may look, it's dishonest to represent it as new." – George

Not everyone agreed, though. – Editor

"They do test jointers before they ship them. Seems to me it would be foolish not to test the machine before they ship. If the machine had had enough use to show wear on the parts, that's another thing entirely, but a little residual sawdust is to me only evidence of a final test. If they don't get all the sawdust out, so what? It ain't like it was a hamburger or a pair of shoes." – Forrest

And speaking of hamburgers… -- Editor

"My Powermatic planer came with someone's lunch bag and remains packed in it. Stuff happens." – Bill

Then came word from a vendor that does indeed test. – Editor

"Recently, we have been opening, inspecting and often running equipment before we package and ship it. The reasons are twofold: First, the packaging and QC at many of our suppliers seems to be getting less thorough than it used to be five years ago. Second, we seem to be dealing with new consumers who have no stomach for reading the instructions or following them. This results often in unreasonable phone calls and demands resulting directly from not understanding what they purchased or how to properly use it.
So we test before shipping. The customer gets a "used" machine that we know is working properly and has no defects. We do put a note in the package to explain why we do this. You will have to take my word for it, but it happens more than most of you think. You would be surprised at how many returns we get that are improperly repackaged by the customer demanding a full refund and then having a scenario like this one." – Bob

At that point, the person who posted the original question came back on with this followup information. – Editor
 
"Thanks for the replies. Yup, it's used. I went out and took a closer look. One of the blades is nicked. I don't think this was intentional deception, just bungling. I think I'll just return it. So now, after I thought I'd finally figured out which jointer and from where, I'm back in the market again." – Dan

"Sounds like you are done with this used item, which I think is wise. If you did keep it, even at a discount, I think the bigger fear is never knowing what the real reason was for the return. The fact that the dealer tried to hide it or at least didn't mention that it was returned brings his credibility into question. My General was not pre-tested, not opened or taped, or full of sawdust, and nothing was missing. It looked like I was the first person to open it up since it was packaged and shipped." – Mark

There was one rather interesting dissenting opinion, though, and it contained in it a bit of rebuke as well. – Editor

"Let me make sure I understand this clearly. You have a top-of-the-line, gorgeous General jointer setting in your shop, and you are returning it because it has a nick on the blade and some sawdust in it and is missing a plastic bag and you think perhaps you are not the first owner. Now you are going to return it and settle for something that's probably not as good as this General. This is just my opinion, but if I was fortunate enough to actually buy a General jointer, I would be thrilled to death with it. Words simply could not describe the feeling I would have. Apparently, you have always had plenty and do not know how to appreciate something like this when you have it." – Moses


Thin Strips: from WoodCentral

"I once saw a setup for safe cutting of identical, three-foot-long eighth-inch strips on a power saw. I even found a video on youtube, but somehow I'm missing the article that showed how to cut strips. I need the strips tens at a time. I thought about building a gang saw but ,while I need a lot of the strips, it's easier if I do it with what I have, if I can locate the jig. I'm looking for a specific device. I have a lot of research materials, but I keep missing the one jig for which I am searching. Please list any places you know of or the source for a thin-cut jig." – Gary

Someone posted a video, but apparently, it was not what Gary had in mind. – Editor

"Gary, I use this method and it works great. Here is a link to a video by Charles Neil on cutting thin strips." – David

"Thank you for that information. I did view that video, and it is not the one I'm looking for." – Gary

No problem. Soon someone offered another take on the problem that Gary liked better, while another pointed out that there is a ready-to-buy jig just for that job. – Editor

"How about this tip from Woodworker's Journal?" – North

"Rockler has what they call a 'Thin Rip Tablesaw Jig' that I have had good luck with. It's easy to use, and I get very consistent results." – Bill

Taming Wood and Cans

Taming Bird's-eye: from Women in Woodworking

"I am wondering if anyone has any tips for planing and routing bird's-eye maple to avoid chipping out." – Averymom

"Dampen it slightly. Use very, very sharp tools set for a very fine cut." – Johanna

Apparently, that worked. The original poster came back to report in and say thanks. – Editor

"Dampening the wood made all the difference. Sharp tools, patience and a little moisture did the trick. Thanks again." – Averymom
 

Shellac Leaks: from WoodCentral

"A couple of years ago, I purchased a can of SealCoat™. After a short time, the can developed pinhole leaks in the bottom and leaked on the shelf. I got a new paint can from HD and transferred the stuff. Again, pinholes soon developed. I mentioned this to a clerk at my local Rockler store. Strange, but he had experienced the same problem. I call the 800 number at Zinsser, and they sent me a coupon for a free gallon of SealCoat. I thought I'd ask if anybody here has had any similar experience." – John

"Yep, I had the same problem with the last two gallons." – Wess

"It's happened to me a few times. I buy it by the quart, and two different cans leaked." – David

"This happened to me about a year ago. Now I transfer it to a plastic container after I buy a new can." – Louie

Eventually, someone offered a possible explanation. – Editor

"Shellac is acidic and can react with metal. I'm surprised that the acidity would be sufficient to actually corrode the metal enough to break through. The cans are supposed to be coated to prevent that reaction, and I'd suspect some quality control problem on the can lining." – Steve

Another possibility was raised. – Editor

"Perhaps they're stirring with something metal and scratching the coating on the inside of the can." – Jason

"I agree that sounds like something is damaging the coating on the inside bottom of the can. I only stir finishes with wooden stirrers." – Howard

"SealCoat doesn't need to be stirred." – John

"That doesn't mean that people are not stirring SealCoat." – Howard

"I don't stir mine, and I've had the same problem. Glad someone spoke up because I wondered why and how this happened." – Brian

As is often the case on message boards, people will call for input from visitors known to have some expertise in the subject. That's what happened here. – Editor

"Where's Michael Dresdner when you need him?" – Tim

The request worked. – Editor

"I'm here, and with some answers. Steve and others got it right. Shellac is indeed acidic enough to eat through steel cans, and for that reason, the cans are lined with epoxy. As some folks pointed out, stirring SealCoat is not necessary, and stirring with metal, like the screwdriver you just used to open the lid, can also scratch the thin epoxy lining and cause the problem. Even tiny voids in the epoxy liner can result in the pinholes you are seeing. There's not much Zinsser or any company can do but pray that their suppliers are consistent and reliable, but of course, that is a pipe dream in today's world. Switching the contents to plastic will solve the problem. Finally, do get back to Zinsser with these issues. The only way Zinsser can know when one of their suppliers, in this case the folks who make the cans, is slipping on the job is with feedback from you. I hope this helps." – Michael

Build It and Flaunt It

Building for Fun: from WoodCentral

"I saw a shelf in a magazine recently and wanted to make one, but it would cost four to five times as much to make one as it would to buy one. I modified it and made it out of melamine. I even thought about making a bed for the master bedroom, but the cost is many times what it would cost to buy. Please give me a better way of looking at this hobby. The cost of it all is killing me." – Ken

"Ken, I hear your pain. A few years ago, I bought a Mission style bed at a furniture store because of the same reason you stated." – Chuck

For most of us, it seems the cost of wood and tools is fairly irrelevant. There are other less obvious but very valid reasons to build it yourself. – Editor

"When you build it, you know the quality. There's also the satisfaction of being able to say 'I built that.' If it's a hobby, it should be more about the enjoyment you get out of the process than the money going into it." – Steve

"You have to factor in the $150 an hour you are not paying the shrink while getting your head together building things. You really can't compare the cost of what you make with a storebought item. It's a hobby; it should be fun and relaxing. If the end result is useful, all the better. If your hobby was fishing, you would not factor in the price of a boat, trailer and new truck to pull it against the price of fish at the market, so don't do it with woodworking. If you are trying to beat the price, then it's another job, and you don't want to be working another job nights and weekends, so keep it a fun hobby." – Bill

"Golf isn't cost-effective either, though that Tiger fellow seems to made a go of it." – Curly

"Many woodworkers get into woodworking because it enables them to have the quality of furniture they want, that they could otherwise not afford. Others pursue the hobby as a satisfying way to spend time without regard to economics." – Bill

"The best made melamine bookshelf or bed may have a life expectancy of eight  to 10 years. The best made oak bookshelf or bed may have a life expectancy of three to four generations. Having a great-grandchild say. 'My great-grandfather made this when he was a young man' is priceless." – Ron

For some, it is not only the satisfaction, but the ability to get exactly what you want. – Editor

"I made a spice rack recently. That is an item you can buy anywhere, but I wanted mine a very specific way. It holds 184 spice bottles in an efficient horizontal orientation. While spice racks are everywhere, the exact thing I wanted could only be had by making it myself." – Justin

"Many years ago, I built my own computers. Back then you could actually build one yourself for less than buying new. Things have changed. However, my reason for it today would solely be to get one exactly the way I want it. I find the same thing with furniture. I see pieces out there for less than I can build them. The thing is, I know the difference between them and what I'd build. So whenever I have the chance and time to build for myself, I don't worry about the cost nearly as much as putting quality and craftsmanship into my work while building as fine a piece as I know how. In the end, I have something truly special that will stand the test of time and live on as a reminder of one of the things I did while on this earth. We're all in this craft because there's a love inside of us to create with wood in all of its beauty and splendor, and you can't put a price on the journey of learning the craft of working wood." – David

"One of my primary benefits of woodworking is that I can build exactly what I want in terms of size and configuration. Some things, like dining room chairs, I buy because the investment in tools and skills and the fact that we can buy exactly what we want makes it sensible for us. It seems to me that there are two reasons to build furniture: the desire of the artist to create an object as perfect as possible for its own sake, and the ability to have exactly what you want." – Jim


Dovetails for Show: from WoodCentral

The owner of a now-successful wood manufacturing company once proclaimed, "Anything worth doing is worth doing poorly." Being willing to sell his early crude attempts gave him the time and money to learn, improve, and grow his company. This interesting thread brought that to mind. – Editor

"Earlier, someone asked about an aide for learning to make dovetails. This joint would be used more if people were less intimidated by the standards that have evolved for it. Dovetails are the best way to construct many common projects such as casework and drawers. Hence, it is not helpful for experienced woodworkers to dissuade apprentices from using this joint. Yet, that is exactly what they do with this fixation of flaunting perfect dovetails. Dovetails used to be a sign of quality construction. Now, it seems, a perfect dovetail has become the entry fee for peer acceptance and a parlor trick to impress an audience. The dovetail joint has great strength, and a far less than perfect dovetail will hold a case or drawer together just fine. Go to antique stores and see what quality of dovetail is adequate to hold something together for 200 years. Let that be your standard. Force yourself to use dovetails every chance you have. If they hold the piece together, you have been successful. Show others so that they may be encouraged to try it. Your less than perfect dovetail may have more positive impact on promoting this useful joint." –Bill

Preach it, brother! I couldn't agree more. I think one should always strive to do the best one can and to continually improve, but perfection, while an admirable goal, is an unreasonable baseline." – Jim

"Nothing ventured, nothing failed. I think you just illustrated why I have never tried dovetails on anything but scrap." – Henry

"One of these days, I'll be cutting handsome dovetails, but I'm gonna make a lot of not-so-handsome ones before then. We all need encouragement from time to time to keep working on our skills. Thanks for the good words!" – Jesse

"Years ago, I heard a wise person say that we need to teach the principle of 'good enough.' The degree of perfection in a given task should be measured by how well a given task or project fits its intended use. Demanding perfection in every task only discourages trying in the first place." – John

We'll end this with a quote from one of our favorite philosophers, Hallack Brendan, who said, "Sometimes the best becomes the enemy of the good." – Editor

Wayward Metal, Floating Wood

Steel Wool Woes: from WoodCentral

Yet another woodworker learns the potential dangers of mixing steel wool with wood and finish. – Editor

"Last night I was rubbing down a couch end table with 0000 steel wool before putting on the third coat of finish. When I was blowing off the table with compressed air afterwards, the pores in the red oak looked a little darker to me. When I looked closer, I noticed that many of the pores were filled with little bits of steel wool, over the whole table. I spent over an hour trying to clean it all out, but still couldn't get it all. Am I doing something wrong, or am I buying the wrong brand or type of steel wool?" – Ken

"Steel wool of any manufacturer should never be used between coats of finish. It is very hard to remove every bit of it, and any that remains will show up as black spots right away or later when water vapor gets to it. If you must use steel wool, use it after all the finish has been applied." – Jerry

"Also, never use steel wool with any sort of waterborne finish. The wool bits will rust and make a mess of your finish." – Jason

"Is it dark because the steel wool bits are just lying in the pores or is the wood actually changing color? Iron will react with the tannins in oak to turn the wood black. Switching to a ScotchBrite® pad will accomplish the smoothing action you are attempting to achieve without leaving shreds of metal along the way." – Alan

That's a good question, and folks had remedies for both. – Editor

 "You might be able to remove the dark stains by applying some oxalic acid mix to the table. You can get this in a good paint store. I've also seen a product called 'Deck Brightener' that had oxalic acid as the main ingredient. In situations such as carvings and whatnot where you need to use a metal wool, get some bronze wool at a marine supply store. A bit spendy, but no rust or stains." – Dusty

"When you are done rubbing out, take a piece of paper and wrap it around a pretty good magnet. Pass the magnet slowly over the finish. Lots of steel wool will come up, though probably not all. Unwrap and toss the paper, and your magnet is clean; then use compressed air." – Ron

One reader pointed out that in this case, sandpaper may have been a better option anyway. – Editor

"Sandpaper does a much better job at cutting off dust nibs and other defects, and used on a sanding block can also help flatten the finish, while steel wool just follows the hills and valleys." – Steve


Floating Tenons: from Sawmill Creek

"About a year ago, I made an impulse buy on a Delta mortise and tenon machine. I'm halfway through a futon project based on plans I got at Rockler. The end frames have a rail and style construction that calls for dowels. I was thinking of using a M&T joint, but I thought of it too late. I cut the rails to size per the plans. I should have left them oversize so I could have cut the tenons on them. I was thinking of using loose tenons that I hear talked about once in a while here. Do I have to use a router or some other tool to mill the mortise into the end of the long rails?" – Mike

"You rout out a mortise on all connecting pieces. The tenon is a separate piece of wood. Think of it as a big biscuit." – Paul

"I use loose tenon joinery all the time. Build a very simple router jig and use your plunge router to cut mortises, then make your tenon blank with rounded sides and cut to length." – Frank

That's the simple answer, but someone else gave a far more detailed one. – Editor

"I use a plunge router with a spiral carbide up-cut bit and a template guide bushing in conjunction with a simple MDF jig made on the router table. I make a three-quarter-inch slot in a piece of quarter-inch MDF. The length of the slot equals the width of the tenon plus twice the offset of the guide bushing. I screw through the face of the template into an edge of a square piece of three-quarter-inch four by six hardwood which acts as a clamping point and a fence. I lay out a mortise on the thickest workpiece, for example the leg on a leg and apron assembly. Clamp the template to the workpiece, clamp the hardwood fence to the opposing face, and assemble the jig. In cases where an apron joins a leg with a set back, I prepare a shim to slip between the fence and workpiece for the thinner parts equal to the required setback. I use a three-quarter-inch OD brass bushing for half- or three-eighths mortises. Remember to center the base plate carefully with a centering pin. With the jig securely clamped to the workpiece, plunge a hole at each end of the mortise, then go back and take light passes to clear out the stock between these holes. Always reference the jig from the outward face of each work iece to nullify any centering issues. Additionally, you will need to accurately mill loose tenon stock, rip it to width, rip shallow channels in the faces to relieve hydraulic pressure once glue is applied, and round over the edges using four passes with a radius equal to half the tenon thickness. It actually took me more time to write this post than it typically takes to set up my router and make a pair of mortises. It's really less confusing than it sounds." – Peter

We're glad to hear that. – Editor

Wood (or Not) and Fumes

Which Wood?: from Sawmill Creek

"I can't decide on a long-lasting outdoor wood species for a patio set. I'm trying to build an outdoor patio set with benches, chairs and a long table. I am considering white oak, but I read white oak splits after time. How is ash?  Teak is too expensive, and I found Western cedar to be the same high price range." – Sam

There were plenty of opinions. – Editor

"Cypress is renowned for outdoor wood. Teak is a good one. Ipe is durable but very hard. Cedar is great but is soft and easily dinged." – Chris

"White oak will probably be the most rot-resistant out of the three you mentioned. Osage orange or locust would be what I would call our native equivalent to teak here in the Midwest. I would venture to bet that it will actually outlast teak, but I can't compare because I have never seen a teak fence post to compare it to. Around here, rough-cut cedar is pretty inexpensive, but as Chris said, is not a hardwood. If you're in the South, I understand that cypress is the wood of choice, but I'm not in the South, so I don't find it common around here." – Homer

"I would vote for Western cedar for the furniture. White oak, though long-lasting outdoors, will weigh a ton. Ipe will weigh more than oak. Ash is not normally associated with outdoor furniture and is not as rot-resistant as, say, cherry or walnut when used outdoors." – Lee

"Cypress would be my choice, but I'm from the South, and that was not one of your choices. White oak would be nice but it will be a little heavy." – Von

"How about Port Orford cedar? I've used it to make picket fences and gates. Nice to work with." – Jay

"I made an outdoor shower out of Port Orford cedar, and it's held up pretty well. That is one of the nicest smelling woods I have ever cut. Seems a bit stronger than Western red cedar, but I'm not sure. Has a cool 'glow' when it's new that turns a dull silver in my area with age. Not at all cheap here on the East Coast. I'd avoid ash; not too rot-resistant unless you bury it in an epoxy shell. Design-wise, cedar or redwood furniture always has that chunky country picnic table look because it's not very strong, so you need to use thicker stock to make any significant span. I like hard woods if you're going for a more elegant English garden look. Otherwise, cedar is fine. White oak or mahogany would be my primary choices. White oak does tend to check a bit at the ends, but sealing with a good penetrating sealer should minimize this." – Peter

"I'd go with the cedar and finish it with spar urethane. Cypress may be a bit harder, but you didn't mention it originally. Ash is bad for outdoors. It isn't very rot-resistant, and the bugs just love it." – Jeremy

Then came a truly radical suggestion. – Editor

"This may be sacrilege, but has anyone built any outdoor furniture from the Trex® or similar product? I'm considering some Adirondacks. It is heavy enough to stay put and easy to machine. Please don't excommunicate me, or withdraw my SMC privileges if this thought is too offensive." – John

"I haven't built furniture from Trex, but I did use Kleer™ polyurethane boards extensively on my porch remodel. It mills like pine but lasts like plastic. It's dead stable on short lengths and holds paint well. I hate working it because it smells like skunk and its positive charge causes it to stick to everything, including the inside of the DC system, and the farm where I drop my shavings doesn't want any plastic in the mix. Kleer isn't structural like Trex, but I appreciate the longevity factor. I also appreciate the unique feeling of hardwood warmed gently by the sun on the arms of an Adirondack chair. I'd be curious if a Trex chair would have that unique tactile quality of real wood, and if not, would you be willing to trade that feeling for longevity and ease of maintenance?" – Peter


Fumes: from WoodCentral

This question was posted on a woodworking web site as OT, or off topic. Even though it talks about fumes from cleaning agents, the good information that other readers offered is actually very valuable to us woodworkers as well. – Editor

"My wife uses a consumer level cleaner to clean the shower. The fumes are very irritating to her nose and lungs. All windows are open and the exhaust fan is running, to no avail. The active ingredients are 'organic acids, surfactants and fragrance. Contains no phosphorous.' I am looking for an effective mask or respirator which will filter out the fumes. Any suggestions?" – Rich

Several thought the first line of information should be the manufacturer. – Editor

"The manufacturer should be able to steer you to proper protective equipment, if they have acknowledged the need for it. But, I'd tend to be proactive and rig up an exhaust fan or two, blowing out the windows." – Ellis

"The MSDS will tell you what protection is required. Contact the supplier and ask for a copy of their Material Safety Data Sheet. They are required to give you a copy. Unless the product label specifically advises a respirator, the fumes are probably not dangerous. But, they can be irritating." – Howard

Others proffered more specific advice. – Editor

"You need an air-purifying respirator with an organic vapor acid gas cartridge; something along the lines of a 3M series 6000 or series 7000 gas mask and the appropriate cartridge. If you go with the half-mask version, then you'll also need chemical goggles." – Curly

"Just because it is sold retail doesn't mean it can't hurt you without proper safety equipment. In this case, use an organic vapor respirator and elbow-length gloves." – Dave

Then there was the obvious, something almost always suggested when the discussion involves finish solvents instead of cleaners. – Editor

"Find a different cleaner." – Mark

Blades and Stones

Small Radius: from Women in Woodworking

"In Mark Duginske's book, The Complete Guide to the Bandsaw, he says that with a quarter inch blade you can cut a curve with radius of curvature equal to that of a quarter. I can come nowhere near this. The best I can do, with considerable blade flexing, is a radius of more than one and a half inches. I also get noticeable burning of the wood. I am using four quarter maple and yellowheart. Can someone suggest what the likeliest problem is? Could it be poor technique, though I am trying to follow his directions, a cheap Craftsman 10 inch saw, a dull blade, low tension, a cheap blade, a dirty blade or something else?" – Toysandpuzzles

What seemed like a fairly simple question generated a very precise primer on setting up the band saw for tight radius cutting. – Editor

"Most of the things you mentioned could cause your issues. Here are a few ideas to try. First, make sure the tension is right. Tighten the tension gauge up so it is a bit above the gauge marks for your quarter inch blade. Second, make very sure that your guides are set properly above and below the table. I'm guessing your Craftsman has guide blocks. They need to be keeping the blade in place, but not binding. Try slipping a piece of copy paper between the blade and the guide block when you tighten it. Also, be sure not to push the blade to one side or the other as you set the blocks. The blocks should be supporting the blade behind the teeth, not covering them. Then set the thrust bearings, the ones behind the blade, so that the blade is just in front of them. Again, use the paper shims to set a slight gap. Third, for really tight radii, you want a blade with fewer teeth and a good set on the teeth. Set is the amount that the teeth are bent to each side of the blade. The teeth then cut a wider kerf which allows the body of the blade to follow the curve without binding. Fourth, if you have a small grinding stone, use it to gently round the back edges of the blade. With the saw running, just lightly rub the stone on the two back corners being sure to avoid the teeth. You can buy stones mounted on a wooden handle just for this. Picture in your mind what is going on here. You are trying to cut a curved line with a short, straight line segment. The tighter the curve, the more likely that the line segment will bind up. Widening the curve by cutting a slightly wider kerf will help, as will rounding the back edges. Hope this helps." – Ralph


Cleaning Stones: from WoodCentral

"I have a few honing stones that are a few years old and are dirty. What is the best way, if any, to clean them? They seem like they are plugged or filled up with dirt. Can this be? I tried to blow them out with the air compressor, and didn't seem to do anything. Can they be cleaned?" – Larry

Two folks assumed the writer was talking about oil stones. – Editor

"I am assuming you are talking about oil stones and not water stones. If you have used a honing oil with them as I do, they should be pretty easy to clean. Mine come clean very easily by putting honing oil on the surface and rubbing with my finger tip to pick up the old oil and contaminates, then I wipe them clean with a rag. I always pre-coat my oil stones with honing oil. This makes any particles easy to remove after use." – Larry

"I've had some success with soaking the stones in kerosene. It seems to loosen the filings that clog the stones. After a day or so, a stiff bristle brush gets the stone clean." – Jim

Not everyone assumed that. This gent gave a rundown for cleaning just about every type of stone. – Editor

"It depends upon what kind of honing stones you are talking about. If they are water stones, I would just go through the procedure to re-flatten them, which would clean up the surface. If they are Arkansas type stones, I have had success washing and scrubbing mine using toothpaste and rinsing, then drying thoroughly. Same treatment for ceramic stones. If they are the porous carborundum type stones, I have had some success using Simple Green to wash them, but I would not soak them in Simple Green as I'm afraid this might destroy whatever is used as a binder. If you were talking about diamond stones, I have cleaned these by washing and scrubbing with scouring powder and a fingernail brush." – Bob

Trunk bottoms, cutting boards

Trunk Bottom: from WoodCentral

It's not unusual for someone to post a whole handful of questions at once on a message board. If enough people respond, eventually all your questions get answers. Here's a good example. – Editor

"How are trunk bottoms installed? Like a drawer bottom in a dado, but what about expansion? Leave it open on the back like a drawer? I have a vision of a coopered, curved top, rift oak toy chest. Any ideas for a secret compartment for a trunk? Any trunk ideas in general? Never made a trunk before or examined one closely." – Bill

First came suggestions for bottoms. – Editor

"I have made quite a few blanket boxes and chests, although no toy chests. The most satisfactory bottom method I've found is a wide, three-eighths to half-inch tongue-and-groove with half-inch shiplap coming in a close second. I leave enough gap in fitting the bottom boards to allow for the expected movement. If I'm feeling fancy, I might rabbet the ends of each board and the outer edges as appropriate so that they can fit down into the mounting cleats or dado a bit, giving a little more volume in the chest without sacrificing much strength. Using a dado around the chest bottom works fine but makes repairs impossible. I finally settled on a cleat all around the bottom edge, maybe half by half-inch. This is screwed in place flush with the bottom edge of the sides so that it can be removed. The bottom boards are then laid in place. I use a very thin piece of weatherstrip in the grooves both to seal against dust and bugs as well as to help center the boards. Boards are laid in place, and both end strips are fastened lightly to the cleats using a couple of brads. I then fit half-inch quarter-round with mitered ends to hold the bottom strips down against the cleats. This trim is glued and tacked in place with brads since it will be permanent, any repairs being made by removing the bottom cleats. I have used similar construction for drawers that will be expected to hold a lot of weight, and it works well there, too, allowing me to dovetail all of the corners of the drawer for strength and supporting the bottom all around." – John

"If the trunk is plywood, use a plywood bottom and you have no problems. If the trunk will be made from solid wood and the grain on the front, back and sides all runs in the horizontal direction, you can again use plywood and glue it in. If, however, you want to use a solid wood bottom, then use the technique that John suggested. Or, use some other technique but allow enough depth in the bottom groove for the bottom to expand and contract. Don't glue it in. Personally, unless you are trying to make a strict period copy, I would recommend a plywood bottom." – Howard

"I have grandchildren. How they play with and in their toy chest is not gentle. When I build them theirs, it will be industrial strength; maybe with an inch-and-a-quarter subfloor as a bottom layer, blocked up with framing timbers." – Glenn

Now for the hidden drawer part of the question. – Editor

"I've put hidden compartments into chests by adding a three- or four-inch base molding around the bottom of the chest and making the front piece of molding the front of a drawer. Picture a chest on chest arrangement. The bottom of the chest obviously has to be raised to allow room for the drawer, and the ends of the front piece of molding must be carefully done so that when the drawer is closed, it isn't too visible. I've used mitered corners, but they tend to get a little ragged over time, and it loses the effect, so I now extend the drawer front so it looks like the sides butt into the back of the drawer front. Relieve the bottom of the drawer front with a cutout so it looks like the chest is sitting on legs so you can get fingers under it.
You can also just add a false bottom sitting on cleats above the real bottom. Two problems with this are that the chest must be empty before you can get to the false bottom, and there needs to be a finger hole, which can be obvious, or some other way to get the bottom out, like magnets." – Neal


Cherry for Cutting Boards: from Sawmill Creek

"I've got a few cutting boards I need to make, and was thinking about incorporating some cherry into this batch. As I was tinkering with the stock, I started feeling like this wood might be too soft to use in a piece that will take many knife swipes. Is cherry a hard enough wood to use in a cutting board?" – Keith

Most everyone thought there was no problem with that. – Editor

"Yes, it is hard enough, but it will last longer, as will any cutting board wood, if the grain is oriented vertically instead of flat." – Dewey

"I don't know why not. It's a common choice for flooring. It may not be as hard as some maple or hickory, but it's plenty hard." – Cliff

"I used it in a few cutting boards I made and it's holding up fine." – Matt

"I wouldn't hesitate to use cherry. End grain is easier on your knife edges, but cutting boards are by nature sacrificial. If they last too long, it means they're not being used, and that is a sin." – Jeremy

Then a chef had his say. – Editor

"For use at home, I would think cherry would be a fine choice. For a commercial work surface used daily, I think cherry is a poor choice. As a former professional chef, I can tell you that my razor-sharp high carbon chef's knifes are going to damage any wooden surface upon which they are used eventually, be they end grain or edge grain. Wooden cutting boards require maintenance over their lifetime, and in that respect cherry should be easier to sand or plane, when the time comes, than a harder wood." – Peter

The Path Not Taken

Overwhelming Respect: from WoodCentral

The table saw is perhaps the most pernicious tool from the standpoint of safety. These two threads show an interesting reaction to that danger. The first is from someone who got bitten but had the courage to continue. He describes his ordeal of overcoming the fear to get back on the horse. - Editor

“Hello everyone. Some of you might remember an earlier post of mine about cutting off my finger on a table saw in February. Well, the nub is doing great. I'm in the process of getting a prosthetic finger. I got back on the horse and am woodworking again, with a much greater respect for my tools. I was making a knockdown cradle for a friend before I had my accident. The baby was born, so I needed to finish the cradle before she outgrew it. To be honest, I didn't know if I was ready, but there was only one way to find out. I turned on the table saw, stood there for a minute and let it run. My heart was in my throat. I had to turn it off and walk away for a minute. Looking at the wood, I knew it wouldn't cut itself, so I went back and did it. As soon as I was done, I grabbed a smoke and a beer and that was all the woodworking for the day. I have been back to the saw now 10 more times, and each time it's a little less nerve-racking, but the fear is still there. I'm not going to let it stop me from doing something I get pleasure from; I'm going to take that fear and use it to make me a smarter, safer, better woodworker. I would like to thank all of you here at WoodCentral for your words of encouragement and good wishes. It helped to get back on that horse.” - Ed

The same community that helped with encouragement responded with respect and gratitude for his courage in sharing that experience. - Editor

“And thank you for sharing with us. Maybe it will help some of us remember that tools are dangerous and we all need to treat them with respect.” -  Barry

“It takes a bit of courage to start a thread about your mishap here. It can be a dangerous hobby. Safety first, and if a reminder is a couple of severed tendons, or a stubby finger, then take what life gives you, but don't let that keep you from enjoying woodworking. Allow it heighten your sense of safety.” - Brian

Overwhelming Fear: from Women in Woodworking

This thread also deals with the fear of table saw injury, but in this case, the fear came first and completely altered the person’s approach. Read on, and you will see what we mean. – Editor

“I have wanted to get into woodworking for a long time. Years ago, I bought a table saw, having no idea what I was doing. My friends and mom were very worried that I'd cut myself, and it got to me, so at that point, I started searching for a class to take or someone to show me how to use the table saw. After about a year, having found no one, I finally sold the saw. I never even used it. Another problem is that I live in an apartment, so woodworking with power tools is too loud. However, I really want to design and build furniture. I read about it all the time, but it's not the same as doing it. Can anyone suggest what I can do to learn to use different power tools safely? Watching shows and reading doesn't seem to be enough. Is there a saw that will make straight and miter cuts that is less intimidating than a table saw? And what can I do about the noise level since I live in an apartment? Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks.” – Mathchick

“A band saw is certainly safer than a table saw and is very, very versatile.
Where do you live? We might be able to help you find some good training.” – Johanna

“Thanks for responding. I live in the Ft. Lauderdale area, and I've searched. So far, all I have seen is some woodworking guild, and from what I can tell, those in it are very experienced. The workshops seem to be about advanced topics. Also, any ideas about doing cutting with a saw in an apartment? Is there such a thing as a noise diffuser?” – Mathchick74

First came a suggestion of where to find classes nearby. – Editor

Constantine’s Wood Center of Florida might offer weekend classes and seminars. I've been buying supplies from them for years, and I suspect they might have a bulletin board in their store with info about local woodworking groups and/or classes. Their site is: http://www.constantines.com I would definitely start there. As far as tools go, I suggest looking for a continuing education class with your local college or high school. I taught those classes for years, and they were great for teaching the basics. The fees were reasonable, and by the end of a couple of classes I had students who were building anything from beds to tables, kitchen cabinets to home accessories. Just my personal opinion, but a table saw is the heart and soul of a woodshop. If you don't have one, it's going to be difficult to do many common operations. So check out lessons, learn to use one safely, and then decide if you want to buy another one or not. Good luck.” – Jamie

“The first suggestion might be to dive into any class that you can find. Although many may be experienced, there is always someone that loves to share knowledge with a newbie. We all started there. As far as a saw, for quite a while I used a small cordless power saw to cut sheets down to size. They are gutless, but if you are only doing a little at a time. which is probably your only choice in an apartment, they work fine. They are relatively quiet. You can even drop your sheet down in the middle of a lumberyard parking lot and cut right on site.” – K

Then came a radically different, and very wise, suggestion that may very well solve all the problems in one shot. – Editor

“I would suggest that, because of your restrictions, you consider using mostly hand tools. IMHO, it is difficult to make really fine furniture without a working knowledge of their use as an addition to power. As your conditions change, you might be able to add power tools. A band saw is a relatively quiet tool that you could probably use in an apartment. A really good site for hand tool questions and resources is http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/handtools.pl. – Barbara

Save Wood, Save a Futon

Green Wood: from Women in Woodworking

“They took a truckload of veneer logs off the back of our place a month or so ago. There is a lot of big wood left in the tops. I would like to actually make something out of some of this. The cherry is beautiful. Should I get it roughsawn first? Cut it to lengths, let it dry indoors whole, get it sawn in a couple of years? Bark on,  bark off? This is Michigan and it is pretty humid. Will it realistically dry in a pole barn? I read the posts about drying turned pieces in the microwave, but I was thinking about benches and larger pieces. Any ideas?” – Kathryn

As is often the case on a good message board, she got tons of great advice from people who actually do that sort of thing regularly. – Editor

“You can get someone with a portable sawmill to come in and saw the wood up. Now is better than later. The wood can be stickered and allowed to air dry in your pole barn. Here in Virginia, air-dried wood will get down to 12-14 percent. For projects that will be used inside, it is good to have the moisture around 6-9 percent. Air-dried wood can, of course, be used inside but will lose more moisture and will shrink. How long it takes to air dry will depend on the thickness, type of wood, and actual humidity. Forget the year per inch rule of thumb. I have run a WoodMizer sawmill since 1985 and know a little bit about sawing. You will want to have an idea of the thickness of the lumber based on the projects you want to complete. You should also have an idea of how the logs should be sawn; quarter or rift, flat, for figure and so on. This also in part is related to the species of tree. WoodMizer has a referral service; I am sure some of the other mill manufacturers do, too. You can find a sawyer close to you. I would be glad to discuss this over the phone if you like.” – Barbara

“Barbara is exactly right. If you are a cabinet maker, take it to a sawmill immediately, decide what thickness you will use and get it cut. Don't cut it any thicker than you think you will use, as it is just more prone to splits and checks. If you're making furniture, most wood is cut to 1.25 to 1.5 inches in thickness allowing some shrinkage to ultimately leave you with wood that can be planed down to three quarter to one inch in finished size. If you are a turner, the story is different. The bark off and cut the log through the middle as a minimum or the outside perimeter will crack, leaving you with firewood. Take some old paint and seal the ends. You need to clog up the end grain or it will lose excessive moisture and crack. Pile it out of the sun, but where you have airflow. Cherry is one of the easier woods to dry, although as Barb suggests, you'll never get it much below 12 percent. Yes, you can microwave small pieces, but most of my customers will do a rough turning to clear out a lot of the excess wood and then put it in an old microwave for short periods of time. Some of my customers also sit them in dry sawdust from the shop to offer a more gentle environment for drying. Cherry is a beautiful wood and worth salvaging.” – Karen


Futon Repair: from Women in Woodworking

“I have a queen-size oak futon and need to replace one of the two stretchers, a one-inch by three-inch by 80-inch oak board. The futon shop I bought this from suggested that I just buy an oak board and do it myself. I bought a red oak board today, along with a three-eighths-inch boring bit for my hand drill. I need to put two holes in each of the board's narrow one- by three-inch ends. Then, on the flat three-inch by eight-foot side, I need to bore a three-eighth-inch hole halfway through the board. The idea is that you have special futon hex bots that go through the futon arm, into the end of the stretcher, and then you lock the bolt with a special futon barrel nut. What is the best way to drill the end holes without splitting the oak board? I'm comfortable using a drill for repairs around the house, but I have never used it to drill through a new piece of narrow oak wood before. Any suggestions? – tryin2learn

“The easiest approach is to drill a smaller hole first, say one eighth of an inch, and then go to the size required. Wrap masking tape around the drill bit to mark the correct depth. Oak has a grain that is open pored. Thus, you hit high and low density sections that want to make the bit wander. It is less prone to this if you drill a smaller pilot hole first. Aside from that, you may have an issue with strength. I have used a similar type of connection with handrail installations, and by the time you drill the correct size of hole for the lag, you typically have very little wood left to play with on either side.. if you are able, I'd take some of the leftover pieces of one by three and glue them on the ends to reinforce or go to a thicker material, say five quarter or a full one inch in thickness. It will be a little harder to find, and you may have to visit a local woodworking shop.” – Karen

Chest and Drawers

First, Do No Harm: from WoodCentral

“A guy at work bought an 18th century chest of drawers, and when he got it home, he noticed a dent in the side. The dent is approximately eight inches long and the width of the tip of a ballpoint pen. I was thinking that putting a damp cloth on the scratch and then a hot iron over the cloth might force the wood to absorb moisture and recover. Anyone have ideas on this, please?” – John

The first comments addressed the efficacy of steaming dents, both with and without finish. – Editor

“I've used this method on raw wood with a steam iron, and it works well. I think I read someplace that it will also work when there is a finish on the wood, but it takes more time. You might want to try this on a section of the piece that is hidden from direct view to see if any damage is caused by the steam. For example, if the finish is oil-based, the steam might raise the grain if the piece was not planed or not sanded fine enough.” – Al

“I have done this in the past and with pretty good success. Be careful when you do this, especially if the wood has finish on it. If the steam does not work, I have also had to put tiny pinprick holes into the finish to allow the steam to enter. Like I said, be very careful doing this, it takes a bit of patience. Also, be careful not to damage the finish with the steam.” – Allen

Though they skirted the issue of just how likely steaming was to damage finish, the thread then took another turn that may have rendered that discussion moot. – Editor

“Whoa, hold the steam. It's an 18th century piece. Dents happen over the centuries. Why fix it? I suggest that your friend consult with a local reputable restorer. It would not surprise me if the answer was to do nothing to maintain the piece's value. Tampering with the finish might be a mistake.” – Tom

Tom was not the only one of that mindset. – Editor

“I agree with Tom. Your friend may be well counseled to consult with a conservator before doing anything. The piece's value as an antique could be compromised. Why rush into something bad right away? Think first.” – George

Finally, another reader added yet another reason to leave well enough alone. – Editor

“First of all, if it's not yours, don't touch it. I know your intentions may be good, but it's not worth it. Also, something that old isn't going to be perfect. There are times when things do need to be fixed, I doubt this is one of them.” – Chuck

Drawers: from WoodCentral

“I’m building drawers out of five-eighth-inch thick poplar with half-inch finger joints. The drawers will be six and a half, seven and eight inches deep respectively, mounted on side-mounted ball bearing slides. The drawers are approximately 18 inches front to back and 28 inches wide, and the drawer bottoms will be rabbeted into the poplar. What thickness ply would you use for the drawer bottoms?” – Bob

That sounds like a very easy question that might generate a simple, common answer, and at first, it did. – Editor

“Nominal three-eighths of an inch. Since they will be captured on three sides, the slides will give before they will.” – Clint

But things are never that simple at online bulletin boards. – Editor

“For smaller drawers, you can use quarter-inch plywood without a problem. For large dresser drawers or drawers that will see a lot of weight in them, I have often used half-inch thick ply. Of course you could always use solid wood, glued to get the required size, and bevel the edges like the cabinetmakers of old once did.” – Michael

“Your question begs another brief design digression. The usual parameters are at work here, primarily function, aesthetics and cost. In each of these measures, there is no absolute answer; you need to decide what is acceptable vis a vis the customer's expectations. The cost and aesthetics aren't likely to be an issue here, but functionality is. A drawer bottom has to support, with acceptable deflection, some multiple of the amount of weight you expect to put into it. A drawer bottom for your collection of sash weights will need to be a lot heftier than one for your wife's lingerie. So let the projected end use be your guide. Kitchen drawers that will hold heavy stuff like cast-iron frying pans will need to be thicker and stronger than those where you stow your tinfoil and garbage bags. Personally, I would not use quarter inch bottoms, for two reasons: first, they will likely sag over the span that size, even if glued into grooves in the drawer sides; second, and this is just my personal gripe, they just feel flimsy, and they sound flimsy when you tap them. -Three-eighth-inch ply, as Clint suggested, may be perfectly adequate, and it is my choice for most drawer bottoms, but for drawers this size, which may have to handle heavier loads in time, I'd probably go half-inch. If you use any other kind of manmade board, like MCP or MDF, I wouldn't go any less than half-inch.” – Ellis

Of course, what goes into drawers is not always what was meant to go into drawers. – Editor

“If there are grandchildren involved, use half-inch cabinet ply. At least with my grandchildren, there is a good chance that at least one of them will be standing in the drawer at some time before they're eight years old. Not everyone wants to over-engineer. I need to.” – Glen

Still too simple? Don’t worry. A more complex, and possibly better, solution is always at hand. – Editor

“For light stuff like clothes, quarter inch should be fine. If you are worried about what might go into the drawers in the future weight-wise, you could always put a center divider in the drawer bottom with grooves along the long edges to capture the plywood and maybe a stub tenon on each end to fit into the drawer front and back. Just a thought.” – Jim

On Fences and Firewood Finishes

Rip Fence Rumination: from WoodCentral

Sometimes folks wax eloquent on message boards. This rather long entry and its response are good examples of some very worthwhile, albeit lengthy, online reading. – Editor

“In an earlier thread, it was noted that the table saw rip fence is often used for other types of cutting and could accommodate a host of other operations; sacrificial face for rebating with a dado blade, tenoning jigs that use the fence as a guide, a stop for a stop cut, jigs for cutting slots in the corner of a box for feather splines, jigs for cutting angles in end grain, tapering jigs, and so on. It should also allow for attaching feather boards and other stock hold -downs. It can also be used, in conjunction with the miter gauge, as a stop for crosscutting to a specific length or for notching a board at a specific location. Folks keep coming up with new ways to use the fence.

"Now, technically, the table saw fence was intended for rip cuts to cut a board to a specific width and with parallel edges, and technically, a rip cut is with the grain. Crosscuts are better made using the miter gauge, a chop saw or a miter saw. When it comes to sheet goods, though, there is no with or across the grain. You can put any edge against the fence and make a cut parallel to the fence, and because you can, folks cut sheet good panels using the fence.

"So The Fence has become a woodworking equivalent of the Swiss army pocket knife, used to make a host of cuts for which it was not originally intended. My question is ‘Why turn a table saw into a Swiss army pocket knife? Is the reason monetary, a tool budget that won’t permit separate tools and machines for varying operations, or is it a space constraint issue, or is the answer because you can?” – Charlie

“For those who watch Alton Brown’s cooking show, he proposes that the only thing in the kitchen that should not be multitasking is the fire extinguisher. Every professional woodworker I have met gets as much out of his or her tools as the tools can give. I am always amazed at how few tools professionals have. So every tool can be, should be and will become a Swiss army knife. As my skills developed, I followed the same path, so I think there must be something innate about this development. It would naturally follow then that the table saw would get used for all that it could do, unless the shop owner had unlimited space, money and time to invest learning a new tool. I recently took a reproduction furniture class in a professional shop. The table saw was festooned with all the additions and jigs described by Charlie, but the radial arm saw sat buried under stored lumber.” – Bill

Finishing Cherry Firewood: from WoodCentral

There’s been a lot written about finishing cherry, partly because it is such a beautiful and available wood here in the U.S., and partly because it provides more staining and finishing problems than most other woods. That means we are often left confused by the various suggestions that abound online. This short thread is a good example of that. – Editor

“The recent cherry finishing threads have me going around in circles. I'm getting ready to finish some heavily figured curly cherry. The project is a hunt board I've posted about several times. The top, the drawer fronts and the door panels will be curly cherry, and they are the focal points of the piece, so I want them to look good. I need to stain them to add some red as the cherry I'm using is too tan colored for my project. As I understand the various posts, ‘blotchy’ cherry is caused by grain reversal and different densities in the wood, both of which are factors of curly figure.

"So, do I finish without worrying about a blotchy outcome because that's what I'm really aiming for to have the curl show up? Or do I need to be careful with the stain and the finish to keep from ruining an expensive piece of curly cherry, and my project? I haven't completely decided on how I will finish the piece, but my plan was to first use a very light application of dye in alcohol for the color, followed by BLO (boiled linseed oil), sealed with shellac and then finished with a wiping varnish or perhaps some wipe-on poly for the durability since this is a sideboard or serving table. I don't want to screw this up.” – Hank


“Finish Firewood First. That's Michael Dresdner's perennial advice, and I can't stress how important it is, especially when you can't afford to make any mistakes. Cherry can blotch, particularly under oil-based finishes, whether or not it is curly. That's why they sell ‘stain controllers,’ which are mostly oil and solvent, to use before applying oil-based stains to blotch-prone woods like pine and cherry. In your case, I'd probably put a diluted coat of reddish-brown dye stain on the raw wood, followed by several coats of Waterlox. Remember that the cherry will continue to darken in spite of your stain, so the color you see now is not what you're going to see in a year or two. I'd skip the BLO and shellac. If you want to compare outcomes, prepare test finishes on a couple of sample boards.” – Ellis

Metric vs English, Deal or No Deal

Do you Metric?: from Sawmill Creek

“Lately, I've been measuring in centimeters and millimeters because it is significantly easier. I'm quite sick of subtracting sixteenths from quarters. It is a ridiculous system. My work has become much more precise since using the metric side of my tapes and straightedges. I've always been good with Celsius degrees, liters and kilograms, but I've clung my whole life to inches and feet. No longer. I can't stand thinking of ‘one and an eighth plus a bit less than a sixteenth.’ How many of you educated-in-the-U.S.A. woodworkers have ditched inches for centimeters? Is there a down side that I haven't considered?” – Eric

Apparently he was not alone in preferring metric. – Editor

“When I do measure, I'll often use metric. One huge advantage is that instead of one inch I'll think in terms of 24 mm, which means that you can divide things by two, three, four and six very easily.” – Wilbur

“I wasn't educated in the U.S. I'm Canadian. Canada has been metric since the '70s. I switched to the metric system in the workshop when I made some cabinets based on the 32mm system. After that, as you said, it's far easier. I always joke with people that the two great superpowers (U.S.A. and Botswana) are the only remaining countries using the Imperial system. I have to admit that I would have guessed that the U.S. would have adopted the metric system after the Revolutionary War. I'm always amazed that you broke your ties with the British, yet kept their measurement system.” – Rod.

Some like English, for a variety of reasons. – Editor

“I use the fractional method only because after 60 years, it is just too difficult to change. No doubt metric makes more sense and is easier. Were I younger, and had 50 or 60 years ahead of me, I would devote the effort to switch.” – John

“I have considered changing, but I still use a lot of plans for what I do. All of them use the English system, and the effort to convert everything is too overwhelming.” – Ray

“I want to make the switch, but I look around my shop and I have so much stuff that is Imperial that I just never get around to it.” – Larry

Some folks admitted that they use both. – Editor

“Metric if I work alone. Standard if I work with others.” – Les

“ I use them both. I'm lucky enough that I don't have trouble with adding fractions or converting back and forth from metric to standard.” – Jeff

“I want to move to metric, but sometimes it's just hard to get my mind in gear to do it. Interestingly, when I was doing a small project with my daughter two weeks ago, I made her do the measuring and cutting. She chose to use metric, so we did.” – Jim

“I use decimal inches. I get the primary benefit of the metric system, decimals, but without having to translate from English units.” – Jamie

And one chap uses neither. – Editor

“I haven't gone to metric, and it's not likely that I will. Mostly it's because I use very few numeric measurements of any kind because they are too imprecise for good furniture making. Traditional practice uses marking gauges, story sticks, and graphic layout devices (compass and ruler) just to avoid measurements. With modern machinery, making cuts with the same machine settings for all similar parts keeps the parts of equal size and thickness. It's much more important that parts match each other, and not important whether a table is 32 inches or 81 centimeters high, or 31 and a half inches or 80 cm. Dimensional accuracy is important only in production situations, but I'm not doing that. Sure, you can fit mortises and tenons numerically with tolerances of, say, .02 mm, or .001 inch, but if the joint is fitted so that the tenon slides into the mortise only with firm hand pressure, it will give you just as accurate a joint.” – Steve

Deal or no deal?: from WoodCentral

“I saw this post on the local Freecycle Network™. I have no idea how big the tree is or its condition: ‘Offered: Cherry Wood. Snohomish. Our cherry tree fell during the recent rainstorms. We are offering the wood free to anyone who can cut it and haul it away. Cherry wood is good for furniture and for smoking salmon and other meats.’ Since I have neither chainsaw nor truck, I can't really take advantage of the situation. If someone does and gets some good wood for their efforts, maybe he or she can slip me a few board-feet for passing on the tip." – Dan

Is there ever a time that free is not a bargain? Possibly. – Editor

“It might not be what it appears to be. If it is the edible fruit variety of cherry, it is most likely suitable only for turning small objects. The cherry commonly used for furniture is the black cherry, and it normally doesn't provide fruits for human consumption.” – Lee

Well, maybe not completely useless. – Editor

“Agreed, but I've made some small projects out of orchard variety cherry, and it's a fun wood to work with. And it smells good when you burn it by accident on the table saw.” – Rob

“Don't count the domestic cherry out for furniture. I found and had sawn a large domestic cherry some years ago, and it has some really great grain. The grain weaves in and out somewhat like mahogany. It's very different from the wild cherry that is normally harvested here in the mountains of North Carolina. Very hard. Could be worth the time to get the cherry tree.” – Roy

Editor's Note: You'll be able to read more about black cherry, its growth patterns and its woodworking properties in the January/February 2009 Woodworker's Journal print magazine.

Breadboard Ends, Dark Matter

To Cut or Not to Cut; That is the Question: from WoodCentral

“I put the last coat of finish on my dining table. After sanding and polishing, I will have approximately four coats of polyurethane on the top and bottom. My breadboard ends are flush to the tabletop, meaning there is no micro bevel or other such rounding between them to act as a separator. That said, should I make a cut with a razor knife or other blade to slice through the finish at this interface? As we all know, the table will move due to moisture changes, and I am thinking that the finish that passes over this joint could get pulled and maybe fracture in an unfavorable way.” – Erick

We were sure there would be proponents of his suggestion, but were surprised at the responses. – Editor

“That is a good question and one you may have wanted to consider before the finish went on. Since you have two different grain directions, some movement is hard to avoid. I think this type of crack in the finish, if it happens, will follow the line of least resistance and fracture along the joint, which I think is more normal-looking and nicer to the touch than a knife cut.” – Fred

“I built a breakfast room table out of cherry several years ago. I used several coats of a wipe-on polyurethane. I did nothing to the breadboard end joints, and it has never been a problem. Unless your coats are very thick, I wouldn't think it would be a problem. Mine moved immediately upon delivery to the breakfast room from the shop. The shop is heated and cooled, so I assumed the humidity would be similar, but it wasn't!” – Tony

“Even with wood that moves a lot like spruce and fir, I've never had a problem with the finish at the breadboard edges. I agree that a knife cut will be quite noticeable. Leave it alone and you'll be fine.” – John

Dark Matter: from WoodCentral

Not all questions are of equal import, but this one, while merely feeding curiosity, certainly generated fascinating explanations. – Editor

“I'm certainly not a chemist, but I do not understand why when I polish my table saw using Johnson® Paste Wax it turns my cloth black. The saw is clean. I use a soft wire brush on my drill to make sure I get any wood residue off, then I wipe it down with a dry cloth. When applying the wax, it turns my T-shirt applicator black. Probably not a big deal, but I wonder why this happens.” –  Terry

There were some serious answers, of course. – Editor

“The black stuff is metal. Since cast iron is rather soft, there's just enough abrasive in the rag to take off a small amount of the metal, and the wax makes it cling to the rag. Same thing happens when you polish silver or brass.” – Rob

“You are probably seeing nothing more than the organic solvent in the wax dissolving and pulling off normal dirt and grime that accumulates on the surface.” – Jim

“It is the graphite in the cast iron that is released when you abuse the surface with the wire brush.” – Jesper

However, there was a far more entertaining answer offered as well. – Editor

“It is quite simple, really. The cloth absorbs the darkness from the saw's tabletop. You see, the darkness creeps into the saw during the night when all the lights are turned off. During the day, there really isn't enough light to remove all that darkness from the night before. So the darkness collects, and we must periodically wipe that darkness off using a cloth. The cloth absorbs the darkness from the saw's tabletop. The alternative is to leave the lights on all the time, or at least use a small nightlight in the corner of the workshop. Either that, or take the saw outside into the sunshine on a daily basis, which is really only an option in places like San Diego, Miami and Las Vegas, and not in Seattle, Portland, Bangor or Juneau. And since we're on the topic, make sure you dispose of the cloth properly. A cloth or T-shirt that has absorbed darkness can be dangerous. Properly disposing of them is important, yet is as simple as digging a six-foot hole in the ground (four feet if within the perimeter of a cemetery) and burying them with seven cloves of garlic.” –  Mark

Steam and Dry

Steam Cleaning Bits: from Sawmill Creek

“I got my wife a steam cleaner for her jewelry and was wondering if it can it be used for router bits or even blades. Would the steam do any damage to the carbide?” – Chris

One person thought it might. – Editor

“Tungsten carbide has a coefficient of thermal expansion that's about one-third to half that of steel. If you end up heating the bit or blade significantly with the steam, you may cause cracking where the carbide is brazed onto the steel.” – Mike

Others disagreed. – Editor

“When you are cutting wood and you pause the feed, the result is usually a burned spot. This means the bit or blade cutting surfaces have attained a temperature of at least 451 degrees. I don't think steam cleaning will come anywhere near this temperature.” – Bob

“Carbide gets brazed on at about 1,100 - 1,300 [degrees] F. The steel transformation temperature is just above that, so steam probably won't hurt it. Modern tungsten carbide is designed to suffer a huge amount of abuse and keep working.” – Tom 

Some cited secondary issues. – Editor

“I can't imagine steam creating any more heat than a good routing session, but it sure could create a lot more moisture. I bet it'd work well, but you'll have to be sure to dry them out well after.” – Scott

“I don't think the steam would damage the carbide, but it would play the dickens with any bit bearings. I use Arm & Hammer washing soda; it’s biodegradable, quick, and a great all-purpose shop cleaner.” – Bill

“Unless the steam cleaner has a pressure vessel, its output will be 100 C or less, and heat damage won't be an issue. However, since heat accelerates any chemical reaction, and water contains plenty of oxygen, corrosion might be a concern. Dry the bit immediately, re-lube, and inspect. Obviously, you'll want to test the method with something other than your favorite bit.” – Tom

Air-Dried vs. Kiln -ried: from Sawmill Creek

“Is there any difference in working with kiln-dried compared to air-dried?” – Jim

“Some species prone to split will do so to a greater extent when force dried, rather than naturally dried. I primarily mess with old growth longleaf pine, and it's one such species; lots more surface splits if you force dry it, not so much if you let it air dry.” – Neal

“I really like the quality and working properties of the native lumbers I've air-dried myself, but because of the realities of the marketplace, I've used much more kiln-dried than air-dried and the work hasn't suffered for it.” – Frank

If you watch carefully, you will see how a very direct question like this can get skewed into another issue entirely by someone throwing in some extra information. Read the next response, and you will see what we mean. – Editor

“No difference. What you want is correctly dried lumber. The method doesn't matter, frankly. Some species, such as walnut, are better-looking to many of us when air-dried as they typically get steamed when kiln dried to get higher yields, and that removes a lot of the wonderful color variations.” – Jim

What this writer said was that there is no difference if they are done correctly. But instead of stopping there, he added the comment that most kiln-dried walnut also gets steamed, which is separate from the drying process. Nevertheless, what followed was more discussion that appears to be confusing the results of kiln drying with the effects of steaming. – Editor

“I think most have heard that air-dried walnut is superior in terms of color compared to kiln-dried walnut, but I wonder how true it is. I don't think I've ever seen an official study one way or the other.” – Chris

“Easy to test. Buy a piece of kiln- dried steamed walnut and a piece of air-dried walnut. Night and day when it comes to color and interest, at least to my eyes. The steaming makes both the sap and the heart the same brown color, where the air-dried walnut has a tremendous variety of hues throughout from golden through deep purples and hints of green, depending on the particular tree and the conditions from which it grew.” – Jim

Again, he repeats clearly that it is the steaming that causes the loss in color variation, but phrases the answer in a way that implies that all kiln-dried wood is steamed, and no air-dried wood is. Thus, the method of drying becomes linked, at least in some readers’ minds, with the resulting color. This could easily result in a reader simply concluding ‘kiln drying harms the color of walnut.’ It struck us, having just watched a strenuous political campaign, how much this sort of misdirection is used in politics, and we found it fascinating to see it paralleled, albeit unintentionally, in the world of woodworking message boards. – Editor

Color and Temperature

Coloring Spalted Maple: from WoodCentral

“Over the weekend, I did most of the woodworking on a coffee table made almost entirely of spalted sugar maple. Normally, I would pad on some shellac, but I need to darken the wood a bit so that it fits better with the Stickley Mission furniture that's already in the room. I'm leaning toward one of the tinted Watco Danish oils, perhaps cherry, and then shellac, but am worried about hiding the grain and spalting. Any suggestions out there?” – David

“Spalted maple presents some specific challenges that are dependent on several variables. First, if it is punky, which it often is to some degree or another, you have to be careful with penetrating finishes as they will muddy the color. As far as staining, you probably want to stay away from dye stains if you want to preserve the variations in the color and figure, as dyes tend to even everything out. So where does this leave you? You want to match some Craftsman-type furniture in the same room, so you want a color that will be along the same hue lines as the prevalent color of the existing pieces, which is most likely some shade of medium brown, maybe with a bit of reddish tone to it. That's going to be very tricky with any stain, including pigment stains, as you're likely to lose the color variation as I mentioned above. The solution is to prepare a bunch of samples from your cutoffs and try out some possible combinations of stains and finishes to see which will get you closest to your goal. Colored Danish oil might work. It will not obscure the dark veins in the spalted wood, but it will tone all the other colors gently. Personally, I see no need for shellac anywhere in this process. On a coffee table, I'd probably follow up the oil toner coat with a few wiped coats of a wiping varnish or poly, since the tabletop will get no end of hard use over time. You want the abrasion resistance of a hard varnish. Try a few things on scraps and go with the best one.” – Ellis 

“If you can spray it, any solvent lacquer can be tinted with a compatible dye stain. Start light and adjust as you go along.” – Clint

“Good call, Clint. The followup to advice about toners is to be careful that you apply it evenly, as the color added is directly proportional to the thickness of the finish in that area. If your spray technique is good, this is not too difficult.” – Ellis

When it comes to coloring wood, some folks on the message board will tell you how to do it, but inevitably, there will be at least one who tells you not to do it. – Editor

“In my opinion, it would be a real shame to add color to that wood. Mother Nature did her job. Celebrate her work. Back away from the stain and toner. Just back away.” – Dick

Temperature Limits: from WoodCentral 

“How vital is to apply a finish in temperatures above 50 degrees, or even higher? I am now chasing the calendar on a large project that I have moved out to the barn for assembly and finishing. The barn has lighting but no heating, so temperatures will be seldom or at least randomly above 50 degrees for the coming months. I haven't settled on a particular finish.” – Alan

“Fast-drying finishes might be forgiving enough, Alan, but not slow-drying oil or varnish finishes. For those, consider firing up a torpedo or salamander heater for a while and get the room temperature up to room temperature or better. Don't forget to turn off the sources of ignition before you start unleashing solvents into the air.” – Ellis

“I've done it before; just tented the project, heated it up with a couple of ceramic space heaters and made sure the project was warm, and not just the air around it, removed the tent, applied the finish, set the tent up again and kept the heat running on low, making sure it drew air in from outside the tent so no potential combustibles went across the element. Piece of cake!” – Rob

“Hell will freeze over before varnish will harden at 50 degrees. There is a problem with lacquer and shellac that can be exacerbated at low temperature and that is condensation of water vapor on the piece as it cools from solvent evaporation. You had better think of some way to preheat the piece before application and keeping it warm until whatever finish hardens.” – Bill

“Some of the above is not quite true. Some finishes will cure at low temperatures, and some will not. Most oil-based finishes will cure down to about 45 degrees F, but they will do so very slowly; so slowly that it may seem as if they are simply not curing at all, but they will, eventually. Lacquer and shellac will both cure in surprisingly low temperatures, mostly because there is no chemical reaction other than evaporation taking place, but again, more slowly. With all the above, you must be concerned with getting cold enough to hit the dew point, which can cause moisture problems, so it is indeed wiser to heat the wood, the finish and the room to a reasonable degree, and keep an eye on the humidity as well. The real problem finishes are the waterbornes, which will often not form a film at all below a certain temperature. Most need a bare minimum of 55 degrees F, and are way happier if it is above 70. There are, however, some cold weather waterbased paints on the market.” – Michael

“Chemical reaction type finishes require the temperatures stated on the containers. Evaporative solvent finishes like lacquer or shellac do not require any given temperature to cure. I sprayed lacquer in my unheated barn from a spray can this morning with the temperature at 38 degrees. I have brushed on Deft clear wood finish for years at freezing temps with no problems. It merely takes longer for them to dry. Years ago, I even asked Deft if it was OK, and they clearly said that their finish was not temperature-sensitive except for the drying times shown on the container would be longer. I don't think most of the water-based finishes or the polyurethane solvent type finishes will cure at the cooler temps.” – Lee

Reuse, Refinish

Recyle: from WoodCentral

“I use disposable Dispoz-A-Blade® blades on my jointer and on my DeWalt planer. I've got a collection of used blades sitting around, and haven't come up with any use for them. Does anyone re-sharpen theirs or have another way to use them?” – Les

“They make excellent scrapers.” – Sakman

“Maybe you can make a wood handle, mount a section of blade and use it as a glue scraper. I found that a short section of Tersa knife will fit in my Sandvik glue scraper and works quite well.” – Tom

“I will sharpen them occasionally. In fact, I did a pair for my portable planer this week. I am making some small drawers using quartersawn sycamore, some of which had a good bit of grain change. While the blades that were on it were not dull, they were tearing out the grain. I put a face bevel on the knives, and I am happy to report that they did just fine.” – Keith

“I've given them to a blacksmith metalworking friend. He's chopped them and made spokeshave blades out of them. I have tried it myself, but his look pretty neat.” – JL

“Some turners use them to make narrow kerf parting tools.” – Ray

“I've seen people making chisels out of them.” – Hamish


Old and New: from WoodCentral

“I am in the process of refinishing a 1920 time frame quartersawn oak center post kitchen table and chairs. The original finish, I'm pretty sure, was shellac. I want a durable finish, but I do not want to use poly type finishes. Since we will be using this table, I don't think going back with shellac is a good idea. I am leaning toward varnish. I need to know if this is a good idea and what would be the best varnish product to use. I would also like to know if I can spray the varnish. I have both high pressure and HVLP systems.
What do you guys think?” – Herk

“You certainly can spray varnish. I do it all the time. You may need to thin it a bit. The varnish you buy today is but remotely related to a period varnish. The only significant difference between varnish and urethane varnish is that maybe the urethane will be harder and more durable. But why you eschew a urethane varnish for a table is a puzzle to me. For a table you want durability. I finished a table about 30 years ago with urethane, and we and the two kids ate on it every day, and it still looks good. After spraying it, I rubbed it out to a nice subdued sheen. Done properly, one can't tell lacquer from shellac or varnish. If it helps your conscience any, a magnificent pie crust table displayed at the August SAPFM conference was finished with urethane varnish. I didn't hear anyone say that they could tell a difference in appearance from a shellacked table.” – Bill

“As Bill pointed out, most modern varnishes are not the same as traditional ones. They are made by reacting oils into either alkyd or urethane resins, or both. Traditional varnishes were made by cooking oils with natural resins. I said most because you can still find two types of traditional varnishes on the market: true spar varnish and violin varnish, both of which are, at least by some makers, still formulated the old way. However, I agree completely with Bill in that if it is appearance you care about, you won't be able to tell a properly applied modern varnish from an old one, and you will spend less and get more durability to boot.” – Michael

Stitches and Jaws

A Stitch in Time: from WoodCentral

Now and again, an OT (off-topic) thread on a woodworking message board catches our eye for one reason or another. This is a good example; although it is not about woodworking, it covers one of those things most of us grapple with at one time or another. We thought it was a good one to share. – Editor

“A long time ago, I knew the right string to cut and pull to open a bag that is sewn closed with string. Now I guess wrong every time. Can someone tell me or direct me to a description of how it's done? In my Internet search, all I have found is that the string is called a lengthways rip cord, but no instructions. This is one of those things everyone needs to know, right?” – Charles

We think so, and to be honest, we have had trouble with that as well. Fortunately, someone named Butch described how to do it. – Editor

“I open hundreds of these every year. Look at the bag, and you will notice one side is double-stitched and one side is single. On the side with the single stitches, start at the right side and try to find the end of the string and simply pull it rip cord style. If you can't find the end or it is tangled, then use a jack knife to cut the excess string off flush with the bag and simply dig out the first stitch on the right side of the bag and pull that.” – Butch

Vise is Nice: from WoodCentral

“I just bought the Rockler 9" Quick Release Wood Vise on sale. I know that the jaws should be parallel in the horizontal plane, and they are. But shouldn't they also be parallel in the vertical plane? When the jaws are closed, the jaws meet at the top, but there is about a 1/8" gap between them at the bottom. Is this normal or should I return the vise?” – Robert

“It is normal. The jaws are normally set at about a 2 degree inward incline because metal normally bends slightly under clamping pressure, and this will allow the jaws to end up parallel, resulting in fairly even clamping pressure across the face and, ultimately, the workpiece. At least that is how it was explained to me by an old, grizzled, very wise woodworker.” – Stuart

Not everyone agreed. Some felt it was a quality issue. – Editor

“I don't think it’s normal. On my Emmert vise, the jaws meet perfectly parallel in the vertical direction. And, of course, in the horizontal, they are adjustable. There is the possibility that perfection was the norm when my Emmert was made, and now they have an excuse for why imperfection is preferred.” – Robin

“You are talking about a high quality, well-made expensive unit, not a cheap knockoff made in China. Precision comes at a price. I am sure that Robert’s vise will work just fine for woodworking” – Mike

However, others insisted it was indeed by design, and drew contrasts between metal and wood vises. – Editor

“This may be by design. I'd far prefer a bench vise tight at the top rather than loose at the top. Wouldn't be too hard to taper wood facing if needed. From the Highland Hardware catalog concerning Anant's model of the Record quick-action bench vise: ‘Jaws toe in slightly toward the top edge to assure positive clamping under heavy pressure.’ They note that ‘Anant purchased the tooling and casting for Record's discontinued bench vises and, after inspection, we see no substantial difference between Anant vises and those formerly made by Record.’” – John

“I have found that most metalworking vises with metal jaw faces are parallel vertically, but some types of woodworking vises are specifically designed with a slight vertical angle to allow top clamping. The common guitar maker's vise is a good example. It is designed to hit at the top first. I can't vouch for the designer's reason for it, but I can tell you it is incredibly handy to have it that way.” – Michael

Planing Thin and Sanding Holes

Thin Planing: from WoodCentral

“I have some very old three-quarter-inch cedar boards that I'm going to line a blanket chest with. By the time I get them cleaned up, they will be about five-eighths. I want to have them about one-quarter-inch for this. Can I safely use the jointer to get them to one-quarter-inch?” – Clementine

“No. Once you get one face flat and true, you'll need a planer to finish the job. The two-speed ‘lunchbox’ planers out there do a great job and can take your stock down to 1/4-inch thickness with no problem. If you don't have a planer, I think it's the next investment you should think about. Being able to dimension your own stock opens up many new possibilities in woodworking, not to mention the savings of buying rough stock and dressing it yourself to your specific needs.” – David

“I'd be uncomfortable using a jointer to thin down pieces that thin. I'd prefer to use a planer myself. I typically use my jointer to joint larger pieces. If I were to use a jointer, I'd want something like Grippers to keep my hands well away from the jointer blades.” – JL

One person suggested resawing, then cleaning up the sawn face with a jointer. – Editor

“Another idea is to run them through your band saw vertically to halve the boards, then run them on the jointer, with safety gloves and a push stick to keep your fingers out of the way of any blades.” – Joseph

Others disagreed with this. – Editor

“Do not use the jointer unless you have more fingers on your hands than you need. Seriously, the jointer is not the right tool for this. A planer is. The jointer will not make the pieces the same thickness. Find a woodworking friend and borrow one. That is one good reason to belong to a woodworking club. And tell us where you are. Maybe one of us is nearby and can help you out. I would.” –  Carol

“I have to agree with the other replies: a jointer for quarter-inch is not recommended. A planer works well, although may result in some snipe, depending on the model. My personal preference for this task is a drum sander, since I have one. This is very safe and has the benefit of not tearing out the grain. I have cleaned up 1/16-in to 1/8-in. thick boards for a friend to use for Shaker box sides with my drum sander. As another reply stated, try and find a friend. I expect many people would be happy to spend the few minutes it would take to clean up the boards. I live in Eastern Pennsylvania about 90 miles north of Philadelphia if I happen to be close enough for you to drive.” – David

One person suggested another angle entirely. – Editor

“If you're lining your cedar chest with them, then one side won't be visible. After you've resawn them, you could acquire a hand plane to smooth the visible side. It's not hard work, and smells great.” – Bill

This thread then took a very odd turn when the original poster came back in to report that she does indeed own a planer. – Editor

“I do have a Delta planer, but I just hadn't thought about using it, especially the way described here. I guess I'll have to learn to resaw! From what I read here, I will resaw with a 3 tpi half-inch blade and then plane to a quarter inch. Thanks, everyone.” – Clementine

Sanding Holes: from Sawmill Creek

I'm making a board game with a bunch of half-inch shallow round-bottomed holes for marbles, like you'd find in a Chinese checkers game. I found a drill bit specially designed for marble holes. Unfortunately, I get a fair amount of tearout in maple. Maybe I should have just stuck with a router bit. I'm having a horrible time sanding inside those holes. I'm doing it with a thin strip of sandpaper and my fingertip. It takes forever, and it hurts. I tried gluing some Velcro® to the end of a pencil eraser and sticking little pieces of Velcro-backed sandpaper to it, sticking the pencil in a drill press, and sanding that way, but the Velcro contact wasn't strong enough. Any ideas on a better way to do this?” – Porter

“How about rounding the end of a 1/2" dowel, apply a small disc of sandpaper with spray adhesive, and chucking the dowel in a drill? Small discs of sandpaper will clog quickly, but it might be better than doing it by hand.” – Warren

“Dremel makes abrasive buffs in different sizes and grits.” – Glen

“Consider buying some loose grit, and make a hardwood dowel out of a suitably hard wood, like hickory or even a scrap of rosewood, if you have it. Chuck the dowel into your hand drill, spread the loose grit over the surface, and use a drafting brush to sweep the grit into the holes. Then just buzz away with the hand drill and dowel, and turn the board over when done to empty out the grit." – David

“McMaster Carr sells replaceable cap aluminum oxide sanding bits on page 2617 of their catalog.” – Mark

“Buy or make a sanding mop.” – Ken

“A carbide sanding burr might be your best option. If you've a Dremel, you can get bits like those in the McMaster Carr catalogue in a huge variety of shapes and sizes.” – David

Topsy-Turvy

Knaves in Toyland: from WoodNet

“I was just alerted that a new law was enacted August of this year. This law is called The Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act (CPSIA) and effects ALL products manufactured for sale and intended for use by those age 12 and under. All toys must meet strict testing requirements for lead and phthalates. All tested products must also carry a label certifying that the toy meets the CPSIA testing guidelines with a date and batch code. These requirements go into effect in February 2009. More information can be found at The Handmade Toy Alliance website. How that affects us as woodworkers, I am not sure. The Handmade Toy Alliance has more information and is trying to get some exemptions added to the law. I strongly suggest that anyone who makes toys for kids get familiar with this law in order to protect themselves. As it sits right now, this affects everyone no matter how small the operation.” – Michael

“In taking a quick look at the bill language, it seems the mandatory lead testing only applies to imports. That would be quite a lot different than you've characterized it in your thread title and description. I imagine the materials for domestic made-in-the-USA toys are already covered via the Hazardous Materials Act or other similar things specific to children's toys, so it would be redundant.” – Arch

“Here is a copy of the summary of section 102 item B:
‘B. Third-Party Testing of Children's Products
The new legislation imposes an additional third-party testing requirement for all consumer products primarily intended for children 12 years of age or younger. Every manufacturer (including an importer) or private labeler of a children’s product must have its product tested by an accredited independent testing lab and, based on the testing, must issue a certificate that the product meets all applicable CPSC requirements.’
This section continues on, but the key language is in that first paragraph. This law does effect every manufacturer, which includes you or me if our product is intended for children 12 years and younger.” – Michael

“As an FYI, here is an excerpt from a person who specializes in the application of this law. ‘…even if you give it away to charity you are required to comply. Thank the fast food chains that give away free promotional toys for that piece of the law.’ This is a ridiculous law that will seriously harm U.S. toymakers and it will have no effect on the Chinese companies that caused the problem.” – Bill

Editor's Note: For further information on this law and its affects on woodworkers, please read last issue's Tool Preview department, which contains an interview with the Handmade Toy Alliance. Dan Marshall of the organization was quoted in the article, "Don't think you're exempt just because you're small. Nobody is exempt in the current law."

Upside-down: from WoodCentral

“I  read somewhere that paint cans stored upside-down keep longer. I tried it with a can of satin poly, but I'm not convinced. Had to scrape the solids off the lid and try to get the poly remixed well. The results weren't good. Anybody use this technique?” – Pat

“I tried it with polyurethane. I got the skin that normally occurs, but this time the skin was under the poly instead of on top. That's probably better than the other way around, but I still had to strain it through a piece of window screen. Tried it another time with some leftover paint from spraying a car. Had it upside-down on a shelf in my garage and, after some time there, noticed a stalactite of dried paint hanging from the shelf. I think the expansion and contraction of the air in the can because of the temperature changes in the (unheated) garage just pumped the paint past the lid seal. The flow was slow enough that the escaping paint dried as it flowed over the edge of the shelf.” – Gene 

“This advice is usually given to keep foods in cardboard and plastic containers fresher longer in refrigerators. It works because the food blocks the air from coming into the container and no skin or any other chemical reaction occurs at the food air interface. In my house we have been using this technique for years in our refrigerator, and it really works there. I had tried it with some paint in a large plastic jar, but the lid wasn't that tight and the paint leaked out, so I never tried it again with paint.” – Al

“There's a way to prevent or at least minimize the skin formation. Before closing up the can, set one side of the lid into the groove at the edge and hold the lid open about an inch. Take a deep breath and exhale into the can and quick close it up and tap it firmly in place. The exhaled carbon dioxide will help prevent that dreaded skin. I work with paints, stains and varnishes every single day, and the only time I have skin formation on any paint or varnish is when the can has been unused for months at a time.” –  Karen

We’re surprised no one on this thread mentioned it, but rather than huffing into cans of finish, you can buy oxygen-free air in aerosol cans. The product is called BlOxygen, and it works beautifully to prevent such skinning by replacing all the oxygen laden air in the can with a combination of other inert gasses, primarily nitrogen and argon. – Editor

“Try collapsible plastic bottles that scrunch down to the level of the liquid in them. That way there is a lot less air to cause degradation of any kind.” –Grant

“I realized a long time ago that by buying the smallest can available, I usually minimized skin-over and subsequent wasted product. Should I have a little left over, I can toss it rather than worry about storage and skin-over. Nothing beats a fresh product, and after all the time spent making something to be proud about, applying old poly seems crazy to me.” – George

Doweling and Climbing

Dowel Woes: from WoodCentral

"I'm joining two pine boards together at right angles using a butt joint reinforced with dowels. The joint is over six feet long. I'm drilling the dowels 11 inches apart. I start on one end, drill a hole, move the board 11 inches by inserting a dowel in the hole and pushing the dowel up against a stop. Then I drill another hole, put a dowel in it, re-register, until the end of the board. I do that on both boards I'm joining. When I finish and go to dry fit the two boards together, the holes on the opposite end of the board are at least a quarter inch off. As I re-register and re-drill, the registering error adds up. I'd like to figure out how to eliminate the registering error. I know I could use a biscuit joiner or a spline instead of dowels, but right now dowels are what I'm set up to do and I'd like to get to the bottom of this." – Nathan

Several layout suggestions were offered, and at least two people suggested making a full-length doweling jig. – Editor

"Now I remember why I stopped using dowels. First, if you are joining the boards edge to edge, you don't need dowels or biscuits at all, just use glue like Titebond®. Drill a pattern piece that is the same length as the boards and drill all the holes in it. Then register it on each piece you wish to dowel and drill through the holes in it. That way, even if the holes are somewhat random, they will be the same in each piece. Be careful to register it off the same end and edge of the piece you wish to line up. Or put the two boards side by side, edges up, and use a knife or sharp pencil to draw a line across both where the dowels should be. Then center the marks on each board and drill them. The knife cut works for this because the bit may center up on it." – Barry

"For doweling accuracy, I've never found a better method than this one: Make a hardwood strip about an inch and a half square the full length of the joint you are trying to dowel together. Drill holes at whatever spacing you want. Attach tabs to the sides, ends or edges of your strip to index on whatever edges of the work pieces are most logical. Hold or clamp the strip to each piece in turn and drill your holes. You can't go wrong." – Ellis

Of course, there is a simple tool for positioning one hole relative to an already drilled one. This writer calls them dowel points, but most catalogs in the U.S. call them dowel centers. – Editor

"I use dowel points. They work great. They are little brass things that go into the hole in one side of the board. Join the other board to it and the points that protrude from the brass make their point on the adjoining board. That's where you drill your adjoining dowel hole." – Roberts


Climb Cutting: from WoodCentral

"I repeatedly see the practice of climb cutting described in wood magazines and even recommended as a way to reduce tearout while doing a router run with a handheld router when you run into a interlocked or reversed grain. Having done this for many years, I know how dangerous it could be for a first attempt, when a novice really doesn't realize how much power the router can exert trying to leap out of your grasp, often ruining the wood profile cut and maybe taking a chunk out of your front end. Depending on the size of the router bit and the depth of cut, it is a practice that requires all of your attention and focus and can still occasionally backfire on you. So I would say from my point of view, if you climb cut, be very careful." – Fred

Of course, all tools require attention and care, but this technique is indeed more risky than some, and many agreed with Fred. – Editor

"Climb cutting is something that is hard to describe in words, yet every magazine and instructor seems to recommend it as an option for routing where the grain direction is unfavorable. I've always shied away from recommending climb cutting simply because of the touchy-feely aspect that is so critical to success and safely. Routers are precision instruments. Most of the time, we achieve our desired results by holding our routers and/or our workpieces rigidly in relation to each other. Climb cutting goes against our natural instinct. To do it successfully, you have to carefully test how much force the bit is going to be exerting as it attempts to fling your work piece in the direction of rotation. Even then, you need to constantly be aware and able to moderate your pressure to allow the router to climb without digging in and ruining your whole day. Yet, you need to be ready to control any tendency of the router to run away. I'd welcome more discussion on this." – Ellis

"I agree that magazine recommendations for the hobby woodworker are ill-advised. It requires lots of feel and light bites. My first climb cut was on a router table and the piece of white oak shot across the shop and broke a panel on the garage door. I've never forgotten it." – Chris

"I'd second that. Usually you're better off sneaking up on the final profile and taking the last cut to remove just a tiny amount of wood. Good sharp bits, the right speed and proper wood are generally better than climb cutting. The few times I've had to do it, I prefer to have the router in the table and good control over the wood using guides, push pads and so on. Another rule of thumb here - just because it's in a magazine doesn't mean it's a good idea." – Stephen

While some would rather avoid it, this writer insisted it is a valuable skill. – Editor

"I can't imagine doing woodwork without it. I think it is easier to use a powerful router with a larger bit for climb cutting than a underpowered motor with a small bit. When the motor slows down, the bit can't take a proper size bite. When this happens, the user's tendency is to let up or relax, and the router takes off. It is easier to choke a small router down to that level than one with enough power to just keep cutting. You just have to know that the bit is turning clockwise as you look down on it when hand held, so it will want to go counter-clockwise whenever in contact with the work. Learning proper holding positions and stance are important, and knowing what you can do, and what you should not even try is very important. If you don't know your limitations, and what to expect, it may make it dangerous for you, but that doesn't mean that it is dangerous for everyone." – Keith

He makes a good point. What is safe for someone with one level of experience is not necessarily safe for you. Make sure you know the risks, challenges and safety precautions before you attempt any new task, and don’t be afraid to stop and learn from someone first. – Editor